Xpremium: Power tap for accessories

[Richard B.]

Have yet to see a thread for doing this on an Xpremium; adding an 12V converter and 12v accessory bus for a phone charger, led lights, radio, etc. Does anyone have a lead on the battery connector? The auxiliary battery connector does not look like an XT60, Dean's, nor an Anderson, instead it looks like a larger version of the type of 2-pin Julet used for the other widgets like headlight, etc. (RAD might use the same type on some packs). Does anyone know where the battery isolater sits? I'm assuming above the mid-drive. It'd be cool to tap the circuit breaker/switch/converter there rather than the aux battery...

 

[Johny Rocket]

As a retired Electronics Tech I can't help myself but to fiddle with things in my 3 ebikes. The biggest hassle is all the different power connectors. If only there was a universal easy to use connector that would accept a mixed range of different gauge and styles wire, handle up to 30 amps/100v, didn't require soldering, and made a secure connection that won't pull apart.
These fit the bill, rated for up to 32 amps & up to 400v nominal. UL listed for 20 amps 300v. WAGO 221-2401 Inline Splicing Wire Connector Pack | 221 Series Lever Nuts Assortment with Case | Includes (20x) 221-2401 https://a.co/d/ckpR95T

 

[Richard B.]

I've used WAGO's quite a bit, great for protected places, but not water/dust proof. In particular, the dust where we go is alkali and when it gets moist it eats copper like nobody's business, then there's the beach so you have salt to deal with which is nearly as bad.

What I'm hoping to do is, at worst tap into the aux battery at the aforementioned 2-pin 'power Julet' (if I can find a M/F pair), and at best, tap at a similar connection point after the battery isolator (I have yet to drop the motor to see what's up there). The plan would be pull the isolator out connection, plug my Y-connection into that, PTC, then switch to the 48v to 12v converter which then runs to a Qi phone holder/charger on the handlebars, some fancy running lights, an ATV style LED whip, a 2-way radio, etc.

Worst case, I cut the harness, which I can totally do, but rather keep it as OEM as possible, it just makes service so much easier especially in the case of other harness-related issues.

 

[Johny Rocket]

I'm at the beach (FL Gulf) too. Haven't had any issues with wago connections corroding as old as three years ago. I would have to admit when living in SD California it seemed like I had trouble with corrosion. It's counterintuitive since one would think a drier climate would have less. Maybe when everything stays damp vs back and forth. I was using waterproof heat shrink over them but got tired of cutting it off when I wanted to change something. Good luck with your project!

 

[Richard B.]

Solder + waterproof shrink will be my fallback if I can't get OEM-compatible connectors, totally not afraid of getting my hands dirty so to speak, but reluctant cutting into a brand new bike's harness when we've not done the warranty shakedown, ya'know...

Assuming someone here does not pop off with a, "yeah, I just done that, here's what I did..." post, I will document and post now whut I gone and dun