Which chain is on the Vado 5.0?

Sorry to be a PIA.
All the references on these forums refer to a 126 link chain on the Vado 5.0.
I am attaching the photo of the OLD chain and laid out on a piece of cardboard with identifying number next to each RIVET. EACH RIVET (roller?) is from what I count the "number" of "links (roller)". If I reference a "link" as a complete item with 2 sides I do not get 126 or even 138 for the new CN-E8000-11 chain.
I get 124 'rivets' if I count the 1st hole as '0', 125 if I count it as '1'.
So the references about the chain being 126 'links' are confusing (to me) if it is 124 or 125 'rivets'/ or (rollers).

Reference:
bicycles.stackexchange.com

How do you count the number of links in a chain?

I thought this was a simple question but apparently there is some confusion - and it's good to have a basic question to refer people to. How many "links" are in these short bits of chain: Image ...
bicycles.stackexchange.com bicycles.stackexchange.com

OLD Bike Chain Links.jpg
 
So, educating myself, and want to share, I think the most confusing part was where to cut the new chain. Nowhere did it say anywhere to do this (until I stumbled upon it):
"If you're using a master link chain, insert the master link so your measurement is accurate".
Doing THAT, now I know where to cut the new chain. If I did not, the chain would be incorrect (by just laying the old chain next to the new chain and cutting it without the master link).
The old/original chain had a 'pin'/'rivet', the new chain is using the master link connector.
To ME, that's why it was misunderstood as to where to cut the new chain.
The very last thing I wish to do is have a new chain patched together with extra links because I cut it too short (maybe that's OK, but I'd rather not, as I really don't see it as a professional, long term solution).
 

Attachments

  • Measure-a-Bike-Chain-Step-2.jpg
    Measure-a-Bike-Chain-Step-2.jpg
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How did you "click in" the master link Guru? Do you own special chain pliers? Or?
 
I purchased the pliers. On a previous bike, I did hold the wheel, push the pedals method.
With all the extra Trump/Biden (forthcoming?) $$, I figured what the heck, might as well splurge :)
 
Hi,
Here I am getting involved, I am the owner of Vado 6.0 2019 with 3,500 km covered. my chain broke last night and before that he knew how to jump at the lowest speed. I decided to change all the circuits. I bought it today;
Chain Shimano CN-HG601 11S (138 links) 20 €, the old one had 132 links,
Rear-wheel drive Shimano CS-M7000 11 11-42 (75 €)
I don't know what to buy a medium drive? The specifications state 48T, 104 BCD w / chainguard. Can some link from the net help me.
THX
 
Buy from this store:
www.nubuk-bikes.de

CHR PRAXIS MY17 VADO 48T, CHAINRING,104,WAVE | Nubuk Bikes

CHR PRAXIS MY17 VADO 48T, CHAINRING,104,WAVE bei Nubuk Bikes kaufen ★★★★★ ✓ Bike Leasing ✓ Finanzierung ✓ Profi-Beratung ✓ Riesige Auswahl
www.nubuk-bikes.de www.nubuk-bikes.de

It is the only exact replacement and the only store where I could buy the part. I you cannot buy, ask me, I will suggest an alternative for you.
Note: Don't lose any of the original chainring screws! Don't damage them with excessive torque when tightening. Use a threadlocker fluid (Loctite Blue or an equivalent).
 
Igor M said:
Hi,
Here I am getting involved, I am the owner of Vado 6.0 2019 with 3,500 km covered. my chain broke last night and before that he knew how to jump at the lowest speed. I decided to change all the circuits. I bought it today;
Chain Shimano CN-HG601 11S (138 links) 20 €, the old one had 132 links,
Rear-wheel drive Shimano CS-M7000 11 11-42 (75 €)
I don't know what to buy a medium drive? The specifications state 48T, 104 BCD w / chainguard. Can some link from the net help me.
THX
Click to expand...
Others have reported drive train issues when they get over 2,000 miles on their chains. Out of habit, I change my chains each Spring. With a couple of bikes this keeps me well under 2,000 miles per bike. YRMV.
 
Thank you all, now I'm going to check who is sending to BiH. Until then, I will have to drive on the current one, I hope nothing happens.
 
91 / 5000

​

Ordered BEST BIKE 50 € + post 13,5 € = 63 €.
I follow to see how long it takes to deliver.
 
Igor M said:
91 / 5000

​

Ordered BEST BIKE 50 € + post 13,5 € = 63 €.
I follow to see how long it takes to deliver.
Click to expand...
Here I am again.
Delivery was in two weeks. In the meantime, I changed the chain and rear cassette, and everything works flawlessly.
I'm thinking of not touching this medium drive now, to wait to drive some 1,5k km and then replace it together with a new chain.
What do you think?
 
Last edited:
Hi all! Old thread revisited! :)

Now, I'm paranoiac about chain wear. Occasionally checking the distance between pins of 10 consecutive chain links with a digital calliper (as old good @TS25 has taught me) :) Surprise, surprise! Yellow card received from the referee, or 128 mm mark exceeded on my Vado! (For posterity: It happened at 6144 km mark on the odometer).

Hand washed Grizzle on my home's terrace (which is rather difficult in the wintertime) and then went with the chores that I actually hate, as I am not at least inclined to be a bike mechanic... Used Shimano Ultegra XT CN-HG701 (11-speed, 138 links) chain. Expensive thing... But at least could be bought in these hard times. The thing came with a pin (not a master-link), so I had to be very careful not to screw things up (as I'm apt to).

Before doing anything, I unlocked the Shadow clutch in the derailleur.

First of all, I started with 132 chain links (that was the last figure I counted when my Vado was returned from an LBS last May). First, I removed the rear wheel (and washed it under bathroom shower). Then, routed the chain. Oh my! I had to constantly return to a YT tutorial since I could not understand how the thing should really be done! I even sent a photo to my brother Jacek, and he could correct my ways :D Of course, the chain side with engravings facing the drive side and setting the chain on the proper teeth of the Wide-Narrow chainring. Then I replaced the wheel and started experimenting. Upon connecting chain ends, I was temporarily fastening them with a small Allen key.
  • 132 links? No way! The bottom part of the chain was loose at the 11th gear. Removed two links, same. Two links more removed...
  • 128 links was applied by a local bike mechanic last Autumn. No good. The bottom part of the chain was still loose. Two more links removed...
  • 126 links appeared to be the proper chain length. The bottom part of the chain got properly tensioned at the smallest cassette cog, and the derailleur was not overly stretched in the largest cog.
Then... extremely scared I used the chain tool to permanently connect the chain with the provided (and greased) pin. I was doing that extremely carefully and slowly (I can screw up even that!) Success! (And the Shadow clutch on).

Now, the drivetrain works silently and reliably in any gear. The most important: The strange noise I heard with the old chain in the granny gear has been eliminated!

1615409872406.png

Now, I can sleep well :)

By the way, it turned out I was able to install the new chainring wrongly last Autumn! The diagram on the ring is on the drive side (and it should face the frame). So what? The chainring has already worn in and I won't replace it, as no ill effects can be observed.

This post is dedicated to both @TS25 and @Sierratim :)
 
Last edited:
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