Which chain is on the Vado 5.0?

Well, almost 2300 miles, dipped the new chain in the SpeedWax, ready for installation.
Being it's gonna be a cold next few days with bad weather, I'm considering additional service items for the Vado 5.0.
I have zero issues, 100% satisfied, yet want to be ready for the next 2-4k miles this coming year, so reading bits here and there considering the chainring and possible cassette replacement also.
Any shortcuts to Amazon or other supplier to get those OEM parts?
 
GuruUno said:
Well, almost 2300 miles, dipped the new chain in the SpeedWax, ready for installation.
Being it's gonna be a cold next few days with bad weather, I'm considering additional service items for the Vado 5.0.
I have zero issues, 100% satisfied, yet want to be ready for the next 2-4k miles this coming year, so reading bits here and there considering the chainring and possible cassette replacement also.
Any shortcuts to Amazon or other supplier to get those OEM parts?
Click to expand...

I was wondering how your chain life and rewaxing intervals have been with the speedWax? Or is this the first time you are going to do it?
 
Johnny said:
I was wondering how your chain life and rewaxing intervals have been with the speedWax? Or is this the first time you are going to do it?
Click to expand...
1st time....as I was delaying it because I had zero need, feeling or issues to make it necessary, so now that the weather is turning bad for a week, figured it might be time to do it.
 
Back to chain-sizing...
If you've dumped your old chain (so you have nothing to compare to the new one) then there are a few ways of getting the correct length. Here are three:
www.globalcyclingnetwork.com

How To Calculate The Correct Chain Length | Road Bike Maintenance

GCN - The Global Cycling Network brings you compelling daily content including expert bike tutorials, techniques, training, behind the scenes event coverage, humour and entertainment.
www.globalcyclingnetwork.com www.globalcyclingnetwork.com

I used Method 1 on my analogue road bike with no problems.
As previously mentioned, you will need a chain splitter tool whatever you choose to do.
 
Skittler said:
Back to chain-sizing...
If you've dumped your old chain (so you have nothing to compare to the new one) then there are a few ways of getting the correct length. Here are three:
www.globalcyclingnetwork.com

How To Calculate The Correct Chain Length | Road Bike Maintenance

GCN - The Global Cycling Network brings you compelling daily content including expert bike tutorials, techniques, training, behind the scenes event coverage, humour and entertainment.
www.globalcyclingnetwork.com www.globalcyclingnetwork.com

I used Method 1 on my analogue road bike with no problems.
As previously mentioned, you will need a chain splitter tool whatever you choose to do.
Click to expand...
I still have the old chain, so that's a good thing, right?
Looking for the chainring, I see limited availability in US for $66 or so, but what bolts/who has 'em? Or reuse the original ones?
Considering the possibility of replacing the cassette (upon inspection), advantages/disadvantages to different models, gearing vs. OEM direct replacement? (Shimano SLX 11-42)
Again, figuring I got the week to do this, and with no immediate issues or problems, consider my potential additional items as a proactive measure as I've got my sleeves rolled up.
I've spent the weekend reading the forums here and getting some helpful information as to possible different sizes of chainrings, bash guard sizes, cassette gearing, etc., but in reality, if I'm 99% happy with the way it is OOB (out of the box), I'm not ready to experiment....yet, with different sizes of parts to gain a bit of, well that's the part that is hard to describe or anticipate.
 
Thanks for the reply Stefan, sorry for the delay. It's been havoc scheduling the Covid Vaccine and I finally got it today (yes, I am an old fart approaching 70). That story is full of drama and saved for another forum.
I did not do anything yet (count the links) other than do my last ride for a few weeks maybe. The next week or so wind chills below zero and snow are in the forecast giving me a reason to bring the bike down the stairs and begin my service.
So, upon your recommendation a while back, I got the Shimano CN-E8000-11 (138 links to have enough if needed) chain and last weekend dipped in the Speedwax in preparation for pulling it off and swapping it out. However, I did take some time to review a lot of previous discussions on these forums to kind of get up to speed with what I need to know and decided to order a bunch of stuff to do with the chain.
I ordered a new Shimano SLX M-7000 11-42t cassette, a new set of Shimano J03A brake pads, a new 48-T OEM chainring plus also 2 new Electrak 2.0 Armadillo Reflect tires (as you suggest they are the ones of choice). Do you have a preference for the choice of tubes? Did you use the original chainring bolts or use new ones? If new, I can't seem to find them anywhere, got a link?
I figure what the heck, why not, I got 2300 mile with no problems, might as well do it to be ready for this forthcoming season to possibly do a lot more riding.
(by the way, any reason to look for replacement cogs for the original cassette (as a spare) for the one or 2 that may show some wear or just do it all???)
As stated before, thanks for all of your help in these forums, your a plethora of information.
BTW, the family name back a few generations was Kwiatkowski......
 
GuruUno said:
Thanks for the reply Stefan, sorry for the delay. It's been havoc scheduling the Covid Vaccine and I finally got it today (yes, I am an old fart approaching 70). That story is full of drama and saved for another forum.
I did not do anything yet (count the links) other than do my last ride for a few weeks maybe. The next week or so wind chills below zero and snow are in the forecast giving me a reason to bring the bike down the stairs and begin my service.
So, upon your recommendation a while back, I got the Shimano CN-E8000-11 (138 links to have enough if needed) chain and last weekend dipped in the Speedwax in preparation for pulling it off and swapping it out. However, I did take some time to review a lot of previous discussions on these forums to kind of get up to speed with what I need to know and decided to order a bunch of stuff to do with the chain.
I ordered a new Shimano SLX M-7000 11-42t cassette, a new set of Shimano J03A brake pads, a new 48-T OEM chainring plus also 2 new Electrak 2.0 Armadillo Reflect tires (as you suggest they are the ones of choice). Do you have a preference for the choice of tubes? Did you use the original chainring bolts or use new ones? If new, I can't seem to find them anywhere, got a link?
I figure what the heck, why not, I got 2300 mile with no problems, might as well do it to be ready for this forthcoming season to possibly do a lot more riding.
(by the way, any reason to look for replacement cogs for the original cassette (as a spare) for the one or 2 that may show some wear or just do it all???)
As stated before, thanks for all of your help in these forums, your a plethora of information.
BTW, the family name back a few generations was Kwiatkowski......
Click to expand...
I'm happy to hear you got the vaccine! I'm almost 60 and will have to wait for a couple of months...

Regarding the tubes, your existing Specialized ones are fine: no need to replace them.
Regarding the original chainring bolts: yes, I re-used them. Be careful not to overtighten them (8 Nm will do) and use Loctite Blue to secure them.
Regarding the choice of Electraks 2.0: A smart choice indeed.
1611874605535.png

Mine at the winter storage, after more than 3000 miles ridden on them. No sign of tread wear. Very low rolling resistance; and durable.

If you intend to replace the whole cassette, it is OK. I had the luck to: a. Get two smallest replacement cogs; b. Having my brother who owns necessary tools.

Regarding your family roots: Very interesting. As you might know, the family name means "Flower-ski". Very popular family name in Poland. It is in the first twenty of the most popular names. About 85,000 of Kwiatkowski live in Poland.
 
Initially, upon delivery, it was 86.22 in. SHOULD be 89.29 in.
LBS reprogrammed.
But, I can say that Mission Control and BLeVO always indicate via their method of determining distance different numbers.
That is to say, my BleVO will say "1 mile", yet my apple watch will say .97 mi, etc.
After say a 15.5-mile ride, it might be 15.22
I'm gonna figure it out to be 100% accurate someday :(
 
Stefan Mikes said:
How many links are there in your old chain, Guru?
Click to expand...
I have counted the links!
Am I counting how many rivets or complete links, regardless of the open ends now that I had to punch out the pin with the removal tool and I lay the old side by side to the new chain, I'm unsure as to which rivet to pop out to connect the quick disconnect link?
I know it sounds stupid, but it is confusing. (to me).
Viewing the self-help video at
At 3:00 min he explains it.
About 10 seconds later he tells you to insert the master link to the open end to get a true side by side comparison.
Both ends of my new chain are like the photo I show in the wire.
Still, a bit confused about where to break the new chain to install the master link.
Both ends are the same on the new chain, so where do I break it to use the master link?
IMG_0859.jpeg
 
GuruUno said:
I have counted the links!
Am I counting how many rivets or complete links, regardless of the open ends now that I had to punch out the pin with the removal tool and I lay the old side by side to the new chain, I'm unsure as to which rivet to pop out to connect the quick disconnect link?
...
Still, a bit confused about where to break the new chain to install the master link.
Both ends are the same on the new chain, so where do I break it to use the master link?
Click to expand...
You're counting complete chain links, not the rivets.

As the master link is an outer link, you need your new chain to end with an inner link at both ends. So you could fix your master link in to join the ends.
So cutting your new chain to the desired length you should drive out a chain rivet in the new chain which leaves the new chain ending with an inner chain link at that chain end, too.

GuruUno said:
Looking for the chainring, I see limited availability in US for $66 or so, but what bolts/who has 'em? Or reuse the original ones?
Click to expand...
You can reuse the chainring bolts using Loctite blue.
GuruUno said:
by the way, any reason to look for replacement cogs for the original cassette (as a spare) for the one or 2 that may show some wear or just do it all.
Click to expand...
Depends whether you've been shifting smoothly and avoiding using the two smallest cogs by using a higher cadence, or not.
These smallest cogs shouldn't be used frequently, or they quit. So check them for wear (do they start looking like "shark teeth") and compare their wear with the other cogs. Then you'll come to a conclusion.
A cassette regularly lasts 2-3 chain lives. If treated properly.
 
Last edited:
OK, bike is all together with the exception of the chain which I'll do on Tuesday. We've had 20" of snow, so pre-occupied with that. Tires are delayed due to snow, so I'm not going anywhere for a week anyway.
Rehashing the chain size: If the old chain is 126 links and was connected with a pin, I break the pin to lay it out. I match the new chain to the same size and deduct 1 link to make it 125 for the quick disconnect link which will then make it 126, right? Just don't wast to waste a $75 chain.
I have a torque wrench and socket to torque the lock ring on the cassette, 40nm, correct? If I did not have the torque wrench, it would be as tight as I can make it after engagement of the locking ring withut overtightening it, right?
(again, excuse my questions, but the last thing I want to do is something incorrect, as I've been told on these forums to suck it up and learn how to do these things on my own, so hence my being a PIA.
 
GuruUno said:
OEM tires on the bike are Specialized Trigger Sport, 28" x 1.85" (700 x 47c) (47-622)
Click to expand...
Okay thanks. I missed these post. I had the same tires. However, my wheel size was set to 2255 mm or 88.7 in. That's weird. That wheel size in not uniform across all our 5.0 Turbo Vados, especially with the same rims/tires. BLEvo is reading my Wheel size now as 2300 mm or 90.6 in. since I changed to Electraks 2.0 700 ×51c (51-622).
 
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