Wheels

[TimothyJ]

I have a 1998 Giant Iguana that I have converted into an Ebike.
It has a Bafang HD 1000 watt motor.
I’m having problems with the rear wheel bearings loosening up almost after every ride. I want to replace it but have been told it’s the old style freewheel type and I can’t replace it with the newer wheels? Why not?

 

[Dono Be]

This will help....the freewheel can be replaced but only with the same number of cogs (7speed) it also can be totally replaced with a new wheel or rebuilt but you will need a new chain because yours will be to worn to mate up with new cogs of the wheel. The front chain ring may also be worn out. If you go with a new drive train...(Front chainrings, chain, and wheels...go with a cassette free hub body

 

[Sierratim]

I have a 1998 Giant Iguana that I have converted into an Ebike.
It has a Bafang HD 1000 watt motor.
I’m having problems with the rear wheel bearings loosening up almost after every ride. I want to replace it but have been told it’s the old style freewheel type and I can’t replace it with the newer wheels? Why not?

It sounds like your issue isn't related to the freewheel specifically but to the axle assembly in the rear hub. I'm guessing that at least one axle cone nut and its locknut aren't getting jammed together tight enough to prevent loosening of the cone nut and thus the bearings. Once the cone nut is lightly tightened to get the correct 'play' with the bearings a cone wrench is used to keep the cone nut from rotating while the accompanying lock nut is tightened with an open-end wrench to be very tight against the cone nut. This will lock the cone nut in place.

This sketch from a local Bicycle Kitchen class I helped at for several years examines the 'anatomy' of a freewheel hub. If the non-drive side bearings (right side in the sketch) are loosening they can be worked on without removing the freewheel. Otherwise, it's most likely that you'll need to remove the freewheel to correctly adjust the cone nut and then tighten the lock nut against the cone nut to lock it into place. Either way, the lock nut needs to be loosened before adjusting the cone nut and then retightened to jam against the cone nut.

Hope this helps.

 

[TimothyJ]

Thanks for your help. If I replaced the wheel what is a good replacement? My wheel is a 26 inch 1.50
It’s also a six speed. Can I replace the wheel with a cassette six speed and have the shifters still sync properly? Can you recommend a brand,
hopefully sold on Amazon as the bike shops are not exactly up to speed with Corona virus shutting their doors? I tried talking with them but Ebikes were not their specialty and it seemed like they didn’t want to go down that path...maybe liability issues?
Thanks so much for the help!

 

[Gionnirocket]

If you want to replace the wheel with a new one and similar 6 speed cassette, it's much easier and cheaper to fix the problem as Sierratim explains.
I'm using the BBS02B with an older 7sp Freewheel without issue..
Full disclosure.. I'm not a very aggressive rider and use the motor to supplement me pedaling

 

[TimothyJ]

I have read the reply by sierratim and understand it but does it fix the ongoing problem of having to tighten it up? I know it must be the torque of the motor that is causing the problem. I have had the bike modified for a little over a year and have had the wheel bearings tightened professionally at least 4 times. I only bring it to the shop when the bike gets squirrelly and not safe to ride. Would love to have a better system that will not allow that to happen.
The bike is a work in progress but overall it’s been very reliable and wonderful to ride.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I have read the reply by sierratim and understand it but does it fix the ongoing problem of having to tighten it up? I know it must be the torque of the motor that is causing the problem. I have had the bike modified for a little over a year and have had the wheel bearings tightened professionally at least 4 times. I only bring it to the shop when the bike gets squirrelly and not safe to ride. Would love to have a better system that will not allow that to happen.
The bike is a work in progress but overall it’s been very reliable and wonderful to ride.

Looks like you're getting a new set of wheels.
There shouldn't be a problem with setting the derailleur up properly.
Since you deal with a local bike shop... Why not have them do the change.

 

[TimothyJ]

The local bike shop seems to have something against working on my bike. They sold me a new double walled front wheel but has little interest in replacing the rear. They even told me my bike was not meant to last this long? I really feel that they don’t want to get involved with a work in progress machine. All I want to know is what kind of wheel would be a big improvement to what I have now and also something in which I don’t need to make ongoing adjustments.
It’s a great bike but a bit long in the tooth.

 

[ruffruff]

What if you took the wheel/tire money and put it towards a newer bike? Move the motor over?
Disc brakes alone might be worth the upgrade.

 

[J.R.]

The local bike shop seems to have something against working on my bike. They sold me a new double walled front wheel but has little interest in replacing the rear. They even told me my bike was not meant to last this long? I really feel that they don’t want to get involved with a work in progress machine. All I want to know is what kind of wheel would be a big improvement to what I have now and also something in which I don’t need to make ongoing adjustments.
It’s a great bike but a bit long in the tooth.View attachment 63149

It doesn't surprise me your LBS doesn't want to supply and install a rear wheel for a 1000 watt ebike. Too much liability. They should've been honest with you though.

You'll have some challenges finding a high spec wheel/freehub/cassette for a six speed these days. You should be able to find a modest one (cheap, low spec). There's just not much demand for 5,6,7 speed bikes. If you went with a 8,9,10 speed, your options are huge. You'll have to check the frame dropouts to be sure whatever you buy will fit. And you'll have to upgrade the derailleur, cable and shifter.

You're running into the typical challenges of rehabbing an older bike. Add to that, when this bike was made no one dreamed of it handling 1000 watts. A human can't generate that. I can imagine down the road you wanting better disc brakes and other upgrades. The bike has it's limitations.

 

[TimothyJ]

I did upgrade from cantilever to V mount brakes.
Night and day difference. I really don’t think I need anything else as the bike stops as fast as it can. I have a good seat but maybe a thud buster would be welcome.
Thanks for your help.

 

[harryS]

Odd. I have a BBS02 spinning the wheel on a 2005 DIamondback and can't see how the bearings would get loose. You do need the right wrenches to jam the two nut against each other.

That's a mountain bike, Should be 135mm between the inside of the frame at the axle slots. Take your wheel off and measure to be sure.

This wheel will fit a 135mm droput but needs a freewheel. They're inexpensive. I paid $12 for a Shimano 6 speed last February. They're up to $19.99 now.

Amazon.com : Wheel Master Rear 26 x 1.75/2.125, Silver, Alloy, B/O, 5/6/7 sp, 36H, SS14g Spokes : Bike Wheels : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Wheel Master Rear 26 x 1.75/2.125, Silver, Alloy, B/O, 5/6/7 sp, 36H, SS14g Spokes : Bike Wheels : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

I've got a wheelmaster rim on my BBS02 conversion. I needed the disk brake mounts. I used it with rim brakes for a year though.

WHat you said about converting the old rim brakes. Did that with my Trek 830. I suspect replacing the rusty cables helped too, but changing from center pull to post mounted brakes (bike had the posts) was like night/day.

 

[TimothyJ]

Will do the measurements and hopefully a new wheel will fit. Going to run with what I have until the bearings get loosened up again. Rode 17 miles today and according to the Bafang display I only used 5 volts. These machines are amazing!
Thanks for all of the responses.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Honestly i don't get why the bearing would keep getting loose... or how hi torque would affect it in that manner. I can see if it was eating up bearings due to the hi torque.
Are you sure a nut and or axle isn't stripped?

I agree with others.. if you go with a new wheel, I would increase the cassette size. The derailleur and shifter are easy changes at that point.

I just got back from 32.5 miles and only burned 1.1v... But my arss is tired for sure!

 

[Papadevo]

Will do the measurements and hopefully a new wheel will fit. Going to run with what I have until the bearings get loosened up again. Rode 17 miles today and according to the Bafang display I only used 5 volts. These machines are amazing!
Thanks for all of the responses.

Looks like Amazon has a 26” rear wheel that will take a 6 speed freewheel for $50. If you can remove the old freewheel from the broken wheel, and spin it on the new one, just a simple brake adjustment should get you back on the road.

 

[TimothyJ]

Can you send me the link?
Thanks!

 

[Sierratim]

Most replacement wheels with freewheel hubs are marketed as being compatible with 5, 6, & 7 speed freewheels. They use spacers on the axle to accomplish this. None I've found online mention coming with replacement spacers. My guess is the wheel comes setup for 7 speed. You'd need a shorter spacer for a 6 speed. Your LBS probably has these.

Changing the spacer requires that you loosen the lock nut on the drive side which would seem to put you right back where you are now. Once the lock nut is loosened the cone nut will be prone to loosening if the lock nut is not properly reinstalled.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Most replacement wheels with freewheel hubs are marketed as being compatible with 5, 6, & 7 speed freewheels. They use spacers on the axle to accomplish this. None I've found online mention coming with replacement spacers. My guess is the wheel comes setup for 7 speed. You'd need a shorter spacer for a 6 speed. Your LBS probably has these.

Changing the spacer requires that you loosen the lock nut on the drive side which would seem to put you right back where you are now. Once the lock nut is loosened the cone nut will be prone to loosening if the lock nut is not properly reinstalled.

I was thinking something similar after my last comment.
I wonder if the issue is an incorrect and or missing spacer?

Am I wrong in thinking that the increased torque really shouldn't affect the locking hardware and the wear point or issue that can arise can be the bearings?
Or am I missing something in my thought process?

 

[TimothyJ]

I would hope the bike shop would know if it was missing a spacer? Just rode 13 miles and the wheel has not loosened up at all. Maybe this time they got it right and no more issues, one can only hope. I also have been using the lower gears more effectively, maybe that has reduced the strain on the bearings?

 

[Gionnirocket]

I would hope the bike shop would know if it was missing a spacer? Just rode 13 miles and the wheel has not loosened up at all. Maybe this time they got it right and no more issues, one can only hope. I also have been using the lower gears more effectively, maybe that has reduced the strain on the bearings?

Yes you would hope that they would know... But in the end manufacturers do so many different installs that there is no standard. Add to that the age of the bike and the kid working on it might be younger than it.
Mine is a 2008 and I typically don't ride it hard and haven't had any problems.
Not sure how you want to use your bike... But another option to consider if the HD is more than you actually use is to tone it down with programming.