Wheel Won't Fit in Dropout with Derailleur Attached
- Thread starter Jo060
- Start date
I had some time to poke around today and found the following:
The first photo is the right dropout with the 2 threaded screw holes. I found a screw to fit but if I use those holes, the dropout on the derailleur doesn't line up with the dropout of the frame.
The 2nd photo shows how the derailleur is designed to fit without using the threaded holes.
I'm at a loss
The first photo is the right dropout with the 2 threaded screw holes. I found a screw to fit but if I use those holes, the dropout on the derailleur doesn't line up with the dropout of the frame.
The 2nd photo shows how the derailleur is designed to fit without using the threaded holes.
I'm at a loss
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I have. That last photo is just to show what the inside looks like with the derailleur and screw in place. It sticks out too far and hangs up on the side of the cassette.
I'm going to try to do a little filing of the nut and see what happens.
It's on the outside with the bolt passing through to the inside. The bolt is what was binding up. I just made about 6 passes on the back of the screw and it fits like a glove now... a very tight glove but it no longer touches the cassette.
You can see in the photo there is no room for the inside
I'm trying to get away without having to spread the frame at all. The right side of the wheel I'm able to fit a spacer on each side of the axle but the left side there is no clearance for a spacer on the inside.
How imperative is it to have a washer in each side of the axle?
You can see in the photo there is no room for a spacer on the inside.
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harryS
Well-Known Member
On bikes that use the hang-on derailleur hanger, one has to file the "C" part of the hanger to get the 12m flat of the motor axle deep enough into the dropout. Arrow points to that.
That round tab should seat in the dropout slot, but the axle shouldn't touch it. Sometimes it will hit the freewheel, but washers can be added. If the freewheel is that close, it's hard to use the small gear.
Is this an alloy or a steel frame? You can spread away with steel. Some people will spread alloy. I'm not one of them. A few mm probably won't hurt, but makes it very hard to change a tire in the field.
Will there be a disk brake rotor on the non-drive side? Doesn't look like it will fit.
Edit: This is a Hyper Havoc? Alloy frame. Rim brakes. At least that side is clear.
That round tab should seat in the dropout slot, but the axle shouldn't touch it. Sometimes it will hit the freewheel, but washers can be added. If the freewheel is that close, it's hard to use the small gear.
Is this an alloy or a steel frame? You can spread away with steel. Some people will spread alloy. I'm not one of them. A few mm probably won't hurt, but makes it very hard to change a tire in the field.
Edit: This is a Hyper Havoc? Alloy frame. Rim brakes. At least that side is clear.
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Not sure the name, but these dropouts are opposite. I have to lift the wheel in to the dropouts.
I did end up filing the dropouts a few days ago and now the axle fits. Do you suggest not spreading alloy?
PedalUma
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Petaluma, CA
There are a bunch of different alloys. 6061 is popular. I will move the dropouts in or out to fit a hub by a few mm when needed. Just be gentle. It only needs to fit a washer so it does not rub. Otherwise the bike cant be ridden.
I just tried this and it worked great, it definitely spread the dropouts as I could see it spread each time I tightened the nut.
The issue I'm having is when I loosen the nut, the dropouts spring back in right to where their original position was.
My thought is to spread further then needed but I wanted to get your opinion on this first.
PedalUma
Well-Known Member
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- USA
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- Petaluma, CA
I have found that I need to spread them out three times more than I need. If I need 3mm, I need to move them out by 9mm. Be gentile and give it another try.
Will do. Thanks
Alright! Everything is fit together.
I've noticed that after installing the rear wheel, it's difficult to spin byhand pedaling. I loosened the rear derailleur side and it began so spin as it should. Even with the right side slightly loosened, the derailleur will not go to the smallest gear unless I loosen the axle significantly. This isn't safe as it's only finger tight.
I've noticed that after installing the rear wheel, it's difficult to spin by
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harryS
Well-Known Member
Just one more washer. Or fall back to a 6-speed freewheel and a six speed trigger shifter. If it's a rotary shifter, you can set it to not use one gear.
I guess this is one case where the rear wheel brings in more problems, but I'd rather solve a rear wheel fitment vs worrying about a front wheel coming loose..
Do I add a washer to each side or just the derailleur side?
I'm not sure another washer could fit. The tolerances are very tight.
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AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
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- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
It's "difficult to spin by hand" COULD be because of the design of the motor and nothing to to with binding due to an installation issue. If you give it a quick spin, it's going to stop much sooner than you would expect. A front, non driven, wheel will spin much longer for instance. One of the down sides of a direct drive motor is the internal drag. It's generally not a big deal in practice. Few can really feel it, but there's little question it's there.
Do you feel any "notching" caused by the magnets if you move it slowly? If so, I'm guessing you are fine.
I apologize, I didn't word that well at all (I fixed my post). It spins freely when spun backwards by hand but when I turn the pedals or just use myhand is when it binds up and requires a lot of force to turn the wheel.
After further inspection, I think it's the rear derailleur screw that's still binding against the rear cassette. I've filed it down quite a bit, but it looks like it may require more.
Good luck with this. I shared your frustration yesterday trying to install a geared rear hub motor on my wife's Biria Easy Boarding 7 speed and had exactly the same issues. Dropouts too narrow, didn't want to spread the dropouts (a lot) and risk damaging the aluminum frame (and that alone wouldn't have allowed installation). Same type derailleur with the set screw that got in the way, no clearance for 7th gear cog without putting the anti turn washer inside the dropout along with a similar thick washer in addition which then made it very much too tight to install the wheel even without a required washer on the non-drive side. I had a new 6 speed freewheel but because of spacing differences between the 6 and 7 freewheels it only gave maybe a mm clearance. The original rear hub works with the 7 speed freewheel because it is narrow which allows a large amount of axle to protrude on the freewheel side while still being narrower between the axle nuts than the motor hub. Anyway after struggling for a couple hours I just gave up and put the front geared hub motor back on her bike.
I've put both front and rear geared hub motors on several bikes (moving from one bike to another) as well as having installed tongsheng mid drives on 6 different bikes. While there can be challenges with each type overall I've found the mid drives much easier and quicker to install than hub motors with exceptions like my wife's Biria, the frame of which doesn't allow for a mid drive. Again, good luck with your project I hope you have success.
I've put both front and rear geared hub motors on several bikes (moving from one bike to another) as well as having installed tongsheng mid drives on 6 different bikes. While there can be challenges with each type overall I've found the mid drives much easier and quicker to install than hub motors with exceptions like my wife's Biria, the frame of which doesn't allow for a mid drive. Again, good luck with your project I hope you have success.
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