What is a fair way to compare an Ebike to a conventional bike? An eBike for an Amateur Cyclist.

Nothing will stop you from pedaling a class 1 e-bike past 20, 30, or even 35 mph. I did this even before I installed a dongle to remove the restriction on my own bike. The bike will go as fast as you want it to; the only limitation is your own physical condition.

What if it is too hard to pedal up a 2% for 1.5 miles without power, the worst case?. Is that sufficient reason to reject it?

Bosch will take months to replace a warranty. The bike will be useless if the electronics fail.
 
If you want a true quantitative comparison, go buy some power meter pedals (or an aerodynamic-based power meter like the $300 powerpod), use them on all your bikes and ride them all with the same wattage output from your pedal stroke. This keeps them all on a level playing field. Watts are watts as several on here have said multiple times and you presumably need to use the same consistent level of fitness to generate those watts across all your bikes (sure there will be minor variations, but I suspect wattage is about the closest quantitative tool you have to keep consistent as a control). The question then is what kind of resultant output you'll use for assessing the differences in your comparison. Do you use distance? Speed? Exhaustion over a given distance? KOMs stolen (just kidding on that one...don't be THAT guy)?

Nice. That is exactly the conversation i had with the bike shop. He rides an ebike to work every day. A Trek super commuter+ 8. I really like him. When i gave him my guess about the information, he had no way to make use if the data. I would need an equation, no?

First thing, i will not be able to ride as fast and far on a single battery, i ride 25 miles, at least every other day. 30-40 miles are easy.
 
Now we getting somewhere. If it is too slow, install a dongle. OK. I'm with you on that.
No dongle necessary that I know of. You only would need a dongle to get motor assistance past the speed limitation. If you're looking for fitness then put in the pedal power necessary to get the bike over 20 mph. I've found on my CCS that the bike is perfectly rideable at speeds higher than the motor assistance offers. I just have to put in more pedaling to do so.
 
No dongle necessary that I know of. You only would need a dongle to get motor assistance past the speed limitation. If you're looking for fitness then put in the pedal power necessary to get the bike over 20 mph. I've found on my CCS that the bike is perfectly rideable at speeds higher than the motor assistance offers. I just have to put in more pedaling to do so.

OK. Then you are saying I underestimate the ebike? I should have no problem hitting 35? I hit 35 many times every day. This i know perfectly, because it is the route to my mother's place. I have a hard time believing this, but i can readily distinguish the exact differences. I do not want to set myself up for disappointment.
 
I have intentionally ridden my e-bike without power on a few occasions; once to see what was like, and on others to conserve power (I ride with a Yamaha mid-drive and only have a 400wH battery). Sunday I rode 23 miles unpowered. It is definitely more work than a lighter bike, and I won't say it is pleasant, but it is not horrible either. OK, accelerating from a dead stop is horrible. :p I still passed some people on regular bikes...and of course I was passed by many on their sub-20 lb. carbon bikes with aero bars and wheels.
 
I have intentionally ridden my e-bike without power on a few occasions; once to see what was like, and on others to conserve power (I ride with a Yamaha mid-drive and only have a 400wH battery). Sunday I rode 23 miles unpowered. It is definitely more work than a lighter bike, and I won't say it is pleasant, but it is not horrible either. OK, accelerating from a dead stop is horrible. :p I still passed some people on regular bikes...and of course I was passed by many on their sub-20 lb. carbon bikes with aero bars and wheels.

Should i only use the bike unpowered at first? I think you get the true feel for the bike without power. I tested all bikes unpowered at first. I can practice with the bike for a few weeks to see the progress that i can make.

My rule was i had to be able to get the bike to 27mph in the parking lot, from a dead stop. Otherwise, I reject it.
 
I would be disappointed by the downhill performance. I always exceed 30mph; 35mph is normal in many stretches.

I think your ebike will go very fast downhill. And it will be stable with his long wheelbase. It’ll feel great!
 
I think your ebike will go very fast downhill. And it will be stable with his long wheelbase. It’ll feel great!

OK? I will tell you exactly what it does. I do hate the way my road bike bounces all over the path. My mountain bike does not go as fast, but it rides much more smoothly. The ride is roughly equal.
 
And set yourself up for disappointment? It's an e-bike. Surely you bought it for the motor. Use it, enjoy it.

I sometimes take an easy route around the lake, when time is short. I enjoy that ride.

Perhaps, the more relevant question is: what power level leads to the most fair comparison? Eco?
 
I think your ebike will go very fast downhill. And it will be stable with his long wheelbase. It’ll feel great!

The chain ring is maximum 15T. I hate the small chain ring with low gear. I realize the 2.5x reduction. The fixed, small chain ring makes me very skeptical. No dropbars makes 25+ hard to achieve. I am not too sure about the basic configuration can actually exceed 30mph.

Although, it is similar to my mountain bike. I am OK with it.
 
Perhaps, the more relevant question is: what power level leads to the most fair comparison? Eco?

Why does it have to be fair? Why compare between bikes and e-bikes at all? E-bikes are a new and different thing. Until you start riding one regularly, this is all just a mental exercise in...I don't even know.

Wait until you get it. I can almost guarantee this conversation will become irrelevant.
 
Why does it have to be fair? Why compare between bikes and e-bikes at all? E-bikes are a new and different thing. Until you start riding one regularly, this is all just a mental exercise in...I don't even know.

Wait until you get it. I can almost guarantee this conversation will become irrelevant.

I might retun it. I have more trails and paths to test in my area than i can possibly ride in 30 days. After all, i live in Denver!
 
Why does it have to be fair? Why compare between bikes and e-bikes at all? E-bikes are a new and different thing. Until you start riding one regularly, this is all just a mental exercise in...I don't even know.

Wait until you get it. I can almost guarantee this conversation will become irrelevant.

OK. Here is my first test: Red Rocks Ampitheatre. I do not know why i chose this. The ride has every type of terrain. This should only take two hours, or less. This will surely separate a good bike from a bad one. This could be a harsh test, too. Because Red Rocks is a place everybody loves!

I will put the bike in eMTB mode. Let Bosch decide.

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It sounds to me like you are either having buyers remorse or overthinking it. E-bikes are a unique experience. When you get the bike, go for a ride. Did you have fun and enjoy the experience? After you have had it for a few days and decide grab a bike to go for a ride, do you feel like grabbing the e-bike or want to use one of your other bikes? You will probably know within the 30 days whether or not you want to take advantage of that "no bull" return policy.
 
It sounds to me like you are either having buyers remorse or overthinking it. E-bikes are a unique experience. When you get the bike, go for a ride. Did you have fun and enjoy the experience? After you have had it for a few days and decide grab a bike to go for a ride, do you feel like grabbing the e-bike or want to use one of your other bikes? You will probably know within the 30 days whether or not you want to take advantage of that "no bull" return policy.

OK. I just want to be fair. Red Rocks is a sanctuary. You cannot return from Red Rocks without a huge psychological boost.

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I expect the bike will perform well on the uphill sections. I expect to lose an equal amount on the downhill parts.
Max recorded speed on my Haibike XDURO Full Seven S RX is 41.8mph. You won't lose an equal amount going downhill.
 
You bought the e-bike as a car replacement, so:
Load the carbon road bike with 50 lb groceries, ride the route. Since no rack, this would be in your backpack.
Load the ebike basket/pannier/trailer with 50 lb groceries, do the same. Which is better?
For pure pleasure riding for the fit, in a road race position, the e-bike is going to be no comparison. But that is not what you bought it for. You bought an electric grocery cart.
I was sick this week, fever & dizzy, but needed groceries. I pushed a 3 spd bike with rack bags lock and chain to the store three blocks away. This saved me from walking 6 blocks 3 times since you can't take purchases from one store into the other two stores. Voila, unpowered grocery cart. Bike had no utility as a bike since my balance was off this week. But beat dragging one of those wall-mart carts with the tiny wheels through the ditches, since there are no sidewalks here.
BTW, since stretching my range to 50 miles in 4 hours is the reason I bought a power wheel, no drag with a dead battery is important to me. AC socket is not available for charging at most festivals & concerts. The geared hub kit I bought, passes this test, since it has failed every time to run electrically over 13 miles. No drag, not noticeable. Direct drive "1000 W 48v" hub kit failed miserably. Drag was not too bad first 20 miles then something bound up internally and was like pedaling a dead whale with no cart. Never even got out to the country property where I keep the battery. Had to call for a ride back to town. No response from email to seller, thanks e-bay.
 
You bought the e-bike as a car replacement, so:
Load the carbon road bike with 50 lb groceries, ride the route. Since no rack, this would be in your backpack.
Load the ebike basket/pannier/trailer with 50 lb groceries, do the same. Which is better?
For pure pleasure riding for the fit, in a road race position, the e-bike is going to be no comparison. But that is not what you bought it for. You bought an electric grocery cart.
I was sick this week, fever & dizzy, but needed groceries. I pushed a 3 spd bike with rack bags lock and chain to the store three blocks away. This saved me from walking 6 blocks 3 times since you can't take purchases from one store into the other two stores. Voila, unpowered grocery cart. Bike had no utility as a bike since my balance was off this week. But beat dragging one of those wall-mart carts with the tiny wheels through the ditches, since there are no sidewalks here.
BTW, since stretching my range to 50 miles in 4 hours is the reason I bought a power wheel, no drag with a dead battery is important to me. AC socket is not available for charging at most festivals & concerts. The geared hub kit I bought, passes this test, since it has failed every time to run electrically over 13 miles. No drag, not noticeable. Direct drive "1000 W 48v" hub kit failed miserably. Drag was not too bad first 20 miles then something bound up internally and was like pedaling a dead whale with no cart. Never even got out to the country property where I keep the battery. Had to call for a ride back to town. No response from email to seller, thanks e-bay.

Well, i carried a 24 pack of Coors, a camelback and an even larger backpack stuffed with food home today on my carbon bike. I probably looked like some type of one-handed, carnival freak. I was dangerously overloaded. How much did it weigh, 25 pounds? I don't know. I could not carry any more, but i did it.

Oh, yea, after riding 40+ miles. Probably, closer to 50. Because half of the time i only had a vague idea where i was.
 
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