What Gear for pedal assist?
- Thread starter Calldon
- Start date
mrgold35
Well-Known Member
I'm assuming the PAS set-up for the Radrover is the same for the Radmini and there wasn't any changes for the latest 2018 models of each.
Each PAS level has a certain wattage assigned to each PAS level that stays constant until the motor cut-off at 20 mph, for the 2016 Radrover:
PAS 0: 0 watts
PAS 1: 75 watts
PAS 2: 175 watts
PAS 3: 375 watts
PAS 4: 550 watts
PAS 5: 750 watts
Any pedaling you do is really to assist the rear hub motor to help improve acceleration, increase range, and stress off the hub motor. I usually ride PAS 2 for trails (6-12 mph) and PAS 3 for paved roads (14-22 mph). I always pick a gear that is close to 55-75 rpms because that is the pedal speed I'm comfortable with to do longer rides. Really depends on my speed, twist/turns, and inclines/declines; but, usually between 5th to 7th on paved surfaces and around 3rd to 5th on hardpacked/single track trails.
I also cheat a little bit and use the throttle since it can provide full 750 watts of power at any PAS level. I can be as PAS 3, leave it in 7th gear, and use the throttle to get me up to my cruising speed of 18-20 mph faster. I do this a lot in the morning when it is 15-30 degrees on my work commute and I have thick gloves and Bar Mitts on the handle bars. I do a lot more shifting when the weather is warmer outside.
Each PAS level has a certain wattage assigned to each PAS level that stays constant until the motor cut-off at 20 mph, for the 2016 Radrover:
PAS 0: 0 watts
PAS 1: 75 watts
PAS 2: 175 watts
PAS 3: 375 watts
PAS 4: 550 watts
PAS 5: 750 watts
Any pedaling you do is really to assist the rear hub motor to help improve acceleration, increase range, and stress off the hub motor. I usually ride PAS 2 for trails (6-12 mph) and PAS 3 for paved roads (14-22 mph). I always pick a gear that is close to 55-75 rpms because that is the pedal speed I'm comfortable with to do longer rides. Really depends on my speed, twist/turns, and inclines/declines; but, usually between 5th to 7th on paved surfaces and around 3rd to 5th on hardpacked/single track trails.
I also cheat a little bit and use the throttle since it can provide full 750 watts of power at any PAS level. I can be as PAS 3, leave it in 7th gear, and use the throttle to get me up to my cruising speed of 18-20 mph faster. I do this a lot in the morning when it is 15-30 degrees on my work commute and I have thick gloves and Bar Mitts on the handle bars. I do a lot more shifting when the weather is warmer outside.
I start is Pas 1 or 2 on my Mini. If I am in town I use the throttle to start at intersections. Do not start in 3, you may crash, too fast. Because of the upright riding position and the weight of an e-bike, I would recommend using Pas 1 and the throttle, until you get use to the power and balance. Good Luck.
cayjak
Member
We just got our 2018 RadMini a week ago. I've been out on it every day, getting used to how it rides. We have two other eBikes. One is a 3-speed Nexus IGH cruiser style bike my wife rides, and the other is a 8-speed tadpole trike. Both of them have 750 watt mid-drive (BBS02B) motors. The RadMini is our first geared hub motor bike. Since the mid-drive bikes send the motor power through the gears, you need to pay attention to picking the correct gear for your riding conditions. With the RadMini, on the other hand, the motor doesn't know (or care) what gear you are in. It provides the same amount of power in every gear, depending only on the PAS setting you select and/or the throttle input.
What this means is, you can be less concerned with choosing gears to match conditions. You don't necessarily need to shift down to a low gear to start out, but you can if that makes you feel more comfortable. You can shift a lot, like a "normal" bike, or you can be lazy and just leave it in the best "cruising" gear for the speed you want to maintain. Let the motor do the "hard" work getting you up to speed.
Like many others, I am already wishing for a different range of gearing on the RadMini. On our flat roads where we ride, 1st and 2nd gear are useless because I immediately spin out. Even at our normal, slow, around-the-neighborhood speeds, I find 4th gear is as low as I need to go. If I want to ride faster, even when using 7th gear I can't pedal above about 20 mph without spinning out. I am already looking for a bigger chain wheel as described in other threads on this Forum. I wish Rad Power would offer a suitable larger chain wheel in the "Parts" section of their website.
I think the RadMini is terrific fun to ride, and I am very pleased with our purchase. It's a lot of good stuff in a reasonably priced package.
What this means is, you can be less concerned with choosing gears to match conditions. You don't necessarily need to shift down to a low gear to start out, but you can if that makes you feel more comfortable. You can shift a lot, like a "normal" bike, or you can be lazy and just leave it in the best "cruising" gear for the speed you want to maintain. Let the motor do the "hard" work getting you up to speed.
Like many others, I am already wishing for a different range of gearing on the RadMini. On our flat roads where we ride, 1st and 2nd gear are useless because I immediately spin out. Even at our normal, slow, around-the-neighborhood speeds, I find 4th gear is as low as I need to go. If I want to ride faster, even when using 7th gear I can't pedal above about 20 mph without spinning out. I am already looking for a bigger chain wheel as described in other threads on this Forum. I wish Rad Power would offer a suitable larger chain wheel in the "Parts" section of their website.
I think the RadMini is terrific fun to ride, and I am very pleased with our purchase. It's a lot of good stuff in a reasonably priced package.
Last edited:
TonyBlonie
New Member
I replaced the rear gear set today with a 11-28 set from Amazon and it helped a lot. I can now hit 25 mph without spinning out too much. DNP Epoch Freewheel 7spd 11-28 Nickel Plated is what I got because it was recommended in another post. I see now there is a 11-30 option which will give you a better low gear than the 28. The 2018 Rad Rover has a granny gear that is a 34 tooth but I rarely went into 1st because it was so low. You need to get the thin wall removal tool also and cut it to get past the nut with wire. I didn't cut mine completely in half but left a small section on one side. You can pry open the full cut side with a screw driver to get it over the wire after sliding the nut down to the connector, then squeezing the tool back together with pliers before inserting in the hub. If I want any more speed I will need to replace the front gear but I am happy for now.
TonyBlonie
New Member
TonyBlonie
New Member
The new gearset has a wider inside flange so you do not need the spacer that is behind the original gearset.
ebikemom
Well-Known Member
I can start my bike in any gear--Since I live on a flat street, I usually start in 7th (the highest) gear, which is the gear I generally ride in unless I'm going up a hill. I start in a lower PAS, 1 or 2 (my bike has five levels of PAS). Sometimes I start with the throttle, sometimes I start by pedaling.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Same here. I have the bike in 3 or 4, PAS 1 to start. I always use the throttle to help get the bike moving through that awkward first couple of feet where you're getting your balance. From there, if I'm accelerating to get across a street, I generally use the throttle AND pedal to get across as quickly as possible. Otherwise, I'll continue using just the pedal assist to conserve power, and shift up into higher gears as my speed comes up.
larry-new
Active Member
Although lighter people can start in a higher gear, us heavier types need the knee assistance, and with the Rad, the throttle is there too in case an extra burst is called for.
Getting back to the OP, the question of what gear to ride in has many variables- Myself and my City, with rock hard tires on smooth roadways has little relation to a go-anywhere Mini on or off a path. I and my older knees don't like to push and would much rather spin at 100 rpm at Pas 1, going up in gear when a downgrade or tail breeze or Pas 2 make it easier. At speed, on an easy road, I'm constantly switching between gear 5-6-7, and am never without Pas 1, but using more assistance reluctantly. When my speed drops below 15mph, I explore alternatives, which are abundant on this bike.
Btw, there's no such thing as a flat road to a cyclist...lol!
Getting back to the OP, the question of what gear to ride in has many variables- Myself and my City, with rock hard tires on smooth roadways has little relation to a go-anywhere Mini on or off a path. I and my older knees don't like to push and would much rather spin at 100 rpm at Pas 1, going up in gear when a downgrade or tail breeze or Pas 2 make it easier. At speed, on an easy road, I'm constantly switching between gear 5-6-7, and am never without Pas 1, but using more assistance reluctantly. When my speed drops below 15mph, I explore alternatives, which are abundant on this bike.
Btw, there's no such thing as a flat road to a cyclist...lol!
Last edited:
