DaveMatthews
Well-Known Member
Interesting, and odd... cheers!Canadian Revolt Es were Shimano, at least for a few model years. US Spec Revolt E+ Pros were always Yamaha.
Interesting, and odd... cheers!Canadian Revolt Es were Shimano, at least for a few model years. US Spec Revolt E+ Pros were always Yamaha.
The reason is Shimano has never accepted anything above Class 1 or 32 km/h while Yamaha had no issue with Class 3 (only in the U.S.) I guess.Interesting, and odd... cheers!
SyncDrive Pro motor, that would he a Yamaha based unit
Picture says Shimano indeed, hmmm weird
I think this is largely true - roadies have been conditioned for years, decades really, that less is more. It's no wonder that they are hesitant to think that more can indeed be more.Could it be because there's just not as much demand for e-road bikes compared to other types of e-bikes?
Mid-drive motors are usually heavier and more noticeable.
Personally, I feel like e-road bikes with hub motors fit better with what most road cyclists are used to.
I've been looking at Scott Addict eRide 30. It's got a max torque of 23Nm. I'm not sure if that's gonna be enough for me.
I weigh 154 lbs and sometimes hit slopes about 10%.
Do you always need to troll, PCebiker?
Katrina, please Ignore PCebiker. He is even not pedalling his e-motorcycle![]()
This one continues to garner strong reviews. All carbon frame, forks, one piece handlebar and stem & seat post for a total weight of 28lbs/12.7kg. Either in a road or gravel configuration. It's not for sale in Europe unfortunately and probably never will with the great orange one's new tariff regime and as a US brand I'm not familiar with Ride1UP except on here. But I have to say hats off for producing such a good looking well built bike at that price. It does raise a question as to why other brands cannot do similar bikes at this low price?
A hub drive without a torque sensor! Those are both non-starters. The carbon part is then smoke and mirrors.
Another biggie; The battery is not removable and is proprietary. So when it takes a dump you are screwed. There are several things you want in a battery: It must be external and easily removeable. It must have an On/Off switch. It must have a USB port to safely take down the charge and to safely jump the BMS. It must have an aluminum case, not plastic. When the tech changes, you can use any battery you choose by splicing it in. There are other things such as the quality of the cells and BMS. If you are stuck with only one source, that is bad. A lack of access and control, that is bad.Oof, yeah, I missed that. Light road ebike is definitely something you want decent torque sensing on.
The battery is not removable and is proprietary. So when it takes a dump you are screwed.Another biggie; The battery is not removable and is proprietary. So when it takes a dump you are screwed. There are several things you want in a battery: It must be external and easily removeable. It must have an On/Off switch. It must have a USB port to safely take down the charge and to safely jump the BMS. It must have an aluminum case, not plastic. When the tech changes, you can use any battery you choose by splicing it in. There are other things such as the quality of the cells and BMS. If you are stuck with only one source, that is bad. A lack of access and control, that is bad.
I first saw this bike when reviewed by Electric Bike Journal and the lack of torque bothered me, but the reviewer said:Oof, yeah, I missed that. Light road ebike is definitely something you want decent torque sensing on.
Testing at your LBS is always a good idea.
- a friend of mine who is a real bike enthusiast does his commute to work once a week (one day at the office) by bike, route is roughly 90 km one way -
A hub drive without a torque sensor! Those are both non-starters. The carbon part is then smoke and mirrors.
You also want a non-proprietary charge port, so you are not stuck there either. You are correct all of the high-end bikes at stores have internal proprietary batteries so you are stuck, like having only one source for a toner cartage with no right to repair. Those bikes are nice until they are not. You cannot even change basic settings such as speed or wheel diameter. Then you are forced to get updates which are mostly downloads of your data, so you don't own that either. Any decent eBike mechanic uses a soldering iron. It is true most shops lack basic skills and cannot repair, only swap parts. It is all done through central command. A good splice is not visible and does not have a connector.The battery is not removable and is proprietary. So when it takes a dump you are screwed.
Are you reporting from 1995? Half the quality ebikes out there have non removable and proprietary batteries including all the SL lightweight bikes - It allows the manufacturers to control quality and efficiency and so avoid any DIY style fires and get most efficient use. Four and a half year old Vado SL here with proprietary non removal battery still going strong. And for heaven's sake who is going to risk 'splicing in a battery' on a carbon road bike?