WARNNG re: Biktrix Return Policy

Sorry to hear. Did they not abide bythe return policy that’s on their website?

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Edit: never mind, I missed the link you posted above.
 
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I'll never buy another eBike without making very sure what their policy is. Biktrix takes the cake, as they HIDE it on their website.
It looks like their terms and conditions are pretty easy to find. You have to check a box agreeing to them before you can proceed to the checkout. Their is a link to the actual terms and conditions (view terms) to the right of the “I agree” checkbox.

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Sorry to hear. Did they not abide bythe return policy that’s on their website?

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Edit: never mind, I missed the link you posted above.

Yeah, you really have to dig around to find the bit about the 15% restocking fee. And I don't think it mentions having to pay the INITIAL shipping fee - which was "free" - for when they originally shipped you the bike. Total SCAM. They are doing everything they can to not lose one red cent on the transaction, instead of factoring it in as the cost of doing business. I bought a 1up rack recently - $1,200 worth, all-in. I found out that the original founder split off and started his own company, again, and came up with a better version, due out soon, called the Mach2. 1up has a return policy where they just send me a prepaid shipping label. No BS about the BOX or "initial shipping" fees or "restocking fee". You know, like most companies. Reputable, decent, unGREEDY companies.
 
It looks like their terms and conditions are pretty easy to find. You have to check a box agreeing to them before you can proceed to the checkout. Their is a link to the actual terms and conditions (view terms) to the right of the “I agree” checkbox.

View attachment 78171

Who actually reads Terms and Conditions? "The fine print"? And why isn't there just a plain ol' easy to find link that says: "RETURNS". You can even search the entire site using the search box and you won't find anything about returns except an FAQ on how to pack a bike to return it. No link in there, even, to the actual return policy. Tell me this isn't on purpose. Other sites have "Returns" links in obvious places. Clearly Biktrix doesn't want you to be dissuaded in buying with the HUGE RIPOFF of trying to send the bike back if you want to or need to. I know it's all no-big-deal if you got a great eBike from them and it actually works as intended - the chain doesn't snap every few miles, for example, like mine does - or you actually fit on the bike, like I don't. It's easy to brush this off as just a disgruntled guy with buyers remorse, or something, (which I don't have), trying to return something on a bogus whim. It's all cool until you're that guy. Me. A very pissed off Me, who's going to lose probably $800 on this bike, forced to sell it USED, at far less, AND, I have to hope and pray the chain fix I just paid to have done sticks and doesn't break in a mile or two for my buyer - and keeps happening to them. So then they come back to ME asking for their money back, and I go through this nightmare endlessly, until I spend god-knows how much more getting the bike fixed by replacing every part of the drive train until chains stop breaking. But let's make sure RYAN BARBER doesn't lose a penny. M'er-F'er.
 
Eric: I just read through this and your other posting on this issue. Some questions and unsolicited advice, for you:

120nm is alot of torque in that mid drive. My Yamaha PW puts out a max of 80 at 500 watts. To do that, I have to be going up an incredibly steep, steep grade. Imagine the stresses on the chain if I'm at that kind of motor output. This is where using the proper gear is important. It saves the life of the chain as well as the front and rear teeth on the sprockets and chain ring.

When starting out pedaling on your bike, what gear are you in, on that rear 7 speed cassette? Are you in the lowest gear (the biggest rear cog) or one of the higher gears (smallest cogs)? If you are not starting out in the lowest gear possible, you are putting a heck of alot of unneccesary strain on those chain links; causing at the least, premature chain wear by stretching it out and at the worst, finding that weakest link in the chain, and snapping it. I think you found that weakest link.

If that were my ebike, I'd look at my pedaling techniques for starters. If I am a "masher", then I need to look at spinning; especially and always, when starting out riding. Then.......I'd look at upgrading my drive train. Starting with the most obvious thing first: that OEM chain. Look for a new chain that is made with Ebikes in mind. Then, later on, with a few hundred or thousand miles on the odometer, look into upgrading the drive system; scraping that low tier level Shimano Altus derailleur for a top level Shimano Deore XT. XT shifter. A more appropriate rear gear cluster......this is where your bike shop can be of great help. Tell them you want to upgrade your gearing to a 10 speed cluster, maybe 40-11 gearing. 38/36-11. Ask them if your rear hub can accomodate that cluster (yours may not; always ask before jumping in!). Get a top level Shimano 10 speed chain or a similar chain from KMC, ebike compatible.

Then, you will be able to explore the possibilities of that 120nm motor more efficiently.

TLDR Version: Replace current chain with a high quality, brand new chain. Be religious about inspecting, cleaning and lubing your chain. Review your pedaling techniques. Always start pedaling in the lowest rear gear ratio as possible to relieve stress on the chain and all gear teeth. Look later into upgrading your drivetrain system. Forget lawsuits and procuring empty bike boxes for shipment and enjoy your ebike.

Final note: Park Tools has some terrific, How-To videos on bike repair over on You Tube. I always like going there when working on my Haibike. Good luck and let us know how things work out.




 
TLDr version, to me and and my recreational riding , sure sounds pretty unfun! I am getting the same feed back on my Bosch powered bike. Start in lowest gear , come to a stop to shift and repeat .on top of this I am also told not use high power , how am I going to get to 28 mph for my hours of cruising if I have to almost stop to shift And can’t use high power. I am wearing out chain and hub at 1200 miles so at least it isn’t breaking and leaving me stranded. I hope I can find reliable DD rear hub, seems maybe Eric should be looking for one of these also, maybe a belt drive. I sympathize over the 800 bucks.
 
Who actually reads Terms and Conditions? "The fine print"? And why isn't there just a plain ol' easy to find link that says: "RETURNS". You can even search the entire site using the search box and you won't find anything about returns except an FAQ on how to pack a bike to return it. No link in there, even, to the actual return policy. Tell me this isn't on purpose.
I forget the brand, but one of the popular companies on here had a video clip on how they take back any bike, no questions asked (within narrow circumstances), and how consumers need to be aware of this scheme to do exactly what you argue. Can't remember the name of the company, though.
 
TLDr version, to me and and my recreational riding , sure sounds pretty unfun! I am getting the same feed back on my Bosch powered bike. Start in lowest gear , come to a stop to shift and repeat .on top of this I am also told not use high power , how am I going to get to 28 mph for my hours of cruising if I have to almost stop to shift And can’t use high power. I am wearing out chain and hub at 1200 miles so at least it isn’t breaking and leaving me stranded. I hope I can find reliable DD rear hub, seems maybe Eric should be looking for one of these also, maybe a belt drive. I sympathize over the 800 bucks.
Please, it's NOT about the available power. There are a TON of Bafang mid drives in use, many (most!) capable of delivering 1500w or more, and they are not tearing up chains or cartridges. Truth be told, they are not likely trying to "cruise" at 28mph either though. Sure, they'll crack 30mph easily, but generally that's just for a sprint. Cruising at that kind of speed is a whole different matter.

My advice would be to monitor your watt meter. That will tell you exactly how much strain you are putting on your drive train. DON'T try shifting (up or down) when you are pushing it. Punch in a higher PAS level if you need more power to climb that hill. That's WAY easier on the drive train.....
 
Who actually reads Terms and Conditions? "The fine print"? And why isn't there just a plain ol' easy to find link that says: "RETURNS". You can even search the entire site using the search box and you won't find anything about returns except an FAQ on how to pack a bike to return it. No link in there, even, to the actual return policy. Tell me this isn't on purpose. Other sites have "Returns" links in obvious places. Clearly Biktrix doesn't want you to be dissuaded in buying with the HUGE RIPOFF of trying to send the bike back if you want to or need to. I know it's all no-big-deal if you got a great eBike from them and it actually works as intended - the chain doesn't snap every few miles, for example, like mine does - or you actually fit on the bike, like I don't. It's easy to brush this off as just a disgruntled guy with buyers remorse, or something, (which I don't have), trying to return something on a bogus whim. It's all cool until you're that guy. Me. A very pissed off Me, who's going to lose probably $800 on this bike, forced to sell it USED, at far less, AND, I have to hope and pray the chain fix I just paid to have done sticks and doesn't break in a mile or two for my buyer - and keeps happening to them. So then they come back to ME asking for their money back, and I go through this nightmare endlessly, until I spend god-knows how much more getting the bike fixed by replacing every part of the drive train until chains stop breaking. But let's make sure RYAN BARBER doesn't lose a penny. M'er-F'er.
When I spent $3200 for two E-bikes shipped across the country from a company (Aventon) I had never dealt with nor heard of until I started researching E-bikes, I definitely read the Terms and Conditions including any fine print.

When I purchased a $900 Bafang Kit from Luna Cycles I definitely read the return policy.

When I purchase a $20.00 item on the internet, meh, not so much.
 
TLDr version, to me and and my recreational riding , sure sounds pretty unfun! I am getting the same feed back on my Bosch powered bike. Start in lowest gear , come to a stop to shift and repeat .on top of this I am also told not use high power , how am I going to get to 28 mph for my hours of cruising if I have to almost stop to shift And can’t use high power. I am wearing out chain and hub at 1200 miles so at least it isn’t breaking and leaving me stranded. I hope I can find reliable DD rear hub, seems maybe Eric should be looking for one of these also, maybe a belt drive. I sympathize over the 800 bucks.
you don't have to stop peddling to shift you just need to ease up. or how I do on the tandem push harder then let up and shift no speed loss. you can use turbo if you shift well you can get at least 1200 miles on a chain as long as you keep track of wear you wont wear out the hub. I have worn out 3 chains on my Bosch bike still have the original cassette. I did replace the chain ring with a smaller one and that its gone at least 6000 miles.
 
My bike is for sale shortly , if the bike shop doesnt want to fix it any more and it has 1 ride on the new chain and cassette I don’t want to wear out,then tells me I am doing everything wrong it is just not a good marriage. I ordered another bike yesterday, was going to get a Hilleater with th e GMAC but shipping was cost prohibitive to the states probably(nice peopl on the phone.... and WattWagon is giving me a long term demo and maybe till the Helios are built I may buy it too, and I don’t need another temporary bike . It is the titanium frame bike with the Kindernay shifter and 2300 watt controller , I still have the BH nitro that kind of works also

I did all these suggestions last time and still got lectured I was doing it wrong.either makes me be
believe I can’t do this correcty or possibly something else is up or maybe they just have a snotty Lycra bike attitude after all...

sorry to go off topic....
 
Yeah, you really have to dig around to find the bit about the 15% restocking fee. And I don't think it mentions having to pay the INITIAL shipping fee - which was "free" - for when they originally shipped you the bike. Total SCAM. They are doing everything they can to not lose one red cent on the transaction, instead of factoring it in as the cost of doing business. I bought a 1up rack recently - $1,200 worth, all-in. I found out that the original founder split off and started his own company, again, and came up with a better version, due out soon, called the Mach2. 1up has a return policy where they just send me a prepaid shipping label. No BS about the BOX or "initial shipping" fees or "restocking fee". You know, like most companies. Reputable, decent, unGREEDY companies.
Do the right thing and edit out the negative comments. Sheesh!
 
Wait, the OP checked a box saying they agreed with the terms and conditions, when they actually never read the terms and conditions? Now they want to go back and say they don't agree? I'm going to do that with everything I buy from now on. Can't wait to get that Ferrari and mansion, and then tell them I don't agree with the sales terms that I never read, after the fact. Then, I'll post on a forum how they're the ones being shady.
 
Hello EBR community. Biktrix? Sympathizing with the Op here but more important looking for advise? What would you do? Just received the Biktrix Ultra 1000. $3600. Looked ok at first however a few details.
1. The right brake controller barrel connector wire was never connected. It’s about 3” too short. (Looks as if they hid it behind the Velcro wrap).
2. Rear taillight wire is run in front of the taillight and to the back so it can snag and tear off and is directly in front of the light.
3. The rear rack is bent a bit and the paint flaking off where it bent
4. They ran the rear brake lines directly in front of the headlight where it blocks part of the beam.. if I reroute it it pushes the light sideways and forward.
5. The rear brake line looks too long and is crimped enough at the neck to see a whitened fold in it. Future problems? To go with this topic, two of the lines are run on the outside of the down tube exposed to the elements - only attached by zip ties. Poor design.

I purchased a Stunner X for my wife a few months ago and the quality is great. This Ultra bike looks as if they just didn’t care.For nearly $4k I expect it to be good, not all these quality bumps. I don’t want to rewire and run new brake lines. Wondering if I can expect something else (motor) to occur - if these items ar like this? I have ridden it one time. I am in my 14 day window but to the OPs point, the fees? A few photos - have more but whats the point.

Now is your chance - what would you do?
 

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Are you really asking me to give you an answer bro?

Get it returned!! 🙂
 
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