Wanting to upgrade my existing Ebike and need help

MrCaspan

Active Member
So I am a complete Neb when it comes to this stuff but really pick stuff up quick. I wanted to get a few simple question answered..

1. Can any battery work with any controller as long as it's rated for it? IE you can use 48v with a controller that can take 48v or a controller that can do 20v to 70v?

2. Do you HAVE to pair the screen to the controller or the other way around? Should I pick a screen then find a controller that's compatible with it?

3. When choosing my wattage ratting of my controller should my controller be rater lower then my motor or higher then my motor. I know motor rating ie 500w is normally it's running wattage not its peak wattage. So I am thinking my controller should be rated over my hub motor so it can provide the peak power it needs when on hills etc?

4. when pairing a hub motor to a controller what do I need to look at to make sure they are compatable?

5. If I upgrade my hub motor do you normally just restring your spokes or get a bike shop to install it or do you have to get it pre-strung on a rim?

6.If I am going to upgrade the controller, screen, and hub what order should I do them in?

7. How do I make sure I don't over run the hub motor and burn it out? I am looking at a 1000w sustained motor with peak about 1500w

If you have any experience in any of these questions please would love to hear your ideas!
 
If you have any experience in any of these questions please would love to hear your ideas!
Buy a kit from a reliable source. You wouldn’t buy a dashboard and look for a car to fit. Don’t overthink your fun project. ebikes.ca aka Grin has great kits and a fantastic site for learning. You can drill down some answers there and do use their modeling and performance calculators.
 
Buy a kit from a reliable source. You wouldn’t buy a dashboard and look for a car to fit. Don’t overthink your fun project. ebikes.ca aka Grin has great kits and a fantastic site for learning. You can drill down some answers there and do use their modeling and performance calculators.
Thanks @Thomas Jaszewski have been visiting that site a lot to be honest. Their prices seem a bit steep but maybe I'm just hoping for cheaper prices when comparing them to befang motors on Amazon. I am a Canadian so it makes part shipping easier and supporting local. The one thing I don't like about them is the displays are really out dated. I know they are probably way better and they are 100% customizable and tweakable. They just look really ugly, does anyone know if a nicer TFT befang screen is compatible with them?
 
Thanks @Thomas Jaszewski have been visiting that site a lot to be honest. Their prices seem a bit steep but maybe I'm just hoping for cheaper prices when comparing them to befang motors on Amazon. I am a Canadian so it makes part shipping easier and supporting local. The one thing I don't like about them is the displays are really out dated. I know they are probably way better and they are 100% customizable and tweakable. They just look really ugly, does anyone know if a nicer TFT befang screen is compatible with them?
Yikes, outdated? None of the displays are actually made by Bafang and I’ve never seen another display with the capabilities of the CA3.

not many others have controllers as reliable and useable through a range of voltages. I run 36v 48v and 52v batts on the same controller.

Above all, learn and have fun.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20201221_164909281.jpg
    PXL_20201221_164909281.jpg
    267.2 KB · Views: 472
  • PXL_20201221_155551127.jpg
    PXL_20201221_155551127.jpg
    573.2 KB · Views: 390
  • PXL_20201220_164801728.jpg
    PXL_20201220_164801728.jpg
    615.7 KB · Views: 370
  • PXL_20201220_164429434.jpg
    PXL_20201220_164429434.jpg
    223.9 KB · Views: 342
I agree that CA3 display is outdated. If it were not for that I would likely have a GMAC in my stable. Love THAT concept. REALLY dislike the CA3. Grin needs to take a time out to update to one of their own, or convert to one of the ones used on Bafang's or maybe a KT systems color display

You already know I'm a big KT controller fan, and the display is generally purchased with the controller. These are available on Amazon, Ebay, or hundreds of sources China direct.

Suggest you always replace the controller first - to see if you still need a motor.

Then get the motor -Al
 
Yikes, outdated? None of the displays are actually made by Bafang and I’ve never seen another display with the capabilities of the CA3.

not many others have controllers as reliable and useable through a range of voltages. I run 36v 48v and 52v batts on the same controller.

Above all, learn and have fun.
By outdated I don't mean in features.. their displays are amazing when it comes to customization and features but in the looks department, kind of 1980s dot matrix printer they just don't look modern.

When looking at the Befang screens


They just look nice and modern! Even the S866 or S700 controller screens look nice.

I am having fun learning all this stuff to be honest. I'm really enjoying my Ebike but I wish it had some more power on the hills which could be a controller limitation I think it's a 6 MOSFET controller.
 
I agree that CA3 display is outdated. If it were not for that I would likely have a GMAC in my stable. Love THAT concept. REALLY dislike the CA3. Grin needs to take a time out to update to one of their own, or convert to one of the ones used on Bafang's or maybe a KT systems color display

You already know I'm a big KT controller fan, and the display is generally purchased with the controller. These are available on Amazon, Ebay, or hundreds of sources China direct.

Suggest you always replace the controller first - to see if you still need a motor.

Then get the motor -Al
I did get an email from them saying hopefully this year they will get time to refresh the display as they have been concentrating on the manufacturing part of the business.
 
That one picture you posted looks like a Bafang motor (model/serial numbers). Need to know what the connector on that motor wiring looks like. If you can match it with the controller wiring, you'll save a lot of time over matching the 9 different potential combinations to get them in the right order. Connectors are everything on these conversions. And especially noteworthy is the fact that although similar colors are used, there is NO assurance blue goes to blue or red to red for instance.

There is no doubt about the popularity of the LCD3 display, but you might want to check out the color displays (like the LCD8). Just make sure the plug on the display matches the one on the controller (is that theme starting to become familiar?). There are round AND flat connectors available on the displays....

Controllers with Bafang connectors don't leave you with as many mosfet/max amperage options as ones where you must match the colors on your own. I prefer the ones rated at 35a max as they'll supply anything you need for motors rated up to 1000w, but I would go a little smaller to get one prewired to match my Bafang branded motor.

I've dealt with PSWPower several times. Not real helpful with tech support, but very good if there's an issue with a defective product for instance.
Here's the controller I'm using with the MAC 12T

and another that uses one of the waterproof (Bafang) connectors
 
It's compatible, if you wire the controller properly. How do you do that? You hope KT and Slane use the same motor wiring standard. Usually, they do. Is there a round connector between the motor and controller? That's usually wired identical on motors. You'll likely have to change the gender and match signals on the other sensors.

By upgrading controllers to one with a LCD display, the big change is you get more PAS levels, and you should see a better choice of motor power with five levels, as opposed to three. This is not always true. I own one controller where the three level PAS has three distinct modes, whereas upgrading to the LCD with five levels gets you 5 levels that act the same. However, that wasn't made by KT. KT is pretty dependable.

You won't go any faster. You'll get more info on the display. With a KT LCD3 display and some of their color models, you get speed, trip odometer, odometer, watts, elapsed time, and ambient temperature. For more performance, you need to go from 48 to 52 volts, and that's only about 5-10%.
 
Agree with most, but I would beg to differ on the performance level potential - as would many of Bolton's kit purchasers. If the standard controller is limiting power to 12a or so max, which is NOT that unusual, and you suddenly have everything the battery has available (say 20a or more), you are going to see quite a difference in your ability to climb and/or accelerate.

I will grant the fact you will probably not get anything extra available for top speed. That will be voltage controlled, and I wouldn't look for a LOT of difference 48v vs. 52v. Maybe 3 mph or so. -Al
 
You're right of course. I tend to discount the effect of higher current controller, as a lot of 500W ebikes only have 20A batteries. WIth a good battery, acceleration will be brisker.
 
Is this my motor here? http://eiwol.com/col.jsp?id=132 I was told this motor is made across the street from Befang factory from the dealer. What ever that means LOL but if so these specs are decent and I know values stamped on motors are more for compliance and ratting that the motor can run at 24x7x365 with no issues but can peak up to 750. And if that is the case I would have to have a controller that could provide 750w correct? obviously let's say I install a 1000w controller you could burn out a motor really fast but I am assuming with these controllers you can say max output is 750w and limit the output?
 
Also picture inside the controller. It seems it's a 9 MOSFET controller! Sorry I thought it was 6
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20201220_201123811.jpg
    PXL_20201220_201123811.jpg
    668.6 KB · Views: 581
sorry another question how can I tell how many amps my battery is rated for? it has 48v 11Ah but there must be a max amperage it can provide right? or is that just a limitation of my controller?
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20201225_180539181.jpg
    PXL_20201225_180539181.jpg
    182.8 KB · Views: 326
  • PXL_20201225_180546805.jpg
    PXL_20201225_180546805.jpg
    252.8 KB · Views: 310
  • PXL_20201225_180552140.jpg
    PXL_20201225_180552140.jpg
    275.8 KB · Views: 320
  • PXL_20201225_180559995.jpg
    PXL_20201225_180559995.jpg
    248.8 KB · Views: 399
I'd suggest PSW Power controller
How is that only $27 USD??

I like the Grin as it would fit into my existing battery pack but their controller screen I'm not a fan of looks wise.. I might just have to get over that look thing to be honest.

My battery mount already has the controller built in so would you normally just replace the battery mount with theirs? or if the space inside these mounts universal and can just put their board inside?
 
Do you have a Bafang G060 motor?
Unless you're going for GMAC or something, I'd replace the internal of your G060 motor.

They had different variants with different internals.. but identical external.

I have no idea what you are saying... this comment is over my head? I can't tell what motor I have. I posted some pictures above and possible link to what I think it is
 
Is this my motor here? http://eiwol.com/col.jsp?id=132 I was told this motor is made across the street from Befang factory from the dealer. What ever that means LOL but if so these specs are decent and I know values stamped on motors are more for compliance and ratting that the motor can run at 24x7x365 with no issues but can peak up to 750. And if that is the case I would have to have a controller that could provide 750w correct? obviously let's say I install a 1000w controller you could burn out a motor really fast but I am assuming with these controllers you can say max output is 750w and limit the output?
I have no idea what motor you have. Maybe a pic of the motor/controller wire connection would help? As far as the rest of your questions, I think you have the idea. That 500w motor will handle 750w or even 1000w for short bursts without smoking it. Just don't push it (or your luck!). That's what I was talking about earlier. Giving it a try with a bigger controller in place may be worth your trouble.

No idea regarding how many watts/amps your battery might be up for either.

For sure the KT controllers can limit the amperage available to the motor.

Common place to mount the KT's is on the down tube. The KT mosfets use the alum. case for a heat sink. Exposed to good airflow, it's REALLY difficult to overheat a KT controller. Assuming there was room to bury it in that battery case, clearly it's going to run quite a bit warmer when you start pushing it.
 
Back