Vado SL 2 Alloy version released

Thank you for interesting findings!

Do you mean "cadence"? The crank rpm?


Please take a tape measure and check the distance from the motor spindle (the center of the crankset) to the top of the saddle (center). This distance should be equal on both bikes. If that distance is different on your other e-bike then you know how much the seat post should be adjusted (give the technician this number).


It is 7.28 Wh/km, not a tragedy at all.


Bear in mind the battery 10% below reduces the assistance, and there is no assistance below 5% battery. I'd say 64 km (40 miles). Will you commute in Turbo or rather in a lower assistance mode?
…….after checking that the crank length is the same on all your bikes. The le length is marked on all cranks.
 
Thank you for interesting findings!

Do you mean "cadence"? The crank rpm?


Please take a tape measure and check the distance from the motor spindle (the center of the crankset) to the top of the saddle (center). This distance should be equal on both bikes. If that distance is different on your other e-bike then you know how much the seat post should be adjusted (give the technician this number).


It is 7.28 Wh/km, not a tragedy at all.


Bear in mind the battery 10% below reduces the assistance, and there is no assistance below 5% battery. I'd say 64 km (40 miles). Will you commute in Turbo or rather in a lower assistance mode?
Yes, meant cadence .

The measurements are the same old / new bike but the handlebar sits higher and thud the right is more upright . Guess that’s why I get this feeling. Anyway will get it adjusted some time soon. Could maybe do it myself but the local bike shop 1 km away is actually pretty good for repairs/ small fixes .
 
…….after checking that the crank length is the same on all your bikes. The le length is marked on all cranks.
Rest assured, it is the same crank length.

The measurements are the same old / new bike but the handlebar sits higher and thud the right is more upright
If the crank length is the same and the saddle height is the same on both e-bikes then you cannot improve anything by manipulating the saddle height. (If the saddle gets higher or lower then you can never pedal efficiently).
It is the Future Shock system at the stem. A non-Specialized store cannot give you any advice how to improve the e-bike geometry as the parts there are proprietary. Specialized can install a longer FS compatible stem. Just saying.
 
btw, SL2 torque specs:

SL2 CRB.png
 
Now the first days with my new SL2 6.0 bike have passed. A few further observations:

Good:
- The motor is notably stronger and more silent than the old one (SL14.0)
- The optimal cadence indicator on the TCU is useful
- More gears on this one compared to the old model are a real plus
- Battery is strong - long rides are possible
- Smoother ride / less bumpy on the road
- Alarm works (but is not very loud). Apple FindMe works too
- Automatic break lights

Could be better:
- MIK system is stupid. This external key to release the bag is not practical unless you want to leave a child seat secured on the rack. Already lost my first key. Racktime was much better,
- The more squared tube where the battery is stored can more easily get scratches from locks. Looks also more bulky than the old model
- Dust is very visible on the type of paint chosen
- Bike feels slightly less agile. I think it's the thicker tires causing this as weight is approx the same for Carbon SL2 and SL1 Aluminium

I like the better pedals I bought. So much more grip and thus can also pedal more with the tip of my feet, generating more power.
 
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Some pictures from a first larger trip - around 50 km alongside the Øresund between Denmark and Sweden to the old royal hunting slot and back (you see it on picture. In the background there is the Baltic Sea and the Swedish coast is visible too). I pumped up the tires a bit more (60 PSI) , so the bike already felt differently, in a nice way. The tire pressure indicated on these wheels is 35-65 PSI. During breaks, I shut down the motor but this somehow caused the app to grey out the ride start/stop button and although it recorded the whole ride, I had no chance to stop the recording and lost it eventually . So there is still room fro improvement in the app but everything else was just perfect. Rode mostly in sport mode and took some hills or strong headwind in turbo mode. Plenty of battery left upon my return (I had the extra battery fitted but it would have worked without it too).

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old royal hunting slot
"castle" :)
A wonderful trip!
During breaks, I shut down the motor but this somehow caused the app to grey out the ride start/stop button and although it recorded the whole ride, I had no chance to stop the recording and lost it eventually .
I hardly ever use the Specialized App but could see the same behaviour on one of my latest trips with Smart Control on. However, there is something to revive the gray button... Oh, I know now. Click it even if it is grey!
 
Some pictures from a first larger trip - around 50 km alongside the Øresund between Denmark and Sweden to the old royal hunting slot and back (you see it on picture. In the background there is the Baltic Sea and the Swedish coast is visible too). I pumped up the tires a bit more (60 PSI) , so the bike already felt differently, in a nice way. The tire pressure indicated on these wheels is 35-65 PSI. During breaks, I shut down the motor but this somehow caused the app to grey out the ride start/stop button and although it recorded the whole ride, I had no chance to stop the recording and lost it eventually . So there is still room fro improvement in the app but everything else was just perfect. Rode mostly in sport mode and took some hills or strong headwind in turbo mode. Plenty of battery left upon my return (I had the extra battery fitted but it would have worked without it too).

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The bike in these pics looks less chunky than I've seen it previously. Looks elegant! Might be the stately home location...
 
I pumped up the tires a bit more (60 PSI) , so the bike already felt differently, in a nice way. The tire pressure indicated on these wheels is 35-65 PSI.
@JustRiding: the pressure of 4+ bar for 47 mm tyres is high. I understand you like the feeling but it not necessarily the best approach.

Please consult Rene Herse Tire Pressure Calculator: It takes the total rider + bike + cargo weight as well as the tyre size and gives the optimum Soft or Firm inflation pressure figures. It is also good to read the associated article to understand why. For one, I inflate the 47 mm tyres on my heavy Vado to a little above 3 bar even if I am a heavy rider (I prefer the Soft setting). 60 psi would be a way too high even for skinny 38 mm tyres!

(The minimum pressure figure on the tyre sidewall is to protect the sidewalls against collapsing, and the max figure is to prevent exploding the tyre).
 
@JustRiding: the pressure of 4+ bar for 47 mm tyres is high. I understand you like the feeling but it not necessarily the best approach.

Please consult Rene Herse Tire Pressure Calculator: It takes the total rider + bike + cargo weight as well as the tyre size and gives the optimum Soft or Firm inflation pressure figures. It is also good to read the associated article to understand why. For one, I inflate the 47 mm tyres on my heavy Vado to a little above 3 bar even if I am a heavy rider (I prefer the Soft setting). 60 psi would be a way too high even for skinny 38 mm tyres!

(The minimum pressure figure on the tyre sidewall is to protect the sidewalls against collapsing, and the max figure is to prevent exploding the tyre).
interesting, thanks for the link
 
interesting, thanks for the link

Inhave a question. My tires' with tubes are labeled 50-80 PSI. I generally use them at 55 psi. The calculator suggests 41-51 PSI. Am I right that going that low would cause problems including snake bite punctures and damaged sidewalls? Would it safe on asphalt to run at less then my current pressure choices?
 
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Inhave a question. My tires' with tubes are labeled 50-80 PSI. I generally use them at 55 psi. The calculator suggests 41-51 PSI. Am I right that going that low would cause problems including snake bite punctures and damaged sidewalls? Would it safe on asphalt to run at less then my current pressure choices?
Unlikely. I'm running at 38 to 42 PSI which is lower than suggested by the manufacturer. Stefan posted that calculator a couple of years ago and I embraced it and I'm glad that I did.
I had previously been running at much higher PSI and to the detriment of my body.
 
Unlikely. I'm running at 38 to 42 PSI which is lower than suggested by the manufacturer. Stefan posted that calculator a couple of years ago and I embraced it and I'm glad that I did.
I had previously been running at much higher PSI and to the detriment of my body.
Thanks. I’ll start experimenting.
 
Inhave a question. My tires' with tubes are labeled 50-80 PSI. I generally use them at 55 psi. The calculator suggests 41-51 PSI. Am I right that going that low would cause problems including snake bite punctures and damaged sidewalls? Would it safe on asphalt to run at less then my current pressure choices?
Let me explain how it looks from the viewpoint of the manufacturer. Very different rubber compounds are used for different models of bicycle tyres. A wired tyre made of hard rubber has its sidewalls prone to crack more easily than a foldable tyre made of a soft rubber compound. Hence, the higher minimum inflation pressure for the former. In the case of the conflict, one must conform to the manufacturers safety limits. If the calculator reads 51 psi for Firm and the minimum is 50 psi, the rider has to choose 50-51 psi and no adverse effects would happen.

It has nothing to do with snake bite puncture, only the sidewall durability. General rule (found in other sources such as Silca) is the rider shall start experimenting at the minimum allowable pressure for given tyre. By the way, what is the model and size of your tyres @BEC111?
 
Let me explain how it looks from the viewpoint of the manufacturer. Very different rubber compounds are used for different models of bicycle tyres. A wired tyre made of hard rubber has its sidewalls prone to crack more easily than a foldable tyre made of soft rubber compound. Hence, the higher minimum inflation pressure for the former. In the case of the conflict, one must conform to the manufacturers safety limits. If the calculator reads 51 psi for Firm and the minimum is 50 psi, the rider has to choose 50-51 psi and no adverse effects would happen.

It has nothing to do with snake bite puncture, only the sidewall durability. General rule (found in other sources such as Silca) is the rider shall start experimenting at the minimum allowable pressure for given tyre. By the way, what is the model and size of your tyres @BEC111?
I’m using Pathfinder Pro 700cX38 tan sidewalls, if that matters, on my Vado SL4 EQ.
 
50-80 psi on the sidewall of the soft rubber, foldable and supple Pathfinder Pro?! Oh man, I cannot understand it at all.
Please set your pressure at 44 psi for the start :) As soon as you feel confident, you can get down to 41 psi for the most rough trails! 51 psi is good for asphalt.

(You even seem not to be a heavy person!)
 
You see, I used to ride Pathfinder Pro 700x38 tubed at 3 bar (44 psi) for some 3 years without any issues, and I do not avoid rough terrain. Meanwhile, I weighed between 200 and 228 lbs. It certainly gives a perspective :)
 
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