Using the manual regenerative braking feature

Hi John,

Yep, Old San Jose road. I'm currently out of the country but when I get home let's see if we can set up a ride with 86! I saw another post of yours that looks like either Grey Whale ranch or Wilder ranch. I find that the stock tires are a bit to slick for my taste on gravel.
Bought an ST2 today and will have in 10 days. Let's ride!
 
Sounds like we have a caravan! Soquel is out of the country but when he gets back and you've taken possession we will make arrangements. What color? White or Matt Black?

Congrats!
 
Sounds like we have a caravan! Soquel is out of the country but when he gets back and you've taken possession we will make arrangements. What color? White or Matt Black?

Congrats!
Black
 
Headshake is common in motorcycling and the reason why manufacturers use steering dampers to remove the natural occurring oscillation that happens when a front wheel is at significant speed and there are imperfections in the road. Not sure how this is resolved on a bicycle. The steering dampers used on motorcycles have a variable effect. In other words they do almost nothing at slower speeds to inhibit the steering assembly shake but gradually slow the back and forth movement as the violence of the back and forth movement increases. I'm wondering if professional cyclists experience this when riding at 50-60km?


Headshake is not common on motorcycles. You hear rare tales of it and many if not most are modified Frankenbikes with non stock suspension setups or high speed custom race bikes. Seldom does a production motorcycle make it for sale that tries to kill it's rider.
And next to no cycles come with steering dampers. Those that are are usually high dollar race/track type bikes and it's for high speed stability more than to counteract a manufactured defect. Headshake shows in prototypes and is engineered out.
 
Headshake is not common on motorcycles. You hear rare tales of it and many if not most are modified Frankenbikes with non stock suspension setups or high speed custom race bikes. Seldom does a production motorcycle make it for sale that tries to kill it's rider.
And next to no cycles come with steering dampers. Those that are are usually high dollar race/track type bikes and it's for high speed stability more than to counteract a manufactured defect. Headshake shows in prototypes and is engineered out.
What motorcycle do you ride? Most of the high end sport bikes I've ridden have had some level of headshake, or tank slapping as it is called. I've added steering dampers on my bikes to resolve this issue. Today, most high speed sport bikes contain built in steering dampers to eliminate the problem.
 
What motorcycle do you ride? Most of the high end sport bikes I've ridden have had some level of headshake, or tank slapping as it is called. I've added steering dampers on my bikes to resolve this issue. Today, most high speed sport bikes contain built in steering dampers to eliminate the problem.


No, sorry, they don't. List the bikes that come with a damper and lets see how long that list is.

I currently ride a DRZ 400E motard and XR350 dual sport. Last sport bike was a Honda VTR1000 Superhawk. I've owned 19 bikes and ive not experienced head shake. Ever. Nor a tank slapper, which is headshake at 10/10 and usually results in going down. ;)
 
No, sorry, they don't. List the bikes that come with a damper and lets see how long that list is.

I currently ride a DRZ 400E motard and XR350 dual sport. Last sport bike was a Honda VTR1000 Superhawk. I've owned 19 bikes and ive not experienced head shake. Ever. Nor a tank slapper, which is headshake at 10/10 and usually results in going down. ;)
My BMW S1000R has a built in steering damper as does the new Yamaha R1. My old Kawasaki Concours had a steering damper. Not sure we live in the same motorcycle world.
 
Hello everyone, I'm a relatively new ST2 rider and have really enjoyed my bike for the 3 months that I have owned it. Great machine.

I really only have one question.... I have a good 11 mile climb that is basically right out my driveway. I make the top with about 50% charge left using a customized setting. For the ride down, my hope is to utilize the manual regenerative braking turned way up to both manage my speed without braking as well as recharge my battery. I do manage to get a bit of a charge but not what I would expect on an 11 mile, 35-45 mile per hour descent. I turn the re-gen all the way up. Doesn't seem to curtail my speed as much as I would think. Still maintain 35mph easily. Also, when I hit a flat spot and start peddling my understanding is that it should switch off the manual setting but it doesn't unless I do it manually by depressing the controls. That works, but so should peddling right?

Anyhow next trip I will log the regeneration % carefully and let you all know.

Love the bike though, this is the only thing that has me confused.

Thanks!
Soquel
Are you holding - for 3 seconds then tapping ---- to bring up all the bars.
 
My BMW S1000R has a built in steering damper as does the new Yamaha R1. My old Kawasaki Concours had a steering damper. Not sure we live in the same motorcycle world.


Agreed, I live in the real world. Try a list. Those are two extreme superbikes (170+hp) and a super heavy full dressed tourer. Anybody can look at bikes and SEE that those are exceptions and that 99% of motorcycles doin't have steering dampers. (or experience head shake).
 
Agreed, I live in the real world. Try a list. Those are two extreme superbikes (170+hp) and a super heavy full dressed tourer. Anybody can look at bikes and SEE that those are exceptions and that 99% of motorcycles doin't have steering dampers. (or experience head shake).
More and more vendors are including dampers in their bikes as standard equipment:

On motorcycles[edit]
Sport bikes have a short wheelbase and an aggressive steering geometry to provide the ability to make very quick changes in direction. This has the harmful side-effect of making the bike less stable, more prone to feedback from uneven road surfaces, and more difficult to control.[1] If the front wheel significantly deviates from the direction of travel when it touches down, it may cause an unwanted wobble. Steering dampers are factory installed on some high-end sport motorcycles and fitted to most contemporary racing bikes to counter these behaviours. Steering dampers are also mounted to off-road motorcycles such as motocross bikes.[2] A damper helps keep the bike tracking straight over difficult terrain such as ruts, rocks, and sand, and also smooths out jolts through the handlebars at the end of jumps. They also reduce arm fatigue by reducing the effort to control the handlebars.


Rotary motorcycle steering damper (centre left)
On motorcycles, one end of the damper is mounted to the steering yoke or triple tree, the other to the frame. Two main types are linear and rotary. Linear dampers resemble a telescoping shock absorber and operate in a similar manner. They can be aligned either longitudinally and to one side of the steering, or transversely across the bike. Rotary dampers resemble small boxes and operate via a rotating pivot. They are mounted coaxially with the steering axis and are typically located on top of the steering head. An electronically variable damper uses a rotary damper with hydraulic fluid that flows freely at low speeds, allowing easy turning, while restricting flow at higher speeds when more damping is necessary, as determined by the engine control unit.[1]

For motorcycles with sidecars, especially for motorcycles which have been retrofitted with a sidecar and where the front wheel geometry, or trail, has not been adjusted for use with a sidecar, a steering damper is beneficial. This prevents low speed wobble which may occur in the lower speed range of about 13 to 20 mph. In older motorcycles adjustable friction dampers had been routinely installed. Hydraulically operated steering dampers may be retrofitted. In some jurisdictions, the installation and operation of a steering damper must be inspected by an expert or examiner and must be entered in the vehicle papers.[3]
 
Hi Jed,

I am holding for 3 secs. I was questioning the idea that the manual regen should stop when pedaling starts or the brakes are applied... am I wrong there?

It is very much possible to maintain 20sih speeds during your long descent and do substantial recoup.
During the early phases of descent, if you engage one or two bars of regen, the bike will slow down.
If you wait for the bike to reach 30ish mph and then engage regen, it won't work.

11 mile descent should give you 3-5% back and save your rotors/ calipers wear tear.
 
My BMW S1000R has a built in steering damper as does the new Yamaha R1. My old Kawasaki Concours had a steering damper. Not sure we live in the same motorcycle world.
:Hey there 86 and Kicking and John from Soquel. I live in Pleasure Point and ride to the Westside each day to work. I have about 1400 miles this summer on my bike. I would be nice to say hi over a cup of coffee at Peet's or my favorite Verve. Let me know if you are up for that. I would have to show up a bit early to get to work on time. I have to leave at about 730 AM to get to work "with out sweating". -Anthony
 
:Hey there 86 and Kicking and John from Soquel. I live in Pleasure Point and ride to the Westside each day to work. I have about 1400 miles this summer on my bike. I would be nice to say hi over a cup of coffee at Peet's or my favorite Verve. Let me know if you are up for that. I would have to show up a bit early to get to work on time. I have to leave at about 730 AM to get to work "with out sweating". -Anthony
Anthony: Great, I ride very early each day and can meet you early at either place. Taking my grandson to Bouchon in Yountville for my anniversary tomorrow but Friday or the weekend works for me. Just pick a day and time and I'll be there.
 
Hi Jed,

I am holding for 3 secs. I was questioning the idea that the manual re-gen should stop when pedaling starts or the brakes are applied... am I wrong there?
Yes it stays on so you can add energy. Manual re-gen shuts off automatically if you stop then go or get really slow. If i have a strong tail wind and am on a flat trail I may regenerate at one or two bars and pedal along charging my battery. Most bike trails have speed limits of 15mph.
 
More and more vendors are including dampers in their bikes as standard equipment:

On motorcycles[edit]
Sport bikes have a short wheelbase and an aggressive steering geometry to provide the ability to make very quick changes in direction. This has the harmful side-effect of making the bike less stable, more prone to feedback from uneven road surfaces, and more difficult to control.[1] If the front wheel significantly deviates from the direction of travel when it touches down, it may cause an unwanted wobble. Steering dampers are factory installed on some high-end sport motorcycles and fitted to most contemporary racing bikes to counter these behaviours. Steering dampers are also mounted to off-road motorcycles such as motocross bikes.[2] A damper helps keep the bike tracking straight over difficult terrain such as ruts, rocks, and sand, and also smooths out jolts through the handlebars at the end of jumps. They also reduce arm fatigue by reducing the effort to control the handlebars.


Rotary motorcycle steering damper (centre left)
On motorcycles, one end of the damper is mounted to the steering yoke or triple tree, the other to the frame. Two main types are linear and rotary. Linear dampers resemble a telescoping shock absorber and operate in a similar manner. They can be aligned either longitudinally and to one side of the steering, or transversely across the bike. Rotary dampers resemble small boxes and operate via a rotating pivot. They are mounted coaxially with the steering axis and are typically located on top of the steering head. An electronically variable damper uses a rotary damper with hydraulic fluid that flows freely at low speeds, allowing easy turning, while restricting flow at higher speeds when more damping is necessary, as determined by the engine control unit.[1]

For motorcycles with sidecars, especially for motorcycles which have been retrofitted with a sidecar and where the front wheel geometry, or trail, has not been adjusted for use with a sidecar, a steering damper is beneficial. This prevents low speed wobble which may occur in the lower speed range of about 13 to 20 mph. In older motorcycles adjustable friction dampers had been routinely installed. Hydraulically operated steering dampers may be retrofitted. In some jurisdictions, the installation and operation of a steering damper must be inspected by an expert or examiner and must be entered in the vehicle papers.[3]


Ok thanks for the explanation. Doesn't change the fact that 99% of motorcycles DO NOT COME WITH STEERING DAMPERS........ ;)
 
Ok thanks for the explanation. Doesn't change the fact that 99% of motorcycles DO NOT COME WITH STEERING DAMPERS........ ;)

You point out the exceptions.................... and what motocross bikes come with dampers? Can't think of any of the Japanese bikes. Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki. ????
I don't disagree that a FEW motorcycles come with dampers. Or how they work. Or that they are needed on some bikes.
Just that it's common.................... it ain't.
 
You point out the exceptions.................... and what motocross bikes come with dampers? Can't think of any of the Japanese bikes. Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki. ????
I don't disagree that a FEW motorcycles come with dampers. Or how they work. Or that they are needed on some bikes.
Just that it's common.................... it ain't.
We agree but I believe that dampers will continue to see grow in oem equipment.
 
11 mile descent should give you 3-5% back and save your rotors/ calipers wear tear.
Following this same logic, I've increased the setting for regeneration while braking to the maximum setting. I.e. Why not recover as much energy as possible during braking while minimizing the wear and tear on the braking system? However, I am now noticing some creaking when transitioning from power delivery to power recovery which I suspect is coming from the spokes rubbing against each other. I think the reversal of torque on the wheel reverses the forces through the spokes (i.e. some spokes push, some pull depending on the direction of the torque), and I'm now questioning whether I am trading brake wear and tear for rim & spoke wear and tear, especially where the spokes are attached to the rim.
 
Why not recover as much energy as possible during braking while minimizing the wear and tear on the braking system?

The controller is designed to output 25A continuous, but in recoup mode, it's limited to 15A to save itself from overheating.
Bikes don't have the same rolling momentum as cars and I suspect that is one of reasons for that amperage discrepancy.
 
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