Upgrading to a BBSHD on a BBS02 based e bike

I only use the throttle to get the bike rolling (due to my weak left leg.). I normally ride in PAS 1 & 2, with PAS 3 very rarely for big hills, and prefer to ride around 13-16mph.

Original rear cog was 26t and front sprocket was 34t. I couldn’t possibly keep up with the pedal cadence at road speeds, so I replaced the front sprocket with a 46t, then a 52t. Even with that, I’m pedaling too fast at 16-18mph to keep it up for long.

If I am using unlimited throttle, top speed could be as high as it’s safe, but it not a big concern as I’m not going to use it much. But I’m coming off multiple Honda Sport Touring and Adventure type motorcycles so no matter how fast it goes, it’s not much in comparison.
I would stick to 18t based on your calculations that puts you at 15 mph at 60rpm in 3rd gear. The BBSHD will throttle well past that if needed but going much smaller with the rear cog will start lugging it in 1st gear. Being that the motor is cadence based, it will always want to keep you going past your comfort zone unless you program the assist to drop off at the correct motor speed that correlates to the desired comfort zone.

There are threads on this subforum that go into great detail regarding BBSHD PAS settings. Thanks to @Gionnirocket and @AHicks
 
There is no single one best set of settings, but I strongly recommend you invest in the tools necessary to change the factory settings on your BBSHD.
I already ordered the programming cable, it should be here next week. I’m looking forward to playing with it.
 
it will always want to keep you going past your comfort zone unless you program the assist to drop off at the correct motor speed that correlates to the desired comfort zone.
I hope to program a max speed and % of assistance at each of the five PAS levels. PAS 1 at 11mph, PAS2 at 13mph, PAS3 at 15mph, PAS4 at 17mph, and full throttle at PAS5. I’m fairly certain from everything I’ve been reading that this is possible?
 
I would stick to 18t based on your calculations that puts you at 15 mph at 60rpm in 3rd gear. The BBSHD will throttle well past that if needed but going much smaller with the rear cog will start lugging it in 1st gear. Being that the motor is cadence based, it will always want to keep you going past your comfort zone unless you program the assist to drop off at the correct motor speed that correlates to the desired comfort zone.

There are threads on this subforum that go into great detail regarding BBSHD PAS settings. Thanks to @Gionnirocket and @AHicks
Well, based on your recommendation and that of @m@Robertson above, I ended up ordering a 16t rear cog, but they’re so cheap I’ll probably get an 18t cog also.
 
I hope to program a max speed and % of assistance at each of the five PAS levels. PAS 1 at 11mph, PAS2 at 13mph, PAS3 at 15mph, PAS4 at 17mph, and full throttle at PAS5. I’m fairly certain from everything I’ve been reading that this is possible?
Yes just know the speed % value in PAS settings for each PAS level is actually the % of motor speed. ie: a value of 50 means the motor will assist up to half of the motor's max speed. This is where using bikecalc.com comes in crazy handy. I used the throttle in first gear to find the speed at which the motor maxed out at, used bikecalc to figure out what cadence rpm that was which I used to determine the BBSHD can spin to about 150rpm give or take. So going back to the speed value of 50: that PAS level will provide assist up to 75rpm cadence.

I suggest when you get to this nitty gritty programming stuff hop on over to the other threads on this subforum about programming
 
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This is where using bikecalc.com comes in crazy handy. I used the throttle in first gear to find the speed at which the motor maxed out at, used bikecalc to figure out what cadence rpm that was which I used to determine the BBSHD can spin to about 150rpm give or take. So going back to the speed value of 50: that PAS level will provide assist up to 75rpm cadence.
Awesome, thanks.

Forgive my ignorance, but what is skid patch, and what constitutes an ambidextrous one? I’ve honestly never heard these terms in reference to bikes.
 
Awesome, thanks.

Forgive my ignorance, but what is skid patch, and what constitutes an ambidextrous one? I’ve honestly never heard these terms in reference to bikes.
Don't know. I only use the Speed at Cadence calculator. It's on the left hand side menu bar.

Input your wheel and tire dimensions. Your chainring size and your rear sprocket size.

For the sturmey archer you will need to calculate speeds 1 and 3 on your own and input the equivalent sprocket size.

For example: my 20t rear sprocket I use 26 and 14 for my gears 1 and 3
 
I hope to program a max speed and % of assistance at each of the five PAS levels. PAS 1 at 11mph, PAS2 at 13mph, PAS3 at 15mph, PAS4 at 17mph, and full throttle at PAS5. I’m fairly certain from everything I’ve been reading that this is possible?
Its not going to be anywhere near that cut and dried. You will want to experiment and try a setting, see if it gets you where you want to be and if not try again. Making changes to some settings will have effects on others that are neither documented nor intuitive. All of this 'programming' is 3rd party originated with zero guidance from Bafang so despite the enormous amount of DIY experience out there, there's still an element of 'wtf' involved.

I suggest you start everything by taming down the motor start under both throttle and PAS. Do not touch pedal assist percentages until you stop the motor from starting up hard. Next, get it to stop the instant you stop pedaling, or real close to that (a hair of lag is ok as you can use it as part of a pain-free shift technique). Once you get the motor tamed of its desire to smash your drivetrain, then you can start screwing around with PAS response at X, Y and Z settings and gears.

Having a device that lets you ride, stop, adjust and try again is REALLY helpful. Hopefully your laptop will be portable enough that you can bring it along in a backpack and, for a few test rides, play with settings in real time and see how things go. This will give you the best results the fastest versus keeping the computer at home.

When they first came out, I invested in a Luna Black Box, which replaced my laptop and cable (which never seemed to want to play ball with regard to the plug-and-pray connection to the cable). Have never regretted it. Not only is it powered by the bike, so no booting up, its small and light and easy to ride with. I have six BBSHDs in the garage now so that doesn't hurt with respect to finding that price a good value.
 
Sorry for the broken record. I’m thinking some info gets lost and repeating might help n00bs.
It is much appreciated.

I've looked that sight over and ran the link to run it online and viewed the "Bafang BBSxx Configuration" page.

Forgive my ignorance as I'm not a "tech savvy" individual.

Once the programming cable is properly hooked up and the BBSHD powered up, do all the fields automatically populate with the values for the current configuration, in this case Luna 1000W parameters? Or do they have to be manually entered? (My cable isn't here yet, and I don't have the motor swapped out yet.)
 
You’ll see the current settings.
Thanks. Can pre configured files then be entered, like well established “smooth” files, or do the parameters each have to be individually entered/ altered?
 
When you first connect up your USB cable to your motor you it should load up the program grid.
You will have to select "Read" on the screen to see your existing settings of your motor.
BEFORE CHANGING ANYTHING WRITE DOWN ALL YOUR EXISTING SETTINGS SO IF SOMETHING GETS OUT OF WHACK YOU CAN ALWAYS GO BACK.
After any changes you make you have to select "Write" and it will reprogram your original settings to those you changed them to.
Not sure you can cut and paste changes I separately entered mine one at a time on the changes I wanted.
Penoff specs are a great place to start.
 
When you first connect up your USB cable to your motor you it should load up the program grid.
You will have to select "Read" on the screen to see your existing settings of your motor.
BEFORE CHANGING ANYTHING WRITE DOWN ALL YOUR EXISTING SETTINGS SO IF SOMETHING GETS OUT OF WHACK YOU CAN ALWAYS GO BACK.
After any changes you make you have to select "Write" and it will reprogram your original settings to those you changed them to.
Not sure you can cut and paste changes I separately entered mine one at a time on the changes I wanted.
Penoff specs are a great place to start.
Awesome. Thank you. This is pretty basic stuff for many who have been using this method for years, but for us n00bs it’s golden.
 
Sorry for the broken record. I’m thinking some info gets lost and repeating might help n00bs.
hah thats not what I meant :) I built a whole blog so I could link and link and link again. Same issue. If I can make a suggestion: Always provide links with those mentions. I for one didn't save them and wouldn't know how to find them.
 
BEFORE CHANGING ANYTHING WRITE DOWN ALL YOUR EXISTING SETTINGS SO IF SOMETHING GETS OUT OF WHACK YOU CAN ALWAYS GO BACK.
^^^ This is super-critically important.

I use my cell phone camera and take a picture. Then when I find a set I am going to stick with on a given bike, I take a pic of that and archive it in that bike's file section that I keep in Google Drive, where I can access it from anywhere with a cell signal.

Since my Luna tool does not save more than one set of settings, I used to take snaps as I went along too if I felt a need so I could step back one at a time. But nowadays I am just changing one thing at a time so this is not something I do a lot anymore.
 
hah thats not what I meant :) I built a whole blog so I could link and link and link again. Same issue. If I can make a suggestion: Always provide links with those mentions. I for one didn't save them and wouldn't know how to find them.
Great. An assignment. ;)I am so used to using Google I sometimes wonder why I should always take the time to find a link. It’s nice to be helpful but...:rolleyes:
^^^ This is super-critically important.

I use my cell phone camera and take a picture. Then when I find a set I am going to stick with on a given bike, I take a pic of that and archive it in that bike's file section that I keep in Google Drive, where I can access it from anywhere with a cell signal.

Since my Luna tool does not save more than one set of settings, I used to take snaps as I went along too if I felt a need so I could step back one at a time. But nowadays I am just changing one thing at a time so this is not something I do a lot anymore.
Having the .el files and spreadsheets of .el values makes it easy. Especially easy with saved .el files.
18 amps smooth throttle full power PAS 1-9.el
18 amps smooth throttle full power PAS 1-9.el alias
20170613154521_0298
Arboh 1.4.el
Bafang 52V battery fix
BBS02-48vLimitless.el
BBS02-52vLimitless.el
BBS02.el
BBSHD.el
BBSHD@2ndSEPT_18.el
[email protected]
BBSHD48vLimitless.el
BBSHD52vLimitless.el
DefaultProfile.el
em3evbb02.el
Joel_3.1.el
Joels_Limitless.el
JPLabs_Relaxed PAS.el
Karls special.el
Kepler.el
Kickpasbbshd.el
LmtlsLdcrs48V.el
LmtlsLdcrs52V.el
Luna-BBSHD.el
M 2.0_No-Display_4.5.el
Mye_Folding_Bike_2.2.el

Penoff.el
Rix Ryds.el
amps smooth throttle full power PAS 1-9.el
18 amps smooth throttle full power PAS 1-9.el alias
20170613154521_0298
Arboh 1.4.el
Bafang 52V battery fix
BBS02-48vLimitless.el
BBS02-52vLimitless.el
BBS02.el
BBSHD.el
BBSHD@2ndSEPT_18.el

[email protected]
BBSHD48vLimitless.el
BBSHD52vLimitless.el
DefaultProfile.el
em3evbb02.el
Joel_3.1.el
Joels_Limitless.el
JPLabs_Relaxed PAS.el
Karls special.el
Kepler.el
Kickpasbbshd.el
LmtlsLdcrs48V.el
LmtlsLdcrs52V.el
Luna-BBSHD.el
M 2.0_No-Display_4.5.el
Mye_Folding_Bike_2.2.el
Penoff.el
Rix Ryds.el


I’d guess that 20-40% of the thousands of CS emails answered could have been quickly Googled and eliminating any waiting for answers.

please don’t mistake this for anything more than a discussion. When I work from my little phone linking is a PIA. You do a far better job of complete answers.
 
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