Upgraded my brake calipers w/ TRP cable actuated hydraulic disc brakes

[WilliamT]

I just replaced my front brake on my Radwagon with the TRP HY/RY cable hydraulic and to be honest I don't notice any improvements in stopping over my previous setup. I wanted to put them on the back, but the design doesn't allow it to fit right.

My previous setup use the original brakes along with Jagwire Pro MTB compression less cables. With my gear + (2) hub motors + (2) 13 ah batteries + me, my old front brakes could stop the 135 lb cargo bike very quickly without even the assist of the rear.

Both setups felt very good with no mushy feeling in the brake lever. The hydraulics on my mountain bike do stop better than the cable hydraulics but these are pretty close.

The only advantage with cable hydraulic is that I don't need to center the pads. I just put them on and its all set. I just don't think it was worth the $125. I wouldn't buy another one

Getting the $30 Jagwire Pro cables was what improved everything. Before that, brakes felt mushy and stopping power was just average.

My last setup was so good, it took weeks for me to replace with the TRP. I just didn't really need it. Installing it on the front was easy; probably no more than 2 minutes.

I just attached the new brake to the existing adapter on the Radwagon and it worked fine.

 

[mrgold35]

I just finish upgrading both Radrovers with the TRP Spyke pull cable brakes. I went with the Spyke brand for about $55 each on eBay because of cost since I needed to do 2 Radrovers. The biggest pain in the butt was the brake cables Rad Power bikes used. I've had a lot of broken strands at the brake pull and brake caliper areas. I was worried enough to think the cable would actually snap in half if I had an emergency stop at +20 mph.

I thought I had an issue with my front TRP caliper not working properly and causing my motor cut-off to engage and occasional error code 25 (brake failure) on the LCD. The brake handle wouldn't return to the normal position unless I pushed it with my hand after using it. Turned out to be the original Radrover brake cable strands breaking and slowly getting stuffed inside the brake handle. I also upgraded to the Jagwire brand a week after the caliper install and really complemented the TRP brakes very well.

 

[Steve Pierce]

I installed the TRP caliper on the rear wheel of my Radrover about 3 weeks ago. Put about 100 miles on it since. I really can't tell any difference between stock caliper and TRP. Thinking about trying some compression less cables. Maybe that will make a difference

 

[Nova Haibike]

I really can't tell any difference between stock caliper and TRP.

Not surprising, since the HY/RD was never intended to be an upgrade from a mechanical disc on a mountain bike. It was designed for use on road and cyclocross bikes where changing to hydraulic brake levers is not an easy/inexpensive proposition.

 

[mrgold35]

I've notice about the same feel and stopping distances in normal braking with original Rad brakes compared to TRP+Jagwire cable. The main difference I have are:
- shorter emergency stopping distances from 20-0 mph. I can now regulate and slightly lock the rear wheel on paved roads when I REALLY need to stop.
- way less noise in all braking situations
- so far, no adjustments needed after +100 miles

I was adjusting the old brakes several times a month, brake cable strands were breaking, and very loud brake noise occasionally. My emergency stopping with the old brakes felt more trying to stop if your brakes were slightly wet compared to TRP emergency stops.

I'm also +270lbs and I might be pushing the original brakes to their limits work commuting.

 

[Steve Pierce]

Not surprising, since the HY/RD was never intended to be an upgrade from a mechanical disc on a mountain bike. It was designed for use on road and cyclocross bikes where changing to hydraulic brake levers is not an easy/inexpensive proposition.

Guess I didn't do enough research before purchasing. I will not be replacing the front caliper

 

[Lost]

I just finish upgrading both Radrovers with the TRP Spyke pull cable brakes. I went with the Spyke brand for about $55 each on eBay because of cost since I needed to do 2 Radrovers. The biggest pain in the butt was the brake cables Rad Power bikes used. I've had a lot of broken strands at the brake pull and brake caliper areas. I was worried enough to think the cable would actually snap in half if I had an emergency stop at +20 mph.

I thought I had an issue with my front TRP caliper not working properly and causing my motor cut-off to engage and occasional error code 25 (brake failure) on the LCD. The brake handle wouldn't return to the normal position unless I pushed it with my hand after using it. Turned out to be the original Radrover brake cable strands breaking and slowly getting stuffed inside the brake handle. I also upgraded to the Jagwire brand a week after the caliper install and really complemented the TRP brakes very well.

Woah! Glad they don’t make aircraft cables!
I am assuming you just changed the cable, not the sheath?

 

[mrgold35]

Woah! Glad they don’t make aircraft cables!
I am assuming you just changed the cable, not the sheath?

Same sheath, just removed the old wire and inserted the new jagwire. Added new fancy red metal cable end caps once I clipped to length.

 

[Ebikefevercure]

I just added adapters and 203mm discs (right now) with new organic pads. I rode to top speed then braking really really hard I could smell the Supercell's rubber. It not hydraulic but, there is improvement. Instant braking, no delay, wash out only if you don't understand "feathering"... I'm impressed how easy the pads and rotor set in the 5min test. The disc has Avid lasered on. Tektro front adapter, Zeno rear adapter works like a charm. All in $45.... I only needed new pads,... that's how it started....

 

[Ebikefevercure]

Same sheath, just removed the old wire and inserted the new jagwire. Added new fancy red metal cable end caps once I clipped to length.

sounds easy enough, right? was it messy with cable grease?

 

[mrgold35]

sounds easy enough, right? was it messy with cable grease?

The old cable was dry as a bone and I just inserted the new cables the same way. So far, no issues with Jagwire like I did with the old wires.

 

[WilliamT]

So after having to adjust the rear brakes again, I decided to replace the rear the RadWagon brake with Shimano XT hydraulic.



I don't think the original Radwagon adapter fit these brakes so I had to order a different adapter. The length is 1700 mm and I was looking for 1600 mm length. For now I didn't cut the hose but may do it sometime later. I shouldn't loose too much fluid by cutting it 100 mm. The brake comes with an extra set of nipple and bulb if you cut the hose.

Anyways, I went out and tested the brakes. As expected, there is less effort in slowing the bike down, but to be honest I was expecting rear brake locking the wheel. My previous mechanical brakes with compression less cables stopped the same way. Maybe the bike is just too heavy (100+ lbs with the second kit + battery installed). The front mechanical brakes actually stop the bike much faster than the rear. Maybe I can adjust the adapter so the brakes sit closer. I have a washer between the brake and adapter. I probably don't need it.

The reason I went with these brakes is because the cable faces away from the discs. On other hydraulic brakes like the Shimano Zee and Saint, the cable is on the inner part of the brake making it impossible to install with that shield in place. That said, I'm curious how much improvement there would be with 4 piston brakes vs 2 piston.

The brakes came pre-bled so all I had to do was install them. It was no more difficult than installing new grips. Just mount the adapter and brake, have someone squeeze the lever and tighten the brake bolts. Release the lever and now the pads are centered.

It takes more time for me to adjust the pads on the mechanical set. The new brake doesn't have the power cutoff but I still have the front and always stop with both so I'm not concerned.

 

[Nova Haibike]

I don't know if it would make a difference, but Shimano makes a more powerful 4-piston caliper. Regardless, a rear brake is never going to have the same power as a front brake, and locking the rear wheel does not make for faster stopping.

 

[mrgold35]

locking the rear wheel does not make for faster stopping.

Only if you already have good to excellent brakes to begin with on your bike. Both TRP and original rad brakes felt the same in normal slow gradual stops. I really think I can almost emergency stop in the same or a little longer distance with one TRP Spyke brake compared to having both of the originals Rad brakes.

 

[spmckinnon]

I bought a 2018 Radrover in July 2018. I wasn't happy with the brakes, I had to adjust them every few weeks, the stopping power felt lacking, especially with my 4 year old in the rear seat.
I read that the TRP HY/RD were a good upgrade to get the benefits of hydraulics but without having to change the brake levers and potentially losing the engine cut off in the brakes that comes stock with the RadRover.
I installed the rear ( $135 from Amazon, thought that was the cost for the set) and then the front (another $135 + duties and taxes) a few days later. The actuation requires a lot of lever movement. You can't adjust the cable position on the calipers on these except through the barrel adjusters as the internal fluid needs the full actuation of the arm. As a result there's a long lever actuation. This is unfortunate because they look great, they mounted easily and I can tell if I got the actuation dialed in they would be rock solid.

So slightly annoyed and disappointed. Apparently a youtuber makes custom actuation arms to reduce the lever pull distance. I might end up trying this as a last resort. Currently these feel only slightly better than stock. The biggest plus is they don't require constant maintenance and are dead silent.

I also might try upgrading the cables to the Jagwire ones you guys were referring too, this may help, I'm not sure if the stock cables are compression-less. Will keep you guys updated.

 

[benriz]

I just replaced my front brake on my Radwagon with the TRP HY/RY cable hydraulic and to be honest I don't notice any improvements in stopping over my previous setup. I wanted to put them on the back, but the design doesn't allow it to fit right.

My previous setup use the original brakes along with Jagwire Pro MTB compression less cables. With my gear + (2) hub motors + (2) 13 ah batteries + me, my old front brakes could stop the 135 lb cargo bike very quickly without even the assist of the rear.

Both setups felt very good with no mushy feeling in the brake lever. The hydraulics on my mountain bike do stop better than the cable hydraulics but these are pretty close.

The only advantage with cable hydraulic is that I don't need to center the pads. I just put them on and its all set. I just don't think it was worth the $125. I wouldn't buy another one

Getting the $30 Jagwire Pro cables was what improved everything. Before that, brakes felt mushy and stopping power was just average.

My last setup was so good, it took weeks for me to replace with the TRP. I just didn't really need it. Installing it on the front was easy; probably no more than 2 minutes.

I just attached the new brake to the existing adapter on the Radwagon and it worked fine.

I have a radcity and am doing a upgrade to TRP can you tell me which Jagwire Pro cable kit. They have may on Amazon?

 

[mrgold35]

When I did my Radrover, I just purchased the MTB Jagwire cables only from a local bike shop (only one extra long length available). I had to cut the cables to fit and add the brake cable ferrules tips to the cable ends for the front and rear brakes. Made it easy just to pull out the Rad brake cables and insert the Jagwire cable in its place into the existing brake lines.

My Radrover used the the brake anchor similar to "C" in the picture below:

 

[spmckinnon]

When I did my Radrover, I just purchased the MTB Jagwire cables only from a local bike shop (only one extra long length available). I had to cut the cables to fit and add the brake cable ferrules tips to the cable ends for the front and rear brakes. Made it easy just to pull out the Rad brake cables and insert the Jagwire cable in its place into the existing brake lines.

My Radrover used the the brake anchor similar to "C" in the picture below:

How much of a difference did the Jagwire cables make?

 

[mrgold35]

I was always messing with my Rover brakes with the standard set-up. I was making weekly adjustments just to get the right brake feel and stopping power. The original brakes cables did stretch over times and a few strands broke on either ends of the handles and/or calipers. The original brake cables stretched where the hand brake/caliper adjustments were maxed out. I had to pull the slack from the caliper end and re-tighten a few times. I was worried the original cable might snap in half one day if the cable kept on breaking at a couple of strands every few months.

I reduced my adjustments way down after several months with Jagwire+TRP. Maybe once every 4-6 weeks I need to twist the handle or caliper adjust knob out or do 1 or 2 clicks on the caliper brake pad adjustment against the rotor. I haven't noticed any broken strands with Jagwire. No more loud metal screeching noise with the TRP brakes either.

I also need to replace my shift cable with Jagwire because my derailleur makes that "clicking" noise in certain gears and I sometimes need to click twice to change one gear. Adjusting the rear derailleur knob helps for a while. Already pulled the slack from the cable once and that helped the shifting issue for a while.

 

[WilliamT]

I have a radcity and am doing a upgrade to TRP can you tell me which Jagwire Pro cable kit. They have may on Amazon?

You need the pro mountain kit. That give you the flat head cable for your brake levers. Like this white one...

https://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Brak...4&sr=8-8&keywords=jagwire+pro+brake+cable+kit

If you look around, there is a lot of different colors. Just don't get the road one. That has the round top head.