spmckinnon
Member
How many wires does that kit come with? Do I need to order 2 if I want to replace both brake cables?
Upgraded my brake calipers w/ TRP cable actuated hydraulic disc brakes
How many wires does that kit come with? Do I need to order 2 if I want to replace both brake cables?
WilliamT
Active Member
You get 2 wires but one long cable that should be long enough for the front and back.
Rjbur
Member
So are these the ones that would fit a 2018 Radwagon.
https://www.amazon.com/TRP-Hydraulic-Brake-Caliper-Black/dp/B076WP85ZD
I guess I would order 2, right...
https://www.amazon.com/TRP-Hydraulic-Brake-Caliper-Black/dp/B076WP85ZD
I guess I would order 2, right...
WilliamT
Active Member
The TRP will fit on the front but not the rear because the location of the nozzle where you insert the cable sits behind the clear plastic panel.
I ended up getting these (Shimano XT Hydraulic) for the rear
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XKY3MAI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The cable is slightly longer than what I needed but the stopping power is just incredible. You can literally stop the Radwagon fully loaded with equipment with very little effort. They are fully hydraulic so if you want to put them through the cable guides in the frame, you'll have the cut/bleed them. I didn't bother and just put them on my bike and zipped tie them. The bike is long so the length of the cable doesn't really need to be cut. I just disconnected the rear motor cutoff since I already have the front one.
After using the TRPs for a while, I have to say the BB7s feel just as nice, but the TRPs are easier to center. Problem is that the front has never really been the issue. The stock brakes work well with Jagwire cables. Its the rear that's been the problem.
I ended up getting these (Shimano XT Hydraulic) for the rear
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XKY3MAI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The cable is slightly longer than what I needed but the stopping power is just incredible. You can literally stop the Radwagon fully loaded with equipment with very little effort. They are fully hydraulic so if you want to put them through the cable guides in the frame, you'll have the cut/bleed them. I didn't bother and just put them on my bike and zipped tie them. The bike is long so the length of the cable doesn't really need to be cut. I just disconnected the rear motor cutoff since I already have the front one.
After using the TRPs for a while, I have to say the BB7s feel just as nice, but the TRPs are easier to center. Problem is that the front has never really been the issue. The stock brakes work well with Jagwire cables. Its the rear that's been the problem.
Last edited:
Rjbur
Member
If the plastic panel is an issue, can’t we simply trim it or some how adjust the panel to accommodate it.
The Shimano XT look like they are full hydraulic where we have to switch out the break lever. If we do that de we not loose the motor cutoff switch?
I really like the plug and play cable actuated design of the TRP’s, any other options?
How about the Juin Tech R1’s
https://www.amazon.com/JUIN-TECH-Hydraulic-Brake-ST1672/dp/B07JNSB55N
Last edited:
WilliamT
Active Member
I suppose you can trim it, but I think the reason why the OEM brakes don't work well is because of the low quality cable and that's it bent in so many places. I remember accidently putting a shifter cable instead of the brake cable. Because it was much thinner, it slid very well in the cable housing and made stopping very easy. Not that I recommend this, but it show me that too many bends in the cable can hinder braking performance.
With the XT, you will lose the rear motor cutoff switch. You'll still have the front motor cutoff. You don't have to cut any panels. Its literally plug and play. The cable may be a few inches longer than needed but nothing that really needs cutting. Bending of the cable housing isn't a problem with full hydraulics.
On the note of full hydraulic brakes, M355 sets are being sold now with motor cutoff sensors built into the handles. Not sure if they are the same connector as Rad uses though.
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Hydr...e+motor+cutoff&qid=1549577921&sr=8-1-fkmrnull
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Hydr...e+motor+cutoff&qid=1549577921&sr=8-1-fkmrnull
They look like the same connector. Anyone brave enough to try?
I'm really sick of the lousy braking action on my bike, even with the TRP Spykes. I didn't change the cable to Jagwire (my LBS said don't bother) so I don't know if that would make a really big difference.
WilliamT
Active Member
They look like the same connector. Anyone brave enough to try?
I remember someone trying one from Luna Cycles and complained that it was just the hydraulic brakes with the override sensors cables glued to the brake. Are we sure these are not the same? There is no mention of these e-brake levers on the Shimano website.
I have some BBS02 and BBSHD kits and Bafang's override cable has 2 pins where as the Rad brake override has 3 pins.
mrgold35
Well-Known Member
I've been very happy with TRP Spykes+Jagwire cables with my two 2016 Radrovers. I had to do a panic stop at 5:45 am this week when someone backed out of their driveway without looking. The brakes locked up the rear wheel and I started to power slide sideways (I usually brake rear and then front). Had to let off the rear brakes to straighten up a little bit and continue my 20 mph to 5 mph panic stop to avoid the car.
The old Rad brakes never got close to locking the tires and I probably would have gotten extremely close to the car or have to lay it down to avoid the vehicle. The combo has a lot of stopping power with me at +300 lbs in full winter gear and commuter backpack and the rover at +75lbs.
The old Rad brakes never got close to locking the tires and I probably would have gotten extremely close to the car or have to lay it down to avoid the vehicle. The combo has a lot of stopping power with me at +300 lbs in full winter gear and commuter backpack and the rover at +75lbs.
They are definitely going to be pre-existing brakes with the sensors added on. I purchased the non-ebike version of these same brakes in the past to upgrade a bike but ended up selling the bike before the brakes arrived from China.
Given that it doesn't cost much more than the sensor-less brakes, I suppose as long as the adhesive is industrial level it's still worth it. As far as proper connector, I believe I've seen these with various options on Ali.
Edit: Actually I see the brakes sell without the cutoffs for $75 now. Arguable if the extra cost is worth it, but maybe if the connector is right and nobody has reported issues.
Last edited:
spmckinnon
Member
Just wanted to report back, that after using the TRP HY/RD hydraulic brakes for a few months now, I can say they were worth the upgrade.
They require 0 maintenance and are stopping the bike and me (180lbs) really well. They are also dead quiet if you keep your discs and brake pads clean.
Highly recommend if you want hydraulics but don't want to replace your brake levers with power cut off.
They require 0 maintenance and are stopping the bike and me (180lbs) really well. They are also dead quiet if you keep your discs and brake pads clean.
Highly recommend if you want hydraulics but don't want to replace your brake levers with power cut off.
You mentioned being disappointed with the pull distance in an earlier post. I don't know if you've seen by now, but short pull arms are available on Amazon now https://www.amazon.com/JJBP-Short-P...QVJCQSBG11S&psc=1&refRID=H6J4J6TRQQVJCQSBG11S
I would be curious to hear from someone who's tried both Hy/rd and higher quality dual-piston calipers like Spyres. I'm sure the Hy/rd are an improvement from stock, but my brain is saying you'll still have the issue of cable flex compared to full hydraulic. And if that's true, I wonder if compressionless housings are the higher priority upgrade.
spmckinnon
Member
Yeah I was eyeing these and I may still get them. When its just me on the bike going downhill or on flats, I'm stopping sufficiently but when I have the child seat and my kid onboard(another 45lbs) I feel like I need the extra stopping power. Nice to see them on Amazon. I was also considering getting the higher end cables but heard it might not be worth it.
fj2u
New Member
I too am looking to overhaul the brakes on my 2018 RR.
Curious... why are folks using the TRP HY/RD brakes on their RR; aren't they mean to be used on road bikes? Would the TRP Spykes be more appropriate for the RR?
https://trpcycling.com/product/spyke/
https://trpcycling.com/product/hyrd/
Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
Curious... why are folks using the TRP HY/RD brakes on their RR; aren't they mean to be used on road bikes? Would the TRP Spykes be more appropriate for the RR?
https://trpcycling.com/product/spyke/
https://trpcycling.com/product/hyrd/
Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
spmckinnon
Member
The HY/RD's are a nice upgrade for the Radrover because then you get hydraulic braking without losing the built in engine cut off sensors in the stock brake levers. The HY/RD's are cable actuated but use hydraulic fluid, you just bolt them onto your rear frame using your existing cables.
The spyke's are a nice upgrade but they are mechanical.
spmckinnon
Member
Not yet, I've been close to pulling the trigger but I'm in Canada so the cost is slightly higher for me, making it a harder decision (conversion rate/import fees/longer shipping time).
I'm waiting to see others experiences with the short throw adapters.
thatdude902
Active Member
Upgraded my Radrover to Shimano M355 hydraulics last week. Bought a brake bleed kit & some new "insert & olive" to route the hydraulic hose through the frame. Ordered some brake cutoff sensors but they are not here yet. I might just installed one for the right lever. I like being able to start the throttle while holding on the the left brake lever. It's much easier to get going uphill from a stop.
The brakes are now rock solid, so much easier to modulate the pressure with just one or two fingers. While waiting for the cutoff sensors, I've been riding without any and it's no different. Who the heck keeps pedaling or hold the throttle open while braking anyway.
The brakes are now rock solid, so much easier to modulate the pressure with just one or two fingers. While waiting for the cutoff sensors, I've been riding without any and it's no different. Who the heck keeps pedaling or hold the throttle open while braking anyway.
spmckinnon
Member
Nice work, can you share of photo of how they fit/integrate on the handlebars?
