Upgrade fat bike 48V 750W hub motor rear wheel ??

[Mysfit]

Hi,

I have a fat bike 48V 750W BAFANG hub motor rear wheel, i would like to increase speed.
1)At the beginning, i wanted to put 48V 750W BAFANG hub motor front wheel but 750W does not exist for front wheel but only 500W does ! Would it be a good choice to have 750W+500W with 1 or 2 controlers ?
2)Otherwise i can change my hub motor rear wheel from 750W BAFANG to 1000W or 1500W MXUS or others (1000W BAFANG does not worth it) + new controler ?

Is it a good choice to use dual motors on fate bike ?

Hope, you can help me

Cheers,

 

[PedalUma]

Two motors sounds cool. But it is not a good solution. I recall when I thought it would be a cool idea - like 4WD off-road. It would be better to sell your existing rear Bafang wheel and upgrade to a mid-drive. These use the gears of the drivetrain to multiply the motor's efforts. You want any added weight in the middle of the bike. It is like putting the big kid in the middle of the teeter-totter. This will give you the power you want with added stability while at speed. You can also go up and down curbs better.

 

[Mysfit]

Unless you enjoy spoking wheels, changing a motor can get expensive. Buying a motor/wheel is expensive too, I just spoked a fat tire wheel. I should have set up a camera. It spun like a potato chip when I first put on the spokes and I wondered if this was going to be the wheel that would beat me, but within an hour, it was spinning true.

Two motors will go faster than one, but you probably need a second battery. You will need a second controller and unless you want to learn how to ride using two throttles, you need to parallel one throttle into the controllers. For riding on slippery surfaces, some people say you need two throttles. I have done a 26" fat bike 2WD to ride in snow, but didn't like riding in snow and it was better with only one motor for summer. Just for the heck of it though, I bought a front motor for the 20" fat tire and am tinking away with it. Wheel is ready.

More speed? Go to 52V. Maybe a 25A-30A controller. Don't melt anything.

Overvoltage?By keeping my motor maybe the controller and by changing the battery alone ?I do not want to change all the equipments

 

[AHicks]

How much faster are you thinking? 52v will clearly add speed, but not an awful lot, especially on a fatty.

The big direct drive motors may be faster, but they are gutless at lower speeds and pulling away from a stop. Limited climbing power as well. I would say NOT a good plan on a fatty.

Harry's plan for a more capable controller is probably a good one, especially if looking for a good place to start. If your battery is up for it, a bigger controller (35 amp?) could send 12-1500 watts to your 750w motor for a big (very noticeable) temporary boost, but you'd have to be careful to avoid heating the motor up - especially when climbing.

 

[Mysfit]

How much faster are you thinking? 52v will clearly add speed, but not an awful lot, especially on a fatty.

The big direct drive motors may be faster, but they are gutless at lower speeds and pulling away from a stop. Limited climbing power as well. I would say NOT a good plan on a fatty.

Harry's plan for a more capable controller is probably a good one, especially if looking for a good place to start. If your battery is up for it, a bigger controller (35 amp?) could send 12-1500 watts to your 750w motor for a big (very noticeable) temporary boost, but you'd have to be careful to avoid heating the motor up - especially when climbing.

My speed now is around 40/42km/h which is normal for this hub motor . I wish I have around 50/55 km/h. I know fat are not made for speed.
I live near the ocean , so there are no hills here, it is quiet flat. with forest and sand even i can climb sometimes
Upgrade battery is also planned

So, you advise me to change my controller (i do not know yet what kind of controller i have, i have to check it) without changing my hub motor ?
Any references ?

If I change controller then it will also mean a compatible lcd is required. My Lcd display is a KT LCD03.

Cheers

 

[linklemming]

Im assuming your 48V 750W Fat Bike motor is the G60. Other than power, your speed is limited by the KV rating of the motor (rpm/volt). Adding a front motor wont fix this.

This motor can be simulated with the Grin Motor Simulator
https://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html

Using this simulator at 48V yields around 43km/h which matches your observation.

Upgrading to 52V yields around 44.5km/h.

You could go with a controller like the grin phaserunner which has field weakening. I am using this controller with a 52V GMAC 10t motor and was able to up the speed from 28mph to about 36mph using 10 amps of field weakening. That being said, you will be pushing ALOT of power at this speed, my system is usually doing 1500watts at 36mph.

You can go with a mid-drive as pedaluma has mentioned. The BBSHD which he has could output 1500watts and could reach the speeds you desire. Just note that his claim of the mid-drive multiplying the motor effort is actually false at the higher speeds you desire. A 42t front chainring running a 11t rear sprocket actually has a 42/11(3.8) motor torque reduction. You would likely go with a bigger front chainring so this would be even worse. That being said, 1500W output will overcome this.

Your going to need a beefy battery to handle 1500W

 

[Mysfit]

so what bike do you have?

Why is it so important ??

 

[PedalUma]

for example, "750W bafang" doesn't tell us the whole picture.

Timpo,
I have found that someone for example looking for a charger will not give the serial number, details, or a photo of the bike. Or want to talk about where they got it. I wonder why that is? No need to reply. This is rhetorical. But, I do not want to be helpful it there is not a showing of the cards. You have good instincts.
What is the serial number of this bike?
Where and when did you get it?
Attach a photo.

 

[PedalUma]

Well I don't need to know OP's bike's serial # or where they got it from, et cetera.
But knowing which bike we're talking about definitely helps.

We don't even know which kind of bike we're talking about right now.

Out of hundreds (perhaps thousands) of different kinds of fat ebikes that are Bafang powered, we're trying to give non-specific advice?
That really didn't make sense to me, and frankly I found it very hard to give any advice or ideas.

People with stolen bikes will search for information but will not give specific information.

 

[AHicks]

My speed now is around 40/42km/h which is normal for this hub motor . I wish I have around 50/55 km/h. I know fat are not made for speed.
I live near the ocean , so there are no hills here, it is quiet flat. with forest and sand even i can climb sometimes
Upgrade battery is also planned

So, you advise me to change my controller (i do not know yet what kind of controller i have, i have to check it) without changing my hub motor ?
Any references ?

If I change controller then it will also mean a compatible lcd is required. My Lcd display is a KT LCD03.

Cheers

I can tell you that an LCD3 display only works with a KT controller. If you're bike came supplied with a KT controller, that makes it a pretty unusual bike. I didn't think any of the OEM's were using them.

From there, I agree with Harry's notes above. We'll need more info to proceed much further. -Al

 

[Mike_V]

Just ride, and enjoy mysfit. Have some fun
If it ain't broke . . .
Your GHM (motor) won't go any faster because of the way it's manufactured by Bafang,
the windings.

 

[Mysfit]

Im assuming your 48V 750W Fat Bike motor is the G60. Other than power, your speed is limited by the KV rating of the motor (rpm/volt). Adding a front motor wont fix this.

This motor can be simulated with the Grin Motor Simulator
https://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html

Using this simulator at 48V yields around 43km/h which matches your observation.

Upgrading to 52V yields around 44.5km/h.

You could go with a controller like the grin phaserunner which has field weakening. I am using this controller with a 52V GMAC 10t motor and was able to up the speed from 28mph to about 36mph using 10 amps of field weakening. That being said, you will be pushing ALOT of power at this speed, my system is usually doing 1500watts at 36mph.

You can go with a mid-drive as pedaluma has mentioned. The BBSHD which he has could output 1500watts and could reach the speeds you desire. Just note that his claim of the mid-drive multiplying the motor effort is actually false at the higher speeds you desire. A 42t front chainring running a 11t rear sprocket actually has a 42/11(3.8) motor torque reduction. You would likely go with a bigger front chainring so this would be even worse. That being said, 1500W output will overcome this.

Your going to need a beefy battery to handle 1500W

Thank you so much for your detailed reply. I did not know this kind of controllers......I am going to dig it even if it is not very cheap but why not.

Please, note that my bike is not stolen !!!What a crazy idea !!But, think what you want .I am not here to be insulted or what do I know.
I am disappointed with the disproportionate reaction of some of you.

Peace & Love brothers

 

[Daffyh]

Im assuming your 48V 750W Fat Bike motor is the G60. Other than power, your speed is limited by the KV rating of the motor (rpm/volt). Adding a front motor wont fix this.

This motor can be simulated with the Grin Motor Simulator
https://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html

Using this simulator at 48V yields around 43km/h which matches your observation.

Upgrading to 52V yields around 44.5km/h.

You could go with a controller like the grin phaserunner which has field weakening. I am using this controller with a 52V GMAC 10t motor and was able to up the speed from 28mph to about 36mph using 10 amps of field weakening. That being said, you will be pushing ALOT of power at this speed, my system is usually doing 1500watts at 36mph.

You can go with a mid-drive as pedaluma has mentioned. The BBSHD which he has could output 1500watts and could reach the speeds you desire. Just note that his claim of the mid-drive multiplying the motor effort is actually false at the higher speeds you desire. A 42t front chainring running a 11t rear sprocket actually has a 42/11(3.8) motor torque reduction. You would likely go with a bigger front chainring so this would be even worse. That being said, 1500W output will overcome this.

Your going to need a beefy battery to handle 1500W

USE this tool and discover/learn it might save you time and money.

 

[PedalUma]

Send a close photo of the bike upside down right at the middle where the pedals go through. This will help us help you.

 

[kmccune]

Thank you so much for your detailed reply. I did not know this kind of controllers......I am going to dig it even if it is not very cheap but why not.

Please, note that my bike is not stolen !!!What a crazy idea !!But, think what you want .I am not here to be insulted or what do I know.
I am disappointed with the disproportionate reaction of some of you.

Peace & Love brothers

Perhaps you would be better served with an "E-cycle" trying to convert an e-bike into a cheap license-free motorcycle doesn't always turn out well, I hope you wear a helmet at least, crashing at 58 kph will be less survivable than 45 kph( still a nasty wreck)It didn't take me long to realize that a 36 MPH crash on a fattie would involve either the Coroner or at least the "EMT's".
When I changed the "freewheel" on my "fattie" and gave Her a trial run on a slight downgrade, the "feathers started growing" pretty quick on my legs{this is Whitetail Deer country and a collision would probably kill Me while the Deer would walk away with a few bruised ribs} As old "AC" said "Do as thou wilt".

 

[janice1]

You have answered the question I was about to pose. Bafang 48V 750W rear hub motor. My bike is a cruiser style and I really like the frame but seems like a headache to swap out controller etc.

 

[goingfaster#1]

Good morning, can I post a comment? is anybody still on this thread ?

 

[tomjasz]

Limited climbing power as well.

I wish we could move away from making this blanket statement. Recently I've been chasing down cooling mods and a DD with Statoraide and cooling fins will prove our previous opinions as just not accurate. I'm so done with Bafang. But I digress...

 

[AHicks]

I wish we could move away from making this blanket statement. Recently I've been chasing down cooling mods and a DD with Statoraide and cooling fins will prove our previous opinions as just not accurate. I'm so done with Bafang. But I digress...

Tom, I'll be happy to debate that topic anytime you'd like, as long as we are talking 48v batteries. I'm not stupid, realizing perfectly well what is possible with DD on 60v - 72v+ and huge capacity controllers. Put it up anywhere under it's own topic or shoot me a PM. Be happy to participate. One of us might learn something.....

 

[AHicks]

Good morning, can I post a comment? is anybody still on this thread ?

Go for it!