Tweak more top speed on LMT'D?

[glenno]

Anyone every thought of a way to get a little higher pedal assist speed from the LMT'D? At the limit of pedal assistance (28mph) my legs are going around like crazy and my rides do include flats where a little extra would be nice.
Off the top of my head, I think a larger front chain ring would do the trick but I guess the computer would not adjust to this new ratio of front/rear sprockets and incorrectly display speeds, at best. A modification of the computer software might allow pedal assist in excess of 28 mph but that alone wouldn't resolve the pedaling speed issue.
Perhaps I'm being greedy and/or lazy because I am otherwise very happy with the LMT'D performance.
Any thoughts/experience on this issue would be most appreciated.
Glenno

 

[GenXrider]

The chainring will have no factor on the accuracy of the speed. A workaround to get assist faster than 28 mph would be to change the wheel size or speed sensor setting in the display settings so that it reads a lower mph on the LCD than the actual speed, so the bike doesn't know it hits 28 mph and should continue to assist beyond that. I have a Ride1Up with the same display as the LMTD and tested to confirm that it affects that speed reading significantly, although I haven't tried to use assist at a higher speed as a result. I set mine back.

 

[glenno]

Thanks for your replies the reading of which will help me understand the possible solutions to the problem
What I am gathering is that a larger chainring would allow me to reach the maximum assist of 28 mph with a slower cadence. I currently have a 45 tooth front chainring. With a larger 52 tooth ring (without cover) I could pedal beyond 28 mph .without assist to higher speeds at this slower cadence. The LCD would continue to faithfully display speed since it is the rotation of the wheels that is computed into speed.
To gain pedal assistance beyond 28 mph could be done by changing the tire size setting (to a larger tire than 2.75x2.40) or speed sensor setting. However the speed displayed would be incorrect, consistently underestimating the distance travelled for each wheel revolution. This could be overcome by using a GPS speed application on a phone mount.
As I initially stated my question, how can I gain pedal assistance beyond 28 mph and at the same time not have a crazy-fast cadence in doing so. I guess a combination of the two solutions offered would be needed?

 

[glenno]

A quick addition, I purchased my LMT'D last year so I have the torque and cadence sensor setup (I think.) Timpo as you stated it has the 44 tooth chainring. I checked the link you forwarded and see that larger chainrings in two tooth increments are available from 46 to 52. Very helpful, thanks. I think I could manage without the cover? And GenXrider, I will have to look at the display settings to see if I have the option of entering a larger size tire or what speed sensor settings there are to choose from. Thanks again!

 

[GenXrider]

And GenXrider, I will have to look at the display settings to see if I have the option of entering a larger size tire or what speed sensor settings there are to choose from. Thanks again!

You will actually have to put in a "smaller" size tire to have it read a lower speed so that the bike will continue to assist beyond 28 mph.

 

[GenXrider]

A quick addition, I purchased my LMT'D last year so I have the torque and cadence sensor setup (I think.)

I forgot to respond to this. If you got your LMTD last year, it would have a torque sensor. Earlier this year, they switched to a cadence sensor version. They only have one or the other. Rumor is they will be changing back to selling them with torque sensors, although I haven't seen anything definitive. The owner had mentioned they had committed to the cadence sensor for the current ones selling.

The PAS maximum assist speed cannot be adjusted on the R1U KD218 display. It is 28 mph for maximum assist. There's a speed limit setting which only affects "throttle" top assist speed, which has a range of 11 to 28 mph.

The two workarounds I mentioned earlier should do that trick. Some people with the Ride1Up bikes have used those. There's someone with one of the Ride1Up bikes who had mentioned she set her wheel size to 18" and changed her speedometer to show kph instead of mph, and the number shown in kph would be close to the actual mph speed.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Anyone every thought of a way to get a little higher pedal assist speed from the LMT'D? At the limit of pedal assistance (28mph) my legs are going around like crazy and my rides do include flats where a little extra would be nice.
Off the top of my head, I think a larger front chain ring would do the trick but I guess the computer would not adjust to this new ratio of front/rear sprockets and incorrectly display speeds, at best. A modification of the computer software might allow pedal assist in excess of 28 mph but that alone wouldn't resolve the pedaling speed issue.
Perhaps I'm being greedy and/or lazy because I am otherwise very happy with the LMT'D performance.
Any thoughts/experience on this issue would be most appreciated.
Glenno

I changed the ring to a Decker 48T. Bike hits 30.5mph pretty easily.
Modification? The settings go to 31mph.
I've posted the whole thing in Ltd problems forums here. A 50T won't fit.
Yes, it makes a difference.
Over 8% less pedaling speed required.

I forgot to respond to this. If you got your LMTD last year, it would have a torque sensor. Earlier this year, they switched to a cadence sensor version. They only have one or the other. Rumor is they will be changing back to selling them with torque sensors, although I haven't seen anything definitive. The owner had mentioned they had committed to the cadence sensor for the current ones selling.

The PAS maximum assist speed cannot be adjusted on the R1U KD218 display. It is 28 mph for maximum assist. There's a speed limit setting which only affects "throttle" top assist speed, which has a range of 11 to 28 mph.

The two workarounds I mentioned earlier should do that trick. Some people with the Ride1Up bikes have used those. There's someone with one of the Ride1Up bikes who had mentioned she set her wheel size to 18" and changed her speedometer to show kph instead of mph, and the number shown in kph would be close to the actual mph speed.

These incorrect answers are disturbing.
My Ltd's display setting goes to 31mph (See Photo).
I go over 30mph, without throttle using PAS from my TS on a daily basis (on Level 2).
It's completely the other way around. The max (860watts if you watch the display) is for the PAS. You can't pull 500watts with the throttle.
A good twist throttle - like mine, far more sensitive than that thumb thing - will go 20 - 25mph max.
The throttle will give it up if the TS asks for it. This can and does cause a slight lag and the throttle must be let go of. Probably software to keep from exceeding 1000Watts, you might get 1100watts spurt or so with a fresh charge, but that 860 is still going to the PAS.
I'll have to experiment, to see the max current I can use with the throttle. Up; Flat and downhill.
You change your pedal assist speed by increasing your ring gear size. There are cassettes with smaller cogs that will do it as well.
If you pedal less to make the wheel turn faster, while the TS 'senses a specific pressure to create a certain fixed RPM Assist value' at the rear wheel, yes, at the same pedal effort as with a smaller wheel you will be going faster - until the motor thinks it's too hot.
I go up serious hills. I had to drive home on throttle alone recently. The difference was glaring. I had to get a running start and the bike quickly started cutting back power on hills I have no problem with using PAS alone.
...
Why would anyone set anything to come close to what they can have precisely, by simply letting it alone?
Combine metric velocity measurement w/ Imperial wheel circumference to indicate sorta how fast you are going?
A Nostradamus prediction - my friend was like : Hey, he was sorta close. World will too end. It's only a couple zeros off. He predicted BitCoin.
I'd have to be on one to bother figuring out the circumference of 18" (56.57") times 1.60934 (Kph to Mph), while noting the circumference of a 27.5" wheel is 86.39", and thus / 1.60934 = 51.015"; meaning an error of 5.5" per rotation - and or that an 18" wheel, makes 1182 revolutions a mile, so, 1182 x 5.5" = an error of 541' per mile, roughly 10%. Well it was sorta close.
Hey. Just kidding. That made up math sounded good though, huh?
Like "11 - 28 mph" did.

Ever,

Fn'F

 

[GenXrider]

It's completely the other way around. The max (860watts if you watch the display) is for the PAS. You can't pull 500watts with the throttle.
A good twist throttle - like mine, far more sensitive than that thumb thing - will go 20 - 25mph max.
The throttle will give it up if the TS asks for it. This can and does cause a slight lag and the throttle must be let go of.

I'm surprised the LMT'D would have that low of power and speed with throttle only compared to my Ride1Up 700. On my 700, using the KD218 display with the throttle speed limit set to the maximum of 28 mph, it will assist up to 28 mph using throttle only (with PAS set to 0 and not pedaling) if the battery has a good charge. Also, the maximum throttle assistance power will be well in excess of 800 watts (again, PAS 0, no pedaling).

Using PAS on the max with a well charged battery, power will be even higher, reading 999 watts on the KD218 display. And it will assist to 28 mph, regardless of the speed limit setting (that setting only affects the throttle speed limit on the 700).

The workarounds I passed on are only for working around the speed limit cut off for power assist, as some in the Ride1Up group have used.

 

[glenno]

I have not been able to ride since posting this thread so I don't have anything to report.
I did check my maximum speed setting on the display screen which is 31 mph. I assume this means maximum PAS speed, beyond which your legs are on their own. I seem to recall that maximum thumb throttle speed is 21 mph, not sure since I have seldom used that. I will check this out when I next ride since before, the maximum pedal assist speed was 28 mph.
As for the cadence get around for higher PAS speed, I am now understanding that an increase to 48 tooth front chain ring is possible without having to change the length of the chain itself?
Appreciate the thoughtful attention this thread has generated.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

I recently did a rewire, (partially) from the Display input forward.
My previous input was stale data. I tested yesterday, throttle was cranking 900watts. Using the pedals in level 2 alone, 860watts.

Went down and pulled a few 6" Oysters from my spot Wife made some Rockefeller Typical average speed on the display, 30ish. Only a larger ring gear works for me I pedal less at higher speeds. I think it made the bike 'just right'.
Whatever those speculating to the contrary postulate, they are incorrect.
They're wrong about the settings; wrong about the power parameters; wrong about the controller's limitations ... but of course that happens when you are quoting others, without testing in real time.
It's a function of gearing, not electronics. My photos of the display prove it.
Captain Kangaroo say's my display is wrong? Tell it the car next to me at the light that rolls down the window and says: "Hey, you guys ain't supposed to go 35mph. What kind of bike is that?"
I'd like to test more teeth against 44 teeth, head to head. Any San Diego Ltd owners up to that?
I'm into improving my machine.

 

[glenno]

Hey F n'F,
We're you able to use your stock chain guard when you moved up to the 48 tooth Deckas chain ring? If not, where did you find one to fit the larger diameter ring? Your picture shows a guard that looks different than what's on my limited.
Nice looking oysters

 

[EmotionLynx6Pro]

I have a 700 purchased/received in June 2020 as well as a Limited received the first week of this year.

On the Limited, I reset my max top/supported speed to 31, and it feels like it does help me at that speed. I don't go that fast very often. The highest wattage I've ever seen on the display (and I look at it a lot to see what the motor is doing) is 937 watts. 91x watts is more typical of the maximum wattage. These kind of numbers only show up when the battery has a pretty full charge. Otherwise, it maxes out in the 800's or even 700's if the battery is near the 48 volt level.

My 700 hits 999 watts anytime I hit the throttle and have at least 48 volts available. It also feels like it has a lot more strength on take-offs - crossing intersections when the light turns green. The Limited feels pretty anemic crossing intersections. I typically leave the Limited in level three (of three levels) whenever I ride. But it feels reasonably strong when I ask for it to increase speed when already doing 20+ mph. I love the torque sensor over the speed-limit-type cadence sensor. If I could convert the 700 to a torque sensor, I'd do it.

I did a big write-up/comparison of the two earlier this year. Search for it if you'd like.

One day I am going to try an experiment - swapping rear wheels. Then maybe I could see if the Limited motor could feel stronger with a different controller.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

The stock bash-ring was damaged by the chain. A new one was 10 - $15. They come in ten colors and different cut outs, but they were all the same quality, not to my taste.
That Deckas Hi Low ring has proven to be durable and quality. I was surprised. They are so inexpensive.
No the stock bash-ring won't fit.
That BR was custom, USA made of laser-cut billet - unfortunately, I can't find the company now. They made custom rig-gear stuff for BMX. I had to trace them from a British Ebay post.
You're quite observant. That bash-ring was for a 46T, not 48T.
View attachment 105756 There's the stock and the billet BR compared in size View attachment 105757 the old set, View attachment 105758 comparing the new BR/ ring-gear View attachment 105759 the actual clearance when completed, View attachment 105760 how close the bash-guard fit really is. View attachment 105761 You can see here, a 48T is as large as you can go without an offset (note the scant chain/ chain-stay clearance).
Be careful, you start playing with the bottom end.
A lot of folks are better e-bike mechanics than me, but without R1U's photo-intensive education when I inquired and they saw I was serious, I'd've destroyed that $180 torque sensor's hair like wires - the conduits for the brain's signals. No need to get in there just changing the ring-gear, but a great time verify everything is torqued correctly as you leave.
Long-story-short, in the end my problem was the display wires were crush damaged. lol.


Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

I have a 700 purchased/received in June 2020 as well as a Limited received the first week of this year.

On the Limited, I reset my max top/supported speed to 31, and it feels like it does help me at that speed. I don't go that fast very often. The highest wattage I've ever seen on the display (and I look at it a lot to see what the motor is doing) is 937 watts. 91x watts is more typical of the maximum wattage. These kind of numbers only show up when the battery has a pretty full charge. Otherwise, it maxes out in the 800's or even 700's if the battery is near the 48 volt level.

My 700 hits 999 watts anytime I hit the throttle and have at least 48 volts available. It also feels like it has a lot more strength on take-offs - crossing intersections when the light turns green. The Limited feels pretty anemic crossing intersections. I typically leave the Limited in level three (of three levels) whenever I ride. But it feels reasonably strong when I ask for it to increase speed when already doing 20+ mph. I love the torque sensor over the speed-limit-type cadence sensor. If I could convert the 700 to a torque sensor, I'd do it.

I did a big write-up/comparison of the two earlier this year. Search for it if you'd like.

One day I am going to try an experiment - swapping rear wheels. Then maybe I could see if the Limited motor could feel stronger with a different controller.

That's interesting.
https://ride1up.com/product/700-series/
R1U 700 48V Geared Hub Shengyi Motor 60Nm. Nominal rating of 500w) = 10.6A
R1U Ltd 48V Geared Hub MXUS Motor. Nominal rating of 750w. = 15.6A
R1U - and MXUS - provided documents - on this forum - showing this is a "special order 1000Watt Cassette Motor", unavailable to the public.
MXUS advertises this Motor (sans-cassette) as 1000/ 1500watts. MXUS told me it "is too powerful for a cassette".
Again, I've published the entire cut-and-paste conversation.
As 'legal' Hubs go, this one fit's in with Bafang's departure from the market - in a sense.
Both run the 48V22A Lishui, 22A (1056Watts) Controller and 48V14ah Samsung 18650's
-
Considering the identical 750 x 1000watt controller:
1) The Shengyi Motor (nominal rating of 500w) would have to be juiced 150% of capacity to reach 750watts and be on par with the MXUS' normal power output. Right in the perfect range.
2) Shengyi rates that motor at 60Nm. I assume that's "peak" power on a test-bed with Max current available.
2) MXUS certifies R1U's custom XF19C is their '1000Watt' non-cassette only version, created just for R1U in cassette iteration.
You're invited to read my posts showing all the communications with MXUS and R1U.
3) I (sorta) think you're correct. The 22A controllers should (predictably) blast the Shengyi past it's full potential, while petering out providing calories for a much larger MXUS' 'all day consumption'. But uphill, under load the MXUS should destroy the lesser powered, quicker to it's red-line 700 that weighs 62lbs, while the 40% more powerful Ltd weighs 58lbs.
The MXUS, using 1/2 of it's power range is running cool, while the Shengyi is running full Heart Attack mode, so how can a 60Nm rated 500watt motored bike be faster that a 100Nm rated 750watt bike, I ask myself?
Well, the 700 has a HUGE advantage.
Unlike the Ltd's cable entry from the bottom, the 700 is from the side of the frame.
My Ltd became sluggish. R1U said "check the wiring, then, check the wiring, then if all else fails, check the wiring".
Then I had an epiphany, it hit me to check the wiring. Glad I thought of it, I found crush damage to my display signal wires.
Close inspection showed problems in several areas. I spliced, zipped close, hit the pavement, and the machine went 999watts nuts.
I reset the display. Ahhh. There we are: Range improved 25%. Level 3 is ridable (but downshifting being down right dangerous). Too much power. Woo Hooo.
A few months passed, power reduced over time, I began having minor power cut-outs on long hills, then the TS quit.
I throttled home , tore down and went further up that soft line with a magnifying glass.
Same story: Stress from fork turning. More damage. I tore off the soft cover. What a mess.
Short ending: Chopped; soldered; shrunk fit, wrapped, etc. Bike's faster, even better range. Best it's ever worked.
Long ending: After removing the sheathing, micro inspection showed damage to the wires beneath in numerous places. Bright wire was apparent. Magnified, numerous micro-wires were crushed, separated and not conducting. I gorilla-taped the whole soft-wire group against the frame, flush, then around the head-stay and up to my bars. No twist effect problems. No fork head-clamp shoving anything around. No more crush possible and no problems since.
-
Flexing those hard shift/ brake cables grinds the soft wires. The signal-wire bundle's soft outer casing is no match for the hard cables, crunching them together with every turn of the fork.
Crush. Flex back and forth. Then stretch.
Look yourself at R1U's site. You can see the grommet crunched out of place on the Ltd.
Spiral sheathing is useless. The stress point between the frame and cables crushes right between the spirals.
Having inserted my spiral wrapped bundle to various depths (the grommet being useless), the damage was also in various places.
I'm working out a permanent fix, thinking the solution is hard sheathing the signal wires.
So, considering the initial damage happens quickly, and the Ltd's resistance values are quickly a mess, you may be competing in the 'Special Olympics' Class ... like I was.
-
Regarding controllers:
My Ltd's dual 6mm torque arms (plates) and no-expense-spared mods to the entire fastener set allow me to crank 5000Watts without worry.

A larger controller won't fit the Ltd's housing anyhow. Wrong dimensions.
The work's all photo-published in R1U forums - except my 'filing the dropdowns' to perfect the rear alignment. I'll photo-doc that when I'm ready to paint for the 'before/ after' show off.
-
I'm assuming my display wires are damaged in places I couldn't see to splice, and splicing changes resistance.
Only solution for me is ordering a new display, snipping off that flimsy sheath and repairing.
If I don't like the clearance results (likely), I'll drill a hole in the side of the frame - for a correct entry point - chamfering the edges to accommodate the cable without crushing/ stretching in any fork position - short of a 270 degrees spin.
Don't believe me just watch.
-
You ain't alone. A lot of 700 owners singing high anecdotal praises that fly in the face of 'number's logic' - can't be wrong.
A 'consistently reliable machine' is the consensus.
I think that bottom 'cable entry' on the Ltd is a huge part of the problem.
A custom 25Amp (1500Watt) controller in the Ltd's 22A Shell would help a lot too.
The MXUS is starved.
Thanks for the great info.
-
Hey, gotta go. Working on my wheelies in local industrial area.

I am,

F'nF

 

[GenXrider]

I did check my maximum speed setting on the display screen which is 31 mph. I assume this means maximum PAS speed

On my 700, which uses the same KD218 display as the LMTD, the setting "speed limit" is only relevant to throttle assist limit. I mentioned this earlier in the thread. The PAS max is always 28. The speed limit setting came defaulted to 20 mph on my 700, and my throttle would assist to a max 20 mph, and PAS assist to 28 mph. When I changed the speed limit to 28 mph, throttle would then continue providing assist up to 28 mph, with no affect on PAS assist which was always assisting to 28 mph. I don't have a LMTD to compare, but you can test that easily yourself. One thing that is definitely different is that the 700's speed limit setting maximum is 28, so 31 on the LMTD is certainly a little higher.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Hey F n'F,
We're you able to use your stock chain guard when you moved up to the 48 tooth Deckas chain ring? If not, where did you find one to fit the larger diameter ring? Your picture shows a guard that looks different than what's on my limited.
Nice looking oysters

Sorry for not reporting sooner. I'm stuck on stupid on my next build. I found a 46t guard will cover a 48t gear - no problems w/ pants

A larger gear will not only interfere w chainguard, but more shifting would be required (See: Chainstay clearence, last photo).
That means big trouble w/ offsets and readjusting the derailleur to (maybe ) work right - pretty much forget it. 48t is the MAX.

I should make clear: After 31ish mph, yes the drag from the motor's plummeting effifency curve retards any input of any kind, but, getting there and pedaling in the 23 - 26 mph range is greatly enhanced with a 48t Ring.
People will say "Ohh, but I like the exercise" and I agree. I get plenty covering ground faster - than on a boring bike - and constant shifting is not exercise.
Better efficiency does not assume less exercise. Being in the adrenaline factor zone @ 240mph in a Bugatti, now that's exercise!

Works great. An inexpensive upgrade - if you use an economy guard. The Decker 48T - 104 Narrow Wide ring shows no significant wear after a couple thousand more miles.
I bet this would really enhance the (lower powered) 700's.

Can one upgrade the Ltd exceed 31.5mph ?
YES !!!. Install a 29'er wheel. 5% more circumference = 1.575 mph additional.

Ridin' on,

Fn'F

 

[banshee28]

A custom 25Amp (1500Watt) controller in the Ltd's 22A Shell would help a lot too.
The MXUS is starved.

So I am considering the LTM'D and comparing all its power specs to similar bikes. I see this bike is around a "1000W" max based on its components, and real world results (display readings). I like how the MXUS is 100Nm, however it seems like similar bikes use a 25a controller and/or a higher volt battery (52) which allows higher overall power (watts). I am not too concerned with top end speed, as i dont plan to go faster than 28-30, however want as much available Torque and acceleration as possible within this range of components (~750W HUB).

You mentioned a 25a controller would help alot but has anyone completed this mod? For reference, I do have a Sondors fat tire bike I retrofitted with a 750W hub, 52V battery, 35a controller, and it runs great. I guess this LTM'D would not be quiet as powerful, however it would be much lighter, have smaller tires, so for commuting it would still work great for me!

I noticed on one of your threads, you say the stock controller works great as long as there are no wiring issues. Even set at "20a" mode it may have the best performance?

I was comparing these bikes:
1) LMT'D - 750w, 22a controller, 48v battery, 1000 W max
2) Juiced CCX, 750w, 25a controller, 52v battery 1300W max

 

[Bartman28]

I replaced the front sprocket with a 52t, but the new shimano chain seems a little short in the largest rear cog.

 

[banshee28]

I also upgraded the front sprocket on mine, but only went up to a 48T. I think its much better, but I think I read the max is 50. I think you may have the sprocket on the outside of the cranks vs the inside if that makes sense. I did the same on mine and the chain seems to fall off much easier in the lower gears. I need to change this if this is true?

But yea I think your chain is way to short now for that 52T. Why did you choose 52?

 

[Fast n' Furious]

So I am considering the LTM'D and comparing all its power specs to similar bikes. I see this bike is around a "1000W" max based on its components, and real world results (display readings). I like how the MXUS is 100Nm, however it seems like similar bikes use a 25a controller and/or a higher volt battery (52) which allows higher overall power (watts). I am not too concerned with top end speed, as i dont plan to go faster than 28-30, however want as much available Torque and acceleration as possible within this range of components (~750W HUB).

You mentioned a 25a controller would help alot but has anyone completed this mod? For reference, I do have a Sondors fat tire bike I retrofitted with a 750W hub, 52V battery, 35a controller, and it runs great. I guess this LTM'D would not be quiet as powerful, however it would be much lighter, have smaller tires, so for commuting it would still work great for me!

I noticed on one of your threads, you say the stock controller works great as long as there are no wiring issues. Even set at "20a" mode it may have the best performance?

I was comparing these bikes:
1) LMT'D - 750w, 22a controller, 48v battery, 1000 W max
2) Juiced CCX, 750w, 25a controller, 52v battery 1300W max

I'd missed this post. I've evolved my point of view a bit. Still think this MXUS will handle 25amps.
'Wiring issues', yes. The controller is 24awg (best I recollect). From there on it's all 28awg. I had problems with the incoming wires and their JST connectors where a real issue. I installed a Wuxing twist throttle. It ran well, but I had some intermittent issues w/ TS. That had to be the display wires or connector. So I replaced the 26awg with 22awg w/ factory installed JST's. They use them for LED lighting.
I changed the display 5 wire and the throttle 3 wire out for 22awg.
Big difference. No stutters. No off/on gremlin stuff. Power increased - most certainly with the throttle. I decreased the resistance right up to a couple inches from the display and throttle.
If you doubt this effect, research users of Domino throttles on big power bikes. I've seen it noted several times.
Set at 20amps will keep you from thermal overload better. I set controller for max and let the motor do the regulating. But - here's a can of worms - these machines synthesize 'thermal overload' data by extrapolating from other data. At least according to MXUS who told me they can either have TS or thermal overload sensing, not both. I hate to pass on bad info. That's how I read it.
The resistance issue is uber-common. Most Julets and JST's are 26/ 28awg. Increasing resistance 16fold can't be good.
A solder joint done correctly increases resistance in the milliohm range.
The Lm'td pulls more than 1000watts. I get +900 on throttle. The firmware provides up to 60% power on throttle.
How powerful am I ?
I'm selling my Lm'td and all the upgrades at a discount off my legacy costs. Just the Archer wireless shifting is now around $500.
It stays with bike for $200. All the same to me. I get better return parting it out. LOL. But less satisfaction than seeing someone else owning this correctly upgraded, completely reliable bike.
Interested parties should PM me for a parts list.
Love that bike, but I can only have one and I've expanded my horizon to a mid-drive WattWagons titanium CrossTour.
Hey, the Juiced is a nice machine, a bit heavier than a tricked out 56lb Lm'td.
Again, sorry for late response.

Fn'F