Tune it down!

[Hairball]

I finally got my BBSHD loaded with the "Karl's special sauce" program that everyone seems to like.

... What I realized after riding the new program... First of all.. it is fun to ride! But, it is designed for the commuter, not the casual rider who likes to wander casually down the beach riding next to the wife at a safe speed so we don't run over children or sea birds... they don't seem to understand that they will get run over if they don't move!

In Karl's special sauce program, I can get to 20 mph in PAS-1... running in lower gears leaves me spinning in first gear at 10 mph to keep up with the motor... I'm not liking it. I want to go slower!

Can someone direct me to a stock 750 watt program so I can tone this baby down?
I did copy the original stock program before I installed Karl's, but I don't know how to find it.. I'm a mac guy who only bought a used pc laptop only to program these motors, So I am oblivious on how to run windows.

Ideally I would like to have the first 3 PAS set for casual riding and ramp up quickly from 4 to 9 or something along that order for fun.

Thanks

 

[rich c]

Here's a discussion of setting parameters, 16 pages of discussion might give you something. https://electricbike.com/forum/foru...ming/bbshd-programming/4554-bbshd-programming

 

[Trail Cruiser]

I have been tinkering with my program for a while but later decided to match it to other street legal settings (but with higher 750 watts peak output). I used 3 other ebikes as my bench mark (magnum Metro+, Izip Dash, Raleigh Tekoa), all of them class 3. This is the setting that I arrived. If you have 48 volts, just change the current limit to 16 amps.

At the PAS page, I plan to further fine tune the start current to 50% and slow start mode to 7 so it can overboost at startup (so I don't have to use the throttle) on my full suspension BBSHD.

Here's the guide on how to link it to your computer.

https://electricbike-blog.com/2015/06/26/a-hackers-guide-to-programming-the-bbs02/

 

[Hairball]

I have been tinkering with my program for a while but later decided to match it to other street legal settings (but with higher 750 watts peak output). I used 3 other ebikes as my bench mark (magnum Metro+, Izip Dash, Raleigh Tekoa), all of them class 3. This is the setting that I arrived. If you have 48 volts, just change the current limit to 16 amps.


View attachment 25675

At the PAS page, I plan to further fine tune the start current to 50% and slow start mode to 7 so it can overboost at startup (so I don't have to use the throttle) on my full suspension BBSHD.

View attachment 25676

Here's the guide on how to link it to your computer.

https://electricbike-blog.com/2015/06/26/a-hackers-guide-to-programming-the-bbs02/


Why does the Karl's and most of the others Rad, EM3, all recommend 30 on the current amps on the BBSHD?
I have a 52 Volt... should my current amps be 18?

I went to this site and used Lectric cycles Rads settings in "blue"... they seemed the most gentle in the lower PAS settings... It is closer to what I am looking for... just a bit too anemic.

I tried to get fancy on my programming and ended up blowing a controller today, Got a new one on order but the bike rode really well till then... Not sure what I did and I didn't save the old program... Maybe people who don't have a clue should stay away from programming... I thought I had a grasp of the concept... but obviously not.

 

[Trail Cruiser]

Why does the Karl's and most of the others Rad, EM3, all recommend 30 on the current amps on the BBSHD?
I have a 52 Volt... should my current amps be 18?

Since the motor is capable of handling 30 amps, that's where most people want their current limit be, but I feel it is too much draw from the battery and compromise battery range. For maximum range without sacrificing power (still faster than other class 3 ebikes) 14 amps current limit is good enough for me. It allows me to spin (high cadence) at lower assist level.

I went to this site and used Lectric cycles Rads settings in "blue"... they seemed the most gentle in the lower PAS settings... It is closer to what I am looking for... just a bit too anemic.

Just choose the PAS level that's barely enough to assist you at 18-22 mph. That's the level of assist that provides a good compromise between power and range. You may need the throttle once in a while for launching. Remember, you still have to pedal is if you are riding a regular non electric bike.

I tried to get fancy on my programming and ended up blowing a controller today, Got a new one on order but the bike rode really well till then... Not sure what I did and I didn't save the old program... Maybe people who don't have a clue should stay away from programming... I thought I had a grasp of the concept... but obviously not.

There may be a residual charge even if the battery has been removed, however, at one time I forgot to remove the battery while hooked into my computer and it did not blow my controller. There was also a warning stating if you set the slow start mode too low, you might blow the controller.

 

[Hairball]

That is an interesting point about the slow start settings being too low! Thanks!

Well great news... for me anyway... It turns out to not be a blown controller! - Whew!

Yesterday was a maiden voyage on my new build, I put a BBSHD and a 14 volt battery on a 10 year old Specialized Stump Jumper with hydraulic brakes... I needed to glue the cut-off sensor magnets to the handles, I used shoe goo, pretty strong stuff when used in the right application... glueing magnets to the handle is NOT the right application... I lost one magnet off the handle on my trip which sent me peddling the last 10 miles back home when the motor was sensing that my brakes were on... If diagnosed it earlier, I would have been able to disconnect the sensor on that side and powered my way back home... lessoned learned... Now I need to contact Luna and cancel the order for the new controller!