Tire reccomendation

[Nvreloader]

If you have alum rims, can't you use a magnet to see if it sticks ?

 

[PCeBiker]

If you have alum rims, can't you use a magnet to see if it sticks ?

Well Holy s*it !!!

And the magnet doesn't stick between the spokes.
Only at the rim.

I wonder if I ever would've thunk that up on my own ??
Maybe if I smoked a Vado first ?

 

[antboy]

I have a Rize RX that came with 27.5 x2.35 tires and the bike has fenders.. The tires are Kenda knobbies and howl on pavement. I'm looking for a tire that has more of a street tread in the same size that will clear the fenders. I found one set on amazon that's 27.5 x 2.40 but I worry those might rub the fenders

I find Schwalbe Smart Sams are pretty quiet, an

If you can find out if your original tires have a wire bead or not, it would help a lot.

BUT,.. Some tire and rim combinations are a HUGE PITA.



That might be your best bet.

Sometimes you have to heat the tire and soap it up and get two people involved, tools breaking, and a lot of four letter words to get a tire on a rim.

I think that generally that's with smaller tires and narrower rim widths though?

Not sure if it'll work with tubeless, but I've used this hack on a tubed tire and it works

 

[PCeBiker]

Not sure if it'll work with tubeless, but I've used this hack on a tubed tire and it works

That's pretty

I know that I wouldn't have thunk that one up on my own regardless of how many Vados I smoked.

 

[PCeBiker]

One thing I always do is add a bit of air to the tube before installing it in the tire.
It helps prevent the tube from folding and getting pinched.
The tube centers itself better too.

 

[Nvreloader]

Question for you guys,
I have narrow fork stays on the new bike I just got,
it has 26x171" tires on it now. (per info on the tire sidewall).

The space/distance (tire clearance area) between the narrowest stay is 2.500", measured.

The tire sizes list are at 26" x 2.30", (as an example),
IS this the maximum width of the tire, at it's widest dimension
(lugs) or the tire width diameter?

I need to have a slightly wider tire for the soft gravel/sand/DG around here.

Slightly confused about these tire spec's/dimensions etc.
Tia,
Don

 

[m@Robertson]

You could just let the air out of a tire and see what you've got.

^^^ Exactly this!

The whole 'crotched rim' thing is a bit overblown. You can expect almost (!) every rim to have at least some form of depression in the center to allow the bead to be moved to the middle and allow you to get the tire on/off as a result. And its not just wire beads that are affected by this. Folding bead tires have ... beads that fold. But that doesn't mean they stretch. Folding beads are often made with kevlar fibers and as you probably know that is less stretchable than a metal/wire bead. You need a depressed rim center to get even tubeless tires onto a rim.

I would investigate this as noted above... but don't worry about it. Chances are vastly in your favor that your rims will work fine with ANY bead of tire. Also FYI wire bead vs. folding bead just means you can stuff a tire more easily inside your kit and carry it with you. Means nothing with regard to fitment. I mean... if we get really deep into the subject a tubeless-ready tire *might* be a little tighter fit for reasons I won't get into... operating at your level with your machine-made rims, this is not something I would worry about.

here lookit: Old school road bike rims. Crotchless. But also concave. Same benefit.

 

[DDBB]

I did hear back from Rize and they said "the motorX tires will fit"... It's MotoX not "motor" X but yes, I've also read that usually there is no problem fitting a tire that says for crotched rims only regardless of what kind of rims you have. I still think rize was shooting from the hip but oh well

 

[m@Robertson]

Question for you guys,
I have narrow fork stays on the new bike I just got,
it has 26x171" tires on it now. (per info on the tire sidewall).
The space/distance (tire clearance area) between the narrowest stay is 2.500", measured.

Well you have opened up sort of a can of worms here. the answer is No and Maybe all at the same time, with an occasional Yes sprinkled in that you can't count on.

First, the closest you will be able to get is commonly referred to as the casing width. How fat the tire gets but that doesn't count the lugs. Regardless of the label on the tire, casing width will vary depending on the rim inner width. This diagram gives an idea of how that works. So... whatever you think will happen, you won't know until you fit the tire or you have enough experience to know what your measured inner rim width is and how that is likely to shake out with your chosen tire.

As if thats not bad enough, you can't trust the ratings on the side of the tire. Mostly. Imperialist-unit tire sizes tend to be driven by the tire manufacturer's Marketing department more than anything else. For example my 26x4.8 Arisun Big Fatties are really about 4.3" wide. Same with my 26x4.7 Vee Snowshoe XL's. I have an extra-large set of calipers I bought specifically so I can measure tire casing width.

It gets better. When buying tires, it helps to know manufacturer specifics. For instance, Continental tires are notorious for being well under their rated ETRTO size. But they expand as they live on a rim, inflated. Usually increasing only near their ETRTO rating.

wait... ET-whatwhat? ETRTO. Go look up what that stands for I forget. What it is is the EU's industry-standard tire width and rim diameter rating. And the ETRTO really is supposed to (!) show the actual tire casing width. The ETRTO for two tires rated at 26x1.75 from two different manufacturers could be different. Because the Imperialist measurement is unregulated, and the ETRTO is supposedly using a set process.

So even though its an imperfect standard, its less imperfect. ETRTO can be found on a tire sidewall and typically on a tire manufacturer's web site specs.

Use ETRTO... and leave yourself some fudge. I would go up from a 1.75 to a 2.0 to start with and see what happens.

 

[m@Robertson]

oh and also remember that as a tire's width increases, so does its outer diameter. A 20x2.3 tire's outer diameter vs. a 20x3.0 can be enough that the tire no longer fits under the fork., So don't just keep an eye on the fork width.

This pic is me learning this the hard way so you don't have to (the 20x3.0 tire actually fit but with ZERO extra room). Notice how the fork width is just fine. The knobs at 2 o'clock rubbed and I needed to file them down.

 

[Taylor57]

How about a hybrid tire with side knobs around a much smoother center tread for mixed offroad and pavement, respectively?

View attachment 181808
These are my ebike-rated 27.5 x 2.3" Specialized Crossroads Armadillos. The tracks show how the side lugs engage soft surfaces. The "Armadillo" indicates Specialized's highest level of puncture protection.

Alas, only one way to know for sure if they'll rub your fenders.

I can only dream of somebody rubbing my fenders!

 

[PCeBiker]

Another thing that I'm pretty sure is going on, is that the same tire is taller on a wider rim,.. ??

Installing the same tire on a wider rim should increase the overall circumference of the cross section and make a taller wheel ?
Like opening up a hose clamp.

And, I figure the narrower the rim, the more the tire would be inclined to roll sideways with lateral forces like when your cornering?

I figure that a tire can feel and ride in a very different way depending on the rim width?

 

[Nvreloader]

Well you have opened up sort of a can of worms here. the answer is No and Maybe all at the same time, with an occasional Yes sprinkled in that you can't count on.

First, the closest you will be able to get is commonly referred to as the casing width. How fat the tire gets but that doesn't count the lugs. Regardless of the label on the tire, casing width will vary depending on the rim inner width. This diagram gives an idea of how that works. So... whatever you think will happen, you won't know until you fit the tire or you have enough experience to know what your measured inner rim width is and how that is likely to shake out with your chosen tire.

View attachment 181932
As if thats not bad enough, you can't trust the ratings on the side of the tire. Mostly. Imperialist-unit tire sizes tend to be driven by the tire manufacturer's Marketing department more than anything else. For example my 26x4.8 Arisun Big Fatties are really about 4.3" wide. Same with my 26x4.7 Vee Snowshoe XL's. I have an extra-large set of calipers I bought specifically so I can measure tire casing width.

It gets better. When buying tires, it helps to know manufacturer specifics. For instance, Continental tires are notorious for being well under their rated ETRTO size. But they expand as they live on a rim, inflated. Usually increasing only near their ETRTO rating.

wait... ET-what what? ETRTO. Go look up what that stands for I forget. What it is is the EU's industry-standard tire width and rim diameter rating. And the ETRTO really is supposed to (!) show the actual tire casing width. The ETRTO for two tires rated at 26x1.75 from two different manufacturers could be different. Because the Imperialist measurement is unregulated, and the ETRTO is supposedly using a set process.

So even though its an imperfect standard, its less imperfect. ETRTO can be found on a tire sidewall and typically on a tire manufacturer's web site specs.

Use ETRTO... and leave yourself some fudge. I would go up from a 1.75 to a 2.0 to start with and see what happens.

Thanks Matt
Here is some more info right off the tire,
(found it after cleaning the tire real good/muddy).

Tire brand name = Kendra Kwick
Tire size = 26x1.7 > k=879-01> 47-559> to fit HB-575 rim>
E4-88r-002034>12061009>40-65 psi.
This is all the info from the tire sides, and I can NOT understand most of it..
Other info:
tire rim o/s = 1.00" wide
tire thickness/width between lugs = 1.600"
tire lug thickness/width = 1.680"
tire height from edge of rim = 1.460"

I have over 1.5" of tire height space, front & back,
and the narrowest width is 2.500" on the rear and 2.750" on the front stay..

I have a notion to buy a 2.25" tire and a 2.230 tire and put the largest width on the front and narrowest on the rear, since that is my narrowest limitation, this metric stuff throws me for a loop.
Your thoughts and suggestions...
Tia,

 

[m@Robertson]

Another thing that I'm pretty sure is going on, is that the same tire is taller on a wider rim,.. ??

Yes thats right. The common phrase I have heard for a tire that is on a too-narrow rim is a 'light bulb' profile.

And, I figure the narrower the rim, the more the tire would be inclined to roll sideways with lateral forces like when your cornering?

Oh my yes. I decided to try and push that envelope a bit once - and I knew better but tried it anyway - and had exactly that happen. I had a 700c wheel and I tried to go a little bit too gravel-sized on it. Tire was fine on straights and higher speed cornering but I tried a slow dawdling corner at a residential intersection and the fokker folded right over, peeled off the rim and the under-pressure tube went kablooie. No saving that exploded tube and I walked home. This might have been the lesson that finally taught me to always carry a spare tube in addition to just the patch kit.

I figure that a tire can feel and ride in a very different way depending on the rim width?

Maybe. I don't know if I would say "very" differently. Certainly if you go too-wide on the rim (which is one hell of a lot safer than too-narrow) you change the tread profile so the cornering knobs are perhaps now a part of thenormal straight line tire patch.

There is a school of thought on wheel and rim fitment (and I am partial to this thinking) that says its better to go on the wide side for the rim. Move the tire a bit further to the bell shape rather than the round shape. But not too much. You gain tire stability and reduce tire squirm. So long as you don't overdo it, you end up with a more stable platform. But go over the (invisible) line and the tire ends up with less ability to absorb impact, and less cornering control (particularly at lower pressures lke you would find on a singletrtack bike).

 

[m@Robertson]

Here is some more info right off the tire,
(found it after cleaning the tire real good/muddy).

Tire brand name = Kendra Kwick

Kenda. Kendra is a girl who makes naughty movies.

Tire size = 26x1.7 > k=879-01> 47-559> to fit HB-575 rim>

Interesting. 47-559 is commonly used as the ETRTO for 26x1.75... not 1.7. Remember what I said about the loosey-goosey nature of Imperialist tire measurements? here it is again.

E4-88r-002034>12061009>40-65 psi.

All that matters there is 40-65 psi. Keep it closer to 65 psi. That is a COLD pressure number so if you let the tire sit out in the sun after riding it will be well over 65 psi if you measure it. That is normal.

Other info:
tire rim o/s = 1.00" wide

Outside rim width is meaningless for tire compatibility. You have to have the inner rim width which is between the hooks on the rim. And it needs to be in mm.

With that said, a 1" width in mm is 25.4mm. Lets call it 25mm. Thats pretty damn narrow. Figure we lose 6 mm of rim wall/hook at the least, and you are down to a 19mm rim (which sounds about right). Check the Schwalbe tire/rim compatibility chart, or the DT Swiss Tire Pressure and Dimension chart which is the one I prefer to use. On the DT chart, for a 19mm rim, a 2.00 tire is right on the edge of compatibility. But a 2.25 is just a bit past the ragged edge. It seems to me even a 2.00 tire is either compatible, or NOT compatible. You won't know until you pull that tire off and measure the inner width. How wide your forks are aren't the thing you want to care about. ESPECIALLY since now we know your rim is only 25mm wide on the outside. Incidentally, too-narrow rims are typical for storebought bikes. Its most of the reason I go to the trouble of having custom wheels built if I am doing a conversion on a complete bike. The narrow wheels are dealbreakers to me.

I have a notion to buy a 2.25" tire and a 2.230 tire and put the largest width on the front and narrowest on the rear, since that is my narrowest limitation, this metric stuff throws me for a loop.
Your thoughts and suggestions...

With what you are describing, a 2.25 is probably going to be ok. But not by much. If your fork inner blade spacing is 2.50, then that leaves 1/8" of clearance (1/4" divided by two) and that is not a whole lot at all. A 2.0 tire should be safe. I have several tires in my garage that are there covered in dust and slowly dry rotting because I argued myself into buying something that should be a close fit but was just a bit too much. Thats why I suggested a 26x2.0 (aka a 50-559). Err on the safe side, get your money's worth out of the tire and go for the brass ring next time.

 

[Nvreloader]

Thanks Matt
I'll go look for a Hybrid type tire in the 26x2.0 tire, I don't want a heavy knobby on this bike.......
Tia,
Don

 

[PCeBiker]

That is a COLD pressure number so if you let the tire sit out in the sun after riding it will be well over 65 psi if you measure it. That is normal.

I remember checking and setting the air pressure in my car before a trip.

Then the car felt like it was pulling to one side, so I checked the air pressure again, and two tires were WAY Off.

It was winter with snow on the ground, but the sun was shining on left side of my car when I first checked the air pressure.

That made enough of a difference to have my car noticeably pull to one side.

 

[Taylor57]

I remember checking and setting the air pressure in my car before a trip.

Then the car felt like it was pulling to one side, so I checked the air pressure again, and two tires were WAY Off.

It was winter with snow on the ground, but the sun was shining on left side of my car when I first checked the air pressure.

That made enough of a difference to have my car noticeably pull to one side.

Your wheels could also be out of alignment. I make sure my cars are always aligned after getting new tires or hitting something-which my kids tend to do often!

 

[PCeBiker]

Your wheels could also be out of alignment.

My alignment was done, and the car was fine before I set my pressure with two "hot" tires.
Re-doing the air pressure fixed it.

It took me a while to figure out what had happened.
I thought there was something wrong with my pressure gauge.