Thoughts Of An Experienced E-Biker

[Robspace1]

so the answer is no

Wrong. The answer is just what I said it was. They sell various size, shapes and styles from cruiser to rock hard butt floss. Not the answer you wanted? Sorry

 

[Nomad]

There is no right or wrong as to the "proper way" to set up a bike. It's all trial and error and no amount of supposed biking expertise or know how can be used to determine the right posture, handlebar type, seat height or amount of seat cushion to ride on. There is no right way to do it. It's whatever is the most comfortable for the rider. And most people will know when the fun stops and the pain begins. I figured it out real fast after buying a mtb. It soon became a very smooth cruiser. Problem solved. it work great as a mtb

Wrong. The answer is just what I said it was. They sell various size, shapes and styles from cruiser to rock hard butt floss. Not the answer you wanted? Sorry

I just wanted the truth, and I got it

 

[Rich W.]

The truth:

 

[Robspace1]

The truth:
View attachment 144372

None needed. Good padded shorts, comfy Cloud 9, and I go all day. 3 years, same saddle.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

The truth:

Haha! Rich, I still cannot understand how it come the Specialized Bridge Sport, the stock saddle for Vado SL 4 has turned out to be the most comfortable of my bike seats despite of being narrow, long and hard

 

[Mulezen]

I went with a Brooks sometime back about 5k miles ago. I had heard they were uncomfortable at first and found that to be an understatement. After a few hundred miles I switched it for an Ergon which was good. But shame led me to re-try the Brooks and the Ergon is now on my guest ride.
As a less than experienced rider, casual until I sunk $$$ into my Trek, I didn’t give grips, saddles etc. a second thought. I appreciate these general guides to setup such as the recommended wrist angle. I checked my bike after seeing the illustration and found my wrists at the suggested Angle…something I arrived at by trial an error.
I have seen posts here calling Selle AnatomIca as Brooks-like w/o the break-in

 

[Rich W.]

I still have the Rivo Sport that came with my Tero 5 and I’m going to hang on to it. Its a fine seat, I just wasn’t quite ready for it. Probably in another couple hundred miles I’ll try it again. Grips are another story. Hands started going numb again at around 10 miles today (and still had 10 miles to get back to camp) even after adjusting the angle. Ended up doing a lot of finger-trip riding where possible, as I did in my Harley days. Part of it may just be age. When I was younger 50 miles was no big deal and my only ailment was an ear ach on cold mornings. Things have changed, but I’m getting better every day. On the chain ring idea, I agree 4T isnt much of a change but I can do it with all existing stuff at little expense and it will give me a little more top end without sacrificing much in the lowest gear. I have another much more extensive (and expensive) idea but I’ll try this first.

 

[mschwett]

Well, if you got what you wanted after all that then great. Most people can figure it all out on their own pretty fast. I can ride a mile and know what I need to change on the bike to make it a better fit for me…

i’m not sure “most people” can figure it out to a level that allows for long rides without discomfort. i got pretty close, but after 4 or 5 hours was getting the minor but annoying pains described. well worth an hour of my time for an actual professional opinion! the adjustments were in some places quite minor (e.g. moving cleats a bit in various directions) and some slightly more significant.

it’s very difficult when just doing things by the seat of your pants to perceive the interrelationships. you can move the seat forward a bit, and find it more comfortable, but not because it’s right… because the bars are wrong. so then you start tweaking the bars based on the wrong seat position…

 

[kevinmccune]

The truth:
View attachment 144372

Good on toast?

 

[PSm]

A Noob

When I entered the Brave New World of e-bikes in late August 2019, I understood how the e-bike instantly changed my life. An ailing person who could hardly walk, I could suddenly zoom greater and greater distances for exercise, adventures, grocery shopping, and -- the most important of all -- for fun. Even before my ailments developed and manifested their presence, a traditional bike ride was painful for me: Countering headwind or climbing on a bike was no fun; I needed to stop every 5 km for rest. I had no incentive to be on the bike everyday! With the purchase of the first e-bike, I started riding faster, for longer distances, and as frequently as never before!

As a noob with some money, I started buying new e-bikes on the "N+1" principle to end up with 4 very different e-bikes. And, as a noob with some money, I was doing everything to improve what I bought! The number of experiments, new gear, equipment, "improvements" I've done to my e-bikes might fill a decently sized book! And I've been the noob for some three years. Until I changed. After documented 26,000+ km (16,200+ mi) ridden on e-bikes, I think I changed and reached a level of maturity.

Let me describe what I believe in now, and what experiments have brought valuable outcome.

N-1, Or Only Keep The E-Bikes You Actually Ride
If you own several e-bikes, some of them are just gathering the dust. If you choose to ride each of them, the maintenance costs start to mount to an unbearable level. After having determined my real needs, I just reduced the number of my e-bikes from four to just two. I keep a heavy, strong and fast full power e-bike that is priceless for long, demanding trips (especially in the mountains) and a lightweight low power e-bike that I ride on a daily basis, and which has proven to be appropriate for long and fast gravel group rides. Actually, I feel I still own one e-bike too many but it would be hard for me to get rid of either of them!

Use Your E-Bike As Intended By The Maker, Or Do Not Change The Nature Of Your Steed
Disclaimer: I'm only talking of good e-bikes from major bicycle brands.
The big bicycle brand has accumulated decades of experience, and makes e-bikes of a proven geometry and componentry for the intended purpose. "Do not change a bronco into a mule!"

• You have bought a premium commuter e-bike. The bike geometry tells you the e-bike should be ridden in a forward position. What do you do? You think you need to ride in a more upright position; you raise your stem then buy curved handlebars (or Jones H-bars for instance); you are replacing the saddle with the widest and softest saddle you could find. You have changed the very nature of your e-bike. You believe the changes were necessary but surprisingly you still suffer pain in your butt, hand numbness or back aches. So you experiment more and more not to avail really.
• You thought buying a full suspension e-MTB would make your city rides comfortable. Now, you have realised your electric mountain e-bike simply hates city riding! So you swap your off-road tyres for "all-rounders", raise the stem, trim your wide handlebars (ouch!), add a rack and maybe even a kick-stand. You have crippled your mountain-goat to become a cow...
• You thought a road/gravel e-bike was cool. Now, you put a comfortable saddle, a rack/pannier, long fenders, and perhaps a kickstand on your e-bike. Making it even heavier and against its intended purpose.

The issue we all are facing is an universal e-bike does not exist. We are not capable to determine our real needs prior to the purchase, either.

The Stock Components Are Not Necessarily Hopeless
If everyone of us noobs could have just tried riding our first e-bikes without immediately modifying them... I managed to make many unnecessary replacements of stock components on my e-bikes. For instance, it took me almost 3 years to realize the stock Specialized Electrak 2.0 tyres on my Vado 5.0 actually were the best thing, and I should have not replaced them in the first place. Or, it took me more than a year to find out the stock Specialized Bridge Sport saddle on my Vado SL was actually a very good thing that I really didn't need to replace with another seat! To be honest, even the stock grips on my both e-bikes that I keep were quite OK! Why to replace anything just because it is "stock"?

The More I Ride, The More Lightweight I Appreciate
That's why I ride my heavy Vado less and less, giving the preference to Vado SL.

Tyre Inflation Pressure
It is true that increasing tyre pressure makes the e-bike roll easier. On the other hand, the tyres are the ultimate bike suspension, especially for dampening rapid road vibrations. Reducing the tyre inflation to the "sweet point" between the rolling resistance and ride comfort is something I could greatly recommend to anyone!

Extra Suspension, A Worthy Thing?
Oh yes. For most of good e-bikes ridden by the Forum members, a Kinekt 2.1 or RedShift Shock Stop suspension seat-post is certainly a valuable improvement for your rear. On the other hand, installing a suspension stem on an e-bike already equipped in any form of front suspension makes little sense. Any type of the front suspension is made to dampen slow vibration; it is the tyres that flatten the rapid vibration.

Saddle
There is no Saddle Holy Grail. If you have chosen riding in a more upright position, most of your body weight will inevitably rest on your butt. Expect back/spine aches. No comfort saddle can be as soft as an armchair if you need to be pedalling your e-bike. With the riding position more forward, you lighten up your ass. Surprisingly, many aches might have gone. Once you have moved your body position forward, you will notice a seemingly hard and narrow saddle might even become more comfortable, especially if you ride in chamois. A narrower saddle means no chafing on your thighs and axils.

Pedals
Very expensive bikes are delivered without pedals. In most of cases, even expensive e-bikes will be delivered with cheap unimpressive pedals. It is your choice what you do.
I do not want to start yet another holy war with the lovers of "clipless" (who actually clip in). Just want to say good wide platform pedals with traction pins are almost as good as clipless pedals/cleated shoes, and I often ride platform pedals just in sneakers. It is your choice though.

Handlebar grips
As I mentioned before, the stock grips can be in many cases excellent. I'm a great believer in the enhancement called SQlab Innerbarends, which I perceive as one of the greatest inventions for flat handlebars. Innerbarends let me lean forward without hand numbness, be myself more aerodynamic, have perfect access to brake levers and the shifter, and keep my arms closer still retaining a pretty wide handlebars. I spend almost my ride time in the Innerbarends now. Having the Ergon GP2 bar ends available too, I hardly use them now.

Rear-View Mirror, Daytime Lights, And The Helmet
I simply cannot ride without the rear-view mirror. Inexpensive Mirrycle is the type I've used on my all e-bikes. The glass part never broke in any of several Mirrycles I have owned. The secret of the proper Mirrycle set-up is to tighten all screws very strongly. The threaded parts are made of brass there; brass can stand very strong tightening, and you can hear it squeaking when you tighten the screws: it is the proper thing.

Many of EBR Forum members are bitching they cannot switch their daytime lights off. "See and Be Seen". It is for your own safety!

Wearing the helmet goes without saying.

Great write-up of experiences. On my third e-bike, finding that the lighter weight of my latest one provides the greatest joy (for someone that wants to get a lot of exercise). Others might want more power, and ride a bike with a lot of assist or more like a scooter, but that’s not me (most of the time, unless I hit the wall, and just need to make it home!)

 

[fooferdoggie]

Great write-up of experiences. On my third e-bike, finding that the lighter weight of my latest one provides the greatest joy (for someone that wants to get a lot of exercise). Others might want more power, and ride a bike with a lot of assist or more like a scooter, but that’s not me (most of the time, unless I hit the wall, and just need to make it home!)

yes weight makes a big difference. so does tire size. like my bulls with the older bosch motor and 1.5" tires was faster and I coud put out more wats then my trek with the new bosch motor because it has 2.3'" tires and its so much more sluggish. my average watts when down and I had a lower heartrate and burned less calories. I plan on putting smaller tires on it when I wear them out.

 

[Rich W.]

Good on toast?

Probably not. The whole idea seems a little repulsive to me, but I guess you cross that bridge when you get really hard core about a hard skinny seat. I don’t see the need but I know people who do. Me, I’ll just stick to lubing the chain and ride on a seat with some padding.

 

[Rich W.]

yes weight makes a big difference. so does tire size. like my bulls with the older bosch motor and 1.5" tires was faster and I coud put out more wats then my trek with the new bosch motor because it has 2.3'" tires and its so much more sluggish. my average watts when down and I had a lower heartrate and burned less calories. I plan on putting smaller tires on it when I wear them out.

I do too - slightly smaller and less agressive tread. I saw some tire specs that included rolling watts and it would seem some balance between that and the amount of tread really needed for your type of riding would optimize that aspect. Something like this would give enough traction for my riding and have less rolling resistance:

 

[PSm]

I do too - slightly smaller and less agressive tread. I saw some tire specs that included rolling watts and it would seem some balance between that and the amount of tread really needed for your type of riding would optimize that aspect. Something like this would give enough traction for my riding and have less rolling resistance:
View attachment 144448

This is my go to site, for evaluating tires.

Bicycle Rolling Resistance | Rolling Resistance Tests

Bicycle Rolling Resistance publishes detailed reviews and articles about mountain bike and road bike tires, which have been tested on our rolling resistance roller

www.bicyclerollingresistance.com

Helped me decide on Conti GP 5000 Road Tires 30mm, which I highly (!) recommend and run at 85-90 psi range, if generally smooth road rides are your use case. Combined with high quality tubes like Schwalbe, getting low rolling resistance and decent puncture resistance, and unless it’s a placebo effect an increase of 1-2 mph in average speed

 

[fooferdoggie]

This is my go to site, for evaluating tires.

Bicycle Rolling Resistance | Rolling Resistance Tests

Bicycle Rolling Resistance publishes detailed reviews and articles about mountain bike and road bike tires, which have been tested on our rolling resistance roller

www.bicyclerollingresistance.com

Helped me decide on Conti GP 5000 Road Tires 30mm, which I highly (!) recommend and run at 85-90 psi range, if generally smooth road rides are your use case. Combined with high quality tubes like Schwalbe, getting low rolling resistance and decent puncture resistance, and unless it’s a placebo effect an increase of 1-2 mph in average speed

I just made our tandem tubeless so much nicer. so next tires on my trek will be tubeless. I have found on my bulls it is a bit of a placebo effect. it feels like less work so you can work harder. Your actually working harder but it doesn ot feel like it. even though the trek has more torque the ties make it so sluggish I feel like I am doing the same work but I am not. I find sometimes more assist I can up my watts output but it does not feel like it.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Since it is Winter where I live, I had to accept the fact winter studded tyres have a high rolling resistance. Moreover, I cannot convert to tubeless as I swap tyres for the cold and warm season and the tubeless is too messy for that. I have accepted the fact Winter riding is slow.

I am currently only left with Vado SL (for an undetermined span of time). I actually enjoy riding with less assistance nowadays (as long as I'm riding solo); it makes me feel a traditional cyclist, and I work out more! Only regretting my health disallows me riding traditional bikes... (that would be really slow!)

 

[PSm]

Since it is Winter where I live, I had to accept the fact winter studded tyres have a high rolling resistance. Moreover, I cannot convert to tubeless as I swap tyres for the cold and warm season and the tubeless is too messy for that. I have accepted the fact Winter riding is slow.

I am currently only left with Vado SL (for an undetermined span of time). I actually enjoy riding with less assistance nowadays (as long as I'm riding solo); it makes me feel a traditional cyclist, and I work out more! Only regretting my health disallows me riding traditional bikes... (that would be really slow!)

You are tougher than I am. No outdoor winter riding for me. Now using an indoor spin bike, and virtual reality cycling apps, and enjoying doing virtual group rides or solo rides, all from the comfort of indoors.

 

[fooferdoggie]

You are tougher than I am. No outdoor winter riding for me. Now using an indoor spin bike, and virtual reality cycling apps, and enjoying doing virtual group rides or solo rides, all from the comfort of indoors.

you are tougher then me that would kill me. I can keep warm outside. but I would die of boredom riding inside.

 

[PSm]

you are tougher then me that would kill me. I can keep warm outside. but I would die of boredom riding inside.

That’s what I thought, since I got the indoor bike for my spouse, and she loves it.

So I was SHOCKED when I started doing virtual races (with others around the world), competing with them while having my power in watts, FTP in w/kg, speed, cadence, BPM and hill incline data all displayed, and am REALLY ENJOYING IT. The Wahoo app even allows drafting, with watts saved displayed when you are above a certain speed, and at the proper distance behind other riders. And going downhill, you generate speed and can save your energy coasting, just like outdoors. And having the proper line into corners even makes a difference. And just like outdoors, if you lose the pack, it takes a lot of effort to regain and get back on the draft. Very unexpected fun, since I love biking outdoors.

The solo rides, and non-races are TBH too boring for me. So sticking to races and group rides only, and working to increase my FTP, and improve my standings at the finish in these virtual races.

But still looking forward to better weather and getting back outdoors.

 

[Rich W.]

That’s what I thought, since I got the indoor bike for my spouse, and she loves it.

So I was SHOCKED when I started doing virtual races (with others around the world), competing with them while having my power in watts, FTP in w/kg, speed, cadence, BPM and hill incline data all displayed, and am REALLY ENJOYING IT. The Wahoo app even allows drafting, with watts saved displayed when you are above a certain speed, and at the proper distance behind other riders. And going downhill, you generate speed and can save your energy coasting, just like outdoors. And having the proper line into corners even makes a difference. And just like outdoors, if you lose the pack, it takes a lot of effort to regain and get back on the draft. Very unexpected fun, since I love biking outdoors.

The solo rides, and non-races are TBH too boring for me. So sticking to races and group rides only, and working to increase my FTP, and improve my standings at the finish in these virtual races.

But still looking forward to better weather and getting back outdoors.

Interesting. I rode about 20 miles in the desert alone today and loved it, even when backtracking a couple miles when I got to a ravine I couldn't cross. But my wife does virtual rowing competitions with folks all over the world so I understand that as well.