The True Costs of Owning and Using an Electric Bike

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Hi guys! I'm moving some content off of the main site and into the most relevant categories of the forum. This post was originally made on October 21st 2016:

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This guide is meant to provide a comprehensive overview of the short and long term costs associated with electric bike purchase, use and ownership. I’ve listed dates for the first section to help orient you as time passes but from what I’ve seen, many electric bicycles are going down in cost with each passing year :)

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The first cost to factor in is the initial purchase price, there’s a wide range depending on brand, battery size and components. Below are some averages and ranges based on a number of 2016 retail listings for the various categories. Note that you can often find earlier year models for a reduced sale price (especially in the Fall as inventory resets). Also note that these averages do not take into consideration budget electric bikes as you might find at Walmart on Amazon or other big box stores, which tend to cost less up front but rack up higher maintenance and replacement costs down the line. I’ve reviewed three cheaper Amazon bikes here, here and here with details about assembly time and effort.
  • 2016 Cruisers ebikes: Average cost of about $3,050, ranging from roughly $1,500 to $7,900.
  • 2016 Mountain ebikes: Average cost of about $4,150, ranging from roughly $1,200 to $9,000.
  • 2016 Road ebikes: Average cost of about $4,750, ranging from roughly $1,900 to $8,000.
  • 2016 City ebikes: Average cost of about $2,800, ranging from roughly $1,200 to $8,000.
  • 2016 Folding ebikes: Average cost of about $1,750, ranging from roughly $700 to $5,000.
  • 2016 Cargo ebikes: Average cost of about $3,300, ranging from roughly $1,700 to $6,000.
Once you’ve selected your ebike type and model, there’s one big variable cost to consider which is electricity… how much it costs to fill the battery each time you ride and how far that juice will take you. Here’s a quick guide to pricing out fuel costs:
  • Multiply the battery voltage and amp hour rating to get watt hours ie. 36 volt 10 amp hour battery has 360 watt hours (divide by 1,000 to get Kilowatt hours)
  • Check your local electricity prices, the average cost per Kilowatt hour in the USA at the time of this guide was $0.12
  • Multiply the Kilowatt size of your battery by the cost per Kilowatt hour electrical rate ie. .36 and $0.12 = a complete charging cost of $0.0342 or roughly four cents
  • Estimate your trip distance cost by dividing the charge cost by the average range of your battery pack… I estimate the lowest range per charge by dividing the watt hour capacity of the pack by 20 ie. 360 / 20 = 18 miles per charge and now we divide $0.0342 by 18 to get $0.00171 per mile. That’s less than two tents of a penny per mile on an electric bike looking at electricity alone!
Batteries don’t last forever but most of the major manufacturers like Samsung and Panasonic that supply Bosch, Yamaha, Impulse and some Bafang drive systems estimate 1,000 cycles and warranty about two years of continuous use. The cost of battery replacement ranges from $500 to $800 depending on the size of the pack and whether it’s custom or more standardized in shape and interface. Some batteries can’t be replaced via the original equipment manufacturer at all because the brand has gone out of business and in those cases the battery case can often be repacked for ~$500.

Other considerations: Many times electric bikes wear out faster than non-electric bikes because they tend to be ridden more frequently, at higher speeds and for longer distances. If this is going to become your primary means of transportation, it may also see more challenging weather such as rain or snow. Cold weather in particular, cuts down the effective capacity of a pack and some companies offer Neoprene covers to keep them warm… I often store mine in the garage where it’s warmer than the shed but safer than being inside the house in case of a fire. Anyway, a good rule of thumb is to have a tune-up / check-up for your ebike every six months if you’re riding actively or every 500 miles. A tune up for your ebike will range in price depending on who is performing the service, and should any parts be needed, etc., also note that some places include a surcharge for ebikes, even if it’s just a normal service. This is one of the reasons I prefer to buy directly from electric bike dealers, they tend to be more friendly and open to repairs and maintenance if they sold it to you and they are very likely better equipped to help with battery issues, your controller or the display. Here’s a few guidelines for costs:
  • Tune up: $75 – $100+
  • Flat tire fix (not including tube cost): $10 – $20
  • Brake adjustment: $20 – $35
  • Drivetrain replacement or adjusting: $20 – $60
Maintenance tips: The most common necessary repair is fixing a flat tire; keep the necessary tools, and a spare inner-tube, so you can do it yourself. This may require finding an ebike model that doesn’t require a lot of specialized tools to get at / remove the wheels. It’s one of the reason’s that mid-drive bikes have become popular in recent years, not only is the motor more efficient if you switch gears to help it climb or go fast but the wheels tend to be quick release making them much easier to remove than a hub motor.

A couple of additional tips: Purchase a good lock—protect your investment, sometimes it’s shocking to see a $100 u-lock or folding lock but if you just spent $2,000+ on the bike, it’s a good investment. I know people who purchased two locks just to make it extra difficult for a would-be thief! If your ebike doesn’t have lights or a bell, consider adding these as well. Your bike won’t be worth much if you get hurt and can’t ride it and as the seasons change and it gets dark earlier you may be caught off guard by traffic.

All things considered, electric bicycles can be very efficient both in terms of energy use and money spent. They aren’t free and while you can’t charge most by pedaling (something that gets asked a lot) the electricity cost to fill them from a standard outlet is extremely low. Electric bicycles in fact, are often way more efficient than people-powered bicycles due to the fuel that humans consume which tends to be grown remotely, shipped using gasoline, stocked, shipped from there to a home and often cooked, digested and transferred from chemical to kinetic energy. Whether it’s coal, wind power or solar being used to charge an ebike, it’s usually much more efficient than using food to fuel a human being but you can still get a workout and perhaps transition more of your travel from a heavy, inefficient multi-person vehicle to a light weight, safe and affordable ebike.
 
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Following are some of the original comments that were made on that post:

JOHN R. KARL
Great comments! I never thought about the cost of food for the human machine versus electricity for the electric bike! (I am still going to use my bike for exercise, and thus pay for all that food, but this is a great concept anyway.)

COURT
Glad you enjoyed the writeup John, there are so many factors to consider in both the production of an ebike vs. what’s already made… the power used to fill it or fill you and how it will perform over time etc. it’s a fun topic. Glad you’re enjoying your bike, which one did you get?!

TENBLINKERS
I would add to you list of costs these three things:
  1. Immediately replacing stock tires with kevlar-lined tires pays for itself many times over in terms of flat fix costs, time and aggravation.
  2. Chains and sprockets wear out with the speed and distance ridden on e-bikes, about every 800-1,000 miles for chains, and 1,500-ish for sprockets. Also, cargo bikes require 1.5 or 2 regular-size chains per replacement.
  3. Spokes. Especially for heavier riders, you’ll be replacing spokes every few hundred miles. And, many e-bikes use non-standard thickness spokes, which incurs extra time and money.
COURT
Excellent additons! Thanks for taking the time to list them out… Do you have any feedback on which tires or brands work well? Where to get spokes and whether you use Loctite or another glue to keep spokes from coming loose? I think most people just go to their local shop for help but it’s nice to hear what brands or specific products work :)

TENBLINKERS
No surprise, I use Schwalbe Marathon Plus, and they’ve been excellent. One flat in 1,600 miles, and that was from people maliciously seeding a new bike path in town with nails. I probably went over them a dozen times before one finally stuck. My wife uses a Continental kevlar-lined tire without issue as well.
For spokes, I ended up buying a box of 12g spokes from Amazon, and taking them to one of the only shops in town with equipment that could thread them. I’m sure if you call your local ebike shop they can either thread them there or will know someone who can. I don’t use Loctite, but I’d recommend it for thick spokes. They do have a tendency to come loose. I ended up having my back wheel rebuilt with 13/14g spokes, which haven’t come loose, but several makers do use the 12g, and they did for me come loose every 300 miles or so.

COURT
Oh man, that’s such a bummer! And a waste of nails :p glad to hear the tires held up well enough until they didn’t an d that your wife is doing well. Interesting to hear your confirmation about thicker (stronger) spokes coming loose more frequently. I’ve heard that before and I guess there’s just a sweet spot between strength and the flexibility of the narrower ones that might not come loose as much. I hope your future rides are great and would encourage you to step off and kick the nails to the side next time. I know how much it can suck to change a flat, especially on an ebike if you’re far from home…

GORDON MORROW
I was a shop mechanic and USCF licensed race mechanic many years ago. We set up a well-stocked repair pit at a couple hundred races over several years including Goodwill games, US national track championships and many local races and rides in Pacific NW. Powerful racers had a constant problem with wheels coming out of true. Eventually, we figured out that massive changes in pedaling torque and extreme vibration from high speeds was causing spokes nipples to vibrate loose. Result: wheels become untrue. I experimented with several Loctite thread locking products to keep wheels true. Here is what I recommend:
  • Apply Loctite 290 to nipples of stable, properly trued, wheels. After your new wheels have been ridden hard and are ‘broken in’ (maybe the first 40 miles or so) re-true and de-stress them. (See Tip #2 in next comment below.) At this point, they should be stable. This is the time to apply Loctite 290 to keep spokes from vibrating loose and thus out of true. Simply put a small drop at the point where the spoke and nipple meet. The Loctite 290 (a green thin oily liquid) will instantly wick into the threads. After all of the nipples are treated, spin the wheel for a few seconds to encourage wicking. Wipe off any excess drips with a rag or paper towel. Wait a few hours, or ideally overnight for the Loctite 290 to ‘set’ and the wheel will stay true for thousands of miles! It really works and, yes, wheels can still be trued although you will feel a bit of resistance and sometimes a short ‘pop’ as the nipple breaks free. We treated all our neutral support race wheels and all wheels from riders we serviced in our repair pit area. We never had any complaints or issues with this method. I highly recommend it for all spoked bicycle wheels. TIP: Loctite recommends using a primer for stainless steel. I did not use a primer. It may make the bond too permanent and I don’t recommend it. See also.
  • For experienced wheel builders: When building up wheels from the component parts, first clean off any oil – often present from manufacturing – from spoke threads then dip each threaded spoke end into Loctite 242. It’s blue and oily which helps the spokes and nipples go together easily. A small bottle cap works well as a dipping pot for the Loctite 242. TIP #1: this stuff will begin hardening after about a half hour. Work with purpose so your wheel is laced, properly tensioned and true by then. TIP #2: To remove unwanted spoke wind-up as you are building your wheel, lay it flat on the floor. With hands at 3 and 9 o’clock positions lean GENTLY – straight down – onto the rim. Be careful! Too much force and the wheel will ‘chip’ i.e. distort badly. Rotate the wheel a quarter turn and repeat three times. Then flip the wheel over and repeat until the spokes quit ‘pinging’ or creaking, which indicates spoke wind-up is being relieved. This lack of pinging means everything is stable. Put it in the wheel jig and true again. Check the wheel dish too. Repeat stressing the wheel and retruing until there are no more pings and the wheel is true and dished correctly. Experienced wheel builders will know what I am talking about.
  • Purple Loctite 222 proved to be too weak. Not recommended.
  • Red Loctite 271 proved to be too strong. Not recommended.
  • NEVER apply oil to spokes! Grease is even worse and will guarantee the wheel becomes grossly untrue in a short time. I saw one wheel come completely undone during a triathlon: spokes were flopping about as the rider ran, pushing his unrideable bike with brand new wheels. Yep. His spoke threads had been assembled with grease.
  • Oil or grease on threads degrades the strength of Loctite. For best results clean it off before applying Loctite.
  • Magic Spoke Dust, a thread locker for wheels, is nothing more than powdered pine rosin. I’m not sure how well it works.
  • Dipping spoke threads into boiled linseed oil is an old-school spoke locker. It cures/dries in a day or two. Not sure how well it works.
COURT
Great tips Gordon! Thanks for spending your time to spell all of this out and help others ride longer and truer ;) I have heard about using Loctite before but wasn’t sure which types or how to apply it. Your thorough overview is much appreciated!

BIKINBUCK
Too bad I didn’t see this article a month ago. I would’ve been so much more organized.

COURT
Hope you’re doing alright, glad the article helped at least a little… better late than never ;)
 
Good write-up. But it still begs the question.....what's a realistic total lifetime cost-per-mile over the service life of a well-maintained cheap ebike/moderately priced e-bike/premium quality e-bike?
 
In Canadian money it costs me at least $1500 a year to maintain my e bile.12,000 kms a year, on average every 1200 kms (800kms in winter,1500kms in summer) new brake pads,new chain +labour(150.00),new cassette every 4500 kms. That was the biggest surprise, maintaining my e bike is more expensive than maintaining my 1999 little Mazda ($250 for 10,000 kms last year) of course I save the insurance cost($1000 /year)and fuel ($2500/year). I

With a change of battery every 3 years I expect that my annual average maintenance cost will be over $2000
 
In Canadian money it costs me at least $1500 a year to maintain my e bile.12,000 kms a year, on average every 1200 kms (800kms in winter,1500kms in summer) new brake pads,new chain +labour(150.00),new cassette every 4500 kms. That was the biggest surprise, maintaining my e bike is more expensive than maintaining my 1999 little Mazda ($250 for 10,000 kms last year) of course I save the insurance cost($1000 /year)and fuel ($2500/year). I

With a change of battery every 3 years I expect that my annual average maintenance cost will be over $2000

Wow...Im in the automotive industry and I am shocked your spending that much on your bike anually...Do you take your bike in and not do any work yourself??? If my bills are going to be that high Ill just ride my 113ci Motorbike instead...
 
No I don't do any of the work myself, I'm not mechanically inclined. In general I have found the e bikes cost maintenance information on the net totally misleading. Mostly provided by authors paid to sale ebikes.
 
At that cost why not just replace the bike every year? You may be better off ahead, sell your worn bike put the money towards a new bike..
 
Given your nearly $5,000 total cost of driving a car ($2500 for fuel, $1,000 for insurance and probably $500 for parking @ $10 per week and another $750 per year for oil changes and miscellaneous repairs) and the fact that you do not do even the most basic repairs on your bike, you are likely saving close to $3,000 per year by riding your bike instead of driving a car. @Darceman 's idea of buying a new bike every year so you always have a bike under warranty sounds like sage advice and pretty close to break even, depending on the cost of the bike you ride.
 
In Canadian money it costs me at least $1500 a year to maintain my e bile.12,000 kms a year, on average every 1200 kms (800kms in winter,1500kms in summer) new brake pads,new chain +labour(150.00),new cassette every 4500 kms. That was the biggest surprise, maintaining my e bike is more expensive than maintaining my 1999 little Mazda ($250 for 10,000 kms last year) of course I save the insurance cost($1000 /year)and fuel ($2500/year). I

With a change of battery every 3 years I expect that my annual average maintenance cost will be over $2000

I assume you have a mid-drive bike, based on how often you are changing chains and cassettes. I'm also guessing you are in Vancouver or thereabouts, where the winter riding is wet and grimy.
One thing I found made a big difference in my drivetrain maintenance was having a front fender that extended right to the ground with a stiff mudflap. Otherwise, the gritty spray from the front tire goes straight onto the chain and grinds everything down. Having a routine of spinning the crank backward while applying some tri-flo to the chain after all wet rides helps as well.

Drivetrain wear was one of the reasons I went with a geared hub motor, rather than mid-drive.
 
I live in Bellingham, just 50 miles south of Vancouver. I have mid drive, Bosch powered bikes. I clean and lube my chain every 150-200 miles, which for me is once a week. It takes all of 5 minutes but makes a huge difference in shifting performance, bike reliability and chain/sprocket life. I get about 1,500 miles (2400km) on a chain and have yet to replace a front chain sprocket or cassette. I really recommend you go on youtube and learn how to clean a chain and properly lube it. It will definitely improve ride quality and parts longevity.
 
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I think that one really interesting part of the total cost calculation will be how much I can expect to get if/when I decide to sell my Vado 5.0.
Let’s say my battery will be fine ( I rarely have to charge to more than 80% and discharge to 20%) but even so - how hot will my Vado be in two to four years? There will be new alternatives for buyers, don’t you think?
Total cost per year or mile for my ebike or any other pleasures is not without importance for me but I’m probably disqualified from this discussion now because I don’t care much for the time beeing. I sold my little motorcycle and bought this e-bike for enjoyment and I am having fun.
Running expenses seem to be lower than for the motorcycle but having a budget for general care and future service is probably a good idee for a retiree. I’m not sure a Brose motor can outlive a Kawasaki 300cc twin:D
I think what I should do ( and all I really can do) is to look after it well so that it can serve me for as long as possible.
 
In Canadian money it costs me at least $1500 a year to maintain my e bile.12,000 kms a year, on average every 1200 kms (800kms in winter,1500kms in summer) new brake pads,new chain +labour(150.00),new cassette every 4500 kms. That was the biggest surprise, maintaining my e bike is more expensive than maintaining my 1999 little Mazda ($250 for 10,000 kms last year) of course I save the insurance cost($1000 /year)and fuel ($2500/year). I

With a change of battery every 3 years I expect that my annual average maintenance cost will be over $2000
So I have had my ebike for three months now and have just under 1500 kms on it. My brake pads still have lots left. My chain and sprocket still look good and zero problems. I will need a rear tire soon. The only maintenance is all easy and if you don't know how to do something you can learn on youtube. Oh..I replaced the cassette when I first got it for different gearing. $2 for the tool $25 for the cassette on Ali express and twenty minutes worth of work.
 
That info is flawed. Id failed to take into account the many cost benefits during ownership.

It didn’t mentioned :

- better fitness (a 1.000.000$ value ) or higher depends on how much you value yours.

- the happiest or happiness “H” factor (a 1 billion $ factor) , again may be higher or lower , even 0$, if you are living in the woods and don’t appreciate the H factor ;

- saved time over driving in an ICE or EV cage. (7$-1500$/hour) , that depends on your occupation.

Overall if we take the +++ and take out the —— — (brake pads, new tubes, tune ups) it looks like an ebike is an Absolute Winner😉.

Can someone make a new graph ad ? It would make the regular people understand this a Lot better.
 
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Given your nearly $5,000 total cost of driving a car ($2500 for fuel, $1,000 for insurance and probably $500 for parking @ $10 per week and another $750 per year for oil changes and miscellaneous repairs) and the fact that you do not do even the most basic repairs on your bike, you are likely saving close to $3,000 per year by riding your bike instead of driving a car. @Darceman 's idea of buying a new bike every year so you always have a bike under warranty sounds like sage advice and pretty close to break even, depending on the cost of the bike you ride.

The Canadian Automobile Association (or CAA, the Canadian equivalent of the AAA) estimates that the average cost to own a car in Canada is $9500. Though they also note that the average Canadian underestimates the true cost by about $4000. ;) So $1500 for an e-bike is nothing.

@Bedi bedang, make sure they're putting on a hardened e-bike chain each time you replace the chain. They cost more (instead of a $30 chain it might be a $60-90 chain), but they last many times longer. And that means not only are your chains lasting longer, but your sprockets are lasting longer too as the chain wearing out accelerates sprocket wear. We find KMC chains have the greatest range of choices (they have chains hardened against stretch, hardened against weather/rust, and chains hardened against both). You may already be all over it given the mileage you're getting, but thought I'd make sure it's on your radar. :)
 
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