Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

[2wheelsgood]

Regarding the proper chain length, I was unsure if I was sizing it right on the upgrade of my Vado SL Gen 1 to Shimano Di2 XTR (wireless) 12-speed. Fortunately, @stompandgo was as kind as to look at the pictures and advised shortening the chain. Thank you so much, Stomp!

I have no experience with SRAM drivetrains and let others ride it I also use Garbaruk chainrings and those have never let me down.

The main reason I upgraded to the electronic drivetrain was trying something new and exciting. Now I think I could have equipped my upgraded SL to the 12-speed mechanical Deore XT and I would be equally (or perhaps even more?) happy. I now know I will keep the mechanical 11-speed Deore XT on my big Vado: it never fails even if the cable could be perhaps replaced

I am regretting the change to AXS to be honest. I liked it at first probably as it was new and exciting.

My bike is still in the shop so I am riding my sons mechanical Sirrus 3 with plain Deore and that changes smoother than my Eagle AXS or the Di2 Ultegra on my Roubaix.

 

[stompandgo]

I went from brand new 12 speed Deore mechanical to brand new 12 speed Deore XT Di2 on the Pinarello, and the difference is night and day. I am an admitted Di2 snob, but I'll say this. If your Di2, of any generation, is not shifting lightning quick, shift after shift, and feels like a step backwards from mechanical, there's something wrong with it.

Mechanical systems have a lot of forgiveness. Electronic systems are all about precision and consistency. To provide that, everything else that goes with the system must be optimized. The chain and cassette needs to match the vendor and installed correctly. The derailleur hanger must be straight. The front derailleur cage must be set properly. The derailleurs must be set up properly mechanically before electronically fine tuning them. That doesn't mean that they're delicate, and you can't get the same great shifting when the drivetrain is full of mud, slush, or whatever junk you're riding through, within reason.

I've ridden eTap and AXS a bit. It feels more like mechanical to me. It is generally also lighter than Di2. I still prefer a central battery with wires to separate batteries in the derailleurs.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I would say a slightly bent derailleur hanger can still be handled by the Di2 derailer. The adjustment is -10 units in my case.

What I dislike about the Shimano wireless is the shifter. In a higher class mechanical Shimano system, you can both push or pull the upshift lever. With Di2, you can only push it. I liked the push buttons on SRAM and especially on the Chinese Wheeltop EDS a way better. In rough terrain, I often push a wrong Di2 lever. Never happened with the push button shifters, especially with the Wheeltop, where the buttons are different from each other.

 

[stompandgo]

I would say a slightly bent derailleur hanger can still be handled by the Di2 derailer. The adjustment is -10 units in my case.

What I dislike about the Shimano wireless is the shifter. In a higher class mechanical Shimano system, you can both push or pull the upshift lever. With Di2, you can only push it. I liked the push buttons on SRAM and especially on the Chinese Wheeltop EDS a way better. In rough terrain, I often push a wrong Di2 lever. Never happened with the push button shifters, especially with the Wheeltop, where the buttons are different from each other.

I totally get that. The shifter is also very sensitive. If I accidentally touch the lever, it shifts, without a direct press. I love the Multishift, though. That makes up for the shortcomings. I have it set for:

Tap - one cog
One click - two cogs
Full press - three cogs

I think that might be tough to do with a pull upshift lever.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

As for my riding style, I only do the one click or the full press. I will set the long press to 2 cogs (it is now 3). No need for more where I'm riding! The shifting is as fast as I can repeat the action there in the hills if necessary.

 

[2wheelsgood]

So after spending nigh on 1000 pounds in the last 2 months to get a smoother gear change I arrive here:

New XG-1275 cassette
New SRAM 500 AXS derailleur
New Eagle S500 chain (95 pounds!)

And the gear change? really poor, the worst it has ever been

 

[Stefan Mikes]

So after spending nigh on 1000 pounds in the last 2 months to get a smoother gear change I arrive here:

New XG-1275 cassette
New SRAM 500 AXS derailleur
New Eagle S500 chain (95 pounds!)

And the gear change? really poor, the worst it has ever been

How come? Everything adjusted alright? It is hard to believe anyone would buy SRAM gear if it were so bad!

 

[2wheelsgood]

I

How come? Everything adjusted alright? It is hard to believe anyone would buy SRAM gear if it were so bad!

Honestly, I don't know.

I took it straight back to the shop after riding around the block and the mechanic checked it again and then the senior guy did and they both said it seemed ok to them.

But I know what is like when it is setup correctly and it is not this. I took it home and I adjusted the limiter myself and attempted a few micro adjustments and it is a bit better but not much; today, it could not even find one of the cogs and just rattles along the top till I change down again.

The bike is also noisy again after going over bumps so that is depressing. One mechanic said the hub needed looking at while the one who did the work said it was fine. If i wiggle the crank back and forth it does rattle a bit but I am not sure if that is normal.

 

[mogulman]

As for my riding style, I only do the one click or the full press. I will set the long press to 2 cogs (it is now 3). No need for more where I'm riding! The shifting is as fast as I can repeat the action there in the hills if necessary.

I use the hold as 2 clicks on my AXS.

 

[Rás Cnoic]

I


Honestly, I don't know.

I took it straight back to the shop after riding around the block and the mechanic checked it again and then the senior guy did and they both said it seemed ok to them.

But I know what is like when it is setup correctly and it is not this. I took it home and I adjusted the limiter myself and attempted a few micro adjustments and it is a bit better but not much; today, it could not even find one of the cogs and just rattles along the top till I change down again.

The bike is also noisy again after going over bumps so that is depressing. One mechanic said the hub needed looking at while the one who did the work said it was fine. If i wiggle the crank back and forth it does rattle a bit but I am not sure if that is normal.

There is nothing worse then when the bike mechanic shakes his head and say he can't find anything wrong- except in this case where there were 2 of the feckers.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I admit I rode my Vado SL (Fearless) a little this year, perhaps 1500 km. All this following upgrading the rear wheel, going 12 speed and installing an electronic derailleur. I'm getting old fast and my ailments force me to mostly ride the more powerful Vado 6.0 (Roadrunner). Still, my Fearless is a wonder to ride in rough terrain! It is very forgiving and (with the proper tyre pressure and Redshift suspension) it is very comfortable on shaky routes.

I'm taking Fearless to the coming Great Lakes Gravel rally. The area of Mazuria is all rolling hills but nothing would stop me there, especially as the max grade is 5.2% on the 110 km route! (Fearless has now massive low end on the gearing but I do not even need that much!)

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Thinking out loud department — feel free to ignore
Last week, I finally decided to pull the trigger on removing my SL1 EQ's stock fenders and rack in order to fit a 40 mm Tracer TLR tubeless gravel tire on back.

Normally don't need fenders around here, but now I'm having 2nd thoughts as credible predictions of heavier than normal rainfall till spring due to the coming super El Nino event keep piling up. The rains could start before the end of the month.

Motivation: As previously reported here and here, a major brake upgrade ~6 months ago substantially increased the SL's stopping power. Huge improvement, but then realized that the semi-slick 38 mm Pathfinder Pros (above) on the bike at the time just didn't have the traction the new brakes needed to perform at full potential.

Then got a 40 mm Tracer TLR up front without removing the fender when that Pathfinder got fatally damaged 3-4 months ago. And now I'm totally hooked on the Tracer's greatly increased front wheel traction, especially offroad. Such a sure-footed bike now — except in back

At the time, decided to keep the rear Pathfinder till it blew, as 38 mm gravel tires have largely vanished from the market, and per my mechanic, no way to fit a 40 mm anything on back with the fender there. Problem is, the rear end's relative squirrelliness on offroad descents has really been bugging me, and I want my rear Tracer NOW!

Of course, biblical rains will come the moment the fenders come off, and everyone will blame me for it. Not to mention the potential soakings and lost saddle time over winter.

So, should I do the prudent thing and wait till spring? Nah. Didn't lose that much saddle time to the lesser El Nino of 2023-2024, and a sure-footed SL front and back will truly be a glorious thing!

Going to the LBS to plan out the project and deal with all the knock-on effects (like loss of the tail light and rack) on Monday. Just add money!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Win Wing 2 Gravel Stealth

Win Wing 2 is the ultra-effective, ultra-lightweight mudguard that turns fender design on its head. Shop the Stealth Win Wing Gravel in the official Ass Savers store. Free shipping worldwide from €30 and 100% happy guarantee!

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Quick-Rack

Transform your bike in no time at all from a lightweight bike for sporty tours into a transport bike for shopping and commuting – this way you stay completely flexible. Fifteen seconds is all it takes to mount the practical luggage rack and only five seconds to remove it again. The struts with a...

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Perfect replacements for the removed rear fender and rack. Cannot help with the loss of the tail light though.