Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

[CodyDog]

Congratulations on your new Vado SL!

I am a great advocate of Specialized Pathfinder Pro (I ride the 700x38c). If you remove the front fender, you will avoid issues I had regarding gravel and forest rides. On the other hand, removing the rear fender would deprive you of the rack and the tail-light. That's why I encourage you to stay at the 38 mm tyre size (regardless of the make/model). 38 mm is a proper gravel tyre size ridden by many. SL 5.0 comes with tubeless ready wheels: if you convert to tubeless, you would be able riding your SL at low inflation pressure, making your e-bike ideal for gravel rides.

Thanks Stefan, Great advise in the Pathfinders 38c.

 

[CodyDog]

Congrats on a great choice. I've barely ridden unassisted just because it's my first e-bike and I'm enjoying the various assist modes. I rode 50km today in mostly eco.

Thanks. My first ride was with my wife who was riding an analog bike so I decided to see if I could pedal the ride without the power. I was always concerned about whether I would be able to do so and was happy see I could. I was so used to my heavy Turbo Levo Comp which required me to be in at least level on assist. That bike was so much heavier than this one. I will definitely be using the different level of assist on most of my rides. with the new SL for wind and hills.

 

[mschwett]

$700 doesn't sound like too much for a carbon fork with suspension. I would consider it for my SL4. I do like the Redshift suspension stem as it would be cheaper but with only a 6 degree rise and 90mm being the shortest option, it would change my relationship to my handlebars and don't want to do it - perfect as it is. Suppose I could find some riser bars or maybe bars that sweep back a bit further to compensate for the different dimension stem but then the price would be getting up there and maybe then - just go for the suspension fork.

that’s true, $500-$1000 gets you all types of full suspension front forks. the future shock, of course, isn’t the same as a true suspension fork. it has much less travel, but it also only isolates the handlebars from vibration, rather than the entire front of the bike. i find it very good for the kind of high frequency small scale vibration of gravel and dirt roads, but basically useless for big bumps, ruts, potholes etc.

persobally, i wouldn’t compromise riding position for a suspension stem, even by 20mm…

 

[Stefan Mikes]

@mschwett is right, @BioWheel. FutureShock is not a suspension fork same as Redshift stem is not a suspension fork. The fact the FutureShock has to come together with a carbon fork is just a design matter, and of course increasing the price because you have to buy the whole assembly not just the stem.

What makes me surprised, Mark is you say the FutureShock is not effective against potholes/bumps. Because Redshift stem/seatpost combo is very effective for rough pavement. (Just have returned from a bumpy SL ride)

 

[mschwett]

@mschwett is right, @BioWheel. FutureShock is not a suspension fork same as Redshift stem is not a suspension fork. The fact the FutureShock has to come together with a carbon fork is just a design matter, and of course increasing the price because you have to buy the whole assembly not just the stem.

What makes me surprised, Mark is you say the FutureShock is not effective against potholes/bumps. Because Redshift stem/seatpost combo is very effective for rough pavement. (Just have returned from a bumpy SL ride)

compared to a fully suspended front fork, definitely not! it doesn't bother me but those seeking a really smooth ride on very bad roads without getting out of the saddle should look elsewhere

 

[rochrunner]

compared to a fully suspended front fork, definitely not! it doesn't bother me but those seeking a really smooth ride on very bad roads without getting out of the saddle should look elsewhere

I would add that the Futureshock on my SL seems to do better than the "full suspension" fork on my old Vado 4.0, but some of that improvement is no doubt due to the weight difference.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I would add that the Futureshock on my SL seems to do better than the "full suspension" fork on my old Vado 4.0, but some of that improvement is no doubt due to the weight difference.

I would agree to that. Them coil loaded inexpensive suspension forks are not good.

compared to a fully suspended front fork, definitely not! it doesn't bother me but those seeking a really smooth ride on very bad roads without getting out of the saddle should look elsewhere

I used to ride a good e-MTB for a year, full suspension and all. Recently, I borrowed that (formerly mine) Trance E+ from my brother and went with "gravel" cyclists (who ride either pavement or rough terrain here). While on a ride, I spotted a nasty (very rough) segment ahead. So I added assistance and sprinted over that segment to make impression on my buddies. Guess what. The whole suspension had been locked, and I even didn't notice that! It was the 2.6" tyres to do the work. (I had a similar situation on a steep rocky descent in 2020 as well).

I often say: "The true suspension is for traction, not for ride comfort". I swear by the Redshift front/rear being almost as comfortable as a premium full suspension. Specialized*, Trek**, Cannondale*** all provide comfortable "quasi suspension" on selected bikes/e-bikes. Specialized and RedShift say the 20 mm of suspension located high is as good as true suspension; only the true suspension greatly improves traction but is heavy at the same time.
------------
*) FutureShock
**) IsoSpeed
***) Lefty Oliver

 

[mschwett]

I would agree to that. Them coil loaded inexpensive suspension forks are not good.


I used to ride a good e-MTB for a year, full suspension and all. Recently, I borrowed that (formerly mine) Trance E+ from my brother and went with "gravel" cyclists (who ride either pavement or rough terrain here). While on a ride, I spotted a nasty (very rough) segment ahead. So I added assistance and sprinted over that segment to make impression on my buddies. Guess what. The whole suspension had been locked, and I even didn't notice that! It was the 2.6" tyres to do the work. (I had a similar situation on a steep rocky descent in 2020 as well).

I often say: "The true suspension is for traction, not for ride comfort". I swear by the Redshift front/rear being almost as comfortable as a premium full suspension. Specialized, Trek, Cannondale all provide comfortable "quasi suspension" on selected bikes/e-bikes. Them (and RedShift) all say the 20 mm of suspension located high is as good as true suspension; only the true suspension greatly improves traction but is heavy at the same time.

tires are the best suspension for sure. they isolate the entire bike, including the rims! of course as we know there are huge trade offs in rolling resistance and aerodynamic to very big tires.

as for traction, i know that only too well. I still recall my first attempt to ride up a very steep (over 15% i think) rutted dirt path on my creo; with my very small amount of skill and medium amount of fear it was simply impossible to keep the rear wheel on the ground. any assistance from the motor compounded the problem greatly, and i simply wasn’t strong enough to maintain enough speed for balance on my own. time to pick the bike up and walk up the hill in my cleats!

 

[Löhmraagondein]

Salutations camarades

I'm new on the forum and took the time to read the 64 pages of this discussion before commenting. First things first: thank you a lot for all your insights, shared experiences and knowledge. The time involved to help, innovate, experiment is astounding.

And here I am because I too fell for a Vado SL 4.0 EQ. My first real/serious bike ever. I ditched my car to change in lifestyle and I've never been that happy. Bigadin ("Binky" in french for those who'll get the reference), my new ride, is fantastic. And you guys surely helped me a lot in finding ways to fantasticize it even more.
The thing is I don't share the same financial ease that some of you seem to enjoy, thus, all upgrades will have to be prioritized, budgeted thoughtfully. I managed to get this expensive bike thanks to friends and family gathering money as a present, and I sold my car. I plan on widening its capabilities, and as I have to focus on one mount, I want it as polyvalent as possible, even though I totally get that there will be inevitable losses in certain dimensions (if not all).

So far, with the data collected from you guys, I know the essential items I'd like to invest in:
- suspension Stem and seat post: ~400€ for the redshift kit. Big bucks so I'll have to wait a bit for that.
- tires: ~100€: I recently feel with the stock nimbus on pavement and don't trust them any longer. I'm thinking about the pathfinder pro 2bliss, but the smart sams seem to bring more off-road capabilities. I've seen someone (forgot about the member's name, sorry) mentioned using two different tires (like using a more notched one on the front for better handling on gravel/dirt) and I kinda like the concept, but being really new in the bike world, my excentricity will probably have physical repercussions. I'd prefer optimization over stupid/easily avoidable losses I'm still wondering about the width and the gain/loss ratio between a 38, a 40 or a 42, without taking into account the rack and mudguards, which I took off yesterday to have a look at a non-EQ vado and try a lighter ride (-820gr for the whole kit). I've watched a video claiming that a wider tire stays rounder under pressure, thus reduces RR, but is there a threshold at which width brings more downsides?
I'm mainly on roads and pavement for my everyday life but I want to be able to branch off and follow as much of the paths I encounter as possible, be it forests, gravel and such.

- pedals: ~70€ for dual flat/auto ones as Shimano PD-EH500. I've never tried auto pedals, but with optimization in mind, for longer ride, it's something I'd like to try and master on the long run. In the idea of travelling by bike, any watt saved will be welcomed. Maybe it's better to have two different sets of pedals and switch according to the ride, but I'm the lazy kind and having the choice at any moment sounds easier.

I have my idea in order to build a custom full frame bag, I know several ladies that could pull something off with their sewing prowess. But that's just a project so far
Again, thanks a lot for what you already brought, and thanks in advance for the thoughful advises I may get in the future.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Congratulations! (An Estonian, perhaps?)

Regarding Smart Sams: "Been there, done that" as they say. As good as they are, Smart Sams offer a considerable rolling resistance. With the low power SL motor, we should do everything possible to optimize the RR. Now, I swapped Smart Sams for Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss 38-622 and never regretted that decision. Which (38 mm) also helps you to keep your speedometer, daily trip meter and odometer readings true without the need of visiting the LBS for wheel circumference figure adjustment. I'm riding similar terrain as you do, and Pathfinder Pros really rock on gravel and in the forest, while being very fast rolling on pavement. (If you must, the next good size is 42 mm).

As you have removed the fenders and the rack: What did happen to the tail-light?

Regarding the pedals: If you are not convinced to the "clipless" pedals such as PD-EH500, you would be well off with RaceFace Ride, which are platform pedals equipped with moulded traction areas. The beauty of Rides is these are NOT equipped with steel traction pins that can hurt your shins and calves (I love the steel traction pin pedals but that's me. I keep a pair of RaceFace Rides for my gf when she comes to Poland again).

 

[BioWheel]

Salutations camarades

I'm new on the forum and took the time to read the 64 pages of this discussion before commenting. First things first: thank you a lot for all your insights, shared experiences and knowledge. The time involved to help, innovate, experiment is astounding.

And here I am because I too fell for a Vado SL 4.0 EQ. My first real/serious bike ever. I ditched my car to change in lifestyle and I've never been that happy. Bigadin ("Binky" in french for those who'll get the reference), my new ride, is fantastic. And you guys surely helped me a lot in finding ways to fantasticize it even more.
The thing is I don't share the same financial ease that some of you seem to enjoy, thus, all upgrades will have to be prioritized, budgeted thoughtfully. I managed to get this expensive bike thanks to friends and family gathering money as a present, and I sold my car. I plan on widening its capabilities, and as I have to focus on one mount, I want it as polyvalent as possible, even though I totally get that there will be inevitable losses in certain dimensions (if not all).

So far, with the data collected from you guys, I know the essential items I'd like to invest in:
- suspension Stem and seat post: ~400€ for the redshift kit. Big bucks so I'll have to wait a bit for that.
- tires: ~100€: I recently feel with the stock nimbus on pavement and don't trust them any longer. I'm thinking about the pathfinder pro 2bliss, but the smart sams seem to bring more off-road capabilities. I've seen someone (forgot about the member's name, sorry) mentioned using two different tires (like using a more notched one on the front for better handling on gravel/dirt) and I kinda like the concept, but being really new in the bike world, my excentricity will probably have physical repercussions. I'd prefer optimization over stupid/easily avoidable losses I'm still wondering about the width and the gain/loss ratio between a 38, a 40 or a 42, without taking into account the rack and mudguards, which I took off yesterday to have a look at a non-EQ vado and try a lighter ride (-820gr for the whole kit). I've watched a video claiming that a wider tire stays rounder under pressure, thus reduces RR, but is there a threshold at which width brings more downsides?
I'm mainly on roads and pavement for my everyday life but I want to be able to branch off and follow as much of the paths I encounter as possible, be it forests, gravel and such.

- pedals: ~70€ for dual flat/auto ones as Shimano PD-EH500. I've never tried auto pedals, but with optimization in mind, for longer ride, it's something I'd like to try and master on the long run. In the idea of travelling by bike, any watt saved will be welcomed. Maybe it's better to have two different sets of pedals and switch according to the ride, but I'm the lazy kind and having the choice at any moment sounds easier.

I have my idea in order to build a custom full frame bag, I know several ladies that could pull something off with their sewing prowess. But that's just a project so far
Again, thanks a lot for what you already brought, and thanks in advance for the thoughful advises I may get in the future.

Congratulations!! It's an incredible bike as the title of the thread suggests correctly. That said - there are some of us that haven't upgraded a thing and love the SL. Think this way, Specy worked hard on this model with expert bike engineers with plenty of experience contributing to it's design. It was tested and put through focus groups and some great components chosen. Sure, to keep the price down, there is some sacrifice but just because some components aren't the most expensive - they're still very good. Want to really get your money's worth? Then leave the bike as it is and enjoy it that way. Finally, I think folks immediately look to change components just to make the bike their own - different then the rest. But that can be done by adding a bag or something as simple as putting a sticker on the frame. I say keep it the way it is. The way the experts that you paid a lot of money to decided it should be. And have fun!!

 

[Cary W]

- pedals: ~70€ for dual flat/auto ones as Shimano PD-EH500. I've never tried auto pedals, but with optimization in mind, for longer ride, it's something I'd like to try and master on the long run. In the idea of travelling by bike, any watt saved will be welcomed. Maybe it's better to have two different sets of pedals and switch according to the ride, but I'm the lazy kind and having the choice at any moment sounds easier.

FYI, I recently bought Crank Bros. Stamp 1 pedals for ~US$40. After three rides I really love them. They are as close as I can imagine to the clipless pedals on my road bike.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

FYI, I recently bought Crank Bros. Stamp 1 pedals for ~US$40. After three rides I really love them. They are as close as I can imagine to the clipless pedals on my road bike.

It was a time I used these on my all e-bikes. These composite Stamp 1 are as good as the much more expensive metal Stamp 7. Another benefit is the Stamps can be bought in large size. Currently, I use Race Face Chesters on Vado SL but have found them a little small as for my feet.

 

[Löhmraagondein]

Congratulations! (An Estonian, perhaps?)

Regarding Smart Sams: "Been there, done that" as they say. As good as they are, Smart Sams offer a considerable rolling resistance. With the low power SL motor, we should do everything possible to optimize the RR. Now, I swapped Smart Sams for Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss 38-622 and never regretted that decision. Which (38 mm) also helps you to keep your speedometer, daily trip meter and odometer readings true without the need of visiting the LBS for wheel circumference figure adjustment. I'm riding similar terrain as you do, and Pathfinder Pros really rock on gravel and in the forest, while being very fast rolling on pavement. (If you must, the next good size is 42 mm).

As you have removed the fenders and the rack: What did happen to the tail-light?

Regarding the pedals: If you are not convinced to the "clipless" pedals such as PD-EH500, you would be well off with RaceFace Ride, which are platform pedals equipped with moulded traction areas. The beauty of Rides is these are NOT equipped with steel traction pins that can hurt your shins and calves (I love the steel traction pin pedals but that's me. I keep a pair of RaceFace Rides for my gf when she comes to Poland again).

Haha I'm actually french. I wonder why the estonian guess though. The alias maybe?

What do you mean by "If you must" concerning the 42mm tires? If I want to get on rougher terrain for example? But at the cost of increased RR?
I cut the wire of the tail light and made a temporary hack to place it under the saddle, (a few zip ties, thin hole plates and some foam, the result is ugly as hell but it works for now) at the top tube level. I have yet to find a way to move and fix it more easily if I want to put the rack/mudguards on/off depending on the needs. Or to place it at the right spot for good, which isn't defined yet, because of mind turbulence about a potential saddle bag. The lack of rack surely limits the good options in terms of visibility.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

The alias maybe?

Yes

What do you mean by "If you must" concerning the 42mm tires? If I want to get on rougher terrain for example? But at the cost of increased RR?

The 38 mm tyres are the most popular among gravel cyclists. The 42 mm is the next popular size but Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss in this size are hard to get. The 38 mm are the most natural replacements for the Nimbus (and it reports proper data to the e-bike TCU). You will also be able to restore the fenders for the rainy season without tyre replacement. Note: Where I live, "gravel cyclists" ride either pavement or dirt as there are not many gravel roads here anymore. So I say 38 mm is good as long as you choose proper "gravel" tyres such as PP. These tyres are very suple, especially under reduced tyre inflation.

I cut the wire of the tail light and made a temporary hack to place it under the saddle, (a few zip ties, thin hole plates and some foam, the result is ugly as hell but it works for now) at the top tube level. I have yet to find a way to move and fix it more easily if I want to put the rack/mudguards on/off depending on the needs. Or to place it at the right spot for good, which isn't defined yet, because of mind turbulence about a potential saddle bag. The lack of rack surely limits the good options in terms of visibility.

Thank you for the answer! I only removed the front fender for the warm season. Rear rack is useful for me, and I didn't need to fight with the tail-light.

 

[Löhmraagondein]

Congratulations!! It's an incredible bike as the title of the thread suggests correctly. That said - there are some of us that haven't upgraded a thing and love the SL. Think this way, Specy worked hard on this model with expert bike engineers with plenty of experience contributing to it's design. It was tested and put through focus groups and some great components chosen. Sure, to keep the price down, there is some sacrifice but just because some components aren't the most expensive - they're still very good. Want to really get your money's worth? Then leave the bike as it is and enjoy it that way. Finally, I think folks immediately look to change components just to make the bike their own - different then the rest. But that can be done by adding a bag or something as simple as putting a sticker on the frame. I say keep it the way it is. The way the experts that you paid a lot of money to decided it should be. And have fun!!

Of course, and I surely do enjoy and love it as it is. It's really a matter of bettering the experience. My work (animal inn keeper) prevents me a lot from riding my bike, so I want to maximize the fun I get from my adventures. As it's my only vehicle and I plan on travelling with it at some point too, optimizing for performances/comfort/possibilities doesn't seem that excessive. The pedals surely are cheap and kinda dangerous outside of an urban setting. Which is what the vado's made for of course. Again, it's about bringing more polyvalence than what the designers planned for this bike. Doing more with the same core. If I leave the bike as it is, there are experiences that I can't aspire to or that will be dangerous/awful if I dare trying.
I'm not the impulsive kind. It took me 1.5 year before getting the bike so I'd be sure to invest all that wholesomely gifted money on the right one. The upgrades will be slowly incremental.

 

[Löhmraagondein]

Yes

The 38 mm tyres are the most popular among gravel cyclists. The 42 mm is the next popular size but Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss in this size are hard to get. The 38 mm are the most natural replacements for the Nimbus (and it reports proper data to the e-bike TCU). You will also be able to restore the fenders for the rainy season without tyre replacement. Note: Where I live, "gravel cyclists" ride either pavement or dirt as there are not many gravel roads here anymore. So I say 38 mm is good as long as you choose proper "gravel" tyres such as PP. These tyres are very suple, especially under reduced tyre inflation.

Thank you for the answer! I only removed the front fender for the warm season. Rear rack is useful for me, and I didn't need to fight with the tail-light.

Yeah, the rack is awesome for groceries, I'm quite pleased with my removable "trunks". I think I'll probably put it back on after my test ride with the non-EQ version of Bigadin.
I plan on going to my LBS tomorrow or on wednesday to get the Pathfinder Pros.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I plan on going to my LBS tomorrow or on wednesday to get the Pathfinder Pros.

And tell me how the supplies in France look like I mean, I would be interested in your report of visiting the Specialized LBS!

 

[Löhmraagondein]

FYI, I recently bought Crank Bros. Stamp 1 pedals for ~US$40. After three rides I really love them. They are as close as I can imagine to the clipless pedals on my road bike.

That's nice, I may probably go with such models if I can avoid the struggle of having multiple sets of pedals/shoes and so on. Thanks!

 

[Löhmraagondein]

And tell me how the supplies in France look like I mean, I would be interested in your report of visiting the Specialized LBS!

Do you want pictures of the store? How is it more about the offered service?