Stefan,
www.komoot.de
Two pairs of shoes I have bought in the last year (Scott and Shimano) have loops of elastic on the tongue to secure excess laces. I haven't used the loops as I am used to tying the laces with a double knot to minimise the excess and keep them secure.
It is a most interesting write up, Robert! Thank you!
Richard: I have standardized on Adidas FiveTen FreeRider Pro. These shoes do not have flaps to cover the laces. I just am careful when I tie them now. I had a worse situation in heavy winter boots once...
My last two pairs of SPD bike shoes -- Louis Garneau and Shimano -- use the Boa lacing system, which I could not recommend more highly for both fit and convenience. It gives a very even pressure along the lacing area and is easily adjustable. You can even make adjustments without taking your feet off the pedals just by reaching down. They might look a bit fragile but have a lifetime warranty.
Doesn't that make a crunching sound as the chain climbs up and down the sprocket? That can't be good for the longevity of the drivetrain.
Your observations are very true.
I have reorganized it by using a GoPro camera mount to move the headlight past the cables. A simpler solution here.
A ride safety feature (of which I am very fond).
True. As long as the e-bike is on, you can track the battery charging level on TCD, Mission Control, Wahoo, Garmin...
The capability is the same as of the TCD-w Gen 1, only it cannot be operated by the handlebar remote. I use a Wahoo ELEMNT as a universal display but Wahoos start at $300 (similarly to Garmin Edge) while the TCD is only $90.
I wonder if that would work out. The SL system is very well "internally aware" and it can tell the difference between the internal battery and Range Extender. For instance, it is not possible to charge two REs with the SL Y-Cable. The advantage of the RE is it is only 2.2 lbs and may be (or may be not) taken for a ride (to save weight). Two Range Extenders are more practical than a single main battery. Just saying.
I apologize for asking trivial questions:
Yeah - I ease up when shifting all my bikes, although it's difficult when I need to shift down (larger cog) when the going gets tough on a climb.
The key is to ensure enough of the e-bike momentum uphill. I typically downshift dramatically when I am in the beginning of the climb, and spin at some 90 rpm. When I see on the cadence meter I get down to 80, the bike still rides fast enough to stop pedalling for a short while, downshift again (Shimano allows as many as 3 gears down), and start spinning again.
Yes, I'm well aware of all that (after all, I've been riding for 50 years!), and I was thinking more about my conventional bikes where you can't always call on some extra torque to make up for having failed to shift in time.
I also had coffeemaker in my mind when I wrote my postYes, I'm well aware of all that (after all, I've been riding for 50 years!), and I was thinking more about my conventional bikes where you can't always call on some extra torque to make up for having failed to shift in time.
I'm used to the wired TCD of the non-SL Vado, which I dearly miss. Backlight that was synced with the bike light power, controlled by the remote buttons, etc.
I'd get the range extenders if they were cheaper. I got a brand new internal battery for a good deal from someone who was shipping their bike overseas without it. The system does indeed know the difference between the internal battery and a range extender. I may have to run the two internal batteries in parallel. I have some poking around to do.
I degreased the chain and put RocknRoll dry lube on it. It works for me, but I may try thicker Muck Off Lube next. The shifter itself is perfect. On max assist, the motor is extremely sensitive and kicks in with the lightest of pedaling.
You've found the culprit! I do my shifting very instinctively (it has become my second nature). For instance, I use the Turbo mode rarely, and when I do, I do my shifts very carefully. When slowing down with an expected stop (in any assistance mode) I even do not notice my "three gear downshifting".
My recommendation: use the dry lube for dry weeks and the "wet" one for rainy days. It is the chain rollers that require the lubing only: the rest of the chain should be dry and clean, or it would attract dirt.
No. Shimano HG (Hyperglide) is designed so that the chain climbs smoothly up the sprockets while in continuous motion. It has worked that way since its introduction in 1989! See https://konstantin.shemyak.com/cycling/HG/hyperglide.html
Continuous motion, yes, but I think it puts extra stress on it if it's under a heavy load at the time. On my regular road bike I can definitely feel (and hear) the difference. I believe that some ebikes detect a shift and momentarily cut the motor to shift more smoothly.
I probably don’t have enough strength to create put the system under “heavy load”.
I agree - My Vado SL 4.0 with the 10 speed clunked loudly when I shifted to a smaller sprocket. I tried to slow my cadence way down or even stop pedaling for a split second before shifting. Riding with assist off, it was a much quieter shift. My creo, with an 11 speed, has a noticeable but much quieter shift noise. I’m not sure if that’s just because of the closer spaced gears or a better derailleur. Probably both. With assist off, the creo is smooth and silent shifting. I ride mostly in eco or without assist, only occasionally in sport for short distances. I do think the shifting clunk is more noticeable in the higher assist levels.
I've had really good results from the Silca wax dip here in Santa Barbara. I had to change a tube mid-ride, and my hands were clean even after handling the chain and rear derailleur.
That would be a first if I ever experienced it! But ever since I had a road bike with white bar tape and changed a flat on the rear, I learned to carry a pair of disposable latex gloves in my toolkit.
