Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

This has probably been covered in the forum but maybe there's a fresh take on it. On my bikes, I've always done routine chain maintenance by using one of those chain cleaning devices that clamps around the chain, then let it dry and relube it, etc. I've always done this by turning the cranks backwards for convenience and also that's the way those chain cleaning gizmos are designed to work. As we all know, you can't do this on the Specialized e-bikes, making this a more difficult chore, especially when the bike isn't on a workstand so that you could turn the cranks forward.

I did use a tip here at one time to use a heavy-duty zip-tie to secure the crank arm to the gear; this works, but I'm not sure if turning the internal components backwards is even a good idea. Another method would be to just remove the chain and clean it off the bike; I do this occasionally on my bikes, but will need a bigger supply of quick-links if I make it a habit.

So how are you all doing it?
 
This has probably been covered in the forum but maybe there's a fresh take on it. On my bikes, I've always done routine chain maintenance by using one of those chain cleaning devices that clamps around the chain, then let it dry and relube it, etc. I've always done this by turning the cranks backwards for convenience and also that's the way those chain cleaning gizmos are designed to work. As we all know, you can't do this on the Specialized e-bikes, making this a more difficult chore, especially when the bike isn't on a workstand so that you could turn the cranks forward.

I did use a tip here at one time to use a heavy-duty zip-tie to secure the crank arm to the gear; this works, but I'm not sure if turning the internal components backwards is even a good idea. Another method would be to just remove the chain and clean it off the bike; I do this occasionally on my bikes, but will need a bigger supply of quick-links if I make it a habit.

So how are you all doing it?
Can you just spin the back wheel backwards when on the work stand to pull the chain through. That will turn some parts of the motor backwards as well, but it is just the same as wheeling the bike backwards.
 
This has probably been covered in the forum but maybe there's a fresh take on it. On my bikes, I've always done routine chain maintenance by using one of those chain cleaning devices that clamps around the chain, then let it dry and relube it, etc. I've always done this by turning the cranks backwards for convenience and also that's the way those chain cleaning gizmos are designed to work. As we all know, you can't do this on the Specialized e-bikes, making this a more difficult chore, especially when the bike isn't on a workstand so that you could turn the cranks forward.

I did use a tip here at one time to use a heavy-duty zip-tie to secure the crank arm to the gear; this works, but I'm not sure if turning the internal components backwards is even a good idea. Another method would be to just remove the chain and clean it off the bike; I do this occasionally on my bikes, but will need a bigger supply of quick-links if I make it a habit.
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So how are you all doing it?
Using a zip tie does work, and as far as I know, there’s no problem doing so. A better, if modestly expensive option, is a new accessory from MucOff, the Drive Train tool. (US link: https://us.muc-off.com/collections/ebike/products/ebike-drivetrain-crank-tool). It’s one of those, “Why didn’t I think of that?” products.
 
Does anyone know the reason the chainwheel doesn‘t turn backwards with the cranks on many e-bikes? Just curious.
I'm not sure of the exact reason, but look down at your crank some time while you're pedaling and then stop pedaling. You'll see the crank gear make at least a partial revolution after the cranks arms have stopped moving. It's that "freewheel" clutch that is what also keeps you from turning it backwards, and if were not there, it looks like the motor would actually resist your attempt to stop turning the cranks. I'm probably not explaining this correctly, but try looking down as you stop pedaling and you'll see what I mean and can think about what's going on there.
 
This has probably been covered in the forum but maybe there's a fresh take on it. On my bikes, I've always done routine chain maintenance by using one of those chain cleaning devices that clamps around the chain, then let it dry and relube it, etc. I've always done this by turning the cranks backwards for convenience and also that's the way those chain cleaning gizmos are designed to work. As we all know, you can't do this on the Specialized e-bikes, making this a more difficult chore, especially when the bike isn't on a workstand so that you could turn the cranks forward.

I did use a tip here at one time to use a heavy-duty zip-tie to secure the crank arm to the gear; this works, but I'm not sure if turning the internal components backwards is even a good idea. Another method would be to just remove the chain and clean it off the bike; I do this occasionally on my bikes, but will need a bigger supply of quick-links if I make it a habit.

So how are you all doing it?
Just stick an Allen key into the chain ring bolt hole nearest to the crank and pedal backwards. This causes the chain to go backwards allowing you to clean your chain. Easy.
 
Just stick an Allen key into the chain ring bolt hole nearest to the crank and pedal backwards. This causes the chain to go backwards allowing you to clean your chain. Easy.
That’s what I’ve done. The Allen key can get wedged in and require a sharp push on the pedal in the forward direction to get it out. I got some very minor nicks in the crank arm at the contact point too. It looks like the above product avoids that by keeping the Allen perpendicular to the chain ring and adding cushioning against the crank arms. Now I raise the rear wheel a little with my work stand and just pedal it forward to clean and lube the chain.
 
Does anyone know the reason the chainwheel doesn‘t turn backwards with the cranks on many e-bikes? Just curious.
The chainring and the crankset spindle are totally disconnected in a mid-drive motor. You actually pedal through the motor internal gearing. When you are in a normal motor assistance situation, your pedalling power adds to the motor power, and the combined power is transferred to the chainring. Specifically for SL e-bikes, switching the assistance in the OFF mode or exceeding 25 km/h (Europe, Australia) makes internal motor clutches transfer the rotation of the spindle more directly to the chainring. No mid-drive motor allows back-pedalling because:
  • If back-pedalling were allowed, it would badly affect the motor and could be dangerous to you (you would try to stop the motor with back-pedalling)
  • Back-pedalling is the most frequent cause of the chain drop.
 
This has probably been covered in the forum but maybe there's a fresh take on it. On my bikes, I've always done routine chain maintenance by using one of those chain cleaning devices that clamps around the chain, then let it dry and relube it, etc. I've always done this by turning the cranks backwards for convenience and also that's the way those chain cleaning gizmos are designed to work. As we all know, you can't do this on the Specialized e-bikes, making this a more difficult chore, especially when the bike isn't on a workstand so that you could turn the cranks forward.

I did use a tip here at one time to use a heavy-duty zip-tie to secure the crank arm to the gear; this works, but I'm not sure if turning the internal components backwards is even a good idea. Another method would be to just remove the chain and clean it off the bike; I do this occasionally on my bikes, but will need a bigger supply of quick-links if I make it a habit.

So how are you all doing it?
I just rotate the e-bike upside down... and move the chain by hand backwards.
 
Are we talking about the Park Tool chain cleaner? We can’t use it on the Vado SL? Why not? I’ve been using it. Pushing the pedals forward is not resulting in a proper cleaning? Uh oh. My bad!
 
Are we talking about the Park Tool chain cleaner? We can’t use it on the Vado SL? Why not? I’ve been using it. Pushing the pedals forward is not resulting in a proper cleaning? Uh oh. My bad!
As far as I know, pedaling forward isn’t a problem for cleaning. The Park clean cleaner instructions say pedal forward on mid drive bikes. The rear wheel spinning can be dangerous to fingers and so forth, though.
 
Are we talking about the Park Tool chain cleaner? We can’t use it on the Vado SL? Why not? I’ve been using it. Pushing the pedals forward is not resulting in a proper cleaning? Uh oh. My bad!
The park tool cleaner (the newer model) lets you put the handle on either side, designed for mid motor ebikes. You can forward pedal through it and have the chain exit past the sponge and go through the brushes the same direction as it would move with the handle reversed and back pedaling. I’ve seen other cleaners with non reversible handles that say ‘not for mid motor ebikes’.
 
The park tool cleaner (the newer model) lets you put the handle on either side, designed for mid motor ebikes. You can forward pedal through it and have the chain exit past the sponge and go through the brushes the same direction as it would move with the handle reversed and back pedaling. I’ve seen other cleaners with non reversible handles that say ‘not for mid motor ebikes’.
So you put it on the lower chain run and pedal forwards? If so, it seems like you'd be pulling the lower chain run (and putting tension on it) from the cassette end instead of the chainring end. Doesn't that stretch out the derailleur cage if there's a lot of drag from the tool? At least that's how I'm picturing it.

Also, I've seen that "flip the bike upside down" thing somewhere else and will admit that I don't get it.
 
So you put it on the lower chain run and pedal forwards? If so, it seems like you'd be pulling the lower chain run (and putting tension on it) from the cassette end instead of the chainring end. Doesn't that stretch out the derailleur cage if there's a lot of drag from the tool? At least that's how I'm picturing it.

Also, I've seen that "flip the bike upside down" thing somewhere else and will admit that I don't get it.
I get what you’re questioning. That’s how the cleaner is designed and it seems to work on my Creo. Maybe the derailleur spring tension and the clutch take care of things. I’ll pay closer attention next time I use it, but so far, so good.
 
My wife's mid-motor Trek Verve+ with the Bosch system can be pedaled backwards to move the chain in that direction.

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Aha :)
 
My wife's mid-motor Trek Verve+ with the Bosch system can be pedaled backwards to move the chain in that direction.
We have added a Trek Verve+ 2 to our bike collection for my wife. We gave up waiting for the Vado SL 5.0 EQ which had been on order for 4 months. Multiple promised delivery dates came and went and then they weren’t even able to estimate when it might arrive.

Buying the Trek was pretty much a spur of the moment decision. We watched the video review on EBR and checked stock at out local Trek dealer which is only about 2 km from home. Finding that they had an M in stock, we went around and bought it after a short test ride. That was last Friday. We went for a 20 km ride on Saturday which went well but haven’t fully put it through its paces.
 
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