Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

If Robert gets the 2020 SL, the equipment will be in agreement with the specs... We are served by Specialized Europe here. They do care.
 
I know this post was months ago but just noticed it.

You say 134% of combined batteries consumed. Does that mean you had a stop and recharged the batteries?
No, that figure meant the Range Extender was used. In the fully charged state the combined battery charge is 150% and that is reported -- for example -- by the TCD display. On the other hand, device such as Wahoo ELEMNT reports 100/100%, separately for each battery.

(The Range Extender capacity is half of the main battery).
 
@VoltMan99: Thanks to @shiruba, I could finally understand why Specialized only sells SL e-bikes in Japan. The point is Japan only allows "it's 2x you" e-bikes...
It was not clear to me before.
 
@VoltMan99: Thanks to @shiruba, I could finally understand why Specialized only sells SL e-bikes in Japan. The point is Japan only allows "it's 2x you" e-bikes...
It was not clear to me before.
Hi Stefan, yes they’re pretty strict here about e-bike restrictions. I’m actually happy with it because it keeps it safer on Tokyo streets and yet has allowed e-bikes to become a mainstream mode of transportation for young parents. Very common to see a bike with Mom + 2 children onboard going to and from school or shopping, climbing hills easily etc. .

Japan is really decades ahead of other countries in E-Bike transportation. They’re also now doing a good job of regulating the standing e-scooters too - cops in front of my house giving them tickets like crazy lately 🤣.
 
@RyedaleMike, @Allan47.7339, @VoltMan99 and @Rincon: Thank you so much to make me choose Redshift ShockStop Stem for my Vado SL 4; the thing is just amazing!

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The setup instruction found in the box was detailed and precise. I was following the guidelines to an iota (a YouTube video additionally helped). I chose a single blue "70" elastomer piece. Unfortunately, replacing the minimalist and elegant Specialized stem (with integrated light and computer mount) forced me to use a spare TCD/Garmin mount that came with my bike, and a GoPro mount for the Lezyne light. That made my cockpit crammed but no other option was available (at least the Lezyne light is not obscured by stiff cables now...)

The ride impressions are astounding! Whenever you ride onto any road imperfection (a small curb, cracked asphalt, paving blocks, gravel -- including the "washboard" and "crushed rock" type) you know those imperfections are there; you just feel as if you took a massive dose of strong painkiller prior to the ride! Because the ShockStop Stem is about dampening shock, not cancelling it.

Wonderful thing for the money, and far cheaper than Specialized FutureShock with CF fork... (Why would I need a CF fork?!)

P.S. No need for a stem extender. I ride my SL in a forward position and like it.
Thanks, Stefan, for the whole thread but especially for this. I bought my 4.0 in November as a change of pace from my trusty road bike and am loving it. I've only found two drawbacks: using the Deore shifter to get into an easier gear with an arthritic right thumb and dealing with washboard on dirt roads. For the former I found a workaround by rotating the shifter about 90 degrees upward so I can use the heel of my palm if my thumb starts to hurt. The latter made me wish I'd spent the extra $$ on the 5.0, but the Redshift stem looks like the perfect solution and the basic one is on sale right now for ~$139 US. I'm still using the stock headlight and I'm sure I have a spare mount for my Garmin 810. Are there any other considerations I should know about?
 
A few thoughts after reading most of this excellent thread. Just FYI, I am 74, weigh 155 lbs., live in Boulder, CO, and come from a road bike background. Especially since the pandemic began I count on riding as my "cyclotherapy." This year I put in 4500 miles on my Fezzari CR5 road bike — about 50% more than an average year — plus close to 300 more on my new SL 4.0, so I think it's safe to say I'm fairly fit. The more I ride the e-bike the more I like it, especially on windy days, which we have a lot of. (You may have heard about Thursday's massive windstorm that fed a devastating fire near here.) Now I'll ride on days where I may have just packed it in on the Fezzari.

A few things I haven't seen mentioned here:
—— Pedals: I'm still adjusting to using flat pedals (as opposed to the Look clipless pedals I normally use). I'm good with the flats because I think of this as a combo commuter/gravel/occasional climbing bike, so I want no fuss when I just want to go to the grocery store. Right now it's about finding a consistent foot placement. I just bought a sweet pair of Five Ten Sleuth DLX shoes, which should be a big upgrade over the tennies I've been using. Unfortunately I haven't been able to test them out yet since the giant wind was immediately followed by 10" of snow.
—— Changing a flat tire: I haven't really scoped this out yet, and thankfully haven't had the need to. On my other bike I use RhinoDillo tire liners; we are plagued with goathead thorns that can even penetrate the liners. Last month I had simultaneous front/rear flats from the little f#$%kers. How difficult is it to remove/replace the wheels on the 4.0? I think it requires an Allen wrench since there's no quick-release.

For a mirror I have always used one that clips onto my glasses and that works fine for me. We have a mostly arid climate so mudguards are generally a non-starter. (Less than an inch of rain between late August and December 30 made for a lot of rideable days, but eventually fed the awful wildfires.) I got a nice third-party rack for around $40 from my LBS which should hopefully also block most rear wheel road spray when it's wet. So far my longest ride is a little over 40 miles on this bike. But I can't see any chance of getting 80 miles of battery life even solely using the Eco mode. Where I live the options are a mix of flatlands/hills or ... mountains. Maybe I will eventually spring for the Range Extender but $450 is pretty pricey. As mentioned above, I'm definitely leaning toward the Redshift stem shock to smooth out those washboards.

Finally, let me share with you all this hilarious video. The "Just enjoy the ride" message has really stuck with me.
 
Are there any other considerations I should know about?
Redshift ShockStop Stem is incredibly good, trust me! Now, you need to relocate the headlight and it is done with a GoPro mount, not a Garmin one.

If you would like to do something interesting, you might try complementing your handlebars with installing SQlab Innerbarends. Now, it is a little bit confusing:
  • SQlab Innerbarends 411 can be used with any handlebar grips, even with the very good Specialized stock ones, or
  • SQlab Innerbarends 410/402 can be used with either SQlab 710 or 702 grips.
The Innerbarends are installed on the inside of the handlebar grips. They perform similarly to road e-bike handlebar hoods, only are spread more apart. The Innerbarends allow very easy control of brakes and of the shifter. I am convert now! The only deficiency is the Innerbarends feel hard in touch and riding in gloves is recommended.
 
A different subject.

I’m thinking about getting a TCD for my Vado SL 4 EQ So I don’t have to mount my expensive iPhone on my handlebars. But, I still want to be able to use Strava or Ride with GPS on the phone in my pocket.

I would use the TCD to monitor speed, battery and so forth while riding. The iPhone apps would be used for recording health data, turn by turn directions and so forth. Will both work simultaneously? It’s not clear from the docs.
 
Hi BEC,
Everything will work seamlessly just as you think. I only give you a thought for a consideration: an e-bike GPS computer such as Wahoo ELEMNT Bolt v2. Or a Garmin Edge (starting from model 530). Any of these computers would replace your phone for:
  • Recording your rides with export to Strava (and possibly twenty other services)
  • Reporting the full status of your Vado SL (anything that you can find on the TCD screen) as these bike computers connect to your Vado SL perfectly
  • GPS navigation
  • Connection to a heart rate monitor
The greatest benefit of a bike GPS computer is there is no chance for the battery go flat during your ride. These computers are durable, and capable of standing very low temperatures.

I have found the only functionality of the TCD that is getting dusty in my drawer is a quick check of the battery level in case I don't want to wait for Wahoo to start :D

In case you choose a Garmin Edge (530, 830, 1030+), it mounts directly into the TCD mount. If you select a Wahoo, you need a Quarter Turn Wahoo-Garmin adapter. I personally recommend the Wahoo (and specifically ELEMNT Bolt v2). I use Wahoo ELEMNT Roam, which is more expensive but Bolt v2 is more modern and actually superior to Roam, and it is less expensive. (A great benefit of Wahoo over Garmin is the former is easily configured from a smartphone, while the latter requires configuring on the device).

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A Wahoo ELEMNT Roam on my Vado SL 4.0 EQ. I have used another mount.

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This is how a Wahoo ELEMNT cooperates with Strava. (I didn't connect my HR monitor for the ride).

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As I had no route plan predefined, I used the Wahoo function "Take me to..." thrice for that ride.
 
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Hi BEC,
Everything will work seamlessly just as you think. I only give you a thought for a consideration: an e-bike GPS computer such as Wahoo ELEMNT Bolt v2. Or a Garmin Edge (starting from model 530). Any of these computers would replace your phone for:
  • Recording your rides with export to Strava (and possibly twenty other services)
  • Reporting the full status of your Vado SL (anything that you can find on the TCD screen) as these bike computers connect to your Vado SL perfectly
  • GPS navigation
  • Connection to a heart rate monitor
The greatest benefit of a bike GPS computer is there is no chance for the battery go flat during your ride. These computers are durable, and capable of standing very low temperatures.

I have found the only functionality of the TCD that is getting dusty in my drawer is a quick check of the battery level in case I don't want to wait for Wahoo to start :D

In case you choose a Garmin Edge (530, 830, 1030+), it mounts directly into the TCD mount. If you select a Wahoo, you need a Quarter Turn Wahoo-Garmin adapter. I personally recommend the Wahoo (and specifically ELEMNT Bolt v2). I use Wahoo ELEMNT Roam, which is more expensive but Bolt v2 is more modern and actually superior to Roam, and it is less expensive. (A great benefit of Wahoo over Garmin is the former is easily configured from a smartphone, while the latter requires configuring on the device).

View attachment 110914
A Wahoo ELEMNT Roam on my Vado SL 4.0 EQ. I have used another mount.
Thanks Stefan,
You not only answered by direct questions you also answered my implied question about alternative cycling computers.

If I go the computer route, I have to get a mount anyway since my SL 4 didn’t come with one. I believe the Wahoo includes one, so that won’t be a big issue.

I’ve been circling around this for over a year now because I use my Apple Watch for heart beat monitoring and as far as I can tell the bolt can’t sync with the watch. It this relatively new world of smart tech not everything works the way one would prefer.

Whatever I decide, I think I’ve identified my birthday present for February.
 
I believe the Wahoo includes one, so that won’t be a big issue.
Yes it does. My route was more complicated, as I replaced the stem of my Vado SL 4.0 EQ with Redshift ShockStop, and later bought the Redshift Computer Mount (Wahoo). The original Wahoo mount is on my big Vado now.

When I ride my Vado SL, I keep my smartphone in the back pocket of my jersey (Wahoo loves to be nearby to a smartphone at times). When I ride the big Vado, my phone stays on the bars just as a backup.
 
Yes it does. My route was more complicated, as I replaced the stem of my Vado SL 4.0 EQ with Redshift ShockStop, and later bought the Redshift Computer Mount (Wahoo). The original Wahoo mount is on my big Vado now.

When I ride my Vado SL, I keep my smartphone in the back pocket of my jersey (Wahoo loves to be nearby to a smartphone at times). When I ride the big Vado, my phone stays on the bars just as a backup.
Part of the fun of our hobby is discovering the various routes to resolving the conundrums of health, strength, technology, bikes and routes with what’s available and what we can afford. I so enjoy the help we give each other here on EBR and the few other sites that have similar features. Not all of us have decades of active cycling to call upon, but all of us together have centuries of experience to share.
 
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Battery level: About right? Which data style do you prefer, integrated level for both batteries or the individual one?
 
A couple comments on Wahoo vs. Garmin. I found that Apple people have a little more affinity towards the Wahoo, and I agree with Stefan, the Bolt v2 is the way to go. I think the Wahoo interface is a little more streamlined, though both can be programmed, in fact, lots of open source third party stuff on Garmin. I also think the Wahoo is a little easier to see in shifting sunlight. It's just such a great, practical bike computer that will do everything most people want, and then some.

Having said all that, as an Apple user, I own a Garmin 830, of course! 🙃. The sheer data the Garmin can run is astounding, plus all the apps, TrailForks integration, working with phones and other devices, including syncing to my Vado SL, is impressive. And the coach feature for training is overkill amazing.

The RedShift is a great deal for anyone riding on rough roads, or who gets carple tunnel, or just sore hands, and gel gloves aren't getting it done. I wouldn't put it on every bike, but on a fitness e-bike, it's a great investment. It's not quite the same as the Future Shock, a little different, and similar, but it is a great device, succeeding where others have failed.
 
A couple comments on Wahoo vs. Garmin. I found that Apple people have a little more affinity towards the Wahoo, and I agree with Stefan, the Bolt v2 is the way to go. I think the Wahoo interface is a little more streamlined, though both can be programmed, in fact, lots of open source third party stuff on Garmin. I also think the Wahoo is a little easier to see in shifting sunlight. It's just such a great, practical bike computer that will do everything most people want, and then some.
My problem in contemplating any change is that my history is so much invested in Garmin products, which I have been using exclusively since the first civilian GPS units were made available (I remember one with a 1.5" screen that I mounted on my motorcycle). I bought the very first version of the Forerunner running watches -- the FR101 -- as soon as it came out in 2003 and have owned a series of Forerunners and Edges since then. I no longer run but still use my FR645 as a smartwatch and I have an Edge 1030 Plus for biking. So for many years, all of my runs and rides have been uploaded to Garmin Connect and I can look there for all sorts of historical data or to look at a route that I maybe rode 10 years ago!

There are a number of bugs and shortcomings in some of the Garmin products, but at this point I'm just too old to make big changes and learn a totally new way of doing things... :)
 
Hey All, Few questions; Can a larger chainring be fit to the SL? 48t for example? Can the extended battery be used to charge the main battery? Also, if you were to stop halfway on whatever you would deem a moderate hill, would you be able to bike up it with assist? Fitness level varies of course, but just curious in general if its a bear to stop and start on hills like some heavier bikes.
 
Can a larger chainring be fit to the SL? 48t for example?
Yes, a 48T 104 BCD chainring will fit Vado SL. The diameter of the 48T chainring is exactly of the size of a 44T chainguard. (I own a spare 48T chainring and have just checked the fit).

Can the extended battery be used to charge the main battery?
No, and nobody does it that way. If one wants to use a RE on the ride, the RE is just being put into a vertical water-bottle-cage (Specialized Zee Cage II Left) and then you connect the battery to the e-bike's charging socket with the 220 mm SL Road Cable. Two scenarios are possible: a. Discharge the Range Extender first or b. Discharge both batteries equally.

The RE alone weighs just 2.2 lbs and it can be easily carried in a backpack in case of multiple Range Extenders.

Also, if you were to stop halfway on whatever you would deem a moderate hill, would you be able to bike up it with assist? Fitness level varies of course, but just curious in general if its a bear to stop and start on hills like some heavier bikes.
It is perfectly doable. There is an easy technique to: a. Use the shifter to downshift thrice on a stationary bike b. Raise the rear of the bike a little by the saddle with right hand and activate Walk Mode with the left hand. The crank will spin, the rear wheel will spin, too, and the downshift will occur on a stationary bike. It is possible to downshift all the way to the granny gear! (I was doing that on my mountain rides after he stop in the middle of the hill to take a photo).

Of course, the lighter weight of the e-bike helps. (I must be very honest: Vado 5.0 with a small chainring has always been my mountain road choice because of twice as powerful motor).

If you are planning to ride Vado SL in montane area, I recommend replacing the standard 44T chainring with a 38T or even a 36T one. Forum member @Rás Cnoic can share his experiences.

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After climbing the sixth mountain pass on the day. Full power Vado 5.0, 38T chainring.
 
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Yes, a 48T 104 BCD chainring will fit Vado SL. The diameter of the 48T chainring is exactly of the size of a 44T chainguard. (I own a spare 48T chainring and have just checked the fit).


No, and nobody does it that way. If one wants to use a RE on the ride, the RE is just being put into a vertical water-bottle-cage (Specialized Zee Cage II Left) and connect the battery to the e-bike's charging socket with the 220 mm SL Road Cable. Two scenarios are possible: a. Discharge the Range Extender first or b. Discharge both batteries equally.

The RE alone weighs just 2.2 lbs and it can be easily carried in a backpack in case of multiple Range Extenders.


It is perfectly doable. There is an easy technique to: a. Use the shifter to downshift thrice on a stationary bike b. Raise the rear of the bike a little by the saddle with right hand and activate Walk Mode. The crank will spin, the rear wheel will spin, too, and the downshift will occur on a stationary bike. It is possible to downshift all the way to the granny gear! (I was doing that on my mountain rides after he stop in the middle of the hill to take a photo).

Of course, the lighter weight of the e-bike helps. (I must be very honest: Vado 5.0 with a small chainring has always been my mountain road choice because of twice as powerful motor).

If you are planning to ride Vado SL in montane area, I recommend replacing the standard 44T chainring with a 38T or even a 36T one. Forum member @Rás Cnoic can share his experiences. Oh interesting RE smaller chainring.. Thank you @Stefan Mikes!
 
@Gee_Whiz, some additional comments:
Traditional cyclists have somewhat easier life, as they can use double- or triple chainrings. A roadie uses a huge 50T chainring on the flat or downhill, and, e.g., a 36T chainring uphill. We cannot do it with most of mid-drive e-bikes as we are bound to 1x drive-train.

Therefore, there's a lot to think of and decide. For instance, I'm pretty happy with the 44T chainring on my Vado SL as I ride it in a flat area, with overpasses being the most significant climbs here in Central Mazovia, Poland. Oh, no. There is ONE significant hill here with 10% grade: I really struggled to climb it in SL Turbo Mode and 44-36T gearing :)

Using my full power Vado, I can use anything from 42T to 48T for chainring in my area. I prefer the 42T as it gives me a good climbing capability (these overpasses!), great acceleration, and max assisted speed of 45 km/h (28 mph) at high but manageable cadence.

However, mountain rides with even 19% grade climbs called for the full power Vado with the chainring reduced to 38T. On such trips, I was either climbing or coasting downhill -- nothing in between really :)

Replacing a chainring is easy if you have done it at least once but I would not do it everyday :)
 
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