Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

I mounted Teravail Cumberland 2.6 tires on the 25mm rims today (yes the Tero comes with skinny 25mm rims for some reason).

I've had my Tero 5.0 for a few weeks now and have put 300+ miles on it. Something has always felt a bit off when it comes to comfort/performance on my usual gravel trail commute.

I feel like the Ground Control tires slide around too much, and I've almost spilled doing a simple slow u-turn. I also didn't think they were giving enough comfort. They are set up tubeless and I've tried different air pressures. I just think these tires are "ok" at everything, but dusty crushed gravel is their weakest point.

After doing a bunch of research I found the Tero can fit 2.6 tires, and the Teravail Cumberlands look like good gravel tires for the Summer. They have small tight spaced knobs down the center, which should be good for gravel and pavement, with large wide spaced knobs on the outside for cornering bite.

I took off the front tire and thought "wow this rim is narrow for an EMTB". I looked at the bike specs online, and yes for some reason this bike comes with only 25mm rims. Somehow I overlooked that spec.

I was hesitant about mounting 2.6 tires onto 25mm rims, but I've read many people doing it without issues... and many people preferring that setup. I have to expect the tire profile to be a bit more rounded than it would be with a wider rim.

The tires did mount very snuggly and seated on the first try. I took it for a slow short ride to work the sealant around. These tires already feel more "supple". I'll be going on a longer test ride later today. Fingers crossed they work out as planned. I also think they look good on this bike.

On a side note, the Ground Controls are very light and get good reviews. I'm wondering if they would perform better with wider rims.

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When you have that much battery/weight, wouldn't it just be better to run the regular vado on a lower assistance level. Isn't the battery 700wh?
It is not that easy at it seems.

I definitely need a spare Vado battery for long adventurous rides. Medium assistance level such as 45/45% allows me covering pretty long distances in a reasonable time, so I wouldn't pedal myself to death. However, it is problematic because... Think of a full weekend ride with an overnight stay at a hotel. I need a heavy spare battery, tools, drinks, a charger, and warmer clothes for the evening. It all makes the Vado heavy. The issue is, it is not that easy to travel by commuter trains to the ride start point with a heavily loaded (and heavy itself) e-bike. The removable battery is good: I can store my Vado battery-less in the hotel basement and recharge the batteries at the hotel room. NB: The batteries are nominally 604 Wh but because of their degradation, each of them holds the charge of 500 Wh only.
I can see riding with a range extender, but just wondering if I needed 2-3 range extenders, why not ride an ebike with more assistance/battery? Or is it because the Vado SL does better on gravel?
The reason I own as many as 3 Range Extenders is to enable me to ride with my gravel-cycling buddies far and fast. When they get on speed on the pavement, SL Turbo is the only way to match them, and it is only 50% of the big Vado power! And yes, my Vado SL is the only of my e-bikes that handles: pavement + gravel + off-road properly. (There are not many of gravel roads in our Mazovia, so it is typically either the pavement or the forest).

I'd love to ride for my next long full-weekend adventure on my Vado SL but I wouldn't be able to recharge it at the hotel! And, the effort on a 70-mile one-way ride would be significant.
 
When you have that much battery/weight, wouldn't it just be better to run the regular vado on a lower assistance level. Isn't the battery 700wh?

I can see riding with a range extender, but just wondering if I needed 2-3 range extenders, why not ride an ebike with more assistance/battery? Or is it because the Vado SL does better on gravel?
Good questions. For me, on a Creo, base weight would be an important issue. Creo with built in battery is a reasonable weight. With one Range extender, still not a bad overall weight. Even a second extender - manageable. And that is kind of baseline situation. So, an overall lighter bike for many situations. Same for the Vado SL. I'm not dealing with a 10 or 15 pound heavier bike at all times.

But it really does depend on what you or others need.
 
New to the forum, realize this question could also belong elsewhere, but I did a lot of reading through the early pages of this thread and thought these owners might have the best opinions...

There is a 2020 Vado 3.0 for sale nearby. It's used but less than 200 miles, looks brand new. It was advertised as 2019 but apparently when pulling out the manual realized it was a 2020 bought at the end of 2019. They are advertising for 2200$. I was more excited about that price if it was the 2019 with higher end components, but not sure how much I'll completely notice, if I'm honest. Use case is 4ish mile commute to work with significant hills. Then hopefully some longer fun/exercise rides on the weekend.

Do you think the 2200 (or maybe i offer 2000) price would be worth it for this bike? I know the list price was only 2700 but I also think similar bikes seem to have gone up in price and down in availability since that release. But on the flip side I was looking at something like the ride1up 700 for 1700$ish or an entry-level torque sensor bike like a tenways for around that price. I don't mind a little more expensive especially since it seems like I can take it to the original LBS it was sold at, etc. just want to know your opinions on whether it's a fair price or not?

Thanks!
 
The only question from my side: Is the 200 miles confirmed on the display odometer? What about the number of battery re-charges and Battery Health in Mission Control?
 
The only question from my side: Is the 200 miles confirmed on the display odometer? What about the number of battery re-charges and Battery Health in Mission Control?
Thanks - great things to look for. Sounds like it was ridden less than 10x but definitely good to check the odometer. How difficult to check the battery health if the owner doesn't have the app set up?

Assuming battery health is decent and miles are accurate, seem like a good bike/purchase? (Thanks so much for the quick reply!)
 
Thanks - great things to look for. Sounds like it was ridden less than 10x but definitely good to check the odometer. How difficult to check the battery health if the owner doesn't have the app set up?

Assuming battery health is decent and miles are accurate, seem like a good bike/purchase? (Thanks so much for the quick reply!)
You can download Mission Control but you will have to pair it with the bike unless the owner already has it and can show you the info. Mission Control shows total mileage and battery health (number of charges???). The total mileage is stored in the bike. To pair you also need a code usually placed in the manual or otherwise you have to pull out the toptube unit and look for the tag.
 
If you determine @ScruffMcG that the owner indeed rode his Vado a little and the battery is healthy, I would say the offered price is fair. You wouldn't get a new e-bike of that class that cheap nowadays, and you are buying almost a new e-bike minus the valuable warranty of course. Could you check if that Vado has the modern TCD-w display? That is important.

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This is how the display looks like but it will have wires connected to it.

The TCD-w display shows the pairing code when you try to pair your smartphone via Mission Control app.

Make sure you get the battery lock keys with the Abus Plus Code and the charger!
 
If you determine @ScruffMcG that the owner indeed rode his Vado a little and the battery is healthy, I would say the offered price is fair. You wouldn't get a new e-bike of that class that cheap nowadays, and you are buying almost a new e-bike minus the valuable warranty of course. Could you check if that Vado has the modern TCD-w display? That is important.

View attachment 123201
This is how the display looks like but it will have wires connected to it.

The TCD-w display shows the pairing code when you try to pair your smartphone via Mission Control app.

Make sure you get the battery lock keys with the Abus Plus Code and the charger!
Yes that is the display. I went for a quick ride on it yesterday and it was definitely that one and not the bloks. It was raining hard though so it was a very brief first visit. Can definitely ask after mileage and see if by chance they still have the app connected. Thanks again for the helpful replies!
 
New to the forum, realize this question could also belong elsewhere, but I did a lot of reading through the early pages of this thread and thought these owners might have the best opinions...

There is a 2020 Vado 3.0 for sale nearby. It's used but less than 200 miles, looks brand new. It was advertised as 2019 but apparently when pulling out the manual realized it was a 2020 bought at the end of 2019. They are advertising for 2200$. I was more excited about that price if it was the 2019 with higher end components, but not sure how much I'll completely notice, if I'm honest. Use case is 4ish mile commute to work with significant hills. Then hopefully some longer fun/exercise rides on the weekend.

Do you think the 2200 (or maybe i offer 2000) price would be worth it for this bike? I know the list price was only 2700 but I also think similar bikes seem to have gone up in price and down in availability since that release. But on the flip side I was looking at something like the ride1up 700 for 1700$ish or an entry-level torque sensor bike like a tenways for around that price. I don't mind a little more expensive especially since it seems like I can take it to the original LBS it was sold at, etc. just want to know your opinions on whether it's a fair price or not?

Thanks!
If milage and usage is correct, that is a fair deal. Vado's are difficult to find around here.
 
Time for some lower gears on the Vado. View attachment 123312

Did a 65-mile ride today with about ~4,000 feet of climbing; the 51-tooth is really nice for the hills I ride in in southwest Wisconsin.
Or you can get a Praxis 36t chain ring and don't have to extend the chain and will probably work with the current chain length and move your cog engagement 2 rings closer to inline with the front chainring. Probably easier on the chain also. The perceived power increase because of the leverage advantage is noticeable also. If you have the oem aluminum chainring I wouldn't hesitate to change it out for the steel Praxis.
 
I did contemplate a smaller chainring, Marcela and Stefan- and wouldn’t be opposed to going that route.
My idea of going with a bigger rear cassette was to get some lower gear inches, but not lose any on the top.
Realistically, the amount of time I spend in Turbo roaring around at 28 MPH 🙂 is pretty limited, so I think a smaller crank ring would suit me just fine.
 
I did contemplate a smaller chainring, Marcela and Stefan- and wouldn’t be opposed to going that route.
My idea of going with a bigger rear cassette was to get some lower gear inches, but not lose any on the top.
Realistically, the amount of time I spend in Turbo roaring around at 28 MPH 🙂 is pretty limited, so I think a smaller crank ring would suit me just fine.
You already own the wide-range cassette. Please make some calculations with bikecalc.com to determine the ideal chainring size for your needs. While I must use the 38-46T in the mountains, I love the 42T chainring here in the plains, as I can hit 25 mph with good cadence but still the low gears are adequate for occasional hills in the greater area where I'm riding.
 
I did contemplate a smaller chainring, Marcela and Stefan- and wouldn’t be opposed to going that route.
My idea of going with a bigger rear cassette was to get some lower gear inches, but not lose any on the top.
Realistically, the amount of time I spend in Turbo roaring around at 28 MPH 🙂 is pretty limited, so I think a smaller crank ring would suit me just fine.
Your last sentence was my conclusion. Also the smaller chainring will reduce the cog tooth spacing slightly so there is not as much of a jump from one to the other on cadence. With my 36t cog I can easily do 20 mph and usually cruise around at the 10-15 range. If you are a 48t chain ring now the difference is very noticeable, if you're 40t not so much and going with the different cogs would probably be better.
 
Yesterday we had some calm wind and I was out on the Como so I made some observations, with the tires low on pressure and the 36t chainring.

On the flat cruising around at 12-14 mph was pretty easy, the lever arm of the crank with the smaller chainring I think may give 1-2 mph. At around 16-17 mph wind resistance starts to be noticed. At full power and 90 cadence on the flat gives about 22-23 mph.

With this in mind, a 40t chainring may be optimum if wanting more top end. But I still like the 36t pretty well. 38t would probably be a good choice also. I don't see any need for the 48t, the motors can't use it imo.
 
Finally had my work/vacation schedule and the weather align. First bike commute to work today on the Vado. By car, it’s 5 miles/10 minutes. By bike, it was 7.5 miles/25 minutes to go through almost all protected bike lane.

47 F when I left, 66 F when I returned. Such a beautiful sunny day. Flowers in bloom. It was wonderful and worth the extra time. Now I don’t need a separate workout tonight. Super happy with my purchase and glad I’m doing this. Happy riding all!
 
I was curious about gearing, knowing that the smaller chain ring closes the gap between the cogs compared to a larger chain ring so went to bikecalc.com and did some playing around.

If a person could have 15 cogs at the rear spaced 11,12,13,15,17,19,21,24,27,30,34,38,42,46,52--he would have everything covered, that is pretty much optimal spacing on the cogs for my input of 80-90 cadence. So a person could pick which end of the gearing he wanted to emphasize. The difference at the bottom end is really not to great, it is when you get into the 11,12,13 cogs that things are magnified, like cadence difference between gears, especially considering the difference between a 36 and 48t chainring.

See if I can post a link or screen shot.


How fast will I be going at 80-90 rpm in these gears?
CadenceGear8090Cadence Gear
36x1121.0223.6536x11
36x1219.2821.6936x12
36x1317.8120.0336x13
36x1515.4317.3636x15
36x1713.6315.3336x17
36x1912.1513.6736x19
36x2110.9912.3736x21
36x249.6410.8536x24
36x278.559.6236x27
36x307.718.6836x30
36x346.817.6736x34
36x386.116.8736x38
36x425.536.2236x42
36x465.015.6436x46
38x1122.1824.9538x11
38x1220.3822.9238x12
38x1318.7721.1238x13
38x1516.2618.3038x15
38x1714.4016.2038x17
38x1912.8614.4638x19
38x2111.6313.0938x21
38x2410.1611.4338x24
38x279.0610.2038x27
38x308.169.1838x30
38x347.208.1038x34
38x386.437.2338x38
38x425.796.5138x42
38x465.346.0038x46
40x1123.4026.3240x11
40x1221.4024.0840x12
40x1319.8022.2740x13
40x1517.1619.3140x15
40x1715.1116.9940x17
40x1913.5615.2640x19
40x2112.2113.7440x21
40x2410.7312.0840x24
40x279.5110.7040x27
40x308.559.6240x30
40x347.588.5340x34
40x386.757.5940x38
40x426.116.8740x42
40x465.596.2940x46
48x1128.0331.5348x11
48x1225.7128.9348x12
48x1323.7226.6848x13
48x1520.5723.1448x15
48x1718.1320.3948x17
48x1916.2618.3048x19
48x2114.7216.5648x21
48x2412.8614.4648x24
48x2711.4412.8748x27
48x3010.2811.5748x30
48x349.0610.2048x34
48x388.109.1148x38
48x427.338.2448x42
48x466.687.5248x46
Colors group similar values. 20+ is green, 10ish-20, blue, and below 10, red.
 
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