Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

[Nxkharra]

Using a work stand does make it easier. In the field you want to keep the drive train out of the dirt. I put the kickstand down and position the bike near something it can lean against (tree, bench, etc). Start by shifting to the smallest cog on the cassette. Then standing at the rear of the bike turn the derailleur clutch to off and remove the through axle with one hand while supporting the bike with the other. Next extend the derailleur fully with one hand while pulling the wheel out with the other (this takes a bit of 'jiggling' and leaning the bike into its nearby tree or whatever). Leave the bike supported on its kickstand and tree and make the repair. Reverse the process to install the wheel.

The process is a bit awkward at first but gets easier with experience.

BTW - Your hands are going to get a bit grimey. I carry a couple of individually packaged degreaser wipes to clean up after a field repair. Grease Monkey wipes are my preferred brand, though the individual packs are getting hard to find. In the shop I keep a spray bottle of an 'orange' degreaser and paper shop towels around for this.

Thanks. I have ordered the tool set and as soon as I get it I will attempt to replace the tires.

 

[TMH]

...I ordered the same tool set... If good for Stefan then good for me.

I thought the same thing!

Then I remembered that I had a small torque wrench from Brownell's, used for gunsmithing jobs. Seems like it will fit the bill, and I don't have to pay for another one.

But now I will have to convert everything from newton-meters to inch-pounds.

 

[Marcela]

With the information provided earlier in this thread, I made some changes to my 5.0. I'll list them all here and maybe somebody can use the info.

Thudbuster LT Seatpost, 30.9 x 400mm
Deity Highside 760 50mm Rise Handlebar stealth
Shimano XT SM-RT76 6 bolt rotor 203mm
Shimano F203P/P Disc brake Adapter
Salsa Lip Lock Seat Collar 35mm

With the above you can convert your Vado to a boulevard cruiser.

I installed the 203mm rotors on front and back. You use the adapter listed above for front and back, the back is installed with 'up' pointing down, and some carving must be done to clear the frame on the extended portion, file if you got all day or hand grinder makes quick work.

The handlebar rise really makes a difference, they are too long so much be shorted 1.5" on each side to match or your choice.

Thudbuster, what can I say, suspension at its finest. Does increase reach a little.

When you remove the stock rotors you better get an impact driver like you use a hammer on, or some call it manual. The locks they use are crazy, plus there are serrations on the underside of the fasteners. If you are not familiar with using the impact you might let someone who is do it, you mess one of those fasteners up and you'll regret it forever, you'll probably need some adapters to get down to the torx T25 I believe it is. I didn't reuse the locks.

The seat post clamp Specialized uses is pretty small, the Salsa liplock is much better suited for clamping the smooth tube of the Thudbuster.

Also installed Schrader valve tire tubes, drill out the presta holes with a size 'S' drill bit, whatever that is. Make sure to shake out or be careful with all the aluminum chips.

Good luck and good riding!

 

[Sierratim]

With the information provided earlier in this thread, I made some changes to my 5.0. I'll list them all here and maybe somebody can use the info.

Thudbuster LT Seatpost, 30.9 x 40mm
Deity Highside 760 50mm Rise Handlebar stealth
Shimano XT SM-RT76 6 bolt rotor 203mm
Shimano F203P/P Disc brake Adapter
Salsa Lip Lock Seat Collar 35mm

With the above you can convert your Vado to a boulevard cruiser.

I installed the 203mm rotors on front and back. You use the adapter listed above for front and back, the back is installed with 'up' pointing down, and some carving must be done to clear the frame on the extended portion, file if you got all day or hand grinder makes quick work.

The handlebar rise really makes a difference, they are too long so much be shorted 1.5" on each side to match or your choice.

Thudbuster, what can I say, suspension at its finest. Does increase reach a little.

When you remove the stock rotors you better get an impact driver like you use a hammer on, or some call it manual. The locks they use are crazy, plus there are serrations on the underside of the fasteners. If you are not familiar with using the impact you might let someone who is do it, you mess one of those fasteners up and you'll regret it forever, you'll probably need some adapters to get down to the torx T25 I believe it is. I didn't reuse the locks.

The seat post clamp Specialized uses is pretty small, the Salsa liplock is much better suited for clamping the smooth tube of the Thudbuster.

Also installed Schrader valve tire tubes, drill out the presta holes with a size 'S' drill bit, whatever that is. Make sure to shake out or be careful with all the aluminum chips.

Good luck and good riding!

Nice.

Are you reusing the stock brake pads? Did you notice a lip on the rear pads? Mine had developed a 1+mm lip as the frame mounts are a bit too high. I corrected this by filing down the adapter a bit. No more lip.

I do like my 203mm rotor upgrade. I moved the stock 180mm rotor to the rear, replacing the original 160mm rotor. This avoided any clearance issues but does need a different adapter, also mounted with the 'UP' arrow pointing down. I was sure to apply blue (removeable) locktite to all the rotor and caliper fasteners.

Happy riding!

 

[Marcela]

Nice.

Are you reusing the stock brake pads? Did you notice a lip on the rear pads? Mine had developed a 1+mm lip as the frame mounts are a bit too high. I corrected this by filing down the adapter a bit. No more lip.

I do like my 203mm rotor upgrade. I moved the stock 180mm rotor to the rear, replacing the original 160mm rotor. This avoided any clearance issues but does need a different adapter, also mounted with the 'UP' arrow pointing down. I was sure to apply blue (removeable) locktite to all the rotor and caliper fasteners.

Happy riding!

I used some of your posting to make my change, thanks!

Yes, stock brake pads. My pads overshoot the disc on the front a very little, less to almost perfect on the rear with the 203mm discs. Didn't really look at them before the change. Not a big deal unless the pads wear to the point the material starts to touch. Easy to take off by scrubbing across concrete or something similar. These guys design this stuff then don't take into consideration the anodization adds some material, seen it before.

The 203mm rotors front and back are a big difference btw.

 

[Sierratim]

I used some of your posting to make my change, thanks!

Yes, stock brake pads. My pads overshoot the disc on the front a very little, less to almost perfect on the rear with the 203mm discs. Didn't really look at them before the change. Not a big deal unless the pads wear to the point the material starts to touch. Easy to take off by scrubbing across concrete or something similar. These guys design this stuff then don't take into consideration the anodization adds some material, seen it before.

The 203mm rotors front and back are a big difference btw.

Glad I could help!

I'm certainly happy with the improved braking power, esp with local hills.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I would be happy to have rotors larger than 180 mm in my Vado but I don't feel competent to replace them myself. Perhaps my LBS could do the work for me.
Short impression on the Baramind BAM Trek handlebars. While by no means a replacement for a good suspension fork, the bars do the work very well. In a rough terrain such as damaged blacktop or gravel, you can firmly hold the grips of the handlebars without having your body shaken. It is a good complement for the sus fork, not the replacement.

 

[coffeemaker]

I would be happy to have rotors larger than 180 mm in my Vado but I don't feel competent to replace them myself. Perhaps my LBS could do the work for me.

It should be very straightforward. You'll need a 160mm to 203mm brake adapter like this one if you're going with Shimano brakes: https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-F203PP-Disc-Brake-Adapter
The Shimano RT66 203mm rotor or even Ice Tech rotors would work well. One concern would be whether the Suntour E25 fork can handle the higher force: https://www.srsuntour.com/en/US/products/fork/NEX-E25-5904.html

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Thank you for your advice, friends!

 

[Nxkharra]

Using a work stand does make it easier. In the field you want to keep the drive train out of the dirt. I put the kickstand down and position the bike near something it can lean against (tree, bench, etc). Start by shifting to the smallest cog on the cassette. Then standing at the rear of the bike turn the derailleur clutch to off and remove the through axle with one hand while supporting the bike with the other. Next extend the derailleur fully with one hand while pulling the wheel out with the other (this takes a bit of 'jiggling' and leaning the bike into its nearby tree or whatever). Leave the bike supported on its kickstand and tree and make the repair. Reverse the process to install the wheel.

The process is a bit awkward at first but gets easier with experience.

BTW - Your hands are going to get a bit grimey. I carry a couple of individually packaged degreaser wipes to clean up after a field repair. Grease Monkey wipes are my preferred brand, though the individual packs are getting hard to find. In the shop I keep a spray bottle of an 'orange' degreaser and paper shop towels around for this.

@Sierratim and @Stefan Mikes thank you for help and encouragement. I just changed my Vado 5 tires to new Schwalbe Marathon E Plus. And also new Schwalbe inter tube.
Very easy on the front tire. The rear was more challenging specially putting the wheel back on. Still is a mystery to me when it clicks and aligns. But it did. Took the bike out for a short test ride. Very solid, heavier, and not as lively as the original tires. But it should have a better grip and better puncture protection which is my major objective.
@Stefan Mikes I don’t have my Pro Bike Tool you recommended but was able to use my carry tool. When I receive the tool I make sure I have tightened the axle to the standard (15Nm).
The Park Tool PRS 25 stand really made it much easier to do this job.
Park Tool Handlebar holder (HBH-2) was also helpful to keep the front wheel from wobbling.
@Sierratim I have ordered individual hand cleaner but don’t have them yet. You were correct Grease Monkey individual packets are hard to find so I ordered RIDOF from Amazon for the road.
I have good lube purpose disposable gloves so at home I am OK.
Also cleaned the chain, cassette, and other components using Finish Line Gear Floss and it worked well.
I feel like I am advertising various brands here. I am not.
Question: there is small rubber tube on a rear derailleur protecting a piece of metal sticking out. Might be to keep the noise down???
Are you familiar with this and the purpose of it? It is almost melting so I need to get a new one. It poppers out when I was cleaning and easy to put back.
I have a picture bellow. Not sure if it shows it clearly. See last picture with red arrow
I also have few other pics to show the progress.
thanks again guys.

 

[Sierratim]

@Sierratim and @Stefan Mikes thank you for help and encouragement. I just changed my Vado 5 tires to new Schwalbe Marathon E Plus. And also new Schwalbe inter tube.
Very easy on the front tire. The rear was more challenging specially putting the wheel back on. Still is a mystery to me when it clicks and aligns. But it did. Took the bike out for a short test ride. Very solid, heavier, and not as lively as the original tires. But it should have a better grip and better puncture protection which is my major objective.
@Stefan Mikes I don’t have my Pro Bike Tool you recommended but was able to use my carry tool. When I receive the tool I make sure I have tightened the axle to the standard (15Nm).
The Park Tool PRS 25 stand really made it much easier to do this job.
Park Tool Handlebar holder (HBH-2) was also helpful to keep the front wheel from wobbling.
@Sierratim I have ordered individual hand cleaner but don’t have them yet. You were correct Grease Monkey individual packets are hard to find so I ordered RIDOF from Amazon for the road.
I have good lube purpose disposable gloves so at home I am OK.
Also cleaned the chain, cassette, and other components using Finish Line Gear Floss and it worked well.
I feel like I am advertising various brands here. I am not.
Question: there is small rubber tube on a rear derailleur protecting a piece of metal sticking out. Might be to keep the noise down???
Are you familiar with this and the purpose of it? It is almost melting so I need to get a new one. It poppers out when I was cleaning and easy to put back.
I have a picture bellow. Not sure if it shows it clearly. See last picture with red arrow
I also have few other pics to show the progress.
thanks again guys.

And another homebrew bike mechanic is born!

There is some magic in getting the rear wheel on and of, but it all seems to have worked out.

I do like the Ridof wipes, sounds like they'll do the job. BTW - I did recently buy a small quantity of the Grease Monkey individual wipes in boxes of 12. I only wanted another box or two, but had to buy the whole lot to get a decent price. I will be offering the extras at cost ($6.50 plus shipping) in the For Sale section of this forum as well as Ebay if anyone cares.

I couldn't open the derailleur pic but took a look at mine. Both of our Vados have the metal pin, but no rubber tube on either. I'm guessing the pin is a stop with the rubber tube being used in shipment to keep the pin from scratching the derailleur body before it's installed, but just a guess. The pin doesn't touch the derailleur body on either of our bikes through the full range of motion.

 

[Sierratim]

@Sierratim and @Stefan Mikes thank you for help and encouragement. I just changed my Vado 5 tires to new Schwalbe Marathon E Plus. And also new Schwalbe inter tube.
Very easy on the front tire. The rear was more challenging specially putting the wheel back on. Still is a mystery to me when it clicks and aligns. But it did. Took the bike out for a short test ride. Very solid, heavier, and not as lively as the original tires. But it should have a better grip and better puncture protection which is my major objective.
@Stefan Mikes I don’t have my Pro Bike Tool you recommended but was able to use my carry tool. When I receive the tool I make sure I have tightened the axle to the standard (15Nm).
The Park Tool PRS 25 stand really made it much easier to do this job.
Park Tool Handlebar holder (HBH-2) was also helpful to keep the front wheel from wobbling.
@Sierratim I have ordered individual hand cleaner but don’t have them yet. You were correct Grease Monkey individual packets are hard to find so I ordered RIDOF from Amazon for the road.
I have good lube purpose disposable gloves so at home I am OK.
Also cleaned the chain, cassette, and other components using Finish Line Gear Floss and it worked well.
I feel like I am advertising various brands here. I am not.
Question: there is small rubber tube on a rear derailleur protecting a piece of metal sticking out. Might be to keep the noise down???
Are you familiar with this and the purpose of it? It is almost melting so I need to get a new one. It poppers out when I was cleaning and easy to put back.
I have a picture bellow. Not sure if it shows it clearly. See last picture with red arrow
I also have few other pics to show the progress.
thanks again guys.

Forgot to mention how much I like your shop; tile floors and all! Its probably got heat, too? I'm lucky to get a cold concrete slab...

 

[Nxkharra]

And another homebrew bike mechanic is born!

There is some magic in getting the rear wheel on and of, but it all seems to have worked out.

I do like the Ridof wipes, sounds like they'll do the job. BTW - I did recently buy a small quantity of the Grease Monkey individual wipes in boxes of 12. I only wanted another box or two, but had to buy the whole lot to get a decent price. I will be offering the extras at cost ($6.50 plus shipping) in the For Sale section of this forum as well as Ebay if anyone cares.

I couldn't open the derailleur pic but took a look at mine. Both of our Vados have the metal pin, but no rubber tube on either. I'm guessing the pin is a stop with the rubber tube being used in shipment to keep the pin from scratching the derailleur body before it's installed, but just a guess. The pin doesn't touch the derailleur body on either of our bikes through the full range of motion.

Thanks @Sierratim here is another pic of the pin and rubber cover.
I think you are correct in it is a stop of some sort. Do I need the rubber? Leave it on?

 

[Sierratim]

Thanks @Sierratim here is another pic of the pin and rubber cover.
I think you are correct in it is a stop of some sort. Do I need the rubber? Leave it on?

The rubber on the metal pin is actually to the right of the red arrow, correct? Our pins don't have a rubber cover. There are no scratches on the derailleurs from the uncovered pin hitting the body of the derailleur so I suspect the pin (with cover) is a stop that's useful before the derailleur is installed. You can ask your LBS, but I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[Nxkharra]

The rubber on the metal pin is actually to the right of the red arrow, correct? Our pins don't have a rubber cover. There are no scratches on the derailleurs from the uncovered pin hitting the body of the derailleur so I suspect the pin (with cover) is a stop that's useful before the derailleur is installed. You can ask your LBS, but I wouldn't worry about it.

Correct @Sierratim I placed the arrow in the wrong place. Here is other pics of the pin and without cover and the cover.

 

[Deacon Blues]

I just bought a pair of handlebar jacks. It's much, much easier to work on an ebike, epecially if it's a hub drive, when the bike is upside down.

 

[Nxkharra]

I just bought a pair of handlebar jacks. It's much, much easier to work on an ebike, epecially if it's a hub drive, when the bike is upside down.

What are these called and where did you buy them. Might be a good thing to carry if you need to fix something like flat in the road without hurting the handlebar

 

[Nxkharra]

I just bought a pair of handlebar jacks. It's much, much easier to work on an ebike, epecially if it's a hub drive, when the bike is upside down.

I found it and ordered a pair. Thanks for the good idea.

 

[Nxkharra]

@Nxkharra, you do own a work stand, which will help a lot. Don't be worried, you can do the work yourself. Only disengage the Shadow clutch in the derailleur before you remove the rear wheel.

Completely unrelated to the wheel change:
I learned to love the torque wrench during the handlebars' swap. The stem and the brake/shifter levers required 6 Nm and other levers needed the 2 Nm torque. (The grips just need an Allen key and are fastened by feeling, same with the mirrors). The motor remote needs a T8 Torx wrench (I have got one in a form of a screwdriver). Incidentally, I was able to destroy the Knog Oi bell that requires minimum torque when fastening.... Arrrgh!

View attachment 48990

@Stefan Mikes I received the Pro Bike Tool yesterday. Seems like a quality product. I have checked the torque on various areas where I had just used my carry tool to tighten including the axles. All now meet the recommended Nm. Hope I am doing it correctly.
I have add d this tool set to the collection of bike STUFF that I have because I just like to have them and might not need them...haha
Thanks again for recommendation.
btw my son mentioned he has now ruined two carbon seat posts not using torque wrench. He wanted to adjust his carbon handlebar but was afraid to use the regular wrench based on his previous experience. The tool might come handy for him soon.

 

[Sierratim]

@Stefan Mikes I received the Pro Bike Tool yesterday. Seems like a quality product. I have checked the torque on various areas where I had just used my carry tool to tighten including the axles. All now meet the recommended Nm. Hope I am doing it correctly.
I have add d this tool set to the collection of bike STUFF that I have because I just like to have them and might not need them...haha
Thanks again for recommendation.
btw my son mentioned he has now ruined two carbon seat posts not using torque wrench. He wanted to adjust his carbon handlebar but was afraid to use the regular wrench based on his previous experience. The tool might come handy for him soon.

My sons had the same experience in their early MTB racing 'careers'. Saved up their $ and added a torque wrench to the tool set I had gotten them.

BTW - torque settings are most accurate if the fastener threads have minimum friction when assembled. An anti-sieze lube or quality grease is fine for some (pedals,...). Blue threadlock works for others (brake rotors,...). Assembling dry fasteners is at the mercy of the thread friction. You won't know the real torque at the mechanical joint.