Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

I have NV base and it works great, you can buy some tie downs just in case, and strap the front down, I have never had problem with my bikes and the rack but when I head up to the mountains long distance, I strap them just in case.
Thank you for this! Do you use the place the front clamp over the fender near the fork, or do you tighten it down over the tire just outside of the fender? Good call on the additional tie downs... probably good for my peace of mind for the first trip at least.
 
Specialized appear an international organisation nowadays. The engineering being done in Switzerland, the frames being made in Taiwan. The EU Certificate of Conformity for my Vado is signed by a person of Chinese name. It seems that Specialized (as Giant) supply different markets with different models, especially as bike laws are so different on different continents. For example, the only Speed models of Turbo Vado in Europe are the 5.0 and 6.0. These are equipped with all-day lighting, a horn, a number plate support integrated with the tail-light, and a rear-view mirror, all per Euro law requirements.


The 2020 Vado 6.0 is available in Europe. For you better understanding, the price is US$5455.
View attachment 45542


My own words! What a feeling to ride at 40 km/h on a good tarmac and no noise! All you hear is the tyres hum on the blacktop. The other bike with the hub motor is almost as silent but there is a quiet whistling from the motor when it is spinning up (it is silent later), which is irritating a little. The other bike also feels somewhat heavy on riding it. Not the case with the Vado in the Sport mode.
I too love the silence of my Brose motor powered bicycle. After all it is the silence of an electric powered bike being one of the reasons I ride electric. I have had a couple of grinding/noisy, surging electric bikes so really appreciate the smooth silent Brose system. I have a 400cc motor scooter too and use it to go great distances and love riding it, but when I want peace and silence I ride the bike.
 
Thank you for this! Do you use the place the front clamp over the fender near the fork, or do you tighten it down over the tire just outside of the fender? Good call on the additional tie downs... probably good for my peace of mind for the first trip at least.
I have done both but like close to the fork and shock better, good luck
 
Vado 6.0: Redshift ShockStop Endurance Seat-Post (30.9 x 400 mm) and Praxis EC-SBC-165A E-Cranks

Redshift Sports now offer their suspension seat-post in four standard diameters and in several lengths as well as three types. (The brand must have understood that, say, a 27.2 mm diameter seatpost with a shim for 30.9 seat-tube was not the most competitive of ideas, so they now make a full assortment of suspension seat-posts).

Following the damage of my Cirrus Cycles Kinekt 2.1 suspension seat-post (which I was unable to repair so far), I ordered a new Redshift ShockStop suspension seat-post in size 30.9 x 400 mm. I was not sure whether that would work at all! The frame on my Vado 6.0 is not typical: it is a Step-Thru size S. My body build is short legs with a long torso and arms. Therefore, there was a balance between a very short space inside the seat-tube (to the junction with the frame top tube), and a long seat post. Necessary to mention the ShockStop has a big Minimum Insertion Length of 100 mm, and the post cannot be trimmed as its bottom part holds the spring assembly.

The initial measurement proved the seatpost size choice was proper. As always, the devil was in the details. As I completed installing the greased inner spring (that was necessary to accomodate my 100 kg body weight) and reassembled the unit (everything was very easy) as well as installed the saddle, I inserted the seat-post into the seat-tube to the very bottom. Then I turned pale when I found that the saddle height was 72 cm, whereas I needed 71... A saddle being a centimetre too high is a no-go for me.

OK. I took the seat-post out and turned the preload plug at the bottom to the "closed" position, making the seat-post as short as possible. It let me lower the saddle by a half centimetre.

The test ride has proved the new part was rideable. There was a minimal sag when I mounted the e-bike. No bouncing, no pedal-bob and the suspension action was very good even if the saddle was firm. However, my body told me it would feel a way better another half a centimetre lower...

1714073267163.png

The geometry of the e-bike is correct, only I dream of having the lower pedal a tad closer to my foot...

I think I have found a solution. The old cranks are 170 mm. If I install the 165 mm ones, everything should be perfect?

1714073433169.png

I have ordered a set from an online store in Italy for 80 EUR plus shipment. Let us see!

Besides, it looks Praxis Works in the United States has a lot of compatible parts in its online store!

@GuruUno: Didn't you change cranks on one of your Specialized e-bikes? Something I should be aware of?
 
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Vado 6.0: Redshift ShockStop Endurance Seat-Post (30.9 x 400 mm) and Praxis EC-SBC-165A E-Cranks

Redshift Sports now offer their suspension seat-post in four standard diameters and in several lengths as well as three types. (The brand must have understood that, say, a 27.2 mm diameter seatpost with a shim for 30.9 seat-tube was not the most competitive of ideas, so they now make a full assortment of suspension seat-posts).

Following the damage of my Cirrus Cycles Kinekt 2.1 suspension seat-post (which I was unable to repair so far), I ordered a new Redshift ShockStop suspension seat-post in size 30.9 x 400 mm. I was not sure whether that would work at all! The frame on my Vado 6.0 is not typical: it is a Step-Thru size S. My body build is short legs with a long torso and arms. Therefore, there was a balance between a very short space inside the seat-tube (to the junction with the frame top tube), and a long seat post. Necessary to mention the ShockStop has a big Minimum Insertion Length of 100 mm, and the post cannot be trimmed as its bottom part holds the spring assembly.

The initial measurement proved the seatpost size choice was proper. As always, the devil was in the details. As I completed installing the greased inner spring (that was necessary to accomodate my 100 kg body weight) and reassembled the unit (everything was very easy) as well as installed the saddle, I inserted the seat-post into the seat-tube to the very bottom. Then I turned pale when I found that the saddle height was 72 cm, whereas I needed 71... A saddle being a centimetre too high is a no-go for me.

OK. I took the seat-post out and turned the preload plug at the bottom to the "closed" position, making the seat-post as short as possible. It let me lower the saddle by a half centimetre.

The test ride has proved the new part was rideable. There was a minimal sag when I mounted the e-bike. No bouncing, no pedal-bob and the suspension action was very good even if the saddle was firm. However, my body told me it would feel a way better another half a centimetre lower...

View attachment 174658
The geometry of the e-bike is correct, only I dream of having the pedals a tad closer to my feet...
I think I have found a solutions. The old cranks are 170 mm. If I install the 165 mm ones, everything should be perfect?

View attachment 174659
I have ordered a set from an online store in Italy for 80 EUR plus shipment. Let us see!

Besides, it looks Praxis Works in the United States has a lot of compatible parts in its online store!

@GuruUno: Didn't you change cranks on one of your Specialized e-bikes? Something I should be aware of?
Redshift offers the 30.9 diameter in a 350mm length also, and they offer a 90-day satisfaction policy. Unless you have a desire otherwise for shorter cranks, you could reorder in the shorter length.
 
Redshift offers the 30.9 diameter in a 350mm length also, and they offer a 90-day satisfaction policy. Unless you have a desire otherwise for shorter cranks, you could reorder in the shorter length.
A no-go, Ray. The 350 mm seat-post would not ensure the saddle height at 71 cm at all! I did the math :) That extremely shallow part of the seat-tube makes all a little difficult... (FYI, the depth is some 120 mm).
 
A no-go, Ray. The 350 mm seat-post would not ensure the saddle height at 71 cm at all! I did the math :) That extremely shallow part of the seat-tube makes all a little difficult...
Bummer. Looking at the picture I see that the seat-tube is very short on the Vado! On my medium Creo, I can use as short as a 280mm Redshift post, so I hadn’t considered that problem…..but my legs aren’t long either.

It is timely that this subject has come up again. I had a Redshift post on my Trek Allant+ 9.9, and it was a back-saver. While I don’t find the ride nearly as harsh on the Creo, I’ve been considering a suspension post, as I suspect it might help avoid fatigue from vibrations and jolts, even on this bike, particularly the large bumps that I don’t see in advance.

I’ve been caught up in a bit of analysis paralysis the past few days, as they have 3 models at 3 price points, each successively lighter in weight but also different in terms of suspension effect. I’ll probably end up with the lowest cost unit, as I don’t think I’d notice the weight difference, and I was happy with it on my Trek. Its not like I’m racing anyway. It does seem a bit sacrilegious to add this to a relatively lightweight bike, but I’ll get over it. 😂
 
Praxis E-Cranks Replaced On My Vado 6.0!

It required help from my experienced brother to remove the existing drive-side crank from my Vado. It looks there was something wrong with the machining tolerances of the spindle (???) My brother had to use a long automotive wrench (with an 8 mm hex bit) and all his power to make the screw start moving, and it took a lot of effort to extract the crank. While everything on the non-drive side was correct and easy (I could do it with a regular bicycle 8 mm wrench myself I think). Once the cranks were removed, my brother installed the non-drive side crank with a total ease while he was pulling the wrench hard to install the other crank.

He believes the machining error must have surprised a Specialized technician on the Vado rebuild the same as it surprised my brother today. Anyway, both cranks have been tightened to 40 Nm, and I experience no issues with them at all!

I really needed the 165 mm cranks (the originals were 170 mm). My Vado is now at the sweet configuration point. My leg power on the pedals has been regained, and I can sit on the saddle naturally and comfortably. I only wonder what would have happened if I installed 160 mm cranks... Perhaps it would feel even better? Whatever! Done is done, and now I can fully enjoy my Vado after the suspension seat-post replacement!

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The new non-drive side crank.
 
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