Thank you for this! Do you use the place the front clamp over the fender near the fork, or do you tighten it down over the tire just outside of the fender? Good call on the additional tie downs... probably good for my peace of mind for the first trip at least.
Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club
- Thread starter Stefan Mikes
- Start date
I too love the silence of my Brose motor powered bicycle. After all it is the silence of an electric powered bike being one of the reasons I ride electric. I have had a couple of grinding/noisy, surging electric bikes so really appreciate the smooth silent Brose system. I have a 400cc motor scooter too and use it to go great distances and love riding it, but when I want peace and silence I ride the bike.
Te. S
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
I have done both but like close to the fork and shock better, good luck
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Vado 6.0: Redshift ShockStop Endurance Seat-Post (30.9 x 400 mm) and Praxis EC-SBC-165A E-Cranks
Redshift Sports now offer their suspension seat-post in four standard diameters and in several lengths as well as three types. (The brand must have understood that, say, a 27.2 mm diameter seatpost with a shim for 30.9 seat-tube was not the most competitive of ideas, so they now make a full assortment of suspension seat-posts).
Following the damage of my Cirrus Cycles Kinekt 2.1 suspension seat-post (which I was unable to repair so far), I ordered a new Redshift ShockStop suspension seat-post in size 30.9 x 400 mm. I was not sure whether that would work at all! The frame on my Vado 6.0 is not typical: it is a Step-Thru size S. My body build is short legs with a long torso and arms. Therefore, there was a balance between a very short space inside the seat-tube (to the junction with the frame top tube), and a long seat post. Necessary to mention the ShockStop has a big Minimum Insertion Length of 100 mm, and the post cannot be trimmed as its bottom part holds the spring assembly.
The initial measurement proved the seatpost size choice was proper. As always, the devil was in the details. As I completed installing the greased inner spring (that was necessary to accomodate my 100 kg body weight) and reassembled the unit (everything was very easy) as well as installed the saddle, I inserted the seat-post into the seat-tube to the very bottom. Then I turned pale when I found that the saddle height was 72 cm, whereas I needed 71... A saddle being a centimetre too high is a no-go for me.
OK. I took the seat-post out and turned the preload plug at the bottom to the "closed" position, making the seat-post as short as possible. It let me lower the saddle by a half centimetre.
The test ride has proved the new part was rideable. There was a minimal sag when I mounted the e-bike. No bouncing, no pedal-bob and the suspension action was very good even if the saddle was firm. However, my body told me it would feel a way better another half a centimetre lower...
The geometry of the e-bike is correct, only I dream of having the lower pedal a tad closer to my foot...
I think I have found a solution. The old cranks are 170 mm. If I install the 165 mm ones, everything should be perfect?
I have ordered a set from an online store in Italy for 80 EUR plus shipment. Let us see!
Besides, it looks Praxis Works in the United States has a lot of compatible parts in its online store!
@GuruUno: Didn't you change cranks on one of your Specialized e-bikes? Something I should be aware of?
Redshift Sports now offer their suspension seat-post in four standard diameters and in several lengths as well as three types. (The brand must have understood that, say, a 27.2 mm diameter seatpost with a shim for 30.9 seat-tube was not the most competitive of ideas, so they now make a full assortment of suspension seat-posts).
Following the damage of my Cirrus Cycles Kinekt 2.1 suspension seat-post (which I was unable to repair so far), I ordered a new Redshift ShockStop suspension seat-post in size 30.9 x 400 mm. I was not sure whether that would work at all! The frame on my Vado 6.0 is not typical: it is a Step-Thru size S. My body build is short legs with a long torso and arms. Therefore, there was a balance between a very short space inside the seat-tube (to the junction with the frame top tube), and a long seat post. Necessary to mention the ShockStop has a big Minimum Insertion Length of 100 mm, and the post cannot be trimmed as its bottom part holds the spring assembly.
The initial measurement proved the seatpost size choice was proper. As always, the devil was in the details. As I completed installing the greased inner spring (that was necessary to accomodate my 100 kg body weight) and reassembled the unit (everything was very easy) as well as installed the saddle, I inserted the seat-post into the seat-tube to the very bottom. Then I turned pale when I found that the saddle height was 72 cm, whereas I needed 71... A saddle being a centimetre too high is a no-go for me.
OK. I took the seat-post out and turned the preload plug at the bottom to the "closed" position, making the seat-post as short as possible. It let me lower the saddle by a half centimetre.
The test ride has proved the new part was rideable. There was a minimal sag when I mounted the e-bike. No bouncing, no pedal-bob and the suspension action was very good even if the saddle was firm. However, my body told me it would feel a way better another half a centimetre lower...
The geometry of the e-bike is correct, only I dream of having the lower pedal a tad closer to my foot...
I think I have found a solution. The old cranks are 170 mm. If I install the 165 mm ones, everything should be perfect?
I have ordered a set from an online store in Italy for 80 EUR plus shipment. Let us see!
Besides, it looks Praxis Works in the United States has a lot of compatible parts in its online store!
@GuruUno: Didn't you change cranks on one of your Specialized e-bikes? Something I should be aware of?
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rayray
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Redshift offers the 30.9 diameter in a 350mm length also, and they offer a 90-day satisfaction policy. Unless you have a desire otherwise for shorter cranks, you could reorder in the shorter length.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
A no-go, Ray. The 350 mm seat-post would not ensure the saddle height at 71 cm at all! I did the math
That extremely shallow part of the seat-tube makes all a little difficult... (FYI, the depth is some 120 mm).
rayray
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Bummer. Looking at the picture I see that the seat-tube is very short on the Vado! On my medium Creo, I can use as short as a 280mm Redshift post, so I hadn’t considered that problem…..but my legs aren’t long either.A no-go, Ray. The 350 mm seat-post would not ensure the saddle height at 71 cm at all! I did the math
It is timely that this subject has come up again. I had a Redshift post on my Trek Allant+ 9.9, and it was a back-saver. While I don’t find the ride nearly as harsh on the Creo, I’ve been considering a suspension post, as I suspect it might help avoid fatigue from vibrations and jolts, even on this bike, particularly the large bumps that I don’t see in advance.
I’ve been caught up in a bit of analysis paralysis the past few days, as they have 3 models at 3 price points, each successively lighter in weight but also different in terms of suspension effect. I’ll probably end up with the lowest cost unit, as I don’t think I’d notice the weight difference, and I was happy with it on my Trek. Its not like I’m racing anyway. It does seem a bit sacrilegious to add this to a relatively lightweight bike, but I’ll get over it.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Praxis E-Cranks Replaced On My Vado 6.0!
It required help from my experienced brother to remove the existing drive-side crank from my Vado. It looks there was something wrong with the machining tolerances of the spindle (???) My brother had to use a long automotive wrench (with an 8 mm hex bit) and all his power to make the screw start moving, and it took a lot of effort to extract the crank. While everything on the non-drive side was correct and easy (I could do it with a regular bicycle 8 mm wrench myself I think). Once the cranks were removed, my brother installed the non-drive side crank with a total ease while he was pulling the wrench hard to install the other crank.
He believes the machining error must have surprised a Specialized technician on the Vado rebuild the same as it surprised my brother today. Anyway, both cranks have been tightened to 40 Nm, and I experience no issues with them at all!
I really needed the 165 mm cranks (the originals were 170 mm). My Vado is now at the sweet configuration point. My leg power on the pedals has been regained, and I can sit on the saddle naturally and comfortably. I only wonder what would have happened if I installed 160 mm cranks... Perhaps it would feel even better? Whatever! Done is done, and now I can fully enjoy my Vado after the suspension seat-post replacement!
The new non-drive side crank.
It required help from my experienced brother to remove the existing drive-side crank from my Vado. It looks there was something wrong with the machining tolerances of the spindle (???) My brother had to use a long automotive wrench (with an 8 mm hex bit) and all his power to make the screw start moving, and it took a lot of effort to extract the crank. While everything on the non-drive side was correct and easy (I could do it with a regular bicycle 8 mm wrench myself I think). Once the cranks were removed, my brother installed the non-drive side crank with a total ease while he was pulling the wrench hard to install the other crank.
He believes the machining error must have surprised a Specialized technician on the Vado rebuild the same as it surprised my brother today. Anyway, both cranks have been tightened to 40 Nm, and I experience no issues with them at all!
I really needed the 165 mm cranks (the originals were 170 mm). My Vado is now at the sweet configuration point. My leg power on the pedals has been regained, and I can sit on the saddle naturally and comfortably. I only wonder what would have happened if I installed 160 mm cranks... Perhaps it would feel even better? Whatever! Done is done, and now I can fully enjoy my Vado after the suspension seat-post replacement!
The new non-drive side crank.
Fender
Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Lyon
Hi, I have an odd behaviour on my Como (4.0 IGH 2022/2023) that I did not find in the manual.
I often carry bikes on the roof of my car. With my Como, I remove the battery and carry it in the Frunk to lower the bike weight on its roof-rack.
Issue is, at the end of the travel, I get the bike down, check plugs are clean, check the battery level (little button near the led indicators on the battery itself), reinstall the battery => I can't startup the bike as usual with the mastermind button (even with a longer press). The only way it will start-up again is if I plug the charger (plugged also to a wall outlet) to the bike/installed battery, after that, it works OK as usual (can turn off / on again the bike with the mastermind). It may be some kind of security feature, but I can find no other mean to start it again after a journey by car other than plug the charger. It already happened twice, it was OK cause I could plug the charger to a wall outlet, but What if I'm in the middle of nowhere with no power outlet to turn on the charger ? Any idea ?
I often carry bikes on the roof of my car. With my Como, I remove the battery and carry it in the Frunk to lower the bike weight on its roof-rack.
Issue is, at the end of the travel, I get the bike down, check plugs are clean, check the battery level (little button near the led indicators on the battery itself), reinstall the battery => I can't startup the bike as usual with the mastermind button (even with a longer press). The only way it will start-up again is if I plug the charger (plugged also to a wall outlet) to the bike/installed battery, after that, it works OK as usual (can turn off / on again the bike with the mastermind). It may be some kind of security feature, but I can find no other mean to start it again after a journey by car other than plug the charger. It already happened twice, it was OK cause I could plug the charger to a wall outlet, but What if I'm in the middle of nowhere with no power outlet to turn on the charger ? Any idea ?
Fender
Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Lyon
no one ever encountered this ? I don't have this behaviour when dismounting the battery to charge it upstairs and putting it back in the bike after. only after transporting bike and battery apart from each other.
next time i will try plugging it once after removal and before the journey to see if it changes something.
next time i will try plugging it once after removal and before the journey to see if it changes something.
mattie_b
Member
- Region
- USA
I have not had this issue @Fender, but experience something similar with my Vado not wanting to turn on. Mine is when I ride for a bit and take a long break. After 15 minutes or so of no use, the bike will turn itself off. The issue I have is it doesn't always want to turn back on immediately on the button press. I can see the backlight on the display turn on, but the specialized logo never appears. The screen remains blank with the backlight on......but simply turning the bike off and back on always worked for me.
Sorry I can't be of much help. Best of luck getting it resolved!
Sorry I can't be of much help. Best of luck getting it resolved!
Hi guys. I found a problem similar to my Como 4.0 igh. is the second time that I use it already no longer turns on. I uploaded the battery into the home and after i installed to the bike, this is not turns on from the mastermind. zero all dead. And yes, I transported the bike on my car saturday. If anyone can help me please. Thanks and sorry for my poor English.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
You certainly need to see a Specialized dealer.
Well, got to experience a blackout on the Como 5 a couple times. About a week ago the power cut out although the display was still operable. Today, another power outage, the display was normal except the percentage of the battery was blank and the blocks on the right side to indicate level 1,2, or 3 was blank, though it was on either level 1 or 2 when the outage occurred. I looked down at the display on the battery and it was blank though there was approx 59% charge when the blackout occured.
The battery is hardly ever removed and the bike has not really been subjected to water as in washing or rain shower. Coming up on 2k miles. Hope this is not going to be the norm, electrical issues are such a pita. I will take the battery out and look at the contacts for oxidation or arcing and maybe put some dielectric grease on the contacts, but probably should not as it may just complicate diagnosing things, at least for a while.
Any body else get to experience these symptoms? Otherwise the bike and all the pieces have been flawless.
The battery is hardly ever removed and the bike has not really been subjected to water as in washing or rain shower. Coming up on 2k miles. Hope this is not going to be the norm, electrical issues are such a pita. I will take the battery out and look at the contacts for oxidation or arcing and maybe put some dielectric grease on the contacts, but probably should not as it may just complicate diagnosing things, at least for a while.
Any body else get to experience these symptoms? Otherwise the bike and all the pieces have been flawless.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Button battery in the display could be a thing?
Possibly, though the display was working just fine. With electric, anything is possible
I opened the battery up to take a look. Inside was clean and dry. Nothing out of the ordinary. Whoever takes on the job of fixing ebike batteries could probably write their own ticket. The only thing I could see was the contacts, the female portion might have relaxed so I attempted to move them back together with a small screwdriver. The male contacts showed some discoloration where they made contact and possible movement involved. So I cleaned everything up and maybe put a dab of dielectric grease on them but then there is the possibility of dirt getting involved though it should be sealed off from outside elements with the rubber gasket on the bike that mats up to the battery.
Who knows.
Just curious here, I am a longtime fan of IGH bikes. I have 2 lovely steel frames, one has a Rolhoff, the other an Alfine 8 And both have provided me much pleasure and enjoyment.
Has anyone retrofit a turbo Vado or Turbo Vado SL with an internal hub?
Has anyone retrofit a turbo Vado or Turbo Vado SL with an internal hub?
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