Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

Rhombus Pro are not equipped with steel studs/spikes.

You certainly misunderstood me. I meant I need to change tyres twice a year on the big Vado. With tubeless, it would mean going through a mess two times a year

I have tubeless on my Vado SL as I do not change tyres for winter there.
 
@Calcoaster: I owned it. It just snapped when I was replacing tyres this spring :D Cheap plastic.
Do I need to say more?
I agree the Kool Stop Jack does feel lighter duty than I’d like. So far it has helped me mount a couple of gp5000’s, Mondos and now Pirelli p-zeros, all 700X35. Six tires now and each time it did feel a little flimsy but it sure worked well. It does help to keep both beads in the center channel as much as possible.
 
Anybody find the need or desire to change the brake fluid? Believe mine uses mineral oil. Any degradation or what not? The oil is cheap, the parts not so much.
 
Anybody find the need or desire to change the brake fluid? Believe mine uses mineral oil. Any degradation or what not? The oil is cheap, the parts not so much.
I do the brake bleeding (which involves the hydraulic fluid replacement) extremely rarely. The only situation in which I deem the process necessary is when the brake pads are new but the levers are very soft.
 
Anybody find the need or desire to change the brake fluid? Believe mine uses mineral oil. Any degradation or what not? The oil is cheap, the parts not so much.

Hey Marcela - I do all my own maintenance and haven't had to change brake fluid since it's closed system. And it's not expensive if you choose to do it - there are kits for not too much $$. And videos showing how to replace/bleed.
 
Hey Marcela - I do all my own maintenance and haven't had to change brake fluid since it's closed system. And it's not expensive if you choose to do it - there are kits for not too much $$. And videos showing how to replace/bleed.
Yeah, that's what I suspected, aligns with my thoughts. Thanks.
 
The New Turbo Vado S

The first time since Vado 6.0, a Euro Speed Pedelec (L1e-B) has been announced by Specialized.


It is a 45 km/h e-bike with the 2.2 motor, carbon belt drive and an IGH. Since the e-bike meets the strict European automotive norms, it is only available in the European Union (but not in the UK).

I am not sure whether this model would be successful. To legally ride the Vado S, you need to:
  • Register the e-bike as a moped
  • Carry the number plate
  • Pay third-party liability insurance
  • Wear a helmet
  • Only ride with traffic (but not on bike paths or lanes)
  • Do the technical inspection after 3 years of ownership, and annually after that.
I'm so glad to own my Vado 6.0... :)

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My comment: Nobody can understand the number plate on the e-bike. Drivers are furious to see an S-Pedelec on the street next to a bike path. The police cannot understand what they actually can see. Now, do you need to scrap your old S-Pedelec to stop paying the insurance? It is the rocket science! To start with, it is very difficult to register and insure an S-Pedelec, so rare it is!
 
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Anybody find the need or desire to change the brake fluid? Believe mine uses mineral oil. Any degradation or what not? The oil is cheap, the parts not so much.
I've got 6500 miles on my 2022 Vado brakes and have not changed the fluid just the pads (every 1000 miles). I have noticed no degradation whatsoever.
 
Thought I would chime in about my Turbo Vado 4.0 (2023 model, purchased just this January, new from the LBS, $2999 USD). I now have over 250 miles and 25,000' elevation gain on it. Still loving it. It continues to impress me with its stability, compliance, and comfort. It's often on a 1UP Super Duty bike rack on the back of our Class C RV. We designed and 3D printed some rubber (TPU) fillers that allow the rack arms to securely clamp down on the tires without deforming the alloy fenders.

When cross-shopping bikes, I was quite sure I'd go home with the SL model for its delightful light weight and sleeker looks. However, the SL's ride was too harsh for my needs, and the non-removable battery was a major downside for RV use where I'd want to charge the battery indoors and keep it out of the hot desert sun. So, the Turbo Vado 4.0 was the choice. In the end, I'm quite pleased. I remove the battery before loading it on the rack, which saves about 8 lbs.

Specialized needs to improve the battery release mechanism. As it is on my bike, there is no secondary latch, so you better be ready to catch the battery with your left hand as you pull the lever with your right, otherwise the battery could drop out and hit the ground. Initially we couldn't even get the battery to release at all, as the bottom screws holding the rubber gasket in were too tight, causing the gasket to bulge and prevent the battery from releasing.

The magnetic charger connector is fiddly and can pick up things like pebbles or keys. It only attaches in one orientation, which is not well marked. I'd rather just have USB-C. Imagine that... use any decent laptop power supply to charge your e-bike. Would they ever do it? Haha.

I added a Garmin Varia rear radar (custom 3D printed mount, of course), and a BASIL MIK-compatible trunk bag with fold out panniers.

All-in-all, it's a tremendous value and a capable bike for everything from fitness to errands. It looks nice to (especially in that metallic red).

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread as it helped me narrow my choices down.
 

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Strange behavior of my Vado 6.0 analyzed and under resolving

On my Saturday ride, I discovered some shifting issues. At times, I could hear a strange noise from the drivetrain. When attempting to ride without any assistance, I found I could not pedal the e-bike smoothly. Left the bike as it was until now.

Turned out, the tension pulley of the derailleur was badly damaged so the chain could not travel smoothly through the derailleur!

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A broken tooth. The bearing actually destroyed.

Well that leaves my Vado SL the only e-bike until I get a new set of pulleys!
 
Pulley looks rather worn. I usually swap them after 3 cassette replacements (on a traditional bike that is)

btw, do you ride 11 or 10 speed on the Vado?

Y-5RT98120 for 11 sp
Y-5X998150 for 10 sp
 
Pulley looks rather worn. I usually swap them after 3 cassette replacements (on a traditional bike that is)
I swap the cassette very rarely. I prefer replacing the chain over replacing the cassette. When the small cogs on the cassette become worn, I dismantle the cassette and replace the worn sprockets only.

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I usually replace the pulleys when they become "shark teeth". It was the first time a pulley got completely destroyed on any of my e-bikes!

Y-5RT98120 for 11 sp
I have ordered exactly this pulley set, thank you!
 
I run on my E-rando as daily commuter 2 chains on one cassette/chainring. Swap them at 0,75 ish. On my travel bike (non E, steel 9 sp with custom cassette, basicly a mega-range) I run a steel bladed crankset on JIS crancks and cycle trough 3 chains, so after a trip a fresh chain goes on and the used one gets a cleaning and lubing. that works fine for a non-daily rider. On the MTB's I run 1 chain per cassette and change a set at 1,0 wear. In that manner I save the chainrings. The chainrings on an E-mid-drive bike wears out faster than on a manual/traditional bike. If you would use a new chain on a worn out cassette (so past 0,75) the new chain wears out faster than the first one on a new cassette.

and yes I do have a few chain-wear indicators laying around to check... most used are the Rohloff one and one from Topeak, just because they are at hand. Cyclus has also a very nice one.
 
164 pages of knowledge. I‘ll start reading right away.

Currently riding a Vado SL 5.0 EQ and it‘s a bit too weak for our hills (or I‘m too weak, heh).

Looking at the Vado 5.0 IGH or - my current favourite - the Tero X 5.0

Not sure how either of them would perform without motor (which is really nice on the SL when you‘re riding in the flats).

I‘m also kind of wary of the whole automatic enviolo thing. I really wanted a belt for a while but Rohloff bikes cost a fortune so …

Enough said. Would anyone like to comment on the „no assist“ behaviour? Can you go over the assist shutoff (or just switch off to save battery) or is that just a bad idea with a 25-27kg bike?
 
Can you go over the assist shutoff (or just switch off to save battery) or is that just a bad idea with a 25-27kg bike?
I cannot say it for everybody but for me it is a bad idea to ride a full power Vado or Tero without any assistance. Even setting the assistance as low as 15/25% on my Vado makes the ride pleasant while riding OFF is only an emergency situation for me. It is a completely different kind of beast compared to Vado SL!

Bear in mind the motor in Vado 5.0 IGH is stronger than one in Tero X 5.0 (the stronger motor can be found in Tero X 6.0). Now, do you really need the rear damper? In my opinion, it only adds weight to an already heavy e-bike! Did you consider a Tero 5.0 with the strongest 2.2 motor?
 
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