AvalancheRun
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club
- Thread starter Stefan Mikes
- Start date
Agree, and can understand why you do. I really enjoyed three separate demos recently on a new Vado 4.0. Super fun to ride. Precise handling on road, and compromised surface areas. Like the riding position and overall interaction with the bike. Highly recommend it recently to a few good friends looking at it now.
Today I removed the dropper post and installed the Redshift post. I also swapped everything over to the Jones bars. The bag is perfect for my Ricoh GRiii camera. I'm always taking photos while riding. Most importantly- the bike is Lola approved... she's my little riding buddy. She absolutely loves bike rides.
Greetings to the communityA few days ago, while driving, the screw from the front fender (the upper one) fell off, and it turned out that it pulled the entire fender and tore the lower screws that are attached to the front fork.Considering that it is a special screw, the question is where to buy this? Bike is VADO 6.0.
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Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, Poland
A big wholesale with screws? I would take the broken one and showed to a sale assistant.
THX Stefan
I found the part
FENDER ADAPTER MOUNTS FOR SUSPENSION FORKS
FENDER ADAPTER MOUNTS FOR SUSPENSION FORKS
webshop.bestbike.de
MinnesotaSteve
New Member
- Region
- USA
I've been riding bikes a long time. My first "MTB" was a Specialized Hardrock bought back in 1989. Then I had a Bridgestone rigid in the 90s, and a Cannondale with the headshok in early 00s and then I didn't ride for like 15 years and got old and fat. In 2020 I bought a Trek FX3, and then in 2022 son started riding my old Cannondale so I bought a Trek Marlin 7 so we could ride trails together. I can't keep up with him though, so I started looking for an ebike this year and was planning to get something next spring.
Then I saw this Specialized Turbo Tero 3.0 drop to $2k for black friday. Actually was looking at the Tero 5.0 for $4k and went to the LBS and after test riding them in their parking lot decided the 3.0 was more than adequate and saved some money. The main thing the 5.0 had was the bigger motor, and I just don't need that. I don't want to go over 20 mph, I just wanted something to help with hills. I did like the improved fork, brakes and shifting on the 5.0 but I figure I could upgrade the 3.0 as I go, and I can do the work myself so it's just the cost of parts.
Anyway I've only rode it about 10 miles so far, but I'm definitely going to do something with the fork. The shifting I didn't mind, the 36T chainring and 11-36 cassette had adequate range for my riding style. The brakes will stay until they don't work. A dropper post might be nice, it'd make it easier to dismount certainly. So I think it was a good choice as I like the bike a lot.
The only problem I've had so far is removing the battery. When I pull the lever it doesn't drop out. I need to get my fingernails up in there and pry it to get it to release. It might be because it's cold. I'll play with it some more, but probably have to take it into the LBS.
Then I saw this Specialized Turbo Tero 3.0 drop to $2k for black friday. Actually was looking at the Tero 5.0 for $4k and went to the LBS and after test riding them in their parking lot decided the 3.0 was more than adequate and saved some money. The main thing the 5.0 had was the bigger motor, and I just don't need that. I don't want to go over 20 mph, I just wanted something to help with hills. I did like the improved fork, brakes and shifting on the 5.0 but I figure I could upgrade the 3.0 as I go, and I can do the work myself so it's just the cost of parts.
Anyway I've only rode it about 10 miles so far, but I'm definitely going to do something with the fork. The shifting I didn't mind, the 36T chainring and 11-36 cassette had adequate range for my riding style. The brakes will stay until they don't work. A dropper post might be nice, it'd make it easier to dismount certainly. So I think it was a good choice as I like the bike a lot.
The only problem I've had so far is removing the battery. When I pull the lever it doesn't drop out. I need to get my fingernails up in there and pry it to get it to release. It might be because it's cold. I'll play with it some more, but probably have to take it into the LBS.
GGinMP
Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- SF Bay Area
My wife's Turbo Vado SL 5.0 (I think it's a 2022 version) is experiencing some rubbing of the front disc brake. I want to loosen the brake (not the disc) and see if I can re-center it, but I can't figure out what screw bit to use. It looks like a star-bit, but a T25 seems a bit loose and I don't want to ruin the screws. Can anyone confirm the correct bit to use to loosen or remove the front break pad assembly? Thank you. I understand that the disc itself could be warped but I thought I'd try recentering first.
MinnesotaSteve
New Member
- Region
- USA
Try T30. If that's too big then T27.
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, Poland
Could you post a picture what exactly two screws you intend to loosen and then retighten? All my e-bikes with Shimano or Tektro brakes required a hex wrench (not Torx).
Specifically, the brakes on my Vado SL 4.0 require a 4 mm hex key.
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MinnesotaSteve
New Member
- Region
- USA
Replaced the fork on my Tero 3.0. The Suntour fork had a straight steerer to taper crown race adapter on it, so I just needed an FSA crown race not a whole headset. I got a Fox 34 float AWL, which is similar to the Marzocchi Bomber Z2 but with ebike fender mounts and such. Fox seems to be clearancing it as I got mine 35% off, but now I see it's 40% off.
shop.ridefox.com
The 100mm fork has similar length as the 110mm Suntour. It is for a boost front axle though, so 15x110 instead of 15x100. That can either be solved by an adapter kit for the centerlock rotor with some spacers... or buying a new wheel. I was able to find a new wheel so I went that route.
I think the reason this Fork was on clearance is because of the 51mm offset. Apparently 51mm was common say 3-4 years ago, but the industry is moving towards shorter offsets closer to 42mm. The oem fork was 46mm which was in the middle. I watched a variety of videos and read articles trying to understand if it would matter. In the end I actually think I like the 51mm as it makes the bike a bit more nimble and easier to turn.
I also really considered just going with the Recon, as it's available for the 15x100 axle, and I think the 120mm travel would have had about the right length. That would have been a cheaper option as I wouldn't be messing with a new wheel. That's what came on the Tero 5.0. Although to get the fender mounts you need the boost version. So back where we started, which is why I went this route.
I got covered in mud just from a 1 mile stretch of gravel trail, otherwise was riding on pavement. It's raining on Christmas which I don't think I've ever seen before. Been debating getting the fenders.
FOX 34 AWL | 29 - 100mm
MAKE EVERY RIDE LIMITLESS AWL: Adventure Without Limits. Designed to bring highly evolved, broadly tunable, super capable, ultra-reliable suspension to the cycling SUV market. Whether you are racing the clock to fit in another lap, or riding further than you have ever before, AWL suspension is...
shop.ridefox.com
The 100mm fork has similar length as the 110mm Suntour. It is for a boost front axle though, so 15x110 instead of 15x100. That can either be solved by an adapter kit for the centerlock rotor with some spacers... or buying a new wheel. I was able to find a new wheel so I went that route.
I think the reason this Fork was on clearance is because of the 51mm offset. Apparently 51mm was common say 3-4 years ago, but the industry is moving towards shorter offsets closer to 42mm. The oem fork was 46mm which was in the middle. I watched a variety of videos and read articles trying to understand if it would matter. In the end I actually think I like the 51mm as it makes the bike a bit more nimble and easier to turn.
I also really considered just going with the Recon, as it's available for the 15x100 axle, and I think the 120mm travel would have had about the right length. That would have been a cheaper option as I wouldn't be messing with a new wheel. That's what came on the Tero 5.0. Although to get the fender mounts you need the boost version. So back where we started, which is why I went this route.
I got covered in mud just from a 1 mile stretch of gravel trail, otherwise was riding on pavement. It's raining on Christmas which I don't think I've ever seen before. Been debating getting the fenders.
Fender
New Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Lyon
Is it an already failing bearing ? Is the motor not properly greased ?
Only when i pedal AND the motor assists, no noise on "off assist" even when pedaling
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Fender
New Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Lyon
Little update :
The noise now arrives after only a few hundred meters, one for each pedal pushed and even without assistance. I don’t think of anything else apart a bearing on the main axle.
Would you submit this to the specialized online support on WhatsApp or directly to my specialized LBS ?
The noise now arrives after only a few hundred meters, one for each pedal pushed and even without assistance. I don’t think of anything else apart a bearing on the main axle.
Would you submit this to the specialized online support on WhatsApp or directly to my specialized LBS ?
Take it to your bike shop. Only 2 other areas to check is the pedals & the chain. Bearings in the pedals can cause clicking problems & be hard to localise. Likewise a stiff link in chain can cause clicks.
right, well that rules out that suspect. And that's what this is & what the big shop mechanic will do, is to rule out all other likely causes until just the BB & motor are left.
pete H
Active Member
- Region
- United Kingdom
I noticed play in the pedal crank after only 45k on my Vado 4.0 sl. Took it back to LBS and they sent complaint to Specialized on my behalf. A week later LBS called me back and a new motor had been authorised no quibble. It was fitted straight away !
Same here. Clicking noise from motor area. Both the LBS mechanic and I tried everything to locate it then he told Specialized. New motor.
