Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

My wife's Turbo Vado SL 5.0 (I think it's a 2022 version) is experiencing some rubbing of the front disc brake. I want to loosen the brake (not the disc) and see if I can re-center it, but I can't figure out what screw bit to use. It looks like a star-bit, but a T25 seems a bit loose and I don't want to ruin the screws. Can anyone confirm the correct bit to use to loosen or remove the front break pad assembly? Thank you. I understand that the disc itself could be warped but I thought I'd try recentering first.

Try T30. If that's too big then T27.
 
My wife's Turbo Vado SL 5.0 (I think it's a 2022 version) is experiencing some rubbing of the front disc brake. I want to loosen the brake (not the disc) and see if I can re-center it, but I can't figure out what screw bit to use. It looks like a star-bit, but a T25 seems a bit loose and I don't want to ruin the screws. Can anyone confirm the correct bit to use to loosen or remove the front break pad assembly? Thank you. I understand that the disc itself could be warped but I thought I'd try recentering first.
Could you post a picture what exactly two screws you intend to loosen and then retighten? All my e-bikes with Shimano or Tektro brakes required a hex wrench (not Torx).
Specifically, the brakes on my Vado SL 4.0 require a 4 mm hex key.
 
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Replaced the fork on my Tero 3.0. The Suntour fork had a straight steerer to taper crown race adapter on it, so I just needed an FSA crown race not a whole headset. I got a Fox 34 float AWL, which is similar to the Marzocchi Bomber Z2 but with ebike fender mounts and such. Fox seems to be clearancing it as I got mine 35% off, but now I see it's 40% off.

The 100mm fork has similar length as the 110mm Suntour. It is for a boost front axle though, so 15x110 instead of 15x100. That can either be solved by an adapter kit for the centerlock rotor with some spacers... or buying a new wheel. I was able to find a new wheel so I went that route.

I think the reason this Fork was on clearance is because of the 51mm offset. Apparently 51mm was common say 3-4 years ago, but the industry is moving towards shorter offsets closer to 42mm. The oem fork was 46mm which was in the middle. I watched a variety of videos and read articles trying to understand if it would matter. In the end I actually think I like the 51mm as it makes the bike a bit more nimble and easier to turn.

I also really considered just going with the Recon, as it's available for the 15x100 axle, and I think the 120mm travel would have had about the right length. That would have been a cheaper option as I wouldn't be messing with a new wheel. That's what came on the Tero 5.0. Although to get the fender mounts you need the boost version. So back where we started, which is why I went this route.

I got covered in mud just from a 1 mile stretch of gravel trail, otherwise was riding on pavement. It's raining on Christmas which I don't think I've ever seen before. Been debating getting the fenders.


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My Turbo Como 4.0 IGH has only 60km and at the end of a 14km ride, I start to get this noise :/
Is it an already failing bearing ? Is the motor not properly greased ?
Only when i pedal AND the motor assists, no noise on "off assist" even when pedaling
 
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Little update :
The noise now arrives after only a few hundred meters, one for each pedal pushed and even without assistance. I don’t think of anything else apart a bearing on the main axle.
Would you submit this to the specialized online support on WhatsApp or directly to my specialized LBS ?
 
Little update :
The noise now arrives after only a few hundred meters, one for each pedal pushed and even without assistance. I don’t think of anything else apart a bearing on the main axle.
Would you submit this to the specialized online support on WhatsApp or directly to my specialized LBS ?
Take it to your bike shop. Only 2 other areas to check is the pedals & the chain. Bearings in the pedals can cause clicking problems & be hard to localise. Likewise a stiff link in chain can cause clicks.
 
I noticed play in the pedal crank after only 45k on my Vado 4.0 sl. Took it back to LBS and they sent complaint to Specialized on my behalf. A week later LBS called me back and a new motor had been authorised no quibble. It was fitted straight away !
 
I noticed play in the pedal crank after only 45k on my Vado 4.0 sl. Took it back to LBS and they sent complaint to Specialized on my behalf. A week later LBS called me back and a new motor had been authorised no quibble. It was fitted straight away !
Same here. Clicking noise from motor area. Both the LBS mechanic and I tried everything to locate it then he told Specialized. New motor.
 
Hello everyone,
Tomorrow I'm picking up Vado 5.0 2023 red tint color used for a short time, like new.
I am wondering if it is possible to unlock the support level via software. EU model from 25km/h to 45km/h.Thx
 
It’s certainly possible to change the country and thus some limitations in some corporate software but it’s not available outside official channels (e.g., you’re changing countries and you go see your official specialized store) and given the penalties for the professional who would do that in many countries if the bike doesn’t apply local laws, nobody will do that unlawfully
 
Yes, it's basically possible, but LBC is breaking the rules. Not to disparage my country, but law enforcement is not its forte.

In any case, first I will try to see if I can with medium support (on flat ground) to hit 30km/h, it would be great....

Currently with vado 6.0 with support 35% I reach a speed of 30km/h, which I consider the ideal speed for my needs, and that is my goal.
 
Hello everyone,
Tomorrow I'm picking up Vado 5.0 2023 red tint color used for a short time, like new.
I am wondering if it is possible to unlock the support level via software. EU model from 25km/h to 45km/h.Thx
You might have to speak nicely to your retailer, maybe a bribe with a few beers :) - but If you say it is only used on off-road private bike tracks I don't see why it cant be changed?
 
You might have to speak nicely to your retailer, maybe a bribe with a few beers :)
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You probably don't know that every Specialized e-bike is registered in a global database. When a dealer connects Turbo Studio to an e-bike, the application checks in which world region the e-bike was distributed. The dealer is simply unable to perform any action that is not allowed for a given WSBC e-bike, in particular, changing the speed restriction in a given area is impossible. Igor and I have owned a Vado 6.0, which is a European "moped" with a speed restriction of 45 km/h. For example, the dealer cannot change the wheel circumference for this model, because it is a property of the type of this e-bike, and it is read-only.

but If you say it is only used on off-road private bike tracks I don't see why it cant be changed?
In Europe, things are different. "E-bike" is defined by European law as a type, equated with traditional pedal bikes. There is no loophole here.

The European law defines a bicycle as "a vehicle not exceeding 0.9 meters in width, propelled by the muscular power of the person riding the vehicle, while it is permitted to equip a bicycle with an electric drive activated by pedals, powered by a voltage of no more than 48 volts with a rated continuous power of no more than 250 watts, the output of which decreases gradually and drops to zero after exceeding a speed of 25 km/h".

That's it. There is no word about where the bicycle can be ridden, private property or a public road. That's why e-bikes are allowed in any European national park where pedal bicycles are allowed. If you want to hamper with your own e-bike, yes, you can illegally do it and ride it on your own property but then say bye-bye to your warranty.

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If the dealer hampered with the e-bike themselves and would get caught, they would also lose their dealership. The top photo: A Specialized LBS in 2019. Bottom: No Specialized LBS in 2023, as they tried to play games with the mother company :)

Igor could of course derestrict his Vado himself but then he would take the consequences of doing so.
 
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Stefan, thank you for your effort, everything is clear to me...
It is frustrating that the bike has the ability and we are limited.
Igor, if you really must, consider a PearTune "tuner" dongle.
For myself, I have got as much experience as now I accept the 25 km/h restriction, and learned riding slower :)

There was a ride that became an eye-opener for me. A nice cyclist talked to me and said: 'Stefan, you are spoilt with the electric assistance. Any of us learned riding a bike slowly and only then the physical form improved, allowing us riding faster. It is no shame if your average speed for a ride is below 20 km/h!" That made me thinking. What I did was riding long trips with gradually reducing the assistance. Now, I'm riding my Vado 6.0 at just 20/20% assistance if the weather permits it. It gave me the single battery range of 100+ km with the average speed still at 21 km/h. I actually stopped taking spare batteries with me, making my e-bike relatively lightweight and aerodynamic. Low assistance makes it easy on the battery and motor, too.

When it comes to my Vado SL, I often ride it unassisted to improve my shape. Ya, that took me over 3 years to understand the speed is not everything! (It is still fun, though!)
 
Of course, I also ride SL with 35% support and improve my fitness.

I ride this Vado 6.0 (new 5.0) in urban areas (ie on the road together with vehicles), so sometimes it takes me a while to develop a speed of >30km/h.
 
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