Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

I don't pretend I'm smarter than Shimano and SRAM; or Magura, Tektro, and TRP too; they know their brakes.

Some hydraulic disk brakes can be centered by loosening the caliper bolt, squeezing the brake lever and re-tightening the bolt. High end brakes such as TRP Zurich are totally fixed. As the matching wheel must come on a thru-axle, the central position of the rotor between the pads is guaranteed.

Why reinvent the wheel? Bikes are not cars.

not exactly guaranteed…. different cassette and freehub configurations along with different amounts of torque on the through axle can absolutely move the rotor. rotor thickness and alignment also varies slightly brand to brand and of course, over time. if you have two wheelsets on a disk brake bike, you’ll see each time you change them that the alignment is slightly different. loosening the caliper fixing bolts, braking, and then tightening the bolts while braking as you note usually does the trick. the tolerances on these brakes are tiny, very different from cars.

all my brakes, from cheap no name on the vanmoof to mt200 on the sirrus, shimano GRX on the creo and the latest shimano dura-ace on the aethos have occasionally required this adjustment. then again, we have HILLS here!
 
The automotive brake rotor is 22 mm thick, and it is totally stiff, hence the need for the floating brake calliper. The bike brake rotor is 1 mm thick and it is flexible: this is the floating part here.
P.S. TRP Zurich brakes are not adjustable and these are the most premium brakes in the market. These are made the way they cannot go out of adjustment.
 
Floating rotors will give you some benefit to the self centering effect, floating calipers will always be centered over the rotor, so when you put a small amount of pressure on the pads they will be centered on the rotor and wear evenly, whereas a small amount of pressure on the fixed rotor or caliper will wear whichever side is going to contact first. A self centering rotor and/or caliper will give better brake feel also. Once you have experienced this you will know the difference and benefits. Also less pad wear and less heating of the brake assy from unintentional contact and better brake modulation.
 
The automotive brake rotor is 22 mm thick, and it is totally stiff, hence the need for the floating brake calliper. The bike brake rotor is 1 mm thick and it is flexible: this is the floating part here.
P.S. TRP Zurich brakes are not adjustable and these are the most premium brakes in the market. These are made the way they cannot go out of adjustment.
what do you mean by not adjustable? they look like they have the same two enlarged holes that any other caliper does, and their manuals reference the exact same procedure that you mentioned above.

884ED15B-4BD3-48E0-9613-75624A1318D7.jpeg


they look like nice brakes but at a faction of the cost of sram red axs, campy super record, or shimano dura ace i’m not sure how they’re the “most premium” on the market !
 
what do you mean by not adjustable? they look like they have the same two enlarged holes that any other caliper does, and their manuals reference the exact same procedure that you mentioned above.

View attachment 125705

they look like nice brakes but at a faction of the cost of sram red axs, campy super record, or shimano dura ace i’m not sure how they’re the “most premium” on the market !
The TRP Zurich brake is mounted to the frame by two bolts, making it effectively fixed. I can take a picture in the morning my time.
I could never find any bolt to loosen there, and I never needed adjusting the calipers in 2 1/2 years even if I replaced the pads for several times.
Please show me where these "two big holes" are. I simply don't get it!

TRP Zurich are one of very few bike brakes Type Approved for Euro S-Pedelec, a moped.
 
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The TRP Zurich brake is mounted to the frame by two bolts, making it effectively fixed. I can take a picture in the morning my time.
I could never find any bolt to loosen there, and I never needed adjusting the calipers in 2 1/2 years even if I replaced the pads for several times.
Please show me where these "two big holes" are. I simply don't get it!

TRP Zurich are one of very few bike brakes Type Approved for Euro S-Pedelec, a moped.
strange, the manuals i saw show two unthreaded holes just the same as a shimano or sram caliper. the holes are larger than the bolt by a few MM. but i’m sure they make many types of brakes. maybe they have a much larger throw than typical bike brakes, which would allow the pads to be further apart when not braking? the latest shimano brakes have slightly larger clearance to reduce rubbing when not perfectly aligned.

these holes are larger than the bolts, the same as most calipers i’ve mounted/adjusted:

5B0237D6-4631-4F94-B35F-3EF5A5FD08BD.jpeg
 
strange, the manuals i saw show two unthreaded holes just the same as a shimano or sram caliper. the holes are larger than the bolt by a few MM. but i’m sure they make many types of brakes. maybe they have a much larger throw than typical bike brakes, which would allow the pads to be further apart when not braking? the latest shimano brakes have slightly larger clearance to reduce rubbing when not perfectly aligned.

these holes are larger than the bolts, the same as most calipers i’ve mounted/adjusted:

View attachment 125746
Mark,
These holes hold two stout bolts that are firmly screwed to the frame. That makes these callipers totally rigid. As the wheel with the rotor is mounted by a thru-axle, the rotor is always perfectly centred between the callipers. That's why I have never needed to adjust them...

TRP = Tektro Racing Products.
 
Mark,
These holes hold two stout bolts that are firmly screwed to the frame. That makes these callipers totally rigid. As the wheel with the rotor is mounted by a thru-axle, the rotor is always perfectly centred between the callipers. That's why I have never needed to adjust them...

TRP = Tektro Racing Products.
yes - of course when in use the bolts are rigid! but the caliper is adjusted by loosening them and moving it a bit. all my bikes are through axle and it’s definitely not exactly in the same position, even just through replacing an old rotor with a new one, for example.

maybe we’re talking about different things. i’m not
referring to an automotive style floating caliper, only the normal amount of adjustment in the caliper position.
 
Said goodbye to my 2018 Vado 6.0 today.
I re-homed it to my brother, who is recovering from chemotherapy. He LOVES the bike. We did a short 4mi/6km ride and I think created a speed monster. He loves flying along in Sport & Turbo mode, probably because it’s so darn smooth. Now he’s really motivated to build up strength and speed his recovery.
I feel good that the bike has a good home but more importantly I am so grateful that he is beating cancer.
 
Said goodbye to my 2018 Vado 6.0 today.
I re-homed it to my brother, who is recovering from chemotherapy. He LOVES the bike. We did a short 4mi/6km ride and I think created a speed monster. He loves flying along in Sport & Turbo mode, probably because it’s so darn smooth. Now he’s really motivated to build up strength and speed his recovery.
I feel good that the bike has a good home but more importantly I am so grateful that he is beating cancer.
I wish your brother well and may great hours of enjoyment on his Vado. You are a kind and giving brother.
 
yes - of course when in use the bolts are rigid! but the caliper is adjusted by loosening them and moving it a bit.
Do you mean the holes in the calliper are so big loosening the bolts would make the caliper move? If yes, thank you very much for the education, Mark!
Said goodbye to my 2018 Vado 6.0 today.
I re-homed it to my brother, who is recovering from chemotherapy. He LOVES the bike. We did a short 4mi/6km ride and I think created a speed monster. He loves flying along in Sport & Turbo mode, probably because it’s so darn smooth. Now he’s really motivated to build up strength and speed his recovery.
I feel good that the bike has a good home but more importantly I am so grateful that he is beating cancer.
I'm glad for your brother getting the exquisite e-bike from you as a gift! (A similar situation re my Trance E+ that my brother Jacek got as he craved for that e-MTB and I could not find storage space for it anymore). I only regret you cannot ride it anymore! The time for a newer Vado perhaps? :)
You are a kind and giving brother.
A sister :)
 
Do you mean the holes in the calliper are so big loosening the bolts would make the caliper move? If yes, thank you very much for the education, Mark!

right, the hole is perhaps 2mm larger than the shaft of the bolt. this is why loosening it and then braking centers it on the rotor, because it has freedom to move when you do so. then you tighten the bolts and it stays in that position, hopefully still centered on the rotor 😂
 
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Continuing the fine-tuning of my Vado’s cockpit….
Installed a set of SQlab 411 inner barends.

Next project I think will be installing a RockShox Reba air fork to get away from the SunTour Mobile A32- someone’s cruel joke to simulate ‘suspension’. 😂

Honestly, I’d even consider a rigid carbon fork and use a Redshift suspension stem, as I’ve enjoyed the results of that stem on other analog bikes, but I can’t find a carbon fork with a similar axle-to-crown height…the Reba in 80 or 100mm is pretty close so that’s my reasoning there.

It’d be so boring without the accessorizing process, no? 🙂
 
I removed my rear fender off my Vado SL EQ which supports the rear rack. Does anyone know where I can get a support that will hold the front of the rack to the frame area behind the seat post?

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I removed my rear fender off my Vado SL EQ which supports the rear rack. Does anyone know where I can get a support that will hold the front of the rack to the frame area behind the seat post?

View attachment 125983
Is there a bolt screw hole on the bottom of the seat stay bridge? My Creo has one there where my rack is attached.
 
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