Solder to terminal block

[MrCaspan]

So I got my new terminal block and have no clue how to solder the wire onto it. The wire is 14g but these terminal legs seem really small. I only have so much wire to work with so I am afraid to remove too much. Any hints or ideas? Should I find a way to use clamps for the end of the wire that slid into these pins?

 

[Gionnirocket]

Tin the wire first. A very short section only
If possible push the wire thru the hole of the terminal to hold it in place.
Wrap the plastic in a damp cloth to keep it from over heating.
If you can attach the mating end on the other side to hold the blades straight
Use a large tip on the soldering iron to transfer heat quickly
If you have some electrical grade solder paste/rosin.. it will help greatly with heat transfer and solder flow.

Much easier to do this relaxed at a work bench. If you have room to tuck extra wire away I would consider soldering new wire onto the terminals.. and then use butt crimps to attach to the old wires.This also makes it easier to slide some Heatshrink over your solder connection.

 

[MrCaspan]

Actually after measuring these terminal spade width they are about 2.9mm wide so I can use a 2.8mm female spade connector for 14 gauge wire. Then I can throw some heat shrink tubing over it. Any suggestions how to make a spade connector more secure that does not vibrate apart?

 

[MrCaspan]

yeah there's no way I can put more than four or five wires through that hole the width of the wires the whole width of the connector.. I can probably put a few through it to keep it in place but I think a Spade connect is going to be a lot easier..

 

[Gionnirocket]

Actually after measuring these terminal spade width they are about 2.9mm wide so I can use a 2.8mm female spade connector for 14 gauge wire. Then I can throw some heat shrink tubing over it. Any suggestions how to make a spade connector more secure that does not vibrate apart?View attachment 194253View attachment 194254

For that use the marine grade heat shrink with glue inside

 

[Gionnirocket]

yeah there's no way I can put more than four or five wires through that hole the width of the wires the whole width of the connector.. I can probably put a few through it to keep it in place but I think a Spade connect is going to be a lot easier..

And if you're not a seasoned solder'r... It's not easy and a crimp connection will probably be much more secure.
Make sure they are of good quality as the cheap ones don't hold well... Especially under vibration.

 

[PedalUma]

I am soldering inside and under a battery tray today. For an extension I would string a section of heat tube down the wires first away from any heat. I would solder one up, one down, seal each, then pull the section up over both.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Curious... Looking at the block it looks as if the terminals snap into place and are not molded in.
Could they be removed if you wanted to solder?
Looking at your second set of photos.. It appears you've already separated the terminal from the block

 

[MrCaspan]

Curious... Looking at the block it looks as if the terminals snap into place and are not molded in.
Could they be removed if you wanted to solder?
Looking at your second set of photos.. It appears you've already separated the terminal from the block

yes they can be removed the picture I showed just had them installed.

 

[PedalUma]

A bit off topic: That battery tray is wired. It is on red a Trek MTB. I just installed a motor that has been sitting around for 18-months that I wanted to be rid of. It is a 750W TS with a throttle. I will take up the display-to-controller slack by making a figure 8 behind the display with shrink tube over it. I can fine tune that adjustment just before the heat gun. I am running the display wire under the top tube to take even more slack. The wire is too wide to do thru-frame. And I will run it down the back of the seat tube when the matching red zip ties arrive tomorrow. I hate zip ties on bikes; I like to skinny dip, going zip tie free for most builds. This Trek the exception proves the rule. It will also have a speed sensor. With even more wires showing. I like that wire mess to all go away, disappear. I hope it all works great @MrCaspan!

 

[MrCaspan]

Feels so weird that they put a 2.8 mm thin piece of metal (male spade connector) to carry all this current. Like I am sure it can but why not make it larger? what's the harm in less resistance?

 

[Gionnirocket]

Feels so weird that they put a 2.8 mm thin piece of metal (male spade connector) to carry all this current. Like I am sure it can but why not make it larger? what's the harm in less resistance?

Typically the load is spread between 2 or 3 blades in parallel for each circuit conductor . By doing this the current is lower per blade, arching is minimized, smaller blades are easier to engage and cost less.

 

[MrCaspan]

Well I ordered some Klein Crimpers for insulated spade connectors and got a few 1.8mm female blue spade connectors. Also great suggestion on the epoxy heat shrink tubing as it works as water proof and helps keep the connection together. I have been looking to get one of these crimpers anyways, I have been using an old pair of wire strippers that have like a single bump on them for crimping and they suck!

 

[stompandgo]

Klein makes good electrical tools that will last a lifetime.

 

[MrCaspan]

Amazon great for RMAs. basically got one for half off because it was returned. still comes with a warranty so we'll try them out today!!

 

[6zfshdb]

Actually after measuring these terminal spade width they are about 2.9mm wide so I can use a 2.8mm female spade connector for 14 gauge wire. Then I can throw some heat shrink tubing over it. Any suggestions how to make a spade connector more secure that does not vibrate apart?View attachment 194253View attachment 194254

IMO, this is the best approach and the way I do mine. It's also the way the maker of my bikes does it. Applying heat from a soldering iron to these connectors can be tricky. If the heat transfers to the female spring terminals, they can lose their temper and not grip the spade terminals on the battery mount properly.

I've never had one vibrate loose, but using heat shrink tubing with glue, as suggested by @Gionnirocket above, will secure it. I usually cut the plastic housing off the connector after crimping, to make it easier for the shrink tubing to grip. It also conserves space.

 

[stompandgo]

On the flip side, even properly done solderless connections like these are vulnerable to loosening and corrosion. A properly done solder connection will outlast the terminal block.

 

[MrCaspan]

I agree but that's like saying flying is easier then walking BUT you just need to learn how to fly If I could solder this I would trust me. I did a year of electrotech in collage and not a newbie to soldering but I'm kind of scratching my head on this one. I figure maybe use spade connectors then solder it LOL But seriously this spade off the terminal is so small and the wire is 14g and is bigger then the terminal. It has a tiny hole in it that maybe 5 strands could fit through. I can rough up the pin to allow better connection with the solder but its kind of not the best thing to solder.

Now I could take it to my local bike shop to do the soldering as I am sure they are used to this but wanted to do this myself to get some experience.

Here is the next quesiton.. how would you solder this.. My replacement came with this (I don't need it) but was looking at it and thinking how do you even solder this?

 

[Gionnirocket]

In my opinion that is extremely difficult to do. It should be molded with the wires already attached.
If I had to.. I would follow my suggestions above and possibly seek out some low temperature solder as well.
There's industrial equipment that accomplish this that just can't be duplicated at home.

 

[MrCaspan]

I was glad when I saw this that I bought a new battery receiver for my bike side of things then trying to solder this all wired up from Biktrix ready to connect and go!