Why such big, hard cotter pins for brake pads?

[spokewrench]

The adjectives ultra tough and durable come free. The $9.99 price ought to tell you something. The Ican looks just like a real tool.
The Channellock 8" cutters are $45, the Klein are $48.

Good point. I could have spent $93 and still been unable to cut a 3mm cotter pin of steel so hard that it's difficult to bend the legs.

 

[Urbancowboy]

The adjectives ultra tough and durable come free. The $9.99 price ought to tell you something. The Ican looks just like a real tool.
The Channellock 8" cutters are $45, the Klein are $48.

Good point. I could have spent $93 and still been unable to cut a 3mm cotter pin of steel so hard that it's difficult to bend the legs.

If a Cotter pin is that hard to bend/cut, there is something wrong with it, just replace it with another one otherwise you risk breaking the Caliper which is made of cast Aluminum.
Cheers

 

[TrevorB]

Think author is making mountain out of mole hill. Split pins are there solely to stop pads falling there is no force on them. Split pins supplied with shimano factory pads are easily bent and straighten with long nose pliers no need to cut them.

 

[spokewrench]

Think author is making mountain out of mole hill. Split pins are there solely to stop pads falling there is no force on them. Split pins supplied with shimano factory pads are easily bent and straighten with long nose pliers no need to cut them.

What author do you mean?

I've dealt with 5 sets of pads of at least 3 brands, and all were too hard to bend back tight against the caliper to avoid snagging. I suppose I could buy shimano factory pads and throw the pads away, but it might be better to buy a box of galvanized pins.

 

[PCeBiker]

We used to use finishing nails as kids when we didn't have a cotter pin.

 

[spokewrench]

We used to use finishing nails as kids when we didn't have a cotter pin.

They make clevis pins 3mm in diameter, and a bit of safety wire should keep them from sliding out.

 

[mschwett]

wow, none of my bikes have cotter pins to keep the pads aligned with the caliper. there’s a small bolt which threads into the caliper and then there’s a teeny cotter pin through the end of it, just in case.

a cotter pin seems a very sloppy way to keep something like a brake pad aligned, unless as noted by some responses here, there’s also a groove/lip in the caliper that restrains it.

 

[spokewrench]

wow, none of my bikes have cotter pins to keep the pads aligned with the caliper. there’s a small bolt which threads into the caliper and then there’s a teeny cotter pin through the end of it, just in case.

a cotter pin seems a very sloppy way to keep something like a brake pad aligned, unless as noted by some responses here, there’s also a groove/lip in the caliper that restrains it.

I need to check my pad surfaces. I could order a box of 3mm diameter soft (I think) cotter pins, but I found for the same price, 8 M3 x 30mm clevis pins. The hole through the caliper is 22mm long. 30mm will give me leeway in case they are measuring all the way to the tip of the pin.

 

[PCeBiker]

,.. I found for the same price, 8 M3 x 30mm clevis pins. The hole through the caliper is 22mm long. 30mm will give me leeway in case they are measuring all the way to the tip of the pin.

I just made the same purchase, but went with the 25mm length and a C-clip instead of a cotter pin.

The distance between the C-clip and pin head is supposed to be L - il so, 25mm - 3mm is 22mm of spacing.
I think that I'll be good.

The only problem that I've had before with that type of C-clip, is when you try to remove it, they tend to pop off and go flying about 20 feet.

Maybe I can tether it with a thread or something so I don't lose it?


I think that I could have gone with @mschwett 's brake pin design but I didn't want to tap out one side of my caliper pin hole.
That would be more creative than I want to get.

 

[spokewrench]

The 3mm clevis pins arrived. I removed the front pads on one bike to clean and inspect. Now I realize why I've found cotter pins annoying. The three bikes where I've removed pads had low-end Tektro calipers. The calipers won't let me reach the cotter pins except with the tips of needlenose pliers. The tips of my favorite pliers are 80mm from the hinge. That's not a very strong bite for a 3mm cotter pin of hard metal. My favorites from before I got them measure 70mm from hinge to tip. I have a pair marked NAPA that measure 55mm, hinge to tip.

The Little Engine that Could may be a little pair I got in 1973 and seldom used: 40mm from hinge to tip. I usually prefer needlenose pliers with a long reach. In this case, a short reach may work better.

While the pads were out, I sprayed the calipers with dry silicone rated at 400 F, 200 C. On a car, lube between pad and caliper can prevent squealing, so why not on bikes?

A 1/8" drill bit (3.2mm) would fit nicely through the holes in the caliper, pads, and spring. Was it drilled to an English specification? The cotter pin that holds the clevis pin was easier to work with than the cotter pin that had held the pads. Safety wire should be easier. I could inspect my pads every day!

That front brake is peculiar. If I brake hard (using only the front) from 20 mph or faster, it shudders as it passes through a certain speed range, say 15 to 12 mph. At higher and lower speeds, it's smooth and strong. I have to brake hard to cause it.

 

[PCeBiker]

My clevis pins arrived too.
They fit perfectly,..

I did drop the circlip half a dozen times while trying to install it though, but luckily I didn't loose it.

I only did the rear brake for now to make sure that the pin works and doesn't fall out or something.

 

[il Munduato]

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