SL 4 crank wobble/ grinding noise

[Simonc60]

My Vado 4SL was serviced 8 weeks ago and has developed a grinding noise from the crank which has gotten worse, on inspection this morning, the crank arm has a wobble on the drive side but not the other, any ideas ?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

My Vado 4SL was serviced 8 weeks ago and has developed a grinding noise from the crank which has gotten worse, on inspection this morning, the crank arm has a wobble on the drive side but not the other, any ideas ?

How old is your Vado SL? The drive side crankarm was identically damaged on my Vado SL after less than 3 years from the e-bike purchase, the same wobble. I ordered a new single crankarm for the same side from my Specialized LBS, replaced it, and all is fine. Later, I found I could have ordered the crankarm from an independent online store that carries Specialized stuff. Taking into account the shipment cost, the cost from either source was identical. It is good a single crankarm can be ordered!

 

[Simonc60]

How old is your Vado SL? The drive side crankarm was identically damaged on my Vado SL after less than 3 years from the e-bike purchase, the same wobble. I ordered a new single crankarm for the same side from my Specialized LBS, replaced it, and all is fine. Later, I found I could have ordered the crankarm from an independent online store that carries Specialized stuff. Taking into account the shipment cost, the cost from either source was identical. It is good a single crankarm can be ordered!

I took ownership of mine in August last year so only 13 months old. I am hoping that it should be replaced under warranty but if not, I’m guessing that I’ll need extra tools ( torque wrench, hex key and crank puller)to remove it ?, thanks for your advice though and

 

[pete H]

My SL4 developed play on the crankshaft at 6 months old. My LBS filed a complaint on my behalf to Specialized and they replaced the motor under warranty.
I was in the LBS last week and they informed me that Specialized have discovered that the crank could be adjusted up and that motor replacement is not necessary. Good luck

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I took ownership of mine in August last year so only 13 months old. I am hoping that it should be replaced under warranty but if not, I’m guessing that I’ll need extra tools ( torque wrench, hex key and crank puller)to remove it ?, thanks for your advice though and

Not. No crank-puller necessary. You only need any applicable wrench to remove your pedal (possibly an 8 mm hex or an appropriate flat wrench, depending on the pedal) and a regular 8 mm hex wrench (20 cm long) to pull the crankarm off then to pull the new crankarm onto the spindle.

This technology ("self-extracting crankarm") is breathtakingly good and easy.

To Pull The Crankarm Off
After having the pedal removed, insert the short end of the 20 cm long 8 mm hex wrench into the spindle socket. Start rotating the wrench anticlockwise (it is a normal direction to unscrew). It will be hard, so put a lot of effort. Pulling the crank off is a slow process, as the crank must be pulled off the conical spindle end. After many slow turns, the crankarm will get released.

To Pull The New Crankarm On
Place the end of the new crankarm onto the spindle thread. Again, insert the short end of the hex wrench into the socket and start rotating the wrench clockwise. Pulling the crankarm on takes time, many rotations and effort. When the wrench stops rotating, push the end of the wrench with all your might so it stops moving completely. Alternatively, you could use an automotive (long) torque wrench: the torque is indicated on the crankarm (it could be two unrelated values, select the greater of two. I think it is 40-50 Nm, which is a lot).

I need to say I replaced the crankarm myself only using my hand and a 20 cm long 8 mm hex wrench.

Good luck!

P.S. PLEASE READ THIS

 

[fifteenkey]

Not. No crank-puller necessary. You only need any applicable wrench to remove your pedal (possibly an 8 mm hex or an appropriate flat wrench, depending on the pedal) and a regular 8 mm hex wrench (20 cm long) to pull the crankarm off then to pull the new crankarm onto the spindle.

This technology ("self-extracting crankarm") is breathtakingly good and easy.

To Pull The Crankarm Off
After having the pedal removed, insert the short end of the 20 cm long 8 mm hex wrench into the spindle socket. Start rotating the wrench anticlockwise (it is a normal direction to unscrew). It will be hard, so put a lot of effort. Pulling the crank off is a slow process, as the crank must be pulled off the conical spindle end. After many slow turns, the crankarm will get released.

To Pull The New Crankarm On
Place the end of the new crankarm onto the spindle thread. Again, insert the short end of the hex wrench into the socket and start rotating the wrench clockwise. Pulling the crankarm on takes time, many rotations and effort. When the wrench stops rotating, push the end of the wrench with all your might so it stops moving completely. Alternatively, you could use an automotive (long) torque wrench: the torque is indicated on the crankarm (it could be two unrelated values, select the greater of two. I think it is 40-50 Nm, which is a lot).

I need to say I replaced the crankarm myself only using my hand and a 20 cm long 8 mm hex wrench.

Good luck!

P.S. PLEASE READ THIS

Is a washer or spacer in the mix? My crank fell off and since I put it back and tightened it, there's a little bit of play in in there.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Is a washer or spacer in the mix? My crank fell off and since I put it back and tightened it, there's a little bit of play in in there.

No extra parts there. It looks these cranks are somewhat vulnerable.