Vado SL 5.0 -- Maintenance suggested/required?

[John in CA]

I purchased my Vado SL 5.0 in September, 2021. The odometer now reads 1,722 miles (not much). According to Ride With GPS, my elevation climbed is 208,418'. My local bike shop, Mike's Bikes in Berkeley, CA, is recommending a service every two years, and that sounds like a good idea to me. Given that almost all of my riding is in hills, I have replaced the brakes twice. Mike's Bikes has two levels of service--Tier 1 and Tier 2--see below. I prepaid for Tier 1 for five years, so I will definitely do that in the near future. My question is whether I really need the Tier 2 service at this time. Is bleeding the brakes after 1,722m and two years a good idea? I can have that done without doing the rest of the Tier 2 items.

I will appreciate any advice from those of you who know a lot more than I do about these bikes. Thank you.

John

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TIER 1 SERVICE:

Inspect frame, fork & components

Adjust bottom bracket

Tighten crank bolts

Tighten chainring bolts

Inspect pedals for wear & tighten

Adjust headset & check stem bolts

Adjust hub bearings front & rear

True & tension wheels

Lube cables & housing

Align derailleur hanger

Adjust brakes

Adjust front derailleur

Adjust rear derailleur

Tighten & final check

E-Bike Firmware Updates

Bike wipe down

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TIER 2 SERVICE:

Install complete set of cables & housing

Clean frame & components

Clean drivetrain in solvent tank

(including derailleurs, crank & chainrings, cassette, & chain)

Headset bearing overhaul

Bottom bracket overhaul

Bleed disc brakes, front and rear

Install new handlebar tape or grips

 

[fooferdoggie]

most of that you dont need. the housing does not need lube as most of the decent stuff works best without. you would replace the housing but thats maybe 8000 miles along. unless you have shifting issues no adjustments. would be needed. headset adjustment I doubt it needed at all. mine would dry out after a season of riding every day in the rain bu thats about 6000 miles in a year. pedals I dont bother unless they have issues. wheel bearings most likely fine in that short of a time. wheel spokes should be checked. cleaning well thats. matter of choice. I wash my bikes once in awhile but thats it. chain cleaning all you need that. brass only need adjustment if you have issues and only need bled if there are issues.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

1,722 miles is nothing for a Vado SL (although the elevation gain is impressive). No need to go beyond Tier 1.
I think you had to replace the brake pads because of your hills. You might check the chain for the stretch, and replace it if needed.

Bottom bracket overhaul

The LBS clearly thinks in terms of heavily ridden road bikes and MTBs. You even cannot "overhaul the bottom bracket" on your e-bike, as there is the motor in the place of the bottom bracket!

 

[mfgrep]

If like to watch them "adjust the front derailleur".

 

[John in CA]

I appreciate your comments. The service options are for all of the bikes the LBS sells, so many of the items don't apply to the Vado SL 5.0. I think I will stick with Tier 1 and have the brake pads and chain checked.

 

[mfgrep]

I appreciate your comments. The service options are for all of the bikes the LBS sells, so many of the items don't apply to the Vado SL 5.0. I think I will stick with Tier 1 and have the brake pads and chain checked.

I didn't intend to sound glib. Sorry...I couldn't resist.
I have just a few lesser miles when compared to you on my Vado SL. I enjoy completing my own maintenance whenever possible but I understand that not everyone has that inclination, skills, or tools.
I routinely lube my chain....and often. I routinely adjust my brake calipers when I hear them squawking. I have an extra set of brake rotors and an extra set of pads here at the ready for replacement when necessary. I recently removed my chainring due to a few chain-drops....I cleaned it up....re-tightened the bolts etc in an effort to reduce chain-drops.
My bike was making a 'clunking sound' recently when traveling over bumps in the road....I narrowed it to the kick-stand bolts which had become loose and I remedied that quickly/easily. I check my tires for wear and pump them up routinely. More irregularly I ensure that my headset and other bits are not coming loose.

It is my experience that you will know, feel, hear, or see a problem if/when a problem arises. This is the time to address the issue whether yourself or via your LBS. I think it is well worth any cyclists time to learn basic bike maintenance and repairs so that you can complete some repairs at home....or to enable you to take the bicycle to your LBS when necessary. Not only is it extremely gratifying to fix your own bicycle....but the process of doing so will further your knowledge, reduce some general bicycle anxieties, maintain your interest, and keep you safe(r). These basic skills will also enable you to KNOW when the bike needs to be seen by a pro for repair(s).

If a tune-up makes you feel safer/better about your bicycle.....by all means go for it! I liken such routine 'annual service' options offered by LBS to the furnace and AC companies sales pitch for an 'annual furnace check-up' which solely provides the Servicer an entry to your home and eventually to your wallet. Ymmv.

 

[TrevorB]

Worth watching some youtube videos on chain maintenance and brake pad replacements. You should be able to do both of these. Worth owning chain stretch measurer to monitor it.

Derailleur shouldn't need adjusting unless its taken a knock. You may need to adjust cable tension at shifter occasionally as cable stretches, again see youtube.

For MTBing bleeding brakes every year is good idea but for leisure riders every few years is fine.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I have an extra set of brake rotors

It will take a long time to use them. A very long time. I replaced the big Vado rotors after, say, 10,000 miles only because I wanted to burn some money, and the new Shimano Ice-Tech based rotors looked so good! To soon find out my rear brake totally broke after so many miles ridden...

Taking into account the Vado SL brake rotors are Centerlock, I will replace them to the true Ice Technology ones but that is not going to happen soon. Brake rotors have a long life! Now think what would happen if we still rode the V-brakes! We would need to rebuild our expensive wheels once in a while as the rims would get ruined!

 

[mfgrep]

It will take a long time to use them. A very long time. I replaced the big Vado rotors after, say, 10,000 miles only because I wanted to burn some money, and the new Shimano Ice-Tech based rotors looked so good! To soon find out my rear brake totally broke after so many miles ridden...

Taking into account the Vado SL brake rotors are Centerlock, I will replace them to the true Ice Technology ones but that is not going to happen soon. Brake rotors have a long life! Now think what would happen if we still rode the V-brakes! We would need to rebuild our expensive wheels once in a while as the rims would get ruined!

Yes but I do not not have a wheel/rotor truing stand at home....and rotors do get warped/bent. I bought 2 new rotors on ebay for < $30 US shipped. They might come in handy....and it was cheap.
I'd like to replace my front rotor just to see if it stops the consistent brake rubbing occurring at my front rotor. I have adjusted, adjusted, and re-adjusted countless times. It never fails....after a typical sustained braking....i get a rub at the front.......usually light rubbing....but occasionally moderate. I can usually get rid of it by some brake lever pulsing.....or after some time goes by.....only for it to promptly return.....this has been occurring basically since I bought the bike. Rear never gives me any problems. Early on the LBS 'adjusted'.....but no better/worse results than from my own adjustments. I had thought a rotor replacement might be an option but have not yet been compelled to try.

 

[TrevorB]

Should be able to see if rotor is bent by viewing it through caliper. If not bent then try bleeding brakes.
What band and model brakes are on bike?.

Had problems with cheaper Tektro models, ended up binning them and fitting Shimanos.

 

[fooferdoggie]

in 8000 miles I go through several chains one chainring one cassette maybe 3 sets of pads one set of rotors. my headset was dry as the bearings are not sealed and I ride a lot in the rain. I had to rebuild my petals because again all the rain. but thats about it. this year before winter starts I am having the headset bearings replaced with sealed ones and a new shifter housing at the same time.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Yes but I do not not have a wheel/rotor truing stand at home....and rotors do get warped/bent. I bought 2 new rotors on ebay for < $30 US shipped. They might come in handy....and it was cheap.
I'd like to replace my front rotor just to see if it stops the consistent brake rubbing occurring at my front rotor. I have adjusted, adjusted, and re-adjusted countless times. It never fails....after a typical sustained braking....i get a rub at the front.......usually light rubbing....but occasionally moderate. I can usually get rid of it by some brake lever pulsing.....or after some time goes by.....only for it to promptly return.....this has been occurring basically since I bought the bike. Rear never gives me any problems. Early on the LBS 'adjusted'.....but no better/worse results than from my own adjustments. I had thought a rotor replacement might be an option but have not yet been compelled to try.

@mfgrep: I do not think your rotors are warped. Please loosen the brake caliper screws, then keep the respective brake lever depressed, then tighten the screws. Not sure if you have ever done it? The brake rotors are rather stiff and sturdy. No issues with my rotors for 12,000 km...