SL 4 crank wobble/ grinding noise
- Thread starter Simonc60
- Start date
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
How old is your Vado SL? The drive side crankarm was identically damaged on my Vado SL after less than 3 years from the e-bike purchase, the same wobble. I ordered a new single crankarm for the same side from my Specialized LBS, replaced it, and all is fine. Later, I found I could have ordered the crankarm from an independent online store that carries Specialized stuff. Taking into account the shipment cost, the cost from either source was identical. It is good a single crankarm can be ordered!
I took ownership of mine in August last year so only 13 months old. I am hoping that it should be replaced under warranty but if not, I’m guessing that I’ll need extra tools ( torque wrench, hex key and crank puller)to remove it ?, thanks for your advice though and
pete H
Active Member
- Region
- United Kingdom
My SL4 developed play on the crankshaft at 6 months old. My LBS filed a complaint on my behalf to Specialized and they replaced the motor under warranty.
I was in the LBS last week and they informed me that Specialized have discovered that the crank could be adjusted up and that motor replacement is not necessary. Good luck
I was in the LBS last week and they informed me that Specialized have discovered that the crank could be adjusted up and that motor replacement is not necessary. Good luck
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Not. No crank-puller necessary. You only need any applicable wrench to remove your pedal (possibly an 8 mm hex or an appropriate flat wrench, depending on the pedal) and a regular 8 mm hex wrench (20 cm long) to pull the crankarm off then to pull the new crankarm onto the spindle.
This technology ("self-extracting crankarm") is breathtakingly good and easy.
To Pull The Crankarm Off
After having the pedal removed, insert the short end of the 20 cm long 8 mm hex wrench into the spindle socket. Start rotating the wrench anticlockwise (it is a normal direction to unscrew). It will be hard, so put a lot of effort. Pulling the crank off is a slow process, as the crank must be pulled off the conical spindle end. After many slow turns, the crankarm will get released.
To Pull The New Crankarm On
Place the end of the new crankarm onto the spindle thread. Again, insert the short end of the hex wrench into the socket and start rotating the wrench clockwise. Pulling the crankarm on takes time, many rotations and effort. When the wrench stops rotating, push the end of the wrench with all your might so it stops moving completely. Alternatively, you could use an automotive (long) torque wrench: the torque is indicated on the crankarm (it could be two unrelated values, select the greater of two. I think it is 40-50 Nm, which is a lot).
I need to say I replaced the crankarm myself only using my hand and a 20 cm long 8 mm hex wrench.
Good luck!
P.S. PLEASE READ THIS
Last edited:
fifteenkey
New Member
- Region
- USA
Is a washer or spacer in the mix? My crank fell off and since I put it back and tightened it, there's a little bit of play in in there.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
No extra parts there. It looks these cranks are somewhat vulnerable.
Cycologist
New Member
- Region
- USA
Chalk up another bad crank arm. Mine is bad on the chainring side.
I started hearing a noise and feeling a click on the right side when pedaling.
Sometimes it would do it, sometimes it wouldn't, but it slowly got worse until it's now doing it all the time.
At first, I didn't notice the crank arm was loose, but now it's gotten so bad that I can wiggle it around.
I took it off and inspected it, but didn't notice anything wrong, other than the bolt sure has a lot of vertical play, but that might be normal.
I put it back on and made sure it was at the required 50 nm of torque, but it still wiggled.
I never crashed or dropped the bike, so this must be normal wear.
I've only had the bike eight months and so far, I'm not impressed with the durability of it.
I've had issues with the rear brake caliper constantly coming loose (which should now be fixed).
The rear wheel hub is loose.
And now the crank arm is loose and probably needs to be replaced.
Thankfully the motor and battery seem fine, at least for now.
My old bike is a 24-year-old GT mountain bike which was $850.
It probably has over 25,000 miles on it, and I've never had any major issues.
These bikes have a 2-year warranty, correct?
If so, I'll bring it in for warranty work, otherwise I could replace it myself.
Anyone know of a reliable supplier of Specialized parts?
I started hearing a noise and feeling a click on the right side when pedaling.
Sometimes it would do it, sometimes it wouldn't, but it slowly got worse until it's now doing it all the time.
At first, I didn't notice the crank arm was loose, but now it's gotten so bad that I can wiggle it around.
I took it off and inspected it, but didn't notice anything wrong, other than the bolt sure has a lot of vertical play, but that might be normal.
I put it back on and made sure it was at the required 50 nm of torque, but it still wiggled.
I never crashed or dropped the bike, so this must be normal wear.
I've only had the bike eight months and so far, I'm not impressed with the durability of it.
I've had issues with the rear brake caliper constantly coming loose (which should now be fixed).
The rear wheel hub is loose.
And now the crank arm is loose and probably needs to be replaced.
Thankfully the motor and battery seem fine, at least for now.
My old bike is a 24-year-old GT mountain bike which was $850.
It probably has over 25,000 miles on it, and I've never had any major issues.
These bikes have a 2-year warranty, correct?
If so, I'll bring it in for warranty work, otherwise I could replace it myself.
Anyone know of a reliable supplier of Specialized parts?
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