Should I spray WD-40 into my battery lock? (Yamaha external)

[bikeman242]

Should I periodically, after riding in the rain, spray some WD-40 into the locking mechanism for my battery of my external Yamaha system to clean it out? Trying to prevent corrosion, but not sure if these parts are all stainless and if it is necessary.

 

[indianajo]

WD40 evaporates in a week. Spray some on a plastic bag and look at in a week. Great for freeing up stuck joints & locks, useless as a lubricant.
I use SUS32 (5w) non-detergent oil as a general bike & lock lube. In quarts as type A or F ATF (NOT DEXRON) or in gallons as sus32 generic hydraulic fluid at tractor supplies. Or in 55 gallon drums as rock oil, which my previous employer lubed conveyor drive chains with weekly. This oil evaporates in a year. Car motor oil has detergent, which attracts water from the air, don't use it. You can buy various branded bike products at the bike shop which cost $50 an ounce and have tremendous brand loyalty.

 

[Bruce Arnold]

Graphite. It's dry but slippery. Doesn't attract dust and won't get gummy like WD-40. Google "lock lubricant" and it's the first entry.

 

[TMH]

Locksmiths I have spoken with love it when folks use WD40 in locks - gives them future business.

As described above, graphite is best for locks. I used to have powdered graphite which I used to lube bearings or bushings in RC race cars. Worked O.K. in locks too, but now I keep the aerosol type (which is graphite dispersed in a quickly and cleanly evaporating solvent) at the house as it penetrates further.

 

[Mike TowpathTraveler]

Bill, assuming you keep your bike in a garage when not riding it as I do with my Haibike Full FatSix, you should have no corrosion issues happening with your lock.

3 years ownership of my Yamaha powered fatbike, a few hose downs with light spray water and soapy water to clean the bike on those occasions when it required that kind of cleaning, and no issues whatsoever of the lock having issues opening and closing.

 

[erider_61]

As a Locksmith...dry graphite lubricant should be your only choice for any locks....

 

[Saru9999]

I just used petroleum bike degreaser. once all the dirt came out.. started to turn.

 

[Dallant]

I’ve used WD-40 for car locks so they don’t freeze up in winter. Beyond that, I use graphite, if anything.

 

[smorgasbord]

Should I periodically, after riding in the rain, spray some WD-40 into the locking mechanism for my battery of my external Yamaha system to clean it out? Trying to prevent corrosion, but not sure if these parts are all stainless and if it is necessary.

While everyone points out that WD-40 isn't a lubricant, that's not what the @bikeman242 is asking for. He's looking to prevent corrosion, not lubricate.

WD-40 is indeed sold as a "corrosion inhibitor." The problem isn't that it evaporates, it's actually the opposite; That it sticks around and is somewhat tacky so it holds onto dirt, which gums things up. So, it is not appropriate for locks, which need lubrication to run smoothly. If you start using WD-40, then you'll be using it periodically in order to use fresh WD-40 to clean out old gummy WD-40.

Actually, many bike chain lubricants are appropriate for use in locks, as they're designed to lubricate and not attract/hold onto dirt.

But, if you don't already have corrosion, the standard for locks is dry powder graphite - but again that's for house door locks, which don't get the same rain/dirt/mud exposure as our bicycles can. I've read that synthetic lubricants like Tri-Flow are fine.

 

[antboy]

Should I periodically, after riding in the rain, spray some WD-40 into the locking mechanism for my battery of my external Yamaha system to clean it out? Trying to prevent corrosion, but not sure if these parts are all stainless and if it is necessary.

If you're concerned about preventing corrosion, I'd say get some ACF-50 instead of WD-40. It's more expensive, but it'll last longer and work much better, as a little goes a long way. 32oz (about 1 liter) cost me less than $40 Canadian about 2 years ago, and I still have most of it left.

I've put it in my battery locks, as well as my bike locks, with no issues, and it completely restored the mechanism of an older sticky U-lock I've had for 20 years.

It can be used to treat just about every part of your bike including the electronics. I've put it on all the connectors of my hub bike including all the connectors, since that bike gets ridden in the worst conditions. Just do NOT get it on the brakes/pads. I also don't think it would be good for any kind of suspension, given its properties.

I've even used it to bring new life to both plastic and metal fenders.

There's some who have used it as a chain lube, or in combination with a chain lube, but I can't speak to that. If it's good enough for the aerospace industry, the military, and motorcycle enthusiasts, it's good enough for me.

There's a few threads in the forum about ACF-50. It's worth reading up on.

 

[tomjasz]

I'd say get some ACF-50

An invaluable eBike product. I've used it for over a decade and the results are outstanding. Boeshield a great choice too!!

 

[smorgasbord]

If I wanted to clean a lock mechanism - or most mechanical mechanisms out - I'd use White Lightning Clean Streak. It's a great degreaser and leaves no residue of its own, so you can then lubricate with the lubricant of your choice. I also use it on my bicycle chains. It cleans really well.

 

[tomjasz]

WD40 worked better for me.

Interesting. I consider WD40 a solvent. It's not very persistent protection.

 

[tomjasz]

I used 40WD for a few years old sticky Kryptonite U-lock too, worked very well.

Agreed. I just found the aircraft products more persistent and protective. As always, just an opinion. YMMV

 

[Dallant]

While everyone points out that WD-40 isn't a lubricant, that's not what the @bikeman242 is asking for. He's looking to prevent corrosion, not lubricate.

WD-40 is indeed sold as a "corrosion inhibitor." The problem isn't that it evaporates, it's actually the opposite; That it sticks around and is somewhat tacky so it holds onto dirt, which gums things up. So, it is not appropriate for locks, which need lubrication to run smoothly. If you start using WD-40, then you'll be using it periodically in order to use fresh WD-40 to clean out old gummy WD-40.

Actually, many bike chain lubricants are appropriate for use in locks, as they're designed to lubricate and not attract/hold onto dirt.

But, if you don't already have corrosion, the standard for locks is dry powder graphite - but again that's for house door locks, which don't get the same rain/dirt/mud exposure as our bicycles can. I've read that synthetic lubricants like Tri-Flow are fine.

I‘ve used WD in car & exterior padlocks because it supposedly displaces water and thus keeps them from freezing up. I’m no chemist so all I know is I’ve been using it for this purpose as long as I remember and it’s always worked just fine.
WD-40® literally stands for Water Displacement, 40th formula. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed the product back in 1953. The chemist, Norm Larsen, was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion—a task which is done by displacing water. ... The WD-40 floats!

 

[tomjasz]

Yup. I used it too. Until I worked for an FBO in Missoula MT. ACF50 was found in the Jet Ranger mechanics maintenance products.

 

[Dallant]

Should I periodically, after riding in the rain, spray some WD-40 into the locking mechanism for my battery of my external Yamaha system to clean it out? Trying to prevent corrosion, but not sure if these parts are all stainless and if it is necessary.

To answer this question, I would use the WD in very small amounts, IF you are really getting your lock WET. I’ve yet to do that or to use anything in my locks and it still works perfectly.

 

[danielXchain]

I would recommend you to clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol and then use the spray, just to be sure

 

[Tars Tarkas]

Just my opinion: I might use WS-40 as a preliminary cleaner in a lock. I'd flush the lock with it until it was running out clear. Then I'd want to flush the WD-40 out of lock with something like isopropyl alcohol, let it dry and then use graphite. And it might work to prevent a lock freezing, but there are better products for the purpose. I've had locks gum up from WD-40. They can be cleaned and freed up with more WD-40, but it's not good to leave a WD-40 film in a lock.

TT

 

[fooferdoggie]

Yup. I used it too. Until I worked for an FBO in Missoula MT. ACF50 was found in the Jet Ranger mechanics maintenance products.

yep us to in all my abus locks those always need a good lube.