spokewrench
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
Seth prefers Schrader valves
- Thread starter spokewrench
- Start date
Chargeride
Well-Known Member
He's not wrong, I don't like them at all, the nut seizes up and then when you try a bit more force the valve unscrews.
harryS
Well-Known Member
I don't like them because the air pumps I owned didn't attach well. Always leaked especially with hand pumps. I guess there is a knack to it, but I put shraeder adapters on the stems of the two bikes I own that use Presta,
On new wheels, if they are Presta, I open up the holes with a step drill. They sell adapter washers if I ever want to go back. Yes, there is a fit problem with narrow rims using Shraeders, but I can deal with that,
On new wheels, if they are Presta, I open up the holes with a step drill. They sell adapter washers if I ever want to go back. Yes, there is a fit problem with narrow rims using Shraeders, but I can deal with that,
indianajo
Well-Known Member
Me too. My brother has had presta valves on a tandem for 25 years, and has never learned how to unscrew the lock nut to add air. He hauls his bike 15 miles one way to REI to get the tires filled. Of course he puts 100000 miles a year on his pickup for his business, so what is 30 more? Except 90 minutes wasted he could have been exercising.
He still has not learned the gadget that screws on a presta is a plunger protector, not a schraeder valve adapter.
He still has not learned the gadget that screws on a presta is a plunger protector, not a schraeder valve adapter.
Mike TowpathTraveler
Well-Known Member
Never had a problem with Presta's since I took to them in the late 1970's.
To each, their own.
To each, their own.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
He is a cheapo idiot. He prefers the 3x drivetrain, too.
And bought a Reevo
Quality rims are never made for Schrader.
And bought a Reevo
Quality rims are never made for Schrader.
Mr. Breeze
Member
I use Fillmore valves - an improvement on the original presta, but expensive. I too am in the Schrader camp unless on a narrow wheeled road bike. Call me a cheapo idiot, but I'm considering converting to Schrader on all my emtb's
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
I had never seen a Presta valve until I bought my Raleigh 10-speed ~1982.
I had to pedal back to the bike shop and ask how to put air in the tires.
The guy gave me an adapter that I managed to figure out.
(I realized that I had to "unlock" the valve first.)
The bike had center-pull brakes with the caliper bolted through the forks.
The caliper mounting bolt threads were sticking through the fork about ¼" and I managed to screw the adapter to it.
It wasn't the correct thread but the adapter would thread on ½ a turn and bind.
It was snug enough to not fall off, so that's where I kept the adapter so it was always on the bike.
I had to pedal back to the bike shop and ask how to put air in the tires.
The guy gave me an adapter that I managed to figure out.
(I realized that I had to "unlock" the valve first.)
The bike had center-pull brakes with the caliper bolted through the forks.
The caliper mounting bolt threads were sticking through the fork about ¼" and I managed to screw the adapter to it.
It wasn't the correct thread but the adapter would thread on ½ a turn and bind.
It was snug enough to not fall off, so that's where I kept the adapter so it was always on the bike.
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
I didn't have a problem with them after I learned how to use them.
The "Pro Mechanic" at the bike shop said that NO Bicycle tire is inflated to 120 PSI.
All normal 27" 10-speed tires were ~85 PSI maximum.
I had a European sized metric 700C tires and I pointed to the writing on the tire itself that said "Inflate to 120 PSI".
That shut him up.
I did like how the Presta valve was threaded on with a nut, so the valve didn't push in when you tried to inflate a flat tire.
But, I kinda liked how the rubber Schrader valve stem would bend over to the side if the tube wasn't centered in the tire/rim perfectly.
A Presta valved tube is more inclined to rip at the valve stem, because it is rigidly held to the rim.
indianajo
Well-Known Member
The U-tube video is about mountain bikes. Presta is fine for skinny tired race bikes on absolutely smooth wood velodromes. Maybe okay on prepared "Tour de" race courses. Presta are misapplied to mountain bikes out in the dirt and the rocks. The exposed plunger is quite fragile, even if you have not ruined one cover by trying to use it as a schraeder adapter.
Filling them, the Lyzene pump has a great fill hose that does schraeder and presta at opposite ends. Better decide if you have mountain bike tires or skinny race tires when you buy the pump. They come in a medium pressure (80 psi) and high pressure (130) versions.
I had to put reading glasses on to determine why the presta plunger would not go down on my brother's bike. Locknut on the plunger. I doubt if my brother that owns the bike with presta ever put his face right down on the ground to get a good look at it. He certainly was not trained at the bike shop where he bought it. Plus, my brother does all tire filling with his 2 hp dewalt 120 vac air pump. Its high volume is iffy even filling 2.1"x26" tires. His tandem has 35mmx27 tires.
Filling them, the Lyzene pump has a great fill hose that does schraeder and presta at opposite ends. Better decide if you have mountain bike tires or skinny race tires when you buy the pump. They come in a medium pressure (80 psi) and high pressure (130) versions.
I had to put reading glasses on to determine why the presta plunger would not go down on my brother's bike. Locknut on the plunger. I doubt if my brother that owns the bike with presta ever put his face right down on the ground to get a good look at it. He certainly was not trained at the bike shop where he bought it. Plus, my brother does all tire filling with his 2 hp dewalt 120 vac air pump. Its high volume is iffy even filling 2.1"x26" tires. His tandem has 35mmx27 tires.
lnanek
New Member
- Region
- USA
I use Muc-Off Big Bore Hybrid Tubeless Valves. It's great. No delicate little valve core to clog up. I either attach my huge syringe looking Stan's sealant injector, then spin the valve dial open, and inject; or attach my Topeak Joe Blow booster pump with the metal twin head dx head upgrade, then spin the valve dial open, and then spin the pump pump dial from charge to inflate.
Regardless, never clogs, never leaks, and always either gets a blast of sealant or air before dialing closed again. It's like an air lock for your tires. Spaceship grade. No PITA removing the Schrader valve core always before injecting sealant - there is no valve core.
Regardless, never clogs, never leaks, and always either gets a blast of sealant or air before dialing closed again. It's like an air lock for your tires. Spaceship grade. No PITA removing the Schrader valve core always before injecting sealant - there is no valve core.
DaveMatthews
Well-Known Member
Clik valve looks entertaining....
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
He is a cheapo idiot. He prefers the 3x drivetrain, too.
And bought a Reevo
Quality rims are never made for Schrader.
This is a Carbon Fat Bike rim that I am considering along with an H720 Automatic 2-speed Bafang Hub Motor.
It comes to over $330 CAD for the rim alone.
I chose how many spoke holes and what valve hole to be drilled in it.
I'm going to be a cheapo idiot and have it drilled for a shchrader valve.
I find it strange that I would convert an expensive carbon fiber rim into garbage by having it built for a Schrader valve ?
PS,.. The Schrader valve adapter that I had in the 80's didn't have an O-ring and would leak, especially with 120 PSI applied to it.
There are better adapters with O-rings available,..
Attachments
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
So you are going to drill the double wall rims just to fit Schrader valves?
Mike TowpathTraveler
Well-Known Member
I really, really seriously doubt I am getting through to those MTB'ers and Fat Tired Bikers who venture off into deep sand...... or get outside with 4-6 inches of snow on the ground; but here goes:
An added bonus of a Presta tubed or Presta-tubeless set up is that the actual tire valve is held dead-center in the rim's valve stem hole. FYI: Going off road in deep sand or snow means "airing" down your tire pressure from say, 20 psi (hard road tire pressure) to anywhere from 4-9 psi off road. Those lower tire pressures present more of a tire patch in that deep stuff as well as allowing you to somewhat "float" on top of the deep sand.
If you lower tire pressure that much on a schrader, chances are real good the tube and valve can shift within the tire. And then you will have to get that valve stem centered back in the rim hole. And you know what that means, right? Trailside disassembly of the tire and tube! On the Presta tube, the valve stem is held right in the center by the locking nut. Winner winner, chicken dinner!
I've been reading Bicycling magazine since the 70's. Touring for about the same length of time. Bought the books on touring and bike set-up. With the advent of the internet, I've gone through most every site there is, from this one, to Bike Forums. Bike Packing. And others. This site here is the only one where I've come across possibly the last hard-core group of people who think schrader is the end-all, be all.
But as I said in my last post, to each, their own. But do read up a bit on why Presta has been around for so long in the bicycle world.
An added bonus of a Presta tubed or Presta-tubeless set up is that the actual tire valve is held dead-center in the rim's valve stem hole. FYI: Going off road in deep sand or snow means "airing" down your tire pressure from say, 20 psi (hard road tire pressure) to anywhere from 4-9 psi off road. Those lower tire pressures present more of a tire patch in that deep stuff as well as allowing you to somewhat "float" on top of the deep sand.
If you lower tire pressure that much on a schrader, chances are real good the tube and valve can shift within the tire. And then you will have to get that valve stem centered back in the rim hole. And you know what that means, right? Trailside disassembly of the tire and tube! On the Presta tube, the valve stem is held right in the center by the locking nut. Winner winner, chicken dinner!
I've been reading Bicycling magazine since the 70's. Touring for about the same length of time. Bought the books on touring and bike set-up. With the advent of the internet, I've gone through most every site there is, from this one, to Bike Forums. Bike Packing. And others. This site here is the only one where I've come across possibly the last hard-core group of people who think schrader is the end-all, be all.
But as I said in my last post, to each, their own. But do read up a bit on why Presta has been around for so long in the bicycle world.
Mr. Coffee
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- A Demented Corner of the North Cascades
All tubeless shrader valves I've ever seen have a lock nut.
My own experience with tubeless (presta valves) is that the lock nuts tend to work loose and the best thing is to have at least two lock nuts on the valve to keep them in place. Another infuriating thing that can happen with a Lezyne-style pump head (that screws onto the valve) is that you will loosen the lock nuts when you put the pump head on. Two lock nuts sort of solves that problem. I had some fancy allow valve caps I was using for a while and they also tended to stick to the valve and loosen the lock nuts. Loose lock nuts are very bad with tubeless.
You should always carry a couple of spare valve cores (they are tiny) and a valve core tool (also tiny). Because valve cores fail for a lot of reasons and if they get clogged the best thing to do on the road is pull the clogged one and put a new one in there. In a pinch I've also cannibalized the valve core off of a spare inner tube.
I also usually put a tiny drop of purple loctite on the valve for to keep it from unscrewing when I don't want it to.
Also a good idea to put valve caps on any valve, no matter what the Cool Kids say or do.
My own experience with tubeless (presta valves) is that the lock nuts tend to work loose and the best thing is to have at least two lock nuts on the valve to keep them in place. Another infuriating thing that can happen with a Lezyne-style pump head (that screws onto the valve) is that you will loosen the lock nuts when you put the pump head on. Two lock nuts sort of solves that problem. I had some fancy allow valve caps I was using for a while and they also tended to stick to the valve and loosen the lock nuts. Loose lock nuts are very bad with tubeless.
You should always carry a couple of spare valve cores (they are tiny) and a valve core tool (also tiny). Because valve cores fail for a lot of reasons and if they get clogged the best thing to do on the road is pull the clogged one and put a new one in there. In a pinch I've also cannibalized the valve core off of a spare inner tube.
I also usually put a tiny drop of purple loctite on the valve for to keep it from unscrewing when I don't want it to.
Also a good idea to put valve caps on any valve, no matter what the Cool Kids say or do.
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