Riding Mid Drive on only highest gear

[Mike TowpathTraveler]

Similar priority here (maximizing the miles per charge), but I have a WAY different take on what works best for ME. I use the lowest amount of power possible to maintain my chosen cadence at my chosen speed, usually PAS 1 (of 5) and 10-14mph. If I'm feeling strained, or just flat pooped, that when PAS 2 is used. Rarely will I need to go higher than that.

I do get there's very likely a big difference in our level of fitness, and almost surely your chosen cadence is going to be higher than anything I would be able to maintain. Then there's the big difference in the rolling resistance between our chosen bike styles. But good lord, 92 miles? That's pretty much double the number I get when out on any of mine, while using a smaller battery..... Pretty impressive Mike! -Al

Al, many thanks! I've long been convinced that there is not one particular component, one particular tire, anything and everything including riding styles that is a fit-one/fits all standard. That's why I'll pretty much stay away from those threads asking advice about what saddle or grip works best.

About that one 92 ride: In the end, I was using minimal power levels on the Yamaha and hardly any appreciable time spent in the high power setting. That made for a nice run in that it was great to be out there; but I was out there pedaling a 60 some odd pound tank. Not much fun in that and what it did was convince me to splurge on an extra 500wh battery. So that brought my ideal closer of running exclusively in High Power on any long distance run over 25 miles.

But having that great power and the extra battery is like eating a good potato chip. If one extra 500wh battery is great; 2 can only be betterer!

And if two is betterer, having a 3rd 500wh battery to complement the original 400 is, well.....the bestest!

Last early spring I inquired of a 745wh battery from Germany. It seems that finally someone in the biz has a way to bring that battery into the US. 400 + 1500 + 745 opens up the potential for about 150 miles of riding in the High power setting, over 200 in the lessor. And the mind boggles, at least this one does.

Some ride pics.....

This was taken at my turn-around point, Delaware & Raritan Canal state park in Milford, NJ. The red clay dusting the bike was from riding the Delaware and Lehigh canal towpath on the opposite side of the Delaware, in Pennsylvania. This is my old setup; bikepacking bag in the rear and front rack and bag for other items. Some 45 plus miles in the ride, a single 400wh battery, conserving power by using a combo of Eco/Eco+/Standard and a wee bit of run time in all-out High.

Done in July, I had alot of daylight to do this daytrip. 95.4 miles.....

With 18% battery charge remaining. 95 miles using 82% battery charge. Not bad.

At the expense of not frying my battery charge to near 0; I ended up dehydrating and frying myself! But that's just part of the fun within this ebike game we play!

 

[PedalUma]

I made a single speed coaster brake mid-drive. I gave full disclosure on its limitations and also how to ride it. Launches must be very gentle, it is not a climber. But she loves her old Huffy and wanted the conversion after knowing the facts. She keeps it at her parent's flat trailer park for visits and rides on flat trails at low speeds. This is how that bike turned out. One wire at the HB and no connectors. Ebikes don't get cleaner. Oh, I am just back from a cargo ride to the huge discount grocery store. I need to ride three times per day at least. I will be getting wet the next couple of days, but it is worth it.

 

[PedalUma]

Notes on that photo: The shadow tells all. See the super grippy, light MTB pedals in the shadow? See the circle of the smoothie/coffee cup holder and no wires. That is thru frame baby! I used a tall quill riser stem. I also polished out all the silver, each spoke, seat post and the HB. Look again and you will see the capsized boat. That kid just wiped out. I also polished out the matte dove blue frame, fenders and rims, and used a special DOT 5 based formula for restoring bikes from Burning Man on all the rubber and plastic. That is a 15 year-old bike that was originally $120 from Target. The new chain is as strong as a belt and the chainguard was preserved. She has double wide paniers for shopping for her parents which attach to the rack. It has a large cog, 22-t, for easy going with a 42 ring.

Edit: Simple, casual bike, yet it still kicks the butts over the Euros in Spandex. The torque sensor gives 85Nm and is not limited. Immediate on demand. Wheel size is set at 100cm diameter with no speed sensor/limiter and with speed at 45Kph. It is a perky as 5hit.

 

[tomjasz]

Look again and you will see the capsized boat.

Sabot!

 

[AHicks]

Re: the capsized boat, the other one has let his sail out while attempting to pick up the guy that likely dumped the tipped boat, seen as just a head just in front of the upright boat!! Raised on a lake myself, and having messed with sail boats that big and a little bigger (Hobie 16's), the guys involved are likely having a blast, laughing like a couple of idiots. If it were me, there may have been some alcohol involved... Good times!

 

[tomjasz]

Re: the capsized boat, the other one has let his sail out while attempting to pick up the guy that likely dumped the tipped boat, seen as just a head just in front of the upright boat!! Raised on a lake myself, and having messed with sail boats that big and a little bigger (Hobie 16's), the guys involved are likely having a blast, laughing like a couple of idiots. If it were me, there may have been some alcohol involved... Good times!

I taught sailing at a residential girls camp for a couple of seasons. My escape was to grab a Sabot and take advabtag3 of a light and steady breeze, tie down the rudder and main sheet and nap barely sailing up th3 long lake. The first time I did the camp owners freaked and sent the rescue boat out. All they could see was an empty boat slowly moving across the lake. I haven’t sailed except on dirt and hard water in nearly 30 years, but all 3 give me peyote grins. Grinning so hard my cheeks ache. My dirtboats remain the craziest of sailing adventures.

 

[PedalUma]

Time for a ride before the next rain in two hours. I decked out my three-speed with a red bow, flashing Christmas lights and a wreath. Yes, I promise to shift gears! We will have a first annual lighted bike parade on the 16th.

 

[username00101]

Is there a way to change the shape of the gears to decrease cadence but still spin the motor, such as increasing the diameter of the gear wheel device? So the motor turns but my legs don't have to move as fast to create the turning of the chain?

The issue is that high cadence is uncomfortable but it sounds like high cadence is the way to prevent the motor from getting too hot and failing.

 

[PedalUma]

Is there a way to change the shape of the gears to decrease cadence but still spin the motor, such as increasing the diameter of the gear wheel device? So the motor turns but my legs don't have to move as fast to create the turning of the chain?

The issue is that high cadence is uncomfortable but it sounds like high cadence is the way to prevent the motor from getting too hot and failing.

That is a BBS02 or HD. They can be ghost pedaled. That is what you are asking for. Those motors spin independently from pedaling speed. If you barely pedal they will go full speed. It is disconcerting to me. But that is what you want.

 

[AHicks]

Is there a way to change the shape of the gears to decrease cadence but still spin the motor, such as increasing the diameter of the gear wheel device? So the motor turns but my legs don't have to move as fast to create the turning of the chain?

The issue is that high cadence is uncomfortable but it sounds like high cadence is the way to prevent the motor from getting too hot and failing.

You have 2 different issues here. Regarding "cadence", many will change the front gear/chain ring to one with a few more teeth (4 to 6 more than existing) - assuming there is room to do that. It's not hard or expensive, and it WILL reduce your cadence.

The other thing, heat build up, is easily managed with the watt meter. Keep the watts the motor is pulling at any given time within reason, or allow for a cool down period after running it hard, and you should be fine.

 

[username00101]

You have 2 different issues here. Regarding "cadence", many will change the front gear/chain ring to one with a few more teeth (4 to 6 more than existing) - assuming there is room to do that. It's not hard or expensive, and it WILL reduce your cadence.

The other thing, heat build up, is easily managed with the watt meter. Keep the watts the motor is pulling at any given time within reason, or allow for a cool down period after running it hard, and you should be fine.

yeah. That watt meter is something I pay attention to closely now. I always thought it was there for fun, not that if it goes above a certain amount it burns out the motor.

It would be VERY easy for the computer developer to make the text RED if it goes above 500W so the person knew to stop.

My car temp gage goes red when its overheating, its very easy to do with a bike too. They make thermometers the motor developer can attach to the computer.

Very easy fix, no more expensive for the manufacturer. Why don't they add a temp gauge?

 

[AHicks]

yeah. That watt meter is something I pay attention to closely now. I always thought it was there for fun, not that if it goes above a certain amount it burns out the motor.

It would be VERY easy for the computer developer to make the text RED if it goes above 500W so the person knew to stop.

My car temp gage goes red when its overheating, its very easy to do with a bike too. They make thermometers the motor developer can attach to the computer.

Very easy fix, no more expensive for the manufacturer. Why don't they add a temp gauge?

You can easily run it up to twice it's 500w rating for a couple of minutes, you just have to have the presence of mind to let it cool afterward. It's not that big a deal. If that's not enough power, make a mental note, and make sure the next bike has a motor WAY bigger?

I do agree, from a functional standpoint, there could be a simple warning system installed at a minimum cost.