Ride1UP Mid Drive Teaser

I bought 2 LMT'D bikes in December 2020. The main reason I bought them for me and my wife is we both had cadence sensors bikes before and we wanted the torque sensors because it was a more fun and realistic biking experience, where it felt like the rider was in control of the bike instead of the controller being in charge.

It was also safer and more predictable when on tricky narrow single track trails, you could precisely maneuver the bike around low speed sharp turns and obstacles without always changing the power settings, and feel the confidence of being totally in control of the bike, instead of the setting you are in and the bike wanting to go a certain speed when all you did was turn the crank one revolution and now you are surging forward.

We got to the point where sometimes on a tricky part of the trail, we would actually have to dismount and walk the bikes since we had no precise control over what the motor would do. All that doubt and uncertainty went away when we got our new torque sensorsed LMT'D's. Single tracks were easier again, like when we had our older standard mountain bikes.

We ride for the fun of it plus the exercise benefit. If we had hip, leg, knee etc. problems, we undoubtedly would prefer the cadence where all you had to do to move forward is ghost pedal. Like I said, we wanted more of a real and fun biking experience, on roads, bike paths, fire roads and bike trails, even single track.

Part of that real biking experience is exercise. To be honest, if we were decades younger, we would probably still be on good lightweight mountain bikes, so I hope you can see where we are coming from. The only thing we miss is being on bikes 30 or more pounds lighter.

Another BIG reason we bought the LMTD'S was it being so lightweight compared to other e bikes in the similar price range. 5, 10, 15, 20 pounds lighter in most cases. The only e bikes close to their weight have smaller motors and batteries, so really not comparable at all.

The previous cadence e bikes we had were difficult to ride together on the street or paths since one person would constantly have to ghost pedal or stop pedaling completely to stay together. We both prefer to spin constantly, the the torque sensor gave us exactly that. You could spin lighter or softer and the bike would go slightly faster or slower, like a standard bike, i.e. it was a pain in the ass to ride together with cadence sensor only.

There is no way to program a cadence sensor to predict what you want to do, from simply setting a power level and it sensing crank movement. When you are pedaling It always wants to go that preset speed, or faster if you are pedaling harder, or not at all. Never will it go less than the programmed speed, unless you actually stop pedaling or change the power setting. Start, stop, start, stop. What A PITA.

The torque sensor senses your foots' pressure on the pedals and exactly mimics that. What could be better? I have only 3 preset power levels on our bikes, and that is perfect and simple, minimal thought is involved so you can concentrate on the trail riding and gear selection. The power level is almost an afterthought.

We both love our torque sensing bikes we have now and wouldn't trade them for anything else out there. For us, they are perfect.

If they were only cadence sensored, we would have had to look elsewhere.

Please don't kill the torque sensor. Old school thinking some might say. We are both in our late 60's and have ridden mountain bikes on pavement and dirt for a long, long time. We just take it a bit easier nowadays. Very hard to find 50 pound or less e bikes like this one.

Thank you for making these bikes available to us, as other options are almost double the price or more.

A great bike.






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When you are pedaling It always wants to go that preset speed, or faster if you are pedaling harder, or not at all. Never will it go less than the programmed speed, unless you actually stop pedaling or change the power setting. Start, stop, start, stop. What A PITA.
I'm still considering a LMTD with torque sensor, but it's no wonder you had such a poor experience on your cadence sensor bikes. They were speed based cadence based PAS. The power based cadence PAS with configuration power settings are much better. They do not go to a preset speed as you complained about. You can lower the assist, and it will provide minimal assist when pedaling so that you can get as much exercise as you want while still getting the benefits of an ebike. It won't surge. Plus hit the throttle if you want a quick boost. You just need the right cadence sensor based bike. I would not have wanted to use one that works as yours did. But for technical mountain bike riding, I would want a good mid drive torque sensor based PAS, not a LMTD or any cadence sensor based PAS. The LMTD is really meant more for streets and mild paths. Someone on the FB group tried to ride his on soft dirt, and it shut down on him. He said it was a shitty trail bike.

Ride1Up has already made the decision to move to a cadence based PAS because most customers are happier with it. Their current generation cadence based PAS is power based, not speed based. The owner said the LMTD was their most frequently returned bike. In another year, they can reevaluate if they want to return to the torque sensor based PAS. These mid-drives should be a lot better and more responsive (they use torque sensors) and much quieter Brose motors. The LMTD PAS doesn't even cut off immediately when you stop pedaling - there's about a full second delay, which you can hear on the videos when the rider stops pedaling.

The mid-drive R1U bikes won't be available for a while, so I'm considering a R1U LMTD or 700. The LMTD is still selling with the torque sensor PAS for now. Most users of both bikes like them a lot and can get a good workout when the rider knows how to use them, and exercise is my main reason for riding. There are more problems reported with the LMTD, more returns, and people report it being noisier than the 700, so those are my concerns. On the other hand, I like that it's lighter and has torque sensor based PAS.
 
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Some real product photos!

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I'm still considering a LMTD with torque sensor, but it's no wonder you had such a poor experience on your cadence sensor bikes. They were speed based cadence based PAS. The power based cadence PAS with configuration power settings are much better. They do not go to a preset speed as you complained about. You can lower the assist, and it will provide minimal assist when pedaling so that you can get as much exercise as you want while still getting the benefits of an ebike. It won't surge. Plus hit the throttle if you want a quick boost. You just need the right cadence sensor based bike. I would not have wanted to use one that works as yours did. But for technical mountain bike riding, I would want a good mid drive torque sensor based PAS, not a LMTD or any cadence sensor based PAS. The LMTD is really meant more for streets and mild paths. Someone on the FB group tried to ride his on soft dirt, and it shut down on him. He said it was a shitty trail bike.

Ride1Up has already made the decision to move to a cadence based PAS because most customers are happier with it. Their current generation cadence based PAS is power based, not speed based. The owner said the LMTD was their most frequently returned bike. In another year, they can reevaluate if they want to return to the torque sensor based PAS. These mid-drives should be a lot better and more responsive (they use torque sensors) and much quieter Brose motors. The LMTD PAS doesn't even cut off immediately when you stop pedaling - there's about a full second delay, which you can hear on the videos when the rider stops pedaling.

The mid-drive R1U bikes won't be available for a while, so I'm considering a R1U LMTD or 700. The LMTD is still selling with the torque sensor PAS for now. Most users of both bikes like them a lot and can get a good workout when the rider knows how to use them, and exercise is my main reason for riding. There are more problems reported with the LMTD, more returns, and people report it being noisier than the 700, so those are my concerns. On the other hand, I like that it's lighter and has torque sensor based PAS.
I am not aware of a power based cadence sensor. I did a search and using different key words and found only info on torque vs standard cadence sensors. Can you please show me a link that explains the power based sensors so I can understand the theory behind them. Again, I never ran across this information. I am 69 years old, so not the most computer savvy.

When I read the problems people have with the LMTD it seems like it comes from not correctly tightening/torquing the bicycle completely. Any cranking noise is almost always loose crank/crank arms/pedals.

I went through and torqued EVERY bolt and fitting on the bike and NO complaints with weird noises or parts coming loose. You are just asking for it if you don't check and blue lock tight everything. It is one solid bike.

Since I recently put on 11/46 rear cassette with the original derailleur and stock crank, I have not had any problems with dropping chains because when I installed the new chain I made sure it was the exact recommended length. Also, I never descend steep bumpy terrain in highest gears, thus loose chain. You MUST also change to the correct knobby tires and we installed Redshift suspension seat posts and have a blast off road on these bikes. So I would tend to agree that the LMTD is a shitty trail bike...not low enough gearing, incorrect tires and rough ride on the seat. And we never ride trails that utterly demand a full suspension bike. That would be to much for the LMTD. But you would be surprised where it can go if outfitted properly.

For us, the almost 1 second lag is no big deal because we are older and ride downhill on single tracks at 60-80%, not at 100%. This is like having a greater following distance from the car in front of you on the freeway...lots more reaction time and more forgiving so almost 1 second lag is not a big deal. For anyone riding at the limit the almost 1 second delay would be a lot, I agree. Only some of our riding is this type. The rest is on paths and roads.

I realize that the bike is not perfect, nothing ever is. In the next year or two there will of course be something better at this price point.

I realize this is not a full suspension mid drive mountain bike, and don't use it at that extreme level. But I ride in areas where they also ride, and I pick and choose which trails to ride and stay off of. We are not that young anymore, but still enjoy the solitude and remoteness of these trails. I looked into full suspension e bikes and the ones I liked were triple or more what we paid, and since we also do a variety of other types of riding, it just didn't seem to make any sense, considering how quickly the bikes are improving and the fact that we ride it on much more than just mountain trails.

I can see myself replacing this bike sometime in the future, but the number one priority would be less weight. Everything else on the bike suits us just fine.

So everything I am saying only applies to RIGHT NOW and the latest generation of LMTD. Bought them in December.

I know they had controller problems the previous generation. I would be curious at what the return rate percentage is on the latest generation of LMTD (since late 2020). I would bet it is very low, and I wonder what those buyers replaced it with. Absolutely no alternative at this price point for me.

And at almost double the price, it still can't be beat right now, for our uses....IMHO.

And at only 51 pounds with that power and range? Come on. Go ahead, enlighten me. I am open minded.
Thanks.
 
And at only 51 pounds with that power and range? Come on. Go ahead, enlighten me. I am open minded.
Thanks.
The power based cadence PAS refers to the pedal assist system, not the cadence sensor itself. There's another thread here about cadence vs. torque that mentions it as well as one of the recent Espin threads. I can't get the link right now. Kevin from R1U mentioned moving from speed to current (power factor) in their cadence PAS in an interview he did in June 2020.
https://youtu.be/9tFylNSFmCM?t=1331

Instead of only providing assist to a specific speed, it provides a consistent amount of power to the motor at any speed to the class 3 limit.

Yeah, I was referring to the generation 2 LMTD. Kevin said they were switching to cadence because of people's expectations. But from reading the Ride1Up FB group, there were legitimate issues that people were having after the next batch (gen 2) with power shutting off, error codes, lack of power no matter how hard they pedaled, and sometimes he replaced controllers, which fixed them, not always. After the original LMTD's turned me away due early feedback, I was really leaning back towards the LMTD gen 2 with the new controller and display until issues continued with the second generation. Now I'm torn between the 700 and LMTD. And, I'll probably end up getting a second e-bike, but I might wait until the following spring depending on availability and such. Just in case of some sort of failure, I don't want to be out of commission waiting for parts.

By the way, the noise I was referring to was the motor noise, not loose nuts, etc. That's just based on reading a lot of reviews/feedback. Someone with a 700 and a LMTD said the LMTD was noisier. Haven't you noticed the LMTD to have a noisier motor? And the 700 is not exactly quiet!
 
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Thanks for the reply. I will check out the link. I like to understand the theory of how things work.

I guess maybe I just got lucky with our bikes. No issues EXCEPT the rear brake pad on both bikes rubbed and couldn't be adjusted out.. I fixed the disc centering problem by putting a thin washer between the axle and the frame. That moved the caliper in relation to the brake discs and fixed it perfectly and cost nothing. When I hand spin the rear tire it now rotates 20 times instead of only 2. I bet this is a problem with others, but they probably don't even realize it is happening. I initially thought is was just motor drag, and was a normal thing.

When we first got the LMTD I thought the motor noise was a little bothersome. We have put few hundred miles on them now and the noise does seem quieter and not bothersome at all to me or others. However, maybe SOME of that is just getting used to the noise. For sure the noise it makes now is not loud enough to be a little embarrassing, like I felt it was when it was brand new when compared to a manual bike. I think the plastic gears broke in a bit.

I am pretty picky about something that costs this much.

My biggest complaint is the obvious one...the weight. But the LMTD is one of the lightest you can find right now for the power and battery size it has.

Since we live in California and we go to lots of bike trails and county and state parks, I removed the thumb throttle, so to look at it, it looks just like a Class 1 bike. They go legally up to 750 watts here. I just took some masking tape and carefully black markered out the print that says "Class 3 Ebike" on the front. Then I removed the tape. Now it looks like a stock class 1.
It's all good now.
 
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If you wanted to swap in a different mid drive post sale, could you? Ie is the motor-frame interface proprietary to Brose or not?
 
Have Brose motors improved any in 2020 or 2021? This thread details repeated failures and unrepairability of them.

 
Have Brose motors improved any in 2020 or 2021? This thread details repeated failures and unrepairability of them.

Based on the repair tech who posted in the referenced thread I would still be wary... the internal belt and bearings are the Achilles heel of Brose.

We currently service/overhaul Brose, Bosch, Yamaha, Impulse and Panasonic motors, although some Brose repairs are currently limited, due to the way they are built. We have released a video of a Brose overhaul if your interested
As for reliability Bosch Vs Brose, they both have their issues (as do most pedelec motors) but with Bosch, most things are repairable.
With Brose, many things are not! If there is any issue with the planetary gears or electric motor, it's game over. If the crankshaft needle roller rusts, it quickly takes out the bearing surface on the crankshaft, game over.
Currently, if the crankshaft bearings fail, they are un-available, game over. (We are having these bearings manufactured soon) If the ICU fails, game over. If the belt tentioner snaps, game over.

We can replace the plastic caged sprag bearings when they fail with steel ones, and if caught in time we can fit better sealing into the needle roller bearing too.

As for Bosch, there is not much that can't be replaced or repaired on the Bosch motors, and apart from bearing failure, they don't tend to break components, we even have a solution for circuit board failure in the wings so good news for longevity.
Don't get me wrong, the Brose motor is a good motor, as others have said, it's quiet, it delivers smooth power and has a large chain ring for ride-ability without assistance etc. But based on the above, I would let you make your own minds up.
 
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Based on the repair tech who posted in the referenced thread I would still be wary of Brose... the internal belt and bearings are the Achilles heel.
Yeah, saw that, sounded pretty bad. I was sort of hoping something had changed since. Probably not.

I like the Prodigy but it has nothing to do with the mid-drive motor, but the lower weight, commuter accoutrements and rigid fork. If the Brose is as bad as it sounds reliability-wise, combined with Ride1Up's only 1 year warranty, this bike doesn't sound so enticing.

I proposed a bike like the Prodigy a year ago to Kevin (albeit with a hub motor and larger battery) and Kevin was skeptical of riding with a rigid fork. He wised up :). Maybe in another year he'll take the rest of my advice and do a hub motor version...

Ride1Up caught my attention with its value and finish. Instead of having just an inferior and superior bike, 500 and 700, I'd like to see a revived, upscale roadster model, as a more lithe alternative to the 700:

*Rigid fork
*Wide but light tire (like Conti Speed King, ~500 g), potentially tubeless ready. [used to be a wider tire]
*17.5 ah battery (thus the 800)
*Hydraulic disc and 9+ speeds
*750W and 28mph
*Fenders and rack
Price range: $1600-2000.

In other words, something responsive, powerful and athletic, and that if you took the battery off, would still be fun to ride once you get it moving.

This would be more like the Stromer and the Trek/Specialized models being fielded, where there is no heavy suspension fork. I had this on my Juiced, with a Salsa CroMoto fork, and it was a blessing.

I like it. Have some bad news good news here. We will be releasing two new models. The higher end one matches most of what you want, except it has suspension. Quick side note there; I don't know how your roads are, but here in California, potholes/cracks/bumps are everywhere. No front suspension can almost be dangerous. It can definitely throw you off balance when going over 20mph. If riding slowly, it's not so bad.
anyway, the high-end model we are releasing will have nearly everything you wanted, but with a air-suspension front fork from rst, and it will be $1699. It will go 28mph (or 31 if unrestricted) and have high-end components. It will be available this spring. Actually, it won't have fenders and rack stock, but that's something you can easily add of course. Our budget model will have no suspension, go 28mph, and look like the 700 series. It will be $999, so it will only have a stock 10.4ah battery and mechanical brakes. Compromises that don't bother me, but aren't exactly what you are looking for.

 
I proposed a bike like the Prodigy a year ago to Kevin (albeit with a hub motor and larger battery) and Kevin was skeptical of riding with a rigid fork. He wised up :). Maybe in another year he'll take the rest of my advice and do a hub motor version...
In an interview last year, Kevin also said they probably wouldn't expand their line up to include mid-drives.

At bookmarked point in this video:

The Brose motor concerns me as well - I remember reading the comment quoted above but also other comments about Brose motors' belts breaking repeatedly over a couple years. I don't like the trade-off just to have a quieter motor.
 
In an interview last year, Kevin also said they probably wouldn't expand their line up to include mid-drives.

At bookmarked point in this video:

The Brose motor concerns me as well - I remember reading the comment quoted above but also other comments about Brose motors' belts breaking repeatedly over a couple years. I don't like the trade-off just to have a quieter motor.
Yeah, I hate this meme that mid-drives are just better and the only thing stopping people from using them is money. I had a geared hub motor and it honestly felt great. The JUMP e-bike and the Copenhagen Wheel both felt pretty awesome, and both were hub motors. They're audible, sure, but it's not unpleasant in the city, and I'm not so insecure that I'd want to hide the fact that I'm riding an e-bike.

I'm curious as to why Kevin changed his mind. Maybe he was only thinking of Bosch before, which requires using pricey Bosch batteries. I'm guessing the Bosch Class 3 motor is too expensive for his taste, and/or he doesn't want to use Bosch batteries (a wise move). There is a $2100 Bosch ebike from Batch. https://www.batchbicycles.com/e-bike/

Most analog bikes in the Netherlands are heavy boring granny bikes with internal gear hubs, because sport and refinement isn't their absolute exclusive concern, general utility for transport (and outdoor storage) is. And hub motors are not nearly as boring as those bikes.

This was a good video where Bolton compares mid-drive and hub motors, on the same frames, which his company made.

 
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The Brose motor will have a 2 year warranty and servicing possibilities in most bike shops that are qualified to service brose motors. They are definitely more reliable than Bafang motors. No offensive to that Bolton video, but that's not a very thorough or comprehensive explanation on the difference between the motor types.

Specialized and Bulls use Brose, I'm not sure why you think they are unreliable. Here is a decent comp between Brose and Bosch -
,

Re that "$2100 Bosch ebike from Batch" - it using (by comparison) much cheaper components, as well as, the very MAJOR difference, a 20mph class 1 assisting motor.

Also, we do have a 28mph rigid fork model bike, the core-5. At only $1095. Add a 14ah battery for $389, and you have 24.4ah for under $1500. It's a fantastic value honestly. Can't be beat. Pls share if you think it can.

Hub motors are fine Asher, there's nothing wrong with them. They are a more realistic option for most eBike buyers I think.
However, Stromer is the only hub motor I've ever experience that makes a Hub motor that has a truly natural power application. One that you feel truly in control of with your legs. Otherwise, Brose, and Bosch achieve this amazingly well also.
The other pros of a mid-drive; slightly lighter, slightly more efficient, usually quieter, middle distributed weight, and also easier to change flat tires and tires in general.
 
The Brose motor will have a 2 year warranty and servicing possibilities in most bike shops that are qualified to service brose motors. They are definitely more reliable than Bafang motors. No offensive to that Bolton video, but that's not a very thorough or comprehensive explanation on the difference between the motor types.

Specialized and Bulls use Brose, I'm not sure why you think they are unreliable. Here is a decent comp between Brose and Bosch -
,

Re that "$2100 Bosch ebike from Batch" - it using (by comparison) much cheaper components, as well as, the very MAJOR difference, a 20mph class 1 assisting motor.

Also, we do have a 28mph rigid fork model bike, the core-5. At only $1095. Add a 14ah battery for $389, and you have 24.4ah for under $1500. It's a fantastic value honestly. Can't be beat. Pls share if you think it can.

Hub motors are fine Asher, there's nothing wrong with them. They are a more realistic option for most eBike buyers I think.
However, Stromer is the only hub motor I've ever experience that makes a Hub motor that has a truly natural power application. One that you feel truly in control of with your legs. Otherwise, Brose, and Bosch achieve this amazingly well also.
The other pros of a mid-drive; slightly lighter, slightly more efficient, usually quieter, middle distributed weight, and also easier to change flat tires and tires in general.
Thanks for the clarification on the warranty. My oversight on the Batch bike, meant to say it was a 20 mph max (thus me mentioning the class 3 Bosch motor as a separate entity). I have absolutely zero experience with Brose, just seeing concerning posts from the forum plus the existing one year warranty - but if it's two years and existing LBS will service it, then that's great.

There have been a number of posts on serial failures of Brose motors on Specialized models. This guy had four different Brose motor units (same model) fail: https://electricbikereview.com/foru...se-specialized-reliability.27608/#post-238312

Unless something else comes up, my choice is pretty firmly between the Prodigy and the Zen Shakti, especially with a 2 year Brose warranty. For whatever reason, there really isn't much exciting in the torque sensor, light, class 3 commuter segment until you spend $4k or so, and then you're locked into OEM batteries. There's the Priority Current but it sounds like the IGH isn't so hot.

I've heard that the TDCM motors Stromer uses aren't even super expensive, but they are much better than Bafangs. Would be great to see them on more ebikes.

There was a software update to Brose motors issued in 2020 for rampant failures, but it was for eMTBs; it's unclear if it addresses the Class 3 road motors: https://ebike-mtb.com/en/brose-software-update-2020/ German: https://www.bike-magazin.de/emtb/e_...te-motoren-brose-reagiert-mit-software-update
 
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