Rewiring an izip mountain trailz, help required

[Ashley]

disabled oap here, been using the bike for a few years but had total electrics failure, have tested motor, runs perfect so bought new control box and throttle, these I have fitted but not yet attempted to wire up, I think I know what I am doing! but lack of wiring diagram, different colour cables etc, plus fact I don't speak chinese has me worried! can anyone do me a wiring diagram etc? am not bothered about brake isolators, and peddling sensor (blue/brown wires running from crank set) nor brake light wiring, Have ridden and wired up push bikes and motorcycles all my life and live out in the sticks so road traffic/danger not a worry
the controller/throttle I have fitted in this one ebay number ( 232211808685 ) if you look at the ad you will see mistake on motor wires! and lack of labels as to what goes where, thankful for any help, am assuming key switch on throttle isolates low voltage power to control box? just seen bit re supporting local shops too, I would but no one wants the job, just try to sell me a new bike!

 

[pxpaulx]

Someone here might have some knowledge to help, but I think you're far more likely to get assistance over at the endless sphere forums. Good luck!

 

[Ashley]

Have tried to get on that site Paul but it doesn't seem to want me to join, says my email is invalid or something along those lines? maybe I should add here I just want the basic control box wiring, (have seen another izip withoterut the crankwheel wiring and no voltage adjuster on green feed wire from throttle, thanks for help

 

[Ann M.]

@Ashley, can you upload a picture or 2 of the old controller and wiring set up along with pics of the replacement one and the bike itself. We've worked on a number of those bikes and some of the older ones have very odd wiring. Currie Tech does still have some parts for those bikes; however, there are several versions of the wiring, so not just one diagram. You should be able to follow the wires from the old controller and see where they go.

Not sure about that ebay controller; but here's a link from izipelectric.com for service on several versions of the rack mounted battery TrailZ bikes and info about basic troubleshooting for these bikes.

Where are you located, Ashley? Perhaps we can help you find tech help. Remember, you can call Currie Tech /Raleigh for tech support at 800-377-4532.

 

[harryS]

I agree with Ann. Your original post, Ashley, has no information. You can post an ebay link like this. Just click on the link icon and paste in the URL, after you copy it. For example, I bought this controller and it worked as advertised.

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

I have this throttle coming. Wish I hadn't. I forgot I already had one. Oh well, it's not too expensive.
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
I've been lucky. I have purchased a half dozen controllers and the color codes for the motor wire, usually 8 wires, have always matched with the motors.

Throttles and the PAS sensor often come with wire in the wrong positions, even if they have the right plugs. They often don't have the right plugs. But these are easily figured out.

Part of buying something like this, you know, is to stay away from anything that doesn't have english instructions.

If you can post some pictures like Ann asked, or a good link, your questions should be answerable.

 

[Ashley]

Hello Ann,
thanks for reply, I live in uk at nottingham, I bought the bike s/h about 4 yrs ago, ran ok np problems after batteries replaced then it packed up completly and put in shed, finally got round to "playing with it" and bought these, ebay items, ebay item number
232211808685, as I said not bothered about brake's isolaters or stop lamp, nor the pedalling sensor, just want to have the "boost" of electric motor when needed, ie I turn on electrics via throttle key switch, pedal as per ordinary bike till off the "trailer home" then bring in the electic motor to assist getting up a hill to local village (there is only one road which goes under a railway line, and the park is surrounded by a river) I am then on the flat and ok for fishing spots and shopping etc, trips to local pub etc (not getting drunk!)
New control box is fitted, throttle is in place, and wires all mounted but not connected at box,
The motor runs perfectly direct from battery and system is identical to one fitted on a izip 27 model except latter has no pedalling sensor on crank, and no " sealed little black box" in what I assume is a variable resistor in the green signal wire from throttle to box. Am ok wiring batteries in series to give 24 volt and soldering, fitting heat shrink sleeving etc but a bit concerned with the 2 thin wire from control box to battery and heavy wires from batteries on same terminals? afraid no old parts, all dumped as burnt out and am unable to take photos etc (not much use am i? lol) just want basic wiring diagram, any help welcome, thanks

 

[Ashley]

I agree with Ann. Your original post, Ashley, has no information. You can post an ebay link like this. Just click on the link icon and paste in the URL, after you copy it. For example, I bought this controller and it worked as advertised.

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

I have this throttle coming. Wish I hadn't. I forgot I already had one. Oh well, it's not too expensive.
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
I've been lucky. I have purchased a half dozen controllers and the color codes for the motor wire, usually 8 wires, have always matched with the motors.

Throttles and the PAS sensor often come with wire in the wrong positions, even if they have the right plugs. They often don't have the right plugs. But these are easily figured out.

Part of buying something like this, you know, is to stay away from anything that doesn't have english instructions.

If you can post some pictures like Ann asked, or a good link, your questions should be answerable.

 

[Ashley]

Hi HarryS
just replied to Ann, and just seen your reply, thanks, any advice you can give most welcome, (esp basic diagram)

 

[harryS]

Looking up the Izip Mountain Trailz, that appears to be a brushed 2 wire DC motor. OK. I see how you ran it off a battery to verify that the motor works.

By the way, Currie does keep some old files around. I suppose what you had was very close to this.
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)

There's a pedal sensor and a throttle that connect to a "white box" that goes to the Currie controller. Sounds like what you had.

I suppose that you bought a generic scooter controller off ebay. I'm sorry but I doubt that you will be able to interface the Currie throttle and pedal assist to a generic controller. I look at the above schematic and infer that the Currie controller has proprietary inputs to read that white box.

I also think that no one makes brushed motor controllers that have pedal assist. The best you can do is to go with a brushed controller that has a throttle input, and they probably use the kind of throttle I was showing, although it should be possible to make the Currie one work.

Finally, unless you can provide a link to what you bought and more info, you're on your own in the internet world.

If you're in the UK, there's a really smart group of people on http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/ that might know where you can get replacement Currie parts.

 

[Ann M.]

@Ashley, All you have to do is call Currie Tech/Raleigh; they have the parts and tech service guys to talk with. Click on the links I posted earlier, they are for wiring diagrams for several versions of your bike!

Those were pedal assist brushed motor controllers but the pedal assist & sensor tended to be a bit unreliable - particularly the earlier versions with the little black & white 'boxes' wired to the controller. In some cases the solution to get the bike running was to bypass the pedal assist and have a throttle only system.

 

[Ashley]

Hi all, just been rereading forum and replies, thanks to all, not got back to you before as been ill, nothing new there! but feeling better now so thought I'd have another go at the brain teaser also known as the izip mountain trialz, now bought 2 new batteries to go with the set of matched throttle c/w power lights and "ignition key" etc and 24volt 500 watt box and am in process of wiring it up, Have reread the advice given here and what I want to know is what can I do without? ie pedal sensor from crank? brake switches that isolate motor? and charging point? I add the latter as originally (I don't know if was standard? as not bought new) the battery box did literally do that, just held 2 batteries, nothing else, power was sent via a "kettle type plug and socket" to everything else, thus isolating batteries when removed, the izip charger which I still have has a similar plug and to charge batteries this was plugged into battery box power out female socket thus eliminating any problems with 24 volts going to control box if charger developed a fault etc so would prefer such? as regards safety I still would have "ignition switch" to kill power, my view is if it's not fitted it won't go wrong! been riding motorbikes for over 50 years so still know how to react to the unexpected etc (like motor won't shut off etc) any tips etc re my questions most welcome, thanks

 

[Ann M.]

Ashley, you could live without the pedal assist sensor if you want just throttle power. With the motor interrupts as long as you release the throttle and don't have motor power going when you brake, you could live without the motor interrupts but they are a nice safety feature to have and an inexpensive component.

That version of battery pack should have a square shaped on/off switch on it that would power up the bike once that cable is plugged in.

Hope this bike project gets you energized and feeling better soon, too.

 

[Ashley]

Ashley, you could live without the pedal assist sensor if you want just throttle power. With the motor interrupts as long as you release the throttle and don't have motor power going when you brake, you could live without the motor interrupts but they are a nice safety feature to have and an inexpensive component.

That version of battery pack should have a square shaped on/off switch on it that would power up the bike once that cable is plugged in.

Hope this bike project gets you energized and feeling better soon, too.

Thank you, I was pretty sure I was ok with that but thought I'd ask your advice first, going to finish off wiring this afternoon, will start with basics and then add brake circuit, wish me luck! lol

 

[Ashley]

Thanks for help, esp Anne, The Phoenix is back on the road! not sure quite how though, lol but it seems ok except for the following, (which I can live with) When I first wired it up all appeared ok, I then turned key switch on at throttle, the indicator lights all lit and a tweak of the throttle spun the back wheel, time for a test drive, however on turning off the key switch which does stop the electric motor, the indicator lights stay on, I assume this is where that switch mentioned by Anne comes in? as removing either positive or negative battery connector. causes lights to fade to off. On the road everything works ok inc brake isolators and indicator lights. Am a bit dubious about using that switch you mentioned (which I still have) as it doesn't look as if it will stand 24 volts and high amperage?

 

[Ann M.]

@Ashley, your On/Off switch is not working completely correctly. And that could be for a couple of reasons: one of the wire pins is not making complete connection in the off state at the controller end -or- you have a faulty switch. One way to get the power to stop is to remove a battery long enough to allow the bike to be non-powered then you turn it on again when you're ready to ride. If it's the controller and not a connector pin, you're wasting $$ to replace the controller when removing the battery will provide the same solution for this much older bike.