REVIEW: QR-E 250W ELECTRIC BOOSTER BICYCLE MOTOR AND B60i AND B70 BATTERY

How wide is the tape you used?
The tape i use is about 2.5cm width fit nicely for 320W Pro but on 400W i just overlap side by side. Attached picture how i overlap the 3M friction floor tape width by 2x when wrapping on the friction roller of 400W.
 

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Update on my new to me used Pro of unknown age. I've used it on fairly flat gravel trails including Palouse to Cascades rail to trail in Washington but haven't gotten around to trying it on steep hills until this AM. Rode it up and down my neighborhood road which gains 400ft in 1 mile with a couple 20+% segments. Only had 1 light on my battery at start and finish. I was in 1st-3rd gear (22t front, 40t rear, 700c bike) on the steepest areas and put in a good amount of effort. The motor didn't cut out even when going slow uphill and no slipping on the tire - I use 1" wide sanding belt for the friction layer. When I had tried this with my Mute version on same bike a year or more ago I turned back because the Mute didn't provide enough assist for me to make it. I'm not in great shape and have a bad knee that last year an orthopod told me was crying for replacement, so there's that. Overall I'm pretty impressed for what it is.

Unfortunately same day 15 miles into 25 mile ride the Pro broke down and is non-functional. From now on I'll just stick to my Yamaha mid drive gravel bike despite its 40+lb weight - no problems in thousands of miles on that plus TSDZ2 equiped bikes. It was a hilly ride but they all are in my area.
 
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Update on my new to me used Pro of unknown age. I've used it on fairly flat gravel trails including Palouse to Cascades rail to trail in Washington but haven't gotten around to trying it on steep hills until this AM. Rode it up and down my neighborhood road which gains 400ft in 1 mile with a couple 20+% segments. Only had 1 light on my battery at start and finish. I was in 1st-3rd gear (22t front, 40t rear, 700c bike) on the steepest areas and put in a good amount of effort. The motor didn't cut out even when going slow uphill and no slipping on the tire - I use 1" wide sanding belt for the friction layer. When I had tried this with my Mute version on same bike a year or more ago I turned back because the Mute didn't provide enough assist for me to make it. I'm not in great shape and have a bad knee that last year an orthopod told me was crying for replacement, so there's that. Overall I'm pretty impressed for what it is.

Unfortunately same day 15 miles into 25 mile ride the Pro broke down and is non-functional. From now on I'll just stick to my Yamaha mid drive gravel bike despite its 40+lb weight - no problems in thousands of miles on that plus TSDZ2 equiped bikes. It was a hilly ride but they all are in my area.
That's why i go PRO, great hill slayer. :)
 
I got the qiroll QR-E PRO MAX 400W the lates version today and I mounted in my Bike Friday with no problem in 20min.I just did a small test and works ok I think I will add the tape but I can t find 3cm wide .One more thing lets say I fly to another country and I can t take the battery which kind tipe of battery I need
 
I got the qiroll QR-E PRO MAX 400W the lates version today and I mounted in my Bike Friday with no problem in 20min.I just did a small test and works ok I think I will add the tape but I can t find 3cm wide .One more thing lets say I fly to another country and I can t take the battery which kind tipe of battery I need
If the tape not wide enough you can overlap the tape side by side to increase the width like how i did it from previous post photos. About traveling with ebike battery i have no experience about it but different airline allow certain watt hour capacity which you need to check.
 
If the tape not wide enough you can overlap the tape side by side to increase the width like how i did it from previous post photos. About traveling with ebike battery i have no experience about it but different airline allow certain watt hour capacity which you need to check.
Yes but Iam not planing taking ghe battery so I asked which battery I need to look for Voltage Wat etc
 
Hy guys,i buy 18 cells 21700 5,5 ah,mt58e,and i want to make a new battery.But i have one doubt,for the bms,i need a common port for charge and discharge and a mínimum of 5 amps charge and 10 for discharge,and more are better,for sure.I supose i need the common charge and discharge bms for the regen braking,t'has right?And i need the third cable,or i can just ignore it?Thanks for the help!
 
The tape i use is about 2.5cm width fit nicely for 320W Pro but on 400W i just overlap side by side. Attached picture how i overlap the 3M friction floor tape width by 2x when wrapping on the friction roller of 400W.
When you stick the tape, you do it on top of the original or do you remove the original?
Thank you
 
When you stick the tape, you do it on top of the original or do you remove the original?
Thank you
Yes i do tape it on top overlapping each other on the center of the friction roller which is good for extra thickness and durability.
 
New Qiroll owner here from Scotland. I gave it a chance and went for the Mute. I think the Mute had undeserved bad reputation, is small and mighty for its price.

I went for Qiroll as I got a belt driven hub gears gravel bike. So a rear or mid motor were not an option. And for a front hub I needed to replace the fork and make a mess. So a friction motor was by far the easiest option.

The mute has plenty of power, I was afraid it would be too weak having read all comments. But knowing its limitations, and putting enough pressure (as 3dxl has indicated you need more pressure than what Qiroll suggest) works great. Half of my commute is pulling a bike trailer with my daughter in it. So that’s pulling an extra 30kg. And still the Mute has no issues in reaching +30km/h (and I’m still using the stock tape, I hope will be even better with a grip one).

I think the Mute is like having a 3rd gear for those that use cars withs gears. It can not cope at slow speeds, but the faster you go the more it helps. You still need to pedal (a lot) but it gives you a decent boost. My estimation is can give me +2/3km/h boost at 10-15km/h; +5km/h at 20km/h; and +8km/h at 25km/h making a top speed of about 32-35km/h on flats.

My 2 biggest complains are not having the light on the controller, I never know in which mode I’m in. And that sometimes it does not get I am breaking and it looks I am fighting the motor to stop.

To operate the button a simple velcro has turned to be really effective, I got a velcro between the two buttons of the controller. When I want to press I push the controller with my thumb sliding it under the Velcro so it is kept pressed. When I want to stop I slide it back (images attached). Simple and effective.
 

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My 2 biggest complains are not having the light on the controller, I never know in which mode I’m in. And that sometimes it does not get I am breaking and it looks I am fighting the motor to stop.
Good to hear you enjoyed the Mute version, i have to agree Qiroll should put the LED indicator status on the controller so we could see visually see and know which modes we're riding in. Sometimes i accidentally press the regen brake/mode button and didn't realized it slowed down on fast highway road.
 
The tape i use is about 2.5cm width fit nicely for 320W Pro but on 400W i just overlap side by side. Attached picture how i overlap the 3M friction floor tape width by 2x when wrapping on the friction roller of 400W.
I used this method for almost one year, but in my experience it was not durable enough. A much more durable option is to use belt-sander sandpaper and strong double-sided tape. My first layer feels barely used after 200 km. I got this idea from a blog about the Add-E (German version of QiRoll) they used it to fix their original layer which is build to last up to 10.000km. :)


For those asking about the wiring of the EPS PAS sensor: I am still struggling to make it waterproof and vibration-proof… :( This week I am trying epoxy and replacing some plastic parts with larger 3D-printed ones to improve splash protection of the connections.
 
I used this method for almost one year, but in my experience it was not durable enough. A much more durable option is to use belt-sander sandpaper and strong double-sided tape. My first layer feels barely used after 200 km. I got this idea from a blog about the Add-E (German version of QiRoll) they used it to fix their original layer which is build to last up to 10.000km. :)


For those asking about the wiring of the EPS PAS sensor: I am still struggling to make it waterproof and vibration-proof… :( This week I am trying epoxy and replacing some plastic parts with larger 3D-printed ones to improve splash protection of the connections.
Do you have a link from the German forum to see which sandpaper grade to take ?
 
I used 60 grit sanding belts on both my mute and pro versions. Virtually no wear on the sanding belts themselves but they do wear the tire some and you have to make sure they are pressed on the tire firmly enough to prevent slipping otherwise it can damage the tire. Post #218 shows what I used but I've since used a different glue with success.
 
Do you have a link from the German forum to see which sandpaper grade to take ?
unfortunately not but the person tested gridsizes between 60 an 130 and they all worked good. I´m right now using 60 too... Maybe it is better to go with 60 ish when it is wet or dirty and in summer 120 ish to reduce tyre wear.
 
I had chosen 60 grit mostly because it looked same/very similar to what Gboost uses for their friction drive.
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My concern was that a finer grit might be more prone to slippage and consequent focal tire damage. The friction layer is imbeded in a resin that is very durable so they don't have the safety margin like the non-slip tread tape that 3dxl uses where the abrasive granules quickly shed the tape when slipping occurs - at least that's my experience. If someone has experience with other grit belts they should post up their results.
 
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