Re-greasing the Ultra motor...is it time?

Off hand, the gear profile. Someone already mentioned a problem. The pictures of your motor's gears doesn't look good. The black goo looks to be made of iron and grease.
 
I turned the case upside down and the gears fell out and I'm wondering the heck the black stuff is. Wear from the gears?
I sent the photos to Pushkar, via email. I hope he responds.
I presume you've touched the "black stuff", rolled it between your fingers? Is it metallic, granular, magnetic? I do know that on steel gear components, during the "break in" interval, newly machined gears will lose microscopic particles as part of the "last fine filing". I did not notice that much black stuff when I greased my Ultra at 500 miles. When I take a second look at my original pics, there may have been a little.

I would just clean it our, slather it with Corn Head, and ride the s*it out of it. If your gear(s) go bad, you'll know soon enough.
 
Last edited:
Gionnirocket, that could be a possibility. I haven't ridden the bike in the rain, but I've washed it a number of times and a small amount of water could have leaked into the motor from the top hole where the battery cable goes into the housing. I silicone sealed it, but some moisture could have leaked through.

Tom, I think that's what I'll do, but I'm still considering replacing some or all of the gears. Unfortunately, replacing the gears won't be cheap.

I know one thing for sure.....even though my Hydra only has 300 miles on it I plan on opening up the motor and re-greasing it very soon.
 
Greenbikekit has the three gears for my motor for $300 (Canadian) including shipping. I'm trying to decide if I should play it safe and replace all three gears.
 
Greenbikekit has the three gears for my motor for $300 (Canadian) including shipping. I'm trying to decide if I should play it safe and replace all three gears.
I would definitely replace at a minimum the worn gear and it's adjacent... Probably best to do all three and start fresh and well lubricated.
 
The 'black stuff' didn't feel gritty, but when I put a small piece of paper towel, with some of the 'black stuff' on it, the piece of towel 'stuck' to the magnet, so there's definitely metal shaving in the 'black stuff'.
 
The 'black stuff' didn't feel gritty, but when I put a small piece of paper towel, with some of the 'black stuff' on it, the piece of towel 'stuck' to the magnet, so there's definitely metal shaving in the 'black stuff'.
I think you'll be fine just greasing it up and riding. Probably get quieter too.
 
Last edited:
It would be cool to install a Zerk fitting. Then you could just pump it with grease without removing and opening the motor each time. Just like a John Deer tractor. You could use walk assist (without the chain on the ring) while pumping it. You would need to pick a spot for the fitting that is exactly the depth of the threads.
1689719269078.jpeg
1689719364447.jpeg
1689719517567.png
 
Last edited:
It would be cool to install a Zerk fitting. Then you could just pump it with grease without removing and opening the motor each time. Just like a John Deer tractor. You could use walk assist (without the chain on the ring) while pumping it. You would need to pick a spot for the fitting that is exactly the depth of the threads.
View attachment 158458View attachment 158459View attachment 158460
Greasing a motors drive gears is a bit different than a tractors bearings, bushings and other parts.
The proper amount of grease needs to be applied to the appropriate location (teeth) of the gears and properly distributed.
I think a visual inspection, cleaning and using the proper amount can only be done by cracking that bitch open.
 
Tom's probably correct when he says to grease it, then put it back together and ride it, but I decided to play it safe and order the three gears from GreenBikeKit.
Once I get my UC Pro back together I plan on taking apart my Hydra motor to see how much grease it has around its gears.
Everyone, thanks for the information and comments.
Ron
 
Does anyone know if the smallest gear (the one pressed on rotor shaft) is harder steel than the adjacent gear? That way, the adjacent gear would be sacrificial as it is cheaper and easier to replace than the rotor.
 
I would just pack the sfucker; While turning. On a different sort of motor, I pack the cover of the main gear and stepdown then reapply it externally. We couldn't get an M620 off without drilling bolts. They used power tools at too high a torque with red-thread in the factory. Having a Zerk would be cool. Easy. Like lubing a corn tractor. As the guy said, 'There is nothing as smooth as a lubed..'
 
I would just pack the sfucker; While turning. On a different sort of motor, I pack the cover of the main gear and stepdown then reapply it externally. We couldn't get an M620 off without drilling bolts. They used power tools at too high a torque with red-thread in the factory. Having a Zerk would be cool. Easy. Like lubing a corn tractor. As the guy said, 'There is nothing as smooth as a lubed..'
It's just not the same and a totally different application and the reason you'll never see a zerk on a sealed electric motor.
And too much of a good thing... is a thing.
 
If riding as is til it breaks would anything else be hurt besides the gears? If no then you decide if want to chance breaking while using getting the most from it or replacing before it breaks. If it it is ride til it breaks will it give you any warnings it is close to breaking like stuttering , noise etc. ? And last thought , how hard and time consuming is it to put it back together and then take apart later when it does break as opposed to fixing it now?
 
If riding as is til it breaks would anything else be hurt besides the gears? If no then you decide if want to chance breaking while using getting the most from it or replacing before it breaks. If it it is ride til it breaks will it give you any warnings it is close to breaking like stuttering , noise etc. ? And last thought , how hard and time consuming is it to put it back together and then take apart later when it does break as opposed to fixing it now?
Technically it's not "broken" is it? Noisey, yes. Mine was noisy as hell when I first got it. Considering my BBSHD seemed to run nearly silent I was at first very disappointed. Once I did the corn head grease it was markedly quieter.
Let us know what Pushkar says.
 
Pushkar says clean and grease it and put it back together. Since the bike is almost two years old I didn't ask him to send me a set of replacement gears for free, and he didn't offer.
What annoys me is it's obvious that this motor was installed on the bike with very little grease. I plan on taking my Hydra's motor apart to re-grease the gears.

Taking the motor out and apart isn't difficult, but if I can help it I'd rather not have to do it until it's time to re-grease the gears again in a year, or two, or three.
 
Back