Radwagon worked for 5 miles :(

highway320

New Member
So excited for my new Radwagon! Assembly went great yesterday, then a 5 mile ride which was awesome.

Today, I can't ride more than a couple minutes without the hub motor kicking in the regenerator, which acts like brakes are grabbing, then the motor stops working.
Checked all connections.

After a few min, I can get it to work again, but only for another couple min.
Also, when only at Pedal Assist 1, it will continue to provide juice well past 15 mph. I thought cut off was 10mph for level 1.

Seems like the controller is not controlling properly. And after a couple times on the phone with the tech number, after some diagnostic questions, the tech guy said it sounds like something is kicking in the re-generator when it shouldn't. OK.

Then he tells me he's not actually a tech guy, but a sales guy answering the tech phone, so I'll have to wait for them to contact me.

Not a good sign....I guess there is a reason that other e-bikes are sold through dealers...

Any suggestions or ideas are welcome, I will update this thread with any resolution, if & when.
 
They were good about getting back to me the next day, so I hope you end up having a good customer service experience as well. I worked with Cory when I had an issue with my controller, but the initial callback was not instantaneous. I think they'll get you back on the road pretty quickly. I know it's frustrating with a new bike. My bike doesn't have regen, but have you checked the electronic sensor on the brake as well or made sure it doesn't somehow think the brake is activated?

Edit: I wonder if you can unplug the brake sensors to help troubleshoot the problem.
 
Thank you for the reply. I'm not sure if it thinks the brakes are activated, it seems to "kick" back & forth between regenerator and motor, then just cuts out.

Also, I'm not sure what would cause it to give unlimited juice at pedal assist 1, rather than having a top-out speed?

What was the issue with your controller?

And yeah, just really frustrating. Delayed during shipping. Finally get it, and then this, ugh.
 
If you have an issue, call the Seattle Store directly and choose the option for sales. My experience with the guy who answered the tech support line was exasperating. Although he was backward about what he said, I was able to glean enough to figure out the issue on my own. When I called the sales line, they seemed more prepared to be helpful. I feel like the guy I talked to was stoned and he said that he didn't know some of the answers about the bike because he was not at the shop. Having said that, when I did talk to someone on location my problems were located and dealt with although I wish all the staff knew all the information. It seems like I always end up having to talk to more than one person to get all the information I need for any issue.
 
They were good about getting back to me the next day, so I hope you end up having a good customer service experience as well. I worked with Cory when I had an issue with my controller, but the initial callback was not instantaneous. I think they'll get you back on the road pretty quickly. I know it's frustrating with a new bike. My bike doesn't have regen, but have you checked the electronic sensor on the brake as well or made sure it doesn't somehow think the brake is activated?

Edit: I wonder if you can unplug the brake sensors to help troubleshoot the problem.
If you disconnect the break sensors, the motor won't turn off when you break which could harm the motor or even cause physical danger. This is my understanding.
 
If you have an issue, call the Seattle Store directly and choose the option for sales. My experience with the guy who answered the tech support line was exasperating. Although he was backward about what he said, I was able to glean enough to figure out the issue on my own. When I called the sales line, they seemed more prepared to be helpful. I feel like the guy I talked to was stoned and he said that he didn't know some of the answers about the bike because he was not at the shop. Having said that, when I did talk to someone on location my problems were located and dealt with although I wish all the staff knew all the information. It seems like I always end up having to talk to more than one person to get all the information I need for any issue.
This has not been my experience with Radpower. I have always had good support over the phone and the one time I sent an email to tech support re a problem I get a reply within 24 hours. You can't expect the same level of support you would get by buying from a bike shop but I have no problem using the warranty service provided along with getting some help from my LBS if needed. Sure beats paying twice as much for the bike.
 
So excited for my new Radwagon! Assembly went great yesterday, then a 5 mile ride which was awesome.

Today, I can't ride more than a couple minutes without the hub motor kicking in the regenerator, which acts like brakes are grabbing, then the motor stops working.
Checked all connections.

After a few min, I can get it to work again, but only for another couple min.
Also, when only at Pedal Assist 1, it will continue to provide juice well past 15 mph. I thought cut off was 10mph for level 1.

Seems like the controller is not controlling properly. And after a couple times on the phone with the tech number, after some diagnostic questions, the tech guy said it sounds like something is kicking in the re-generator when it shouldn't. OK.

Then he tells me he's not actually a tech guy, but a sales guy answering the tech phone, so I'll have to wait for them to contact me.

Not a good sign....I guess there is a reason that other e-bikes are sold through dealers...

Any suggestions or ideas are welcome, I will update this thread with any resolution, if & when.
Sorry to hear about your problem. The limiter in PAS 1 is strictly power related (around 240 watts). The controller will drive the motor in Pas 1 thru PAS 5 until the max assist speed is reached (my default was set at 20 mph but you can change this thru settings).
 
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If you disconnect the break sensors, the motor won't turn off when you break which could harm the motor or even cause physical danger. This is my understanding.
Sorry to hear about your problem. The limiter in PAS 1 is strictly power related (around 240 watts). The controller will drive the motor in Pas 1 thru PAS 5 until the max assist speed is reached (my default was set at 20 mph but you can change this thru settings).


That is helpful, thank you. The RAD Owners Manual suggests otherwise, by giving a "max" or "top" speed at which the assist power will cut out if reached. According to what you are saying, the Pedal Assist 1 power might remain at around 240 or lower, all the way up to max speed, if I was pedaling at the right speed to allow for that. Great, if I can eliminate that as a symptom. Weird that the manual would say that....
 
You can't expect the same level of support you would get by buying from a bike shop but I have no problem using the warranty service provided along with getting some help from my LBS if needed. Sure beats paying twice as much for the bike.

LOL, I guess your bike probably worked from day 1. Twice as much is a lot more, but $1600 is still not a small amount for me. It just seems a reasonable expectation that the person answering the tech support line might be willing to offer tech support.
But if I am to factor the experience above, then tech support is stoned, and I really wanted to speak with the sales guy that I got today....

I am confident, however, that the stoned people are my people, and will resolve my issue tomorrow, so that I may ride the mighty high (with pedal assist) ;)
 
That is helpful, thank you. The RAD Owners Manual suggests otherwise, by giving a "max" or "top" speed at which the assist power will cut out if reached. According to what you are saying, the Pedal Assist 1 power might remain at around 240 or lower, all the way up to max speed, if I was pedaling at the right speed to allow for that. Great, if I can eliminate that as a symptom. Weird that the manual would say that....

I bought a Rover and a Wagon and have about 800 miles on the two. The controllers work differently on the two. The wagon gives you a specified power output in each level (no matter the speed). The Rover gives power up to a certain speed in each level.
I ride the Wagon, my wife the Rover. On flat areas I can easily cruise 20mph in PAS 1. The Rover needs to be in PAS 4 for it to power the bike at that speed. The Rover has way more up hill torque though. Radpower told me the controllers work differently because of the differences between geared and gearless hub motors.
For street riding I like the way the Wagon works better, even though the description in the manual describes the Rover.
Hope you are back on the street soon.
 
New controller arrived today, and unfortunately did not solve anything. Same issues.
Even less reassuring, they have "never had anyone experience this problem before".

They told me the only other thing it could be is the LCD display, so they are sending a new one.

They also said, it could possibly be a wiring issue, but they doubt it. It does seem like something just disconnects some of the time, so maybe it is a contact in a wire somewhere....

Very disappointed at my $1600 garage ornament so far.
Admittedly, they are trying, but it just sucks as a consumer to realize you are the first line of quality control on finished products.
I am definitely seeing the value in a $3000 electric bike that works from day 1, and comes ready to ride.
 
Today I spent time installing the new LCD display that they sent.
Well it wasn't the fix. Just like the controller replacement, it worked properly for about a mile.

So, with much frustration, I left another message with tech.
I am in disbelief that this still isn't fixed, and that it seems we are no closer, in any way, to resolution; after days spent.
 
Dude, it stinks but you got a defective 'wagon and are losing a couple of weeks of ebike use and some time. Recommend you take a deep breath and save the disbelief for the truly bad stuff. At least it's not a $30K Volkswagen diesel...
 
LOL, I breathe plenty deep.
Threads like this have helped me, when someone else has already had the issue being diagnosed.
I am not having a fit, I am typing and communicating quite calmly.
Sorry if I came off as all agro or something?


Latest update, new wheel/hubmotor assembly. If that doesn't fix it, they will replace the bike.
So it looks like it could get solved, via one of those options...
I will update for those interested in following to hopeful resolution.
 
Today I spent time installing the new LCD display that they sent.
Well it wasn't the fix. Just like the controller replacement, it worked properly for about a mile.

So, with much frustration, I left another message with tech.
I am in disbelief that this still isn't fixed, and that it seems we are no closer, in any way, to resolution; after days spent.
Just have to ask...did you pull the wiring harness and check each one of the plugs? The intermittent function could be a loose, damaged, shorted wiring harness and or plug??
 
@highway320 It's time to go back to basics. I'm a motorcycle tech with over 15 years experience. Troubleshooting is the hardest skill to learn and it's difficult to resist the urge to become a "parts changer" instead of diagnosing the issue. Also, buy a good multi-meter (doesn't have to be Fluke, but a $20-$30 one from Radio Shack will do). Take your time and have a positive outlook. You can find the problem! Cut off all the cable ties and pull out all the wires. You want check to make sure that all your connections are secure and pull each one apart and look at it. II have seen wires in connectors not be where they should be so they wouldn't make good or any contact. f you have changed the controller and LCD, and the issue isn't fixed, it is either in your wiring or in the motor (as long as both the new parts were good). Take your time and make sure that you can eliminate the wiring as suspect. You can check for continuity with your multi-meter on the ohm setting or continuity setting which makes a sound when you complete a circuit. I have seen wire broken within undamaged insulation. If all your wiring is good I would suggest three things. Either bad firmware in the meter, another bad (defective) controller if that was your problem, or a bad hall sensor in the (defective) motor. I think at this point, RPB should step up and send you another bike. It would cost you a lot anyway to send the old one back to them for analysis. Good luck!
 
@highway320, don't get discouraged, this company has produced a lot of bikes that folks are happy with; however, if you don't feel comfortable doing the diagnostics (@walawn's info is good) it's time to find a bike shop that specializes in electric bikes to help. All of this plug n' play is not a solution and wastes your time and the company's parts. This is one of the issues that comes up with internet bought ebikes but a good shop should be able to help you work this out and get you back on your bike.
 
@Ann M. @highway320 What the amin said is true. I always advocated my customers working on their own bikes when I had my motorcycle shop, but advised them that if something was too technical, take their vehicle to the pros. Your LBS may be able to help, but if they don't deal regularly with ebikes, that could be a problem. See if you have a local ebike shop. They should have a technician who can troubleshoot the motor, battery, and controller (the only 3 parts that make your bike an ebike). Keep us posted on what you or the techs find. Good luck!
 
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