Suspension post installed, and with absolutely no adjustments to the way it came, it felt pretty good for 15 Km up on the hill near my house. I'm 210 Lbs (95 Kg)
Install was about 5 minutes, and it reminded me I need to invest in a small Torque wrench for my bike.
My 1/2" biggie I use on my car wheels won't work, so in the meantime, I used my "Armstrong" tool and used common sense (and checked tightness mid ride).
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My old hub drive bike in the back. I am keeping it for the rest of the season so I can get some of my less athletic friends to go for some pathway rides.
It won't lose anymore value for when I sell it, as the integrated BMS is not working correctly. It doesn't affect the ride-ability but it incorrectly reports battery charge remaining.
It still goes 50 Km with minor hill climbs, and it's still a fantastic bike for road and paved pathways.
So far:
- Bell = Knog Oi Luxe (see below)
- Rear lite = Knog "PLUS Rear" (nice and simple - see pic below) It can clip onto seat bag
- Front Light = detachable one from old bike. MEC (like REI but Canadian - in top tube bag)
- Mirror = Mirracycle (excellent product - has survived minor stress tests)
- Bottle Cage = Specialized side pull
- Seat Post = Suntour NCX
- Seat Bag = Topeak Aero (shown below) with tube and tube repair supplies
- Top Tube bag = Rockbros (can still operate phone through the plastic cover. I sometimes put a battery in there to keep the phone charged up)
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In the Top Tube bag is a multi tool, forward light, small roll of electrical tape, tiny collapsible backpack and I add a small wallet sleeve with Bank Card and some cash when I head out.
The Top Tube bag cannot be any bigger as it cramps my stand over space.
Thankfully it's soft...
So now I need to pull the trigger on the correct Topeak seat post MTX rack for this geometry. I am still thinking the "E" type will work.
Then I'll need to decide EXP or DXP if I think the side brackets will still work, or just get the non-pannier versions.