Question about brakes?
- Thread starter Go Ebikes
- Start date
My Haibike didn't come with motor inhibitors for the brakes. I use the same technique riding my Haibike as I do my regular bike and let off the pedal pressure while shifting. If you ride a regular bike then this should be ingrained already. I can see how some people would need/want an inhibitor though. You could really do a number on the gears shifting under full assist
6zfshdb
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Northeast Pennsylvania
AFAIK, there are no official safety standards for ebikes at present. Sooner or later, Uncle Sam will get around to it. When they do, I'm sure brake lever cut out switches will be on the list.
I have the cutouts on my Pedego but so far, haven't used or needed them. The switches are a possible failure point if one malfunctions. They do however provide a level of safety, especially if a throttle should stick in the wide open position.
I have the cutouts on my Pedego but so far, haven't used or needed them. The switches are a possible failure point if one malfunctions. They do however provide a level of safety, especially if a throttle should stick in the wide open position.
mrgold35
Well-Known Member
I might be cost or type of power delivery (mid-drive -vs- hub). Mid-drives usually don't engage the motor unless you are pedaling. A lot of mid-drives are higher in quality compared to the average hub drive ebike. I can see hydraulic brakes being strong enough with a mid-drive at full PAS being able to stop compared to a 750w hub with mechanical brakes. Hub drives with throttles can operate without PAS. I've learned the hard way about being careful pushing my powered on Radrover over obstacles and accidentally hitting the throttle. I either turn off the throttle or walk my ebike with my fingers on the brakes.
rich c
Well-Known Member
Confusion in terminology here. I think the OP is talking about the micro switch on the brake the shuts power off when pulled. Not shift detection.
A lot of the ebikes being imported are based only on cost and don't care much about safety or things such as motor cutoffs, integrated lights, hydraulic brakes, mid drive, etc. as these are all costly additions. If you shop price only your doing yourself a disservice imo as you get in most cases what you pay for. Also before purchasing any of them check the Warranty period, what it covers, Return policy and fees associated with it if any, and shipping costs if free to you what about the other way? Some companies charge the original shipping cost plus return shipping if you return it and watch out for Restocking Fees, a 1800 dollar bike can end up costing you 600 bucks in shipping and fees just to return and your still walking, one co. charges 100 dollars just because you clicked order and changed your mind without the bike even being shipped!..........JMO
LewSchiller
Active Member
Agreed. Just getting to know my new Magnum Cruiser which has a cadence sensor. Pulling up into my driveway I've experienced thrust surge from reflexive pedal movement (on my part). Thankfully I'm on the brake levers and can quickly disengage power.
My Aurora has mid drive and electronic shifting with motor cutoff's and throttle and when I am in a U turn just simply touching the hydraulic brake lever the bike slows nicely and when I straighten out simply touch the pedal and your on your way. I feel very much in control at all times with this system. I had previously a bike with torque sensing as well as cadance and it worked very well also but I like the power and response of the cadence sensor on my bike. It's just a kick to move the pedal and feel the motor move you so effortlessly. I think the torque sensor made the other bike feel more like a regular unpowered bike when pedaling depending on level of assist but I like this system better. First time I rode this bike I was amazed at the acceleration and knew right then!
This! Brake cutoffs are more important on bikes with throttles than ones that are PA only. That’s why a lot of mid-drives don’t have them; most don’t have throttles. Throttles rarely sick on, but it does happen on occasion, whether it’s physically or electronically.
lewes5
Member
I am riding a PA only Specialized. I believe there are no brake cutoffs on this bike.
On one of the sections where I ride, it's a smooth trail through the woods with many curves/turns. If I am alone with no walkers or other bikes, I try to maintain a constant cadence and speed of around 17 mph. When coming to a sharp curve, I maintain my cadence but gently "ride" the brakes for control thus maintaining momentum. (Somewhat similar to slowing slightly while riding in a road bike pace line.) I continue to have assist even though I am on the brakes, slightly.
On one of the sections where I ride, it's a smooth trail through the woods with many curves/turns. If I am alone with no walkers or other bikes, I try to maintain a constant cadence and speed of around 17 mph. When coming to a sharp curve, I maintain my cadence but gently "ride" the brakes for control thus maintaining momentum. (Somewhat similar to slowing slightly while riding in a road bike pace line.) I continue to have assist even though I am on the brakes, slightly.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
If you have your cables adjusted so that just the lightest touch starts appling the brakes, it's possible you have switches, but you aren't getting enough lever movement to engage them. The easiest way to see if you have cut offs is to look for a couple of wires coming from your brake lever assemblies. If they are there, there's little doubt you have them. There's no other application that might use wires.
Nova Haibike
Well-Known Member
My Haibike is like most mid-drives; PAS only, so no real need for motor cut-off switches in the brake levers.
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