Overstock on BH Easymotion Bikes over 50% off on some models

I took the bottom plate off, 4 screws if I recall, then put the O rings between the back side of the plate and the surface of what it mounts to. So the screws go through the plate, then the O rings, then into the threaded mounting holes. I don't think that would photograph well and I don't want to take the plate off again. The clunk was quite loud when pedaling hard and completely resolved with the O rings. Unfortunate that the frame is small for you.
 
I took the bottom plate off, 4 screws if I recall, then put the O rings between the back side of the plate and the surface of what it mounts to. So the screws go through the plate, then the O rings, then into the threaded mounting holes. I don't think that would photograph well and I don't want to take the plate off again. The clunk was quite loud when pedaling hard and completely resolved with the O rings. Unfortunate that the frame is small for you.


Thanks .
Today I took out the bottom plastic cover and it was perfectly silent so it is the plastic cover under the motor that causes creaks as you said. Unfortunately I had to put the cover back on because it is protecting several cables.

I used some electrical tape since I didn't have orings. No major creaks but you can hear very slight creaks.

On a separate note, I tightened the two screws that connect the motor to the frame to 20nm (if my torque wrench is right, these are rated 22nm max). I realized that one of the nuts behind the chainring had a washer but the other didn't. Do you mind taking a look behind the chain ring next time you ride to see if both nuts have washers(these nuts are outside of the motor , go to the other end of the 22nm rated screws)?
 
I noticed some creaking today when putting torque on my pedals. No clunking though. I wondered if it was the plastic pedals or the motor housing. Nothing too objectionable. Need to ride my other Rebel Lites to see if they exhibit a similar issue.
 
Thanks .
Today I took out the bottom plastic cover and it was perfectly silent so it is the plastic cover under the motor that causes creaks as you said. Unfortunately I had to put the cover back on because it is protecting several cables.

I used some electrical tape since I didn't have orings. No major creaks but you can hear very slight creaks.

On a separate note, I tightened the two screws that connect the motor to the frame to 20nm (if my torque wrench is right, these are rated 22nm max). I realized that one of the nuts behind the chainring had a washer but the other didn't. Do you mind taking a look behind the chain ring next time you ride to see if both nuts have washers(these nuts are outside of the motor , go to the other end of the 22nm rated screws)?

I won't be able to check for a few days, bike is packed away for trip back home. Was able to do a few nice rides,glad I brought it with me.
 
I noticed some creaking today when putting torque on my pedals. No clunking though. I wondered if it was the plastic pedals or the motor housing. Nothing too objectionable. Need to ride my other Rebel Lites to see if they exhibit a similar issue.
My Haibike HardNine w/Yamaha had some crank-area creaks and clunks early on.

I dropped the motor and tightened what I could to spec (nothing was noticeably "loose," though), put it back together and voila, no creaks or clunks in the 200+ miles since.

Probably voided my warranty doing so, but Haibike's dealer and consumer support has been notoriously weak so...

And these BH bikes have no warranty, so...
 
BH bargain ebike update: all four of the Rebel Lites I've set up (three 27.5s and a 29er) have had one thing in common: their front wheels were pretty badly out of true. The plus side is that it's helping me hone my truing skills 😆

All the rear wheels are fine, the gears indexed perfectly and needed no adjustments whatsoever, the brakes are all good and bedded easily...

I swear these rims feel like they're made of plastic. It's no wonder Easy Motion didn't list any specs on them on their web pages; they're only 18mm wide and about as cheap as I've ever seen on an eMTB.

Otherwise the spec is pretty decent, and the Yamaha motors and batteries are all performing perfectly. One of my 27.5s does have a bit of a creak in the right crank; I took it all apart, greased it up and still it creaks. Since there's no warranty, I have no qualms about dropping the motor and checking torques on everything inside, too.

It's kinda fun honing new skills! Ride on, right on...
🚵
 
Why would re tightening the screws to factory specs void the warranty?
There is a thread on Yamaha creaking and the solution seems to be lightly greasing and retightening the 3 bolts go into the frame. I thightened 2 to factory specs and the loud creaks went away.

The Rebel lite my friend got is a perfectly nice bike, very nice frame , good derailleur, mid good brakes. The only thing I would change is the coil fork to a nice air fork. For the price paid it can be done easily once the coil fork gives up.
 
Dropping the motor can void a manufacturer's warranty

You don't need to completely drop it, just one by one you can untighten, grease and tighten it up to spec.

Than being said, as long as the frame does not need some extra care to work on (like some carbon frames), dropping or re tightening the bolts with a torque wrench up to specs, I see no reason why that would void the warranty(I also don't think that they can detect whether you dropped the motor or not).


If you over tighten them, break a cable or something you did causes damage that would void the warranty. That's why before doing something I always check the manual and forums to see the right way of doing it.
 
BH bargain ebike update: all four of the Rebel Lites I've set up (three 27.5s and a 29er) have had one thing in common: their front wheels were pretty badly out of true. The plus side is that it's helping me hone my truing skills 😆

All the rear wheels are fine, the gears indexed perfectly and needed no adjustments whatsoever, the brakes are all good and bedded easily...

I swear these rims feel like they're made of plastic. It's no wonder Easy Motion didn't list any specs on them on their web pages; they're only 18mm wide and about as cheap as I've ever seen on an eMTB.

Otherwise the spec is pretty decent, and the Yamaha motors and batteries are all performing perfectly. One of my 27.5s does have a bit of a creak in the right crank; I took it all apart, greased it up and still it creaks. Since there's no warranty, I have no qualms about dropping the motor and checking torques on everything inside, too.

It's kinda fun honing new skills! Ride on, right on...
🚵
Wow this is the first I have heard of BH rims being cheap and thin. I have one of their lower end bikes for the wife and it seems pretty solid through and through. Torqued many fittings and spokes seem true with not too much play or bend during a routine check. Sounds like they started doing additional cost cutting measures to their later model bikes. My BH E-bikes are 2015/2016s.
 
BH bargain ebike update: all four of the Rebel Lites I've set up (three 27.5s and a 29er) have had one thing in common: their front wheels were pretty badly out of true. The plus side is that it's helping me hone my truing skills 😆

All the rear wheels are fine, the gears indexed perfectly and needed no adjustments whatsoever, the brakes are all good and bedded easily...

I swear these rims feel like they're made of plastic. It's no wonder Easy Motion didn't list any specs on them on their web pages; they're only 18mm wide and about as cheap as I've ever seen on an eMTB.

Otherwise the spec is pretty decent, and the Yamaha motors and batteries are all performing perfectly. One of my 27.5s does have a bit of a creak in the right crank; I took it all apart, greased it up and still it creaks. Since there's no warranty, I have no qualms about dropping the motor and checking torques on everything inside, too.

It's kinda fun honing new skills! Ride on, right on...
🚵

My Rebel Lite 27.5 also has a front wheel that is badly out of true. What tools do I need to fix this? Do I need a wheel truing stand like this park one?

 
My Rebel Lite 27.5 also has a front wheel that is badly out of true. What tools do I need to fix this? Do I need a wheel truing stand like this park one?

Hey Now! This is my 400th EBR Forum post! 🥂

That should work, I've never seen a stand like that but Park makes the best tools IME.

I went all-in and got the "professional" one, plus I used BikeRadar/ParkTool's YT video to get me started:


 
Wow this is the first I have heard of BH rims being cheap and thin. I have one of their lower end bikes for the wife and it seems pretty solid through and through. Torqued many fittings and spokes seem true with not too much play or bend during a routine check. Sounds like they started doing additional cost cutting measures to their later model bikes. My BH E-bikes are 2015/2016s.
I've noticed a lot of sneaking in cheap hubs, rims, pivots and other inconspicuous hardware among a number of brands.

I'm always wary when I see Shimano Deore and other mid-to-high level components specced on ebikes listed for under $2k new.

Then again, companies like Quiet Kat and Pedego use low-end components yet charge premium dollars!
 
Last edited:
I think this thread illustrates how hard it is for small eBike businesses to exist in America.

The demand for eBikes here in the US just isn't there. Few people even know what an eBike is.

Those that do, but it based on price above all else. This thread is now one of the longest on this forum, and contains 16 pages of posts of people buying new bikes.

It's hard enough for LBS to compete with places like Lennys, but throw the oddball deal like this in the mix? Forget it. LBS cannot survive. I'm looking at you Motostrano.
 
I think this thread illustrates how hard it is for small eBike businesses to exist in America.

The demand for eBikes here in the US just isn't there. Few people even know what an eBike is.

Those that do, but it based on price above all else. This thread is now one of the longest on this forum, and contains 16 pages of posts of people buying new bikes.

It's hard enough for LBS to compete with places like Lennys, but throw the oddball deal like this in the mix? Forget it. LBS cannot survive. I'm looking at you Motostrano.
First off, I don't think Motostrano Joe reads these forums anymore - he rarely did when his stores were open...

I agree with your statement that LBSs can't compete with online sales - it's not just CL, SDFR, and other legit storefronts selling way below manufacturers' MAP (Minimum Advertised Pricing), but also the drop-shippers - whose "storefronts" are storage facilities or home garages.

I disagree, however, that most USA folks haven't heard of ebikes. They may be clueless or misinformed, but the ebike revolution is being televised, blogged and posted about... it's kinda hard to miss!

The demand for ebikes here is skyrocketing as I type... we're just in the Wild West/Pioneer phase right now. I say give it another few years and 20+% of new bike sales will be electric in some form or other. 5+ years it'll be more than a third, 10 years it'll be more than half.

Soon technology will make it impossible to see the difference between assisted and unassisted bicycles. Hell, most folks can't tell now until I point my external batteries and oversized bottom brackets out to them!

Back to LBSs: every local shop I know - and there are several I know quite well in my region - makes most of its income doing maintenance and repairs. And most if not all of them are finally embracing bike-part repairs on ebikes, whether they were purchased there or not.

It's how they'll survive.
 
Last edited:
the Jeep quietkat ebike is 6.000$ for low tier conponents. For 2k one can get the same exact ebike from Radpower...
I agree that QuietKats are hugely overpriced - they're marketing to hunters and other "outdoorsmen," not cyclists, so their target audience is generally only concerned with the motor's power ("can I quietly throttle-pull a trailer with a carcass and all my other crap on it?"). Slap the Jeep moniker on it and you have a recipe for wide-margin sales...

But Jeep/QK and Rad bikes are not at all the same - the Jeep will be using the Bafang Ultra mid-drive; does Rad even offer a consumer mid-drive option yet? If/when they do, bank on them charging at least $2500 (unless the cut even more corners on hubs and other hidden hardware than they already do).
 
First off, I don't think Motostrano Joe reads these forums anymore - he rarely did when his stores were open... I agree with your statement that LBSs can't compete with online sales - it's not just CL, SDFR, and other legit storefronts selling way below manufacturers' MAP (Minimum Advertised Pricing), but also the drop-shippers - whose "storefronts" are storage facilities or home garages.

I disagree, however, that most USA folks haven't heard of ebikes. They may be clueless or misinformed, but the ebike revolution is being televised, blogged and posted about... it's kinda hard to miss! The demand for ebikes here is skyrocketing as I type... we're just in the Wild West/Pioneer phase right now. I say give it another few years and 20+% of new bike sales will be electric in some form or other. 5+ years it'll be more than a third, 10 years it'll be more than half. Soon technology will make it impossible to see the difference between assisted and unassisted bicycles. Hell, most folks can't tell now until I point my external batteries and oversized bottom brackets out to them!

Back to LBSs: every local shop I know - and there are several I know quite well in my region - makes most of its income doing maintenance and repairs. And most if not all of them are finally embracing bike-part repairs on ebikes, whether they were purchased there or not. It's how they'll survive.

Good analysis. I agree with you on the service model supporting the eBike business going forward... much like the car dealer business model today. ;)
 
Reporting that my BH hardtail from BBB also came with the PWX display and the red yamaha logo...believe thag makes it a pw-se.

The bike seems to have arrived mostly assembled, all i did was put on the pedals and handlebars, attach the front brake calipur, then tire air. Seems to be shifting fine, motor seems to work fine.

I am going to take it to the LBS to have them true the front wheel. Is there anything else I should have them look at? This is the first time I put together a bike myself, and I am not sure if there is anything else I need to inspect / assemble.
 
Back