Orbea Gain E-Road Bike

[Jaxx]

@Jaxx, it's only the M series that has Mavic wheels as default. The D series seems to have these or some version of them if there are different ones: https://blackjackwheels.com/product/wheels/ready-gr-2/

Well, I'm still assuming the Blackjack Ready GR and Schwalbe G-ONE Allround combo is delivered without a tube. Guess I'll just have to deflate and have a look at some point. [/QUOTE

Can't you tell from the valve that's fitted?

 

[Zeek48]

Thought I would check and report on my first 1000 kms on my m20i. After testing the battery life on the first couple of rides to figure out the distances it would allow, I have settled into the routine I bought the bike for, that's to use as an assist only when needed. So far the bike has not disappointed me. On flat rides with minimal elevation one can easily get the advertised 100 kms if used in Assist 1.Using Assist 2/3 will reduce the battery life accordingly. Other than testing Assist 3 for a very short couple of kms, I have never used it. Same for Assist 2 other than one 5 km climb on my first ride. It rapidly depleted the battery. Most of my rides have been in the 60-70 km range with elevations from 300 to 600 metres. I have been trying restrict my use of the assist and find that I am using on between 20% to 30% of the ride. Only when I was testing did I use more than 50% of the battery life.

I find turning the assist on and off as needed to be relatively easy as all I do is push once on the button to turn on and a longer push to turn off. I turn it off on all longer minus grades and on all the flats as long as I can hang with the group. If you want more assist, two short taps will give it to you. This is really no harder than reaching for or returning your water bottle to the cage. You really don't need to see what assist you are in as you will noticeably feel the difference.

I also find riding the bike with no assist to be relatively straight forward and not much more noticeable than riding my Roubaix. Yesterday I did the longest ride since getting the bike, a bit more than 100 km. I was a little concerned as not only were we going a bit longer than normal but with about 500 metres of elevation and a very windy day with gusts of up to 25 km. My fears were not to be. On the way out I did the first 42 kms with no assist into the wind and crosswind. Only as we started to climb straight into the wind did I go to Assist 1. In all I only used the assist for about 25 kms and the green light came on a few kms from the finish as I moved to Assist 2 to pull my weary mates in the last 3 kms. This has given me the confidence that I can do some 100 km+ rides without the long awaited for auxiliary battery.

Overall, I'm very pleased with my bike as it's been a game changer for a 71 year to be able to keep up with my much younger ride mates. It's a comfortable bike to ride and got lucky with the fit my Lbs was able to do.

 

[Jaxx]

Zeek, you mirror my experience of riding the Gain. I can tell you a 100 mile ride is easily achievable with battery to spare, the way you use it's assist mode. The one significant difference I have noticed though? For six weeks the dealer loaned me a D model, I now have mine an M19, however I ordered with the Cosmic wheels. These wheels roll very well are noticeably more responsive and comfortable. I have Continental 4000s 25mms tyres fitted to them. Riding with no assist is almost imperceptible from any of my sub 7kilo bikes with the caveat of draggy hills. BTW, I've still to use assist mode 3.

 

[MikeDee]

I rode up a mountain yesterday. 12 mile climb, 3800', average 5% grade but higher in places and 15% near the top. I was almost all in the L1 setting, L3 at the top and L0 for the first couple of miles near the bottom where the grade is slight, and for the 12 mile descent. I had 42% battery life remaining at the end of the ride. I wonder if I would have had enough battery to do the climb in L2? On the last 15% grade, I was a little disappointed that I didn't have more speed in L3. I guess that's to be expected as I was only doing 5 mph and the motor doesn't generate that much power at low rpm. I probably only averaged about 1 mph faster on the ride than I would have done on my road bike. It was easier though. The bike handled well on the downhill. I had a squeal from the front brake once. I think the brake pads got too hot, as the descent is twisty and required a lot of braking. Maybe I was dragging the brakes some.

 

[Jaxx]

I rode up a mountain yesterday. 12 mile climb, 3800', average 5% grade but higher in places and 15% near the top. I was almost all in the L1 setting, L3 at the top and L0 for the first couple of miles near the bottom where the grade is slight, and for the 12 mile descent. I had 42% battery life remaining at the end of the ride. I wonder if I would have had enough battery to do the climb in L2? On the last 15% grade, I was a little disappointed that I didn't have more speed in L3. I guess that's to be expected as I was only doing 5 mph and the motor doesn't generate that much power at low rpm. I probably only averaged about 1 mph faster on the ride than I would have done on my road bike. It was easier though. The bike handled well on the downhill. I had a squeal from the front brake once. I think the brake pads got too hot, as the descent is twisty and required a lot of braking. Maybe I was dragging the brakes some.

That sounds OK for battery usage Mike. A serious climb. Makes me confident to take mine to the French Alps this year.

 

[Ed B]

I was only doing 5 mph and the motor doesn't generate that much power at low rpm.

Yeah I'm STILL trying to figure out how best to attack shorter hills. I actually wasn't getting consistent full power out of the motor at L3 with high rpms (and speed 13-15) so was trying out of the saddle with a big gear... I definitely feel the assistance but still think I'm going slower than I should be for the total watts being generated. (Most bike speed calculators suggest 500w should result in 18+mph on a 4% grade... I should be putting out at least that much with the motor but am going 15mph or less!)

One thing to note is that a Stages Ultegra left crank Powermeter WONT FIT on the Orbea frame (not enough clearance)! That kinda blew my power meter plans since I use SpeedPlay pedals. So I'm trying to remedy that situation. It would be interesting to know if the Bianchi has 7mm+ clearance between the middle of the left crank and the frame. It appears less than 6 on the Gain M20i... Stages says you need 10mm but I think 7 will suffice.

Please continue to share your hill techniques and experiences everyone... its very helpful!

 

[Zeek48]

Ed, the only negative (and its not a big one) I have found with my bike is a garmin cadence sensor doesn't fit. I knew then there was no sense trying my Stages.

 

[Jaxx]

E

Yeah I'm STILL trying to figure out how best to attack shorter hills. I actually wasn't getting consistent full power out of the motor at L3 with high rpms (and speed 13-15) so was trying out of the saddle with a big gear... I definitely feel the assistance but still think I'm going slower than I should be for the total watts being generated. (Most bike speed calculators suggest 500w should result in 18+mph on a 4% grade... I should be putting out at least that much with the motor but am going 15mph or less!)

One thing to note is that a Stages Ultegra left crank Powermeter WONT FIT on the Orbea frame (not enough clearance)! That kinda blew my power meter plans since I use SpeedPlay pedals. So I'm trying to remedy that situation. It would be interesting to know if the Bianchi has 7mm+ clearance between the middle of the left crank and the frame. It appears less than 6 on the Gain M20i... Stages says you need 10mm but I think 7 will suffice.

Please continue to share your hill techniques and experiences everyone... its very helpful!

Ed, is it possible to check out you actually have a North American version and not a EU model? Those are the kind of figures I get on my UK Gain, restricted to 15.6mph.

 

[MikeDee]

Yeah I'm STILL trying to figure out how best to attack shorter hills. I actually wasn't getting consistent full power out of the motor at L3 with high rpms (and speed 13-15) so was trying out of the saddle with a big gear... I definitely feel the assistance but still think I'm going slower than I should be for the total watts being generated. (Most bike speed calculators suggest 500w should result in 18+mph on a 4% grade... I should be putting out at least that much with the motor but am going 15mph or less!)

One thing to note is that a Stages Ultegra left crank Powermeter WONT FIT on the Orbea frame (not enough clearance)! That kinda blew my power meter plans since I use SpeedPlay pedals. So I'm trying to remedy that situation. It would be interesting to know if the Bianchi has 7mm+ clearance between the middle of the left crank and the frame. It appears less than 6 on the Gain M20i... Stages says you need 10mm but I think 7 will suffice.

Please continue to share your hill techniques and experiences everyone... its very helpful!

I think it's better to get up to speed before the hill. That way, you're not bogging down the motor at low rpm. Seemed better for me when I attacked a 15% grade yesterday.

Chainstay clearance is tight. I had to readjust my cleats because I was hitting my heels on the the chainstays. I can't even fit a Garmin cadence module on the inside of the crank.

 

[Ed B]

E


Ed, is it possible to check out you actually have a North American version and not a EU model? Those are the kind of figures I get on my UK Gain, restricted to 15.6mph.

Yes its a NA version... it will power to 20mph (sometimes just over) but really the power starts fading out around 19.7mph.

 

[Jaxx]

I think it's better to get up to speed before the hill. That way, you're not bogging down the motor at low rpm. Seemed better for me when I attacked a 15% grade yesterday.

Chainstay clearance is tight. I had to readjust my cleats because I was hitting my heels on the the chainstays. I can't even fit a Garmin cadence module on the inside of the crank.

How about a magnetic battery that sits inside the pedal axel. Only 2mm in depth. I'm stuck in one of my bikes though, it has titanium axels.

 

[Jaxx]

Yes its a NA version... it will power to 20mph (sometimes just over) but really the power starts fading out around 19.7mph.

Ah, I do ride up hills now on a couple of gears higher because of the assist. I'm coming to the conclusion, the motor prefers pressure as opposed to "spinning" up short drags. Can't comment on long mountain type gradients, there is nothing like that terrain around here for many miles.

 

[MikeDee]

How about a magnetic battery that sits inside the pedal axel. Only 2mm in depth. I'm stuck in one of my bikes though, it has titanium axels.

That's what I do but Garmin no longer makes that type of sensor (GSC 10). I had to take one off my other bike.

 

[Ed B]

Here's a question for Gain owners... whats the lightest tool set option for wheel removal? I'm thinking of cutting down an 8mm hex key because I cant find a small multi-tool with an 8mm size and most 8mm single keys sold are large and heavy! Also with the tubeless tires, can you get the tire off without a tire lever?

 

[MikeDee]

Here's a question for Gain owners... whats the lightest tool set option for wheel removal? I'm thinking of cutting down an 8mm hex key because I cant find a small multi-tool with an 8mm size and most 8mm single keys sold are large and heavy! Also with the tubeless tires, can you get the tire off without a tire lever?

My multitool (a Topeak model) had the proper size Allen wrenches for the front and rear wheels. Tires (Mavic UST) can be removed by hand, but I'd carry tire levers just in case.

 

[Jaxx]

Here's a question for Gain owners... whats the lightest tool set option for wheel removal? I'm thinking of cutting down an 8mm hex key because I cant find a small multi-tool with an 8mm size and most 8mm single keys sold are large and heavy! Also with the tubeless tires, can you get the tire off without a tire lever?

First, I use a slightly longer arm 8mm Allen Key for leverage, goes nicely in my tool bottle. If you have Mavic wheels, and their TLR tyres? They have been manufactured to tolerances that allow for easy removing and fitting. Mavic have called for World Wide institutes to take up these specifications they have produced to be used as industry standards. Hopefully this will happen. I also believe Continental are getting in on the act with Mavic?

 

[Ed B]

My multitool (a Topeak model) had the proper size Allen wrenches for the front and rear wheels.

First, I use a slightly longer arm 8mm Allen Key for leverage, goes nicely in my tool bottle

Thanks for the Feedback!

 

[Zeek48]

I think I have mentioned in an earlier post that I also own a Giant Road E that I purchased last summer because it was the only road ebike available in Canada at the time. While I was fairly happy with the Giant for the half season I rode it, I had not ridden it since the snow came last fall. That changed today as I had to make a quick trip home from Arizona and dusted off the Giant to do a short 50km ride. It must be a function of my age but I had remembered the bike to be more powerful and easier to ride than it seemed to be today after spending the past 6 weeks on my Gain but the difference is lite years. Even though the Gain is half the power l feel I can ride it faster and it has more maneuverability. The Giant is also twice the weight of the Gain. I have been totaly spoiled by my Gain expirience and because Orbea has decided not to offer the Gain to the Canadian market until 2020 I'm going to have to consider my options for when I return to Canada for the 2019 ride season. I have investigated bringing my existing bike back to Canada but that presents some logistical issues as we fly and the Gain can not fly not to speak of paying an additional 18% + CDN duty/taxes on the retail price of the bike bought in US $. Most likely option is the Bianchi Aria. Almost identical bike except it does not have endurance geometry. Anyway I just can't express how much I enjoy my Gain.

 

[youngoldbloke]

I'm trying to carry only the tools I might actually use on the bike, so instead of a multi tool, 3,4,5 and 8mm Hex keys. Pedals require 6mm but I may risk leaving this out. I also have a very lightweight pressed 10mm spanner - useful to tweak the alignment of the rear wheel axle if necessary before replacing nuts. Tyre levers and tubes for the tyres - GP4000ii's on my Gain. Otherwise much as any other bike.

 

[Jaxx]

I think I have mentioned in an earlier post that I also own a Giant Road E that I purchased last summer because it was the only road ebike available in Canada at the time. While I was fairly happy with the Giant for the half season I rode it, I had not ridden it since the snow came last fall. That changed today as I had to make a quick trip home from Arizona and dusted off the Giant to do a short 50km ride. It must be a function of my age but I had remembered the bike to be more powerful and easier to ride than it seemed to be today after spending the past 6 weeks on my Gain but the difference is lite years. Even though the Gain is half the power l feel I can ride it faster and it has more maneuverability. The Giant is also twice the weight of the Gain. I have been totaly spoiled by my Gain expirience and because Orbea has decided not to offer the Gain to the Canadian market until 2020 I'm going to have to consider my options for when I return to Canada for the 2019 ride season. I have investigated bringing my existing bike back to Canada but that presents some logistical issues as we fly and the Gain can not fly not to speak of paying an additional 18% + CDN duty/taxes on the retail price of the bike bought in US $. Most likely option is the Bianchi Aria. Almost identical bike except it does not have endurance geometry. Anyway I just can't express how much I enjoy my Gain.

Hope you sort things out? Very nice problem to have though.