Ok, I get it now...

[AHicks]

Thank you, @Marci jo ! I've tried a mirror and simply cannot get used to it, and get annoyed by it. I suppose I should continue trying, or perhaps find one that doesn't shake so much.

You'd have my vote to keep trying. Find a mirror you can live with, get used to it, and riding without constantly referencing it to see what's behind you becomes pretty difficult.

I use something like this, and leave them just tight enough to keep them in place. This way if a branch swats it going down a trail I just have to re adjust. If they are constantly getting knocked out of adjustment too easily, snug the mounting screw down just a bit more to hold better. Mounting bracket goes "up" for me, but suit yourself. Beauty is they're cheap! If you do break or scratch one badly you just replace it. These run without vibration and are plenty clear enough to provide good visibility. Set to look just under my elbow (I ride upright).

https://www.amazon.com/LWPITTY-Handlebars-Rearview-Aluminum-Mountain/dp/B0969KHRNZ/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B0969KHRNZ&psc=1

 

[Avg_Joe]

You'd have my vote to keep trying. Find a mirror you can live with, get used to it, and riding without constantly referencing it to see what's behind you becomes pretty difficult.

I use something like this, and leave them just tight enough to keep them in place. This way if a branch swats it going down a trail I just have to re adjust. If they are constantly getting knocked out of adjustment too easily, snug the mounting screw down just a bit more to hold better. Mounting bracket goes "up" for me, but suit yourself. Beauty is they're cheap! If you do break or scratch one badly you just replace it. These run without vibration and are plenty clear enough to provide good visibility. Set to look just under my elbow (I ride upright).

https://www.amazon.com/LWPITTY-Handlebars-Rearview-Aluminum-Mountain/dp/B0969KHRNZ/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B0969KHRNZ&psc=1

The only hiccup with those, @AHicks, is the grips I am using (and love) do not have bar-end cutouts, and I'd hate to cut them. Kind of been thinking that since I ride in a modestly sporty position, having a mirror low and more out front might work, as that is where my eyes tend to focus. I really should try some more mirrors and make myself use them...

 

[AHicks]

The only hiccup with those, @AHicks, is the grips I am using (and love) do not have bar-end cutouts, and I'd hate to cut them. Kind of been thinking that since I ride in a modestly sporty position, having a mirror low and more out front might work, as that is where my eyes tend to focus. I really should try some more mirrors and make myself use them...

I've had grips like that. It's easy to just cut the left side, while mounted, with a #11 Xacto or even a sharp knife to allow the mirror to be inserted.

 

[Alpha Ice]

Well... Does your Apple Watch know you're riding e-bike?
Onimaru, what does your e-bike report for kcalories?

I'll chime in here. I just joined yesterday and just played with my new Vado 4.0, but I can give some context here if it helps. I have the eBike app with Garmin and that can pull in the assist levels, cadence, watts, ascent/descent and such. I just did a swift 10.3 mile ride in some heavy 15 mph wind in about 35 minutes, and I burned approximately 350 calories as noted from my Garmin Fenix watch and Ant HR monitor. I can confirm that despite being in eco and some sport, I'm still very much getting a great workout from my ebike which is not what I had expected...but what I had hoped for. Since there is no throttle, it is all up to cadence (obviously things most of you have probably learned well before I have ). I did just end up getting a donation to Jan for their eBike app on Garmin, so I'll have to go for another ride (shucks) and confirm if having the HR stuff being logged vs instantaneous results in any changes.
So far this thing, and the app, the tuning and connectability is sweet! Now if I can just remember to start the ride in the MC App. I did realize I needed it to auto start, and I fixed that.

 

[Avg_Joe]

I'll reiterate that I have my Vado completely dialed in regarding fit, position, comfort (!). I ride and ride and experience 0 pain or issues while riding, or afterwards. And now that I have it tuned perfectly for me with quite some miles on it, I am fussing with assist - I held off and just made minor adjustments.

This forum has been invaluable in gaining a deeper understanding of the tuning parameters, and for that I am very grateful! I have started riding with Eco set to 15/100, and am finding my battery usage slashed; avg cadence level increasing daily; and I only use Turbo mode for one very steep, short, snaking, dirt hill on my route that kills me. (I don't use Sport at all.) I tried 10/100 but am just not there yet from a fitness perspective, but I hope a week or 2 more of riding 15/100 will enable me to drop those values. My goal is to get to 5/>100 within the next few weeks.

After this, I will experiment with SmartControl on my route for 2 weeks or so, and compare notes and data.

I ack many people get to where I am much faster, but I prefer to burn into my brain through repetition how the bike does which each adjustment. Doing 2 or 5 changes at once == no idea which change impacted x or y. Doing 1 change, really getting a feel for it and analyzing the impact on my riding has worked well for me.

Lastly, I cannot overemphasize how happy I am with:

• the Schwalbe Hurricane tires. They are perfect for my environment, roll well and are quiet, and the side lugs are a huge assist in some of the dirt and glop. I was pleasantly surprised with their handling and grip on wet roads, but I still practiced caution.
• the RaceFace Chester pedals, with the studs. My shoes stick to them.
• and speaking of shoes, I have a pair of casual Oboz shoes which I never really cared for, but they have a very stiff sole. They've made for great bike shoes! and are comfy to walk around in, since that's what they're made for.
• SQLabs 702 grips and 610 Ergolux Active saddle. Wow.

It's prime riding season for me, and aside from fiddling with assist and regular maintenance, all I plan to do is ride!

 

[Zekeer]

@mattie_b this is good stuff, please keep us updated on how this works out for you! (or if you have a thread somewhere, I'll follow along)

I had been looking at the Jones H bars and they seem like a great solution. I'm thinking that trying $30-$40 stem riser might be a good 1st step before investing in new bars. Kind of a difficult sell to my CFO that I just paid eleventybillion dollars for a bike, and now need to spend more.

If you want Jones bars holler at me . I have both the models and they are brand new . However to be right upfront . They won't work . Unless you lengthen your brake cables . As for a Stem riser . You have to change your handlebar riser . If I were you I would get one of these . https://www.amazon.com/Ritchey-1605...ext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A36CSOLF9Y1DF1&th=1&psc=1 Also you could get a Delta steering tube Riser . https://designbydelta.com/products/alloy-stem-raiser?variant=29605540003953


Also stick with 90 mm length . You already have riser handle bars . I have a 2020 model so I had to deal with my headlight attached to the riser . You don't . If you just get a steer tube extension and stay with your OEM handlebar riser . If it actually works which I doubt . It will look DIY makeshift STUPID . Because of Specialized OEM Riser . You'll see .

The 2.5 inch jones might work with no other mods . But it's tricky to install . But can be done. The cockpit of the 2020 vs 2022 is pretty much the same design . They just put riser bars on your bike .

Also keep in mind changing your sitting position will likely not work out for that seat they send with Vado's . I can attach a picture of what I ended up with . However like I stated . I had to mount my light to the stem . Yours is out of the way

 

[Avg_Joe]

If you want Jones bars holler at me . I have both the models and they are brand new . However to be right upfront . They won't work . Unless you lengthen your brake cables . As for a Stem riser . You have to change your handlebar riser . If I were you I would get one of these . https://www.amazon.com/Ritchey-1605...ext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A36CSOLF9Y1DF1&th=1&psc=1 Also you could get a Delta steering tube Riser . https://designbydelta.com/products/alloy-stem-raiser?variant=29605540003953


Also stick with 90 mm length . You already have riser handle bars . I have a 2020 model so I had to deal with my headlight attached to the riser . You don't . If you just get a steer tube extension and stay with your OEM handlebar riser . If it actually works which I doubt . It will look DIY makeshift STUPID . Because of Specialized OEM Riser . You'll see .

The 2.5 inch jones might work with no other mods . But it's tricky to install . But can be done. The cockpit of the 2020 vs 2022 is pretty much the same design . They just put riser bars on your bike .

Also keep in mind changing your sitting position will likely not work out for that seat they send with Vado's . I can attach a picture of what I ended up with . However like I stated . I had to mount my light to the stem . Yours is out of the way

I appreciate this info, @Zekeer but I am perfectly comfortable with the Spank Spoon riser bar I installed. I got the lift I wanted, and the slight backsweep == perfect position.

 

[Avg_Joe]

Lately I've been thinking about how awesome it would be to have a 5.0 for the higher torque motor. But I realized the lower-power 3.0 motor is great for me, and all I wish I had was the bigger battery capacity! This lower-power motor == comfortable, meaningful exercise. I keep telling my wife I'm in the best shape I've been in since I left basic and advanced training at Ft. Knox a few decades ago.

I've been doing a lot of noodling lately with assist levels. Realized rather quickly that being hyper-aware of assist, wH usage, power contribution et al really started to impact the enjoyment of every ride. So I said screw it: I'm now trying to keep a pace around 75rpm regardless of terrain, and adjusting assist as necessary. If I'm not around 75rpm when I look at the display, I couldn't care less (although I'm developing good memory of what 75rpm feels like).

I'd also been playing with the elastomers for the SQLab seat. I rode a few weeks with each elastomer and with no elastomer. I did find that the white (softest) elastomer or no elastomer resulted in some minor lower back discomfort post-ride. The gray (medium) and black (firmest) eliminate this, so I've stuck with the medium. Works perfect for me.

My daily ride has extended in time and distance. I have to keep an eye on the clock as a reminder to get home, otherwise I'd ride for 2-3 hours every day and I'd have an unhappy spouse.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I'm now trying to keep a pace around 75rpm regardless of terrain, and adjusting assist as necessary. If I'm not around 75rpm when I look at the display, I couldn't care less (although I'm developing good memory of what 75rpm feels like).

I would use the derailleur to maintain the cadence. It is what the derailleurs actually are for Manipulating the assistance to get constant cadence in a fixed gear is not the best of ideas!

Americans are used to drive automatic transmission cars and depend on the engine power. We Europeans mostly drive the manual transmission cars and are aware using excessive engine power in a wrong gear is a bad idea (that's why manual transmission cars are typically equipped with a tachometer, an equivalent of cadence meters on bikes).

Try to use your derailleur more effectively at a constant assistance level Joe!

 

[tomjasz]

Americans are

as usual FOS.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

(Some people have the proof they are competent in what they are saying).

But some only talk and stalk the competent users.

 

[AHicks]

I actually use my derailleur to maintain cadence as well. My speeds are generally in the 9-12mph range using PAS 1 (fairly level, paved or hard packed). If I wanted to go faster, or if I was not able to maintain my cadence while running in this 9-12 mph window (wind, hills), THEN I will temporarily increase my PAS level.

My goal, for miserly use of power and maximum miles per charge, is to keep the PAS level as low as possible while maintaining a speed that doesn't leave me bored.

 

[Avg_Joe]

I would use the derailleur to maintain the cadence. It is what the derailleurs actually are for Manipulating the assistance to get constant cadence in a fixed gear is not the best of ideas!

Americans are used to drive automatic transmission cars and depend on the engine power. We Europeans mostly drive the manual transmission cars and are aware using excessive engine power in a wrong gear is a bad idea (that's why manual transmission cars are typically equipped with a tachometer, an equivalent of cadence meters on bikes).

Try to use your derailleur more effectively at a constant assistance level Joe!

Believe me, I use the gears/derailleur the entire ride! (Apologies if I led you or anyone to believe otherwise.) It is essential to maintaining the pedal pace, that is something that even I as an ignorant American know. It's the assist level I rarely touch any longer: Eco 15/100 for ~95% of my rides, Sport on a couple of long grades, and use Turbo (and 1st gear!) on a single gnarly, short hill. So, I think I'm doing things right.

Gears 3-7 get the most use, I have a few stretches where I can comfortably use 8-9. 1st is used on the hill mentioned above; 2nd when I want to keep a jogger's pace ~8mph on the multi-use/dirt trails. Otherwise, Gears are my Friends and keep my pace where I want it, regardless of speed.

I rode my neighbor's single-speed analog bike to the end of our street, and brought it right back. Definitely not for me!

The battery comment is due to the tailing off of assist as battery gets run down. Yeah I come home and recharge it, so not really an issue at all.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Sorry for misreading you Joe! I thought you wanted to stay in a fixed gear and only adjust the assistance to maintain the constant cadence!

As I am a long distance rider, I stay at a fixed assistance level and actively work with the derailleur. Of course, shall I meet an incline, I increase the assistance (often to Turbo). Now, the assistance indeed drops when the battery goes below 20%, and it is even worse below 10%. As I carry a spare battery on long rides, I often switch to Turbo between 10 and 5% to squeeze the battery empty fast.

 

[Avg_Joe]

Sorry for misreading you Joe! I thought you wanted to stay in a fixed gear and only adjust the assistance to maintain the constant cadence!

As I am a long distance rider, I stay at a fixed assistance level and actively work with the derailleur. Of course, shall I meet an incline, I increase the assistance (often to Turbo). Now, the assistance indeed drops when the battery goes below 20%, and it is even worse below 10%. As I carry a spare battery on long rides, I often switch to Turbo between 10 and 5% to squeeze the battery empty fast.

It's all good! I sometimes jumble words/thoughts, just didn't want anyone to think I use assist instead of the gears. I'd be banished forever!

 

[Avg_Joe]

I've had the Vado since June, and as I approach 1000 miles thought I'd look at some stats. Keep in mind I am a casual rider: no commuting, just rides after work and on weekends.

My cadence and speed have been very consistent over this time span, not varying by more than 3rpm (cadence) and 1mph (avg speed). I do need to get my average cadence higher, though.

July was my lowest mileage month: Have I ever mentioned how much I hate summer in the SE US? October was highest, over 250mi.

My rider power has increased by over 20%! This is quite a shock - I expected some improvement, but I believe between (de)tuning the assist levels and just better fitness, I've made progress. This is also evident in wH usage per ride, which is also trending downward. As an added bonus, I just had bloodwork done for my annual physical and all of my numbers were good to excellent - in spite of my beer and chocolate habit.

On the troubles side: nothing of consequence! One motor blip on a nasty trail, one chain drop; I likely caused both of them (way too slow and hard on the blip, way too fast and rough on the drop). Everything else has been perfect.

Getting to be a parrot, but dang I love this bike and what it's done for my life!

 

[Avg_Joe]

Took a break from these forums since before Thanksgiving due to the nonsense of a few users, in the interim:

• Replaced my chain at 1,555 miles. I need to be better about shifting, it was stretched way out of spec and caused chain drops.
• Bought a 2020 Como ST for my wife w/ 90 mi on it. That bike is fun! but I'm not crazy about the position. However, she wanted upright... Happy wife!
• This weekend, I got myself an analog bike. Circa 2011 Specialized Sirrus Elite Disc Edition in excellent original condition, needed nothing, price was excellent.

I bought the Sirrus off a fellow suffering from neuropathy. He is the original owner, is my age (late 50's), but he can no longer walk and his hands are extremely limited. Said last time he rode it a few months back, he fell 3 times in grass, so he gave up. He was also a woodworker with many tools (hand and power), and in our short interaction - his disappointment was obvious. As I was leaving, I assured him the Sirrus would be cared for and ridden with respect, and he started crying. I lashed the bike onto my rack, sat in my car for a few moments to reflect and wiped away a tear...

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Replaced my chain at 1,555 miles. I need to be better about shifting, it was stretched way out of spec and caused chain drops.

I need to replace my chains at every 1,000 - 1,100 miles. Otherwise the small cogs of my cassettes wear out.

Congratulations on Sirrus! If you can still ride an unpowered bike it's great! Congrats to your wife for the Como, too!

 

[mschwett]

…a woodworker with many tools (hand and power), and in our short interaction - his disappointment was obvious. As I was leaving, I assured him the Sirrus would be cared for and ridden with respect, and he started crying. I lashed the bike onto my rack, sat in my car for a few moments to reflect and wiped away a tear...

a reminder that the piper comes, in a unique way every time, for each of us. enjoy doing what you can whenever you still can!!

 

[Avg_Joe]

The Sirrus may have caused an epiphany, or I could be totally wrong...

It is old but still rides great. The stem is very low and it extends out about 4" with almost-flat handlebars. In my zeal to make it more comfortable, I plopped an adjustable stem on it with the OEM handlebars from my Vado so I'd be (quite) a bit more upright. Rode it and felt as if I ruined it, it was such a chore to ride.

Last night while riding the Vado, ascending some hills, I latched on to the SQLabs Inner Bar Ends, tucked down, brought my arms in, and remembered - in that position, I really put more power into each revolution of the pedals. Then I did the same on some flat sections. When I got home and checked the ride, the power increase was obvious and substantial across the board; yet cadence remained the same, as did heart rate (yes I finally broke down and got a smart GPS watch). Same relative effort but more power!

So, a lower position is better for power (among other things) for me.

Today, I am reverting the Sirrus back to original stem and handlebars. After I do that, I am going to remove the riser Spank handlebar from my Vado and put the stock one back on and ride a few weeks that way. I have this strange feeling that while I subjectively made myself more comfortable - on both bikes - the real impact is riding is much harder the more upright I am. Guess those Specialized (and other brands') designers and engineers know wtf they are doing, and I don't (or it takes me forever to learn).